Coast KQ 1&2 Flashcards
(228 cards)
What is a spilling wave ?
Steep waves breaking onto gently sloping beaches
What is a plunging wave ?
Moderately steep waves breaking onto steep beaches
what is a surging wave ?
Low angle waves breaking onto steep beaches
What is a swell wave ?
Long wavelength , wave period up to 20 seconds .formed in ocean oceans
What is a storm wave ?
Locally generated
Shorter wavelength , greater height , shorter wave period
What is the equation for the amount of energy in a wave ?
P= h^2 t
What is a system ?
A set of interrelated objects comprising of components and processes that are connected together to form a working unit
What energy types are available to a coastal landscape system ?
Kinetic , potential and thermal
What is an open system ?
Energy and matter can be transferred from neighbouring systems as an input but also as an output
What are some examples of inputs of a coastal landscape ?
Kinetic energy from wind and waves
Thermal energy from heat of sun
Potential energy from the position of material on sloped
Material from marine deposition
What are some examples of outputs of a coastal landscape ?
Marine and wind erosion
Evaporation
What are some examples of processes in a coastal landscape system ?
Longshore drift
When could equilibrium occur in a coastal landscape ?
When the rate at which sediment is bing added to the beach equal the rate at which sediment is being removed from the beach
What is dynamic equilibrium ?
When equilibrium is disturbed , the system undergoes self regulation and changes its form in order to restore equilibrium
What is a sediment cell ?
Reaches of shoreline which encompass th enter tidal and nearshore movement of sediment
Why are sediment cells closed systems ?
No sediment is transferred from one cell to another
How many large sediment cells are there around the coast of England and wales ?
11
How are the boundries of sediment cells determined ?
By the topography and shape of the coastline
Why is it unlikely that sediment cells are completely closed ?
Because of variations in wind direction and the presence of tidal currents
What is a special impact ?
From place to place
What is a temporal impact ?
Over time
What is the source of energy for coastal erosion and sediment transport ?
Wave action
How is wave energy generated ?
By the frictional drag of winds moving across the oceans surface
What are onshore winds ?
Blow from the sea towards the land , very effective at driving waves towards the coast