Perm Theory

Question 1

1905
The first real breakthrough perm machine
Suitable for what length of hair?
Which wrapping method?

Answer 1

Charles Nessler

Suitable for longer hair
Spiral method of wrapping from scalp to ends

Used strong alkalis heated to 212F

Question 2

1920s
Which method of wrapping created
Accommodates what length of hair?

New clamp process also called:

Answer 2

Overlap method aka croquinole method
Developed for shorter hair

Clamp processes aka preheat or MACHINELESS METHOD

Question 3

1931 HEATLESS METHOD
Bisulfides used

1938 COLD WAVE
THIOGLYCOLIC acid or derivative
+ pH neutralizer used

Answer 3

1931: Ralph Evans and Everett McDonough introduced heatless technique.

USED BISUFIDES instead of electricity
Chemical reactions
——————————————————-

1938: Arnold Willatt invented the Cold Wave
NO MACHINES USED

Introduced THIOGLYCOLIC ACID or a derivitave and processed without heat

Introduced an acidic pH neutralizer to reform hair

Question 4

1970s ACID BUFFERED WAVES

Contains thio derivitave called:

Heat added by:
Also know as what heat method

Answer 4

Contains no ammonia

Glyceryl monothioglycolate

Heat added by placing cap on head and putting under heated dryer
Also known as ENDOthermic (absorbing heat from surroundings)

Question 5

Acid perms today are in pH range of

Answer 5

6.9 - 7.2

Question 6

Exothermic perms generate heat:

Answer 6

Through their own chemical reaction (no outside heat source needed)

Range from acid to alkaline

Question 7

Phases of perming

Answer 7

Physical
Chemical

(Both are equally important)

Question 8

Physical phase:

Chemical phase:
Two chemicals agents used

Answer 8

Wrapping phase

Chemical phase:

1. Perm solution aka REDUCING AGENT
   Also known as waving lotion or reforming lotion.
   Breaks disulfide bonds so hair can assume shape of perm rod

2.Neutralizer aka OXIDIZING AGENT
Applied after rinsing, to reharden hair in shape of perm rod.