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Flashcards in Test 2 Deck (84):
1

plucking

removing hair to extend the forehead

2

what is pictured in slide 1

elaborate bourrebets, stuffed or padded hairstyles

3

slashing

practice of cutting slits in the garment and pulling linen through

4

forerunner of the corset in the renaissance

tightly laced cote, linen under bodice made from two layers of fabric stiffened by glue (stays/pair of bodies)

5

kirtle

bodice attached to a skirt

6

fur used by both men and women in renaissance

lynx, wolf, sable

7

necklines in renaissance

low and square with top of the chemise visible

8

how are chemises worn in the renaissance

visible above clothing, threaded with a string and drawn tight

9

main male garment in renaissance

doublet

10

how was the doublet worn in the renaissance

opened in the front to show the cod piece, sleeves got wider and had slashing

11

points

laces threaded through eyelet holes in breeches and stockings and tied together; lipped with aiglets

12

when were hats worn in the renaissance and what style were they

worn indoors and out, usually a soft, low bonnet with a brim, with the brim flipped up and held in place by a jewel (see slide 2)

13

were clothes in the 16th century colored, and what was the most popular

brightly colored, red

14

what was the spanish mode of fashion (latter half 16th c)

tight fitting somber, black

15

bombast

stuffing used in doublets and hose to swell them out, eliminates folds and crises, used rags, horsehair, cotton, bran

16

what was the effect of bombasting

made the waist look even smaller

17

what allowed leg coverings to fit the leg more neatly than before

knitting

18

ruff

collar made of pleated fabric and stiffened to help it stand out from the neck

19

what is pictured in slide 3

copotain- high conical crown hat

20

palisadoe

wire support for hair--hair was braided behind the head, and fluffed out at the temples with a center part

21

who set the trend for dying hair in the renaissance and to what color

Queen Elizabeth, red

22

what was used to swell out women's skirts in the renaissance

farthingales

23

what did women use to show their shape instead of padding (16th c)

stomachers, held in place with wood

24

what's pictured in slide 4

farthingale

25

what's pictured in slide 5

italian farthingale-- slightly tilted up at the back by a cushion

26

what's pictured in slide 6

bum rolls or roll farthingales, used outside of court circles

27

what was the most popular color for stockings at the end of the 16th century

yellow

28

canions

breeches worn underneath trunk hose reaching the knee

29

galligaskins

baggy breaches fastening below the knee

30

what happened to ruffs at the end of the 16th century?

they got bigger in the Netherlands but smaller in England and France

31

what's pictured in slide 7

rebato

32

the time of Louis XIII was dominated by what style

Three Muskateers in France and Cavaliers in England

33

what did men's 3 musketeers clothes consist of

breeches, doublet, short cloak hanging from one shoulder, wide brimmed hat with a plume

34

funnel boots

boot with wide turnovers at top, sometimes trimmed in lace

35

what were men's shoes decorated with in the 17th century

rosettes, ribbons, and spangles

36

what happened to women's stiff ruffs in the 1630s

they became a falling collar (pictured in slide 8)

37

what did women's dress consist of beginning 17th century

bodice, petticoat, and gown

38

decollete

lacing in front with silk ribbon and stiffened with a piece or plastron

39

what is pictured in slide 9

chopines--wooden clogs worn during the rain covered with leather, sometimes with soles so thick they qualify as stilts

40

how was women's hair worn in the 17th century

flat and frizzed out at the sides

41

what is pictured in slide 10

fichu: linnen handkerchief or collar

42

what did the puritans wear

conservative cuts and black; dutch kept a large ruff, english didn't

43

patches

spotting the face to achieve a mole appearance

44

what's pictured in slide 11

petticoat breeches/reingraves: full loose breaches decorated with loops of ribbons on the waist around the knee

45

what was the fashion of the 1660s

fantastic/studied negligence

46

women's appearance in studied negligence

loose and careless, as though caught in negligee

47

manteau

tucked skirt, more formal in appearance, gave a narrow, stiffer look

48

what is pictured in slide 12

palatine- kerchief worn outdoors to cover a woman's bare shoulders "bertha"

49

waistcoats

doublets that became a closed coat reaching the calf

50

surcoat

cut at breast and hanging loose

51

breeches in 1670s

spanish cut, made in same color as vest/other garments

52

what's pictured in slide 13

cravat made of lace or muslin
point de france--more extravagant
point de venice--even more extravagant

53

what's pictured in slide 14

periwig--full bottomed wig worn by men, large and heavy

54

fontage

hair tied with ribbon and bow at the front

55

what happened to the fontage

became more elaborate, added cap with lace and wire frame
commode "convenient" or "tower"

56

cavalier hat

wide brimmed hat with tall cap

57

when were gentlemen bareheaded (end of 17th century)

in the presence of royalty

58

cocking

one side of a hat turned up

59

"monmouth cock"

hat turned up in three places

60

who dominated fashion at the top of the 18th century

France

61

what is pictured in slide 15

ramillies wig

62

did women wear wigs?

no, but they often added hairpieces to achieve the same fullness

63

what is pictured in slide 16

sack--comfortable, shapeless garment with small box pleats

64

what are watteau pleats

pleats that doubled or tripled below the neck and merged below the shoulders

65

what is pictured in slide 17

panniers: basket, gave women shape at the hips, usually made of whale bone or willow twigs, could extend to up to 15 ft

66

what is pictured in slide 18

robe de la francaise: fitted front with a full pleated cut at the back (watteau back)

67

what is pictured in slide 19

robe a la anglaise: close fit in front and back

68

engageants

ruff attached to the sleeve or the result of lace attached to the end of the chemise

69

what did men wear in the 18th century

coat, waistcoat, and breeches

70

knee breeches

worn by men, fairly loose and fitted over the hips, closed under the knee with buttons and stockings worn underneath

71

what is pictured in slide 20

tricorne hat

72

by the 1760s clothes became more...

simple
less french court, more english country

73

what is pictured in slide 21

polonaise: overskirt gathered by loops of taped rings sewn to the inside of the skirt

74

what is pictured in slide 22

chemise a la reine: white muslin gown with a waistline and soft full skirt

75

what happened to women's hair in the 1760s

reached towering heights with the help of cushions and wire frames

76

what were fashion plates/dolls

depictions of current fashions used to show wealthier women what the trends were

77

what is pictured in slide 23

phrygian cap: red hat that was a symbol of support for the french revolution

78

what replaced the tricorne hat for english men

top hat "topper"

79

what did men wear in the directoire period

hunting coat with extravagant tails, short waistline, high collars with voluminous necklines

80

men who wore directoire fashion were called what

incroyables

81

what did women wear in the directoire period

robe en chemise: white, high waisted garment falling to the floor, sometimes see-through, white or pink stockings

82

ridicule/reticule

little handbag worn by women in the directoire period

83

women who wore directoire fashion were called what

merveilleuse

84

ditto suit

a suit with the coat, vest, and pants fabric all matching