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costume > Test 3 > Flashcards

Test 3 Flashcards

1
Q

what was the fashion of the directore period for women?

A

they wore next to nothing compared to other periods, very thin dresses with high waistline;
modest women still wore chemises and corsets overtop

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2
Q

what were the corsets of the director period like?

A

long, without a waistline, pushed breasts up and out

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3
Q

what is pictured in slide 1

A

drawers: worn by women made of cotton or linen, a basic part of women’s fashion, new to England and America

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4
Q

what marked a lady as fashionable in the director period?

A

shawls made of cashmere

imported from India against consent of Napoleon

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5
Q

what happened to women’s fashion between France and England from 1814-1826?
what did women in France and England wear?

A

the countries were cut off from each other and their fashion noticeably diverged
French women: white skirt, flared at hem with flounce
English women: looks ‘romantic’ with puffed sleeves and slashes

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6
Q

what happened to men’s fashion between 1814-1826? What did they wear?

A

Frenchmen accepted English dress as law, due to superior skill of London tailors
snug fitting coat, no wrinkles, cut away in front reminiscent of a hunting coat
waistcoat and breeches two different colors
collars high at back of neck

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7
Q

what is broadcloth and what was it used for?

A

plain woven wool that can be stretched and fitted to the body
used in mens coats

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8
Q

what is a dandy?

A

a man unduly devoted to style, neatness and fashion in dress and appearance

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9
Q

describe waistcoats of the directore period

A

short and square cut, sometimes showing a few inches between them and pants, upper buttons left undone to display shirt frill

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10
Q

describe the types of men’s pants in the directoire period and when they were worn

A

daytime: tight fitting breeches in riding boots
evening: silk stockings with pumps
sometimes- trousers, close fitting and ending at ankle

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11
Q

what is pictured in slide 2

A

spencer: short jacket worn by men and women

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12
Q

how did men wear their shirt collars in the directoire period

A

upright with the points projecting onto the cheek, kept in place by a cravat

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13
Q

cravat

A

large squares of muslin, lawn, or silk

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14
Q

when were hats worn by men in the directoire period

A

top hats all through the day

bicorne in the evening

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15
Q

what hairstyle is pictured in slide 3

A

a la victime: reference to the short haircuts given to victims of the french revolution

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16
Q

what hairstyle is pictured in slide 4

A

a la titus: short and disheveled, depicted on the statues of roman men

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17
Q

describe men’s facial hair in the directoire period

A

military men wore mustaches

civilians were clean shaven, sometimes with side whiskers

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18
Q

a well dressed man was never seen without what?

A

a cane

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19
Q

what happened to dandy’s clothes in 1819?

A

developed all kinds of extravagances including
top hat swelled out so crown was wider than brim (mad hatter), shirt collars came up to the eye, cravats grew tighter, shoulders padded and waist in corset

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20
Q

what is pictured in slide 5

A

pelisse: like a modern coat, generously full and followed empire silhouette

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21
Q

did women wear shawls in the 1820s?

A

yes, but they were less fashionable

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22
Q

what happened to women’s waistlines in the 1820s?

A

the moved to the proper waist

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23
Q

who wore corsets in the 1820s?

A

all women, even small girls

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24
Q

describe women’s fashion of the late 1820s (romantic period)

A

leg of mutton sleeves with puffed sheer sleeves overtop, skirts became shorter and wider, evening décolleté was straight edge across the bust
in the day they wore a ruff
reticules carried, wore muff, carried fans or parasols

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25
Q

describe women’s hats in the romantic period

A

wide brimmed, made of straw, silk, satin, trimmed with ribbons and feathers

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26
Q

describe women’s hair in romantic period

A

elaborately arranged curls over forehead with chignon at back

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27
Q

what happened to the shape of women’s dresses in 1840

A

waists were low with lines of decoration on bodice exaggerating this, sleeves were tight with bulge of fabric over the lower arm
skirts were longer with same width
bodice in skirt fastened together with hook and eye

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28
Q

what is pictured in slide 6

A

jacket bodice: close fitting and buttoned down the front

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29
Q

what is pictured in slide 7

A

crinoline: small bustle made of horsehair

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30
Q

how were skirts adorned in the 1840s

A

with flounces, ruching, and other decoration

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31
Q

in the 1840s and 50s women’s clothing tried to make them look _______, more like ________. How did they achieve this?

A

smaller, Queen Victoria

shoes without heels

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32
Q

what happened to the deccolete in the 1850s

A

off the shoulder

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33
Q

what is pictured in slide 8

A

encoeur: dip in the middle, horizontal across the top of corsage, typical of the period

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34
Q

what is pictured in slide 9

A

chatelaines- ornamental chains worn at the waist from which were suspended useful items such as scissors, thimbles, penknives

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35
Q

souffrante

A

rude health: it was fashionable to appear in poor health

no rouge, underlies paled

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36
Q

how were women kept in active in the 1850s

A

many petticoats to weigh women down and prevent activity

37
Q

what happened to men’s fashion in the 1850s

A

became more somber, with no exaggeration

cut away coats in the day and evening (black)

38
Q

what is pictured in slide 10

A

frock coat: worn by men in the daytime
cut looser and and short than dresscoats
turned down flat collars

39
Q

what hat did all men wear in 1850s

A

top hat

40
Q

what kind of hat is the man wearing in slide 11

A

wide awake hat: low crowned informal hat

41
Q

how were trousers worn in the 1850s

A

tight and strapped under the instep

42
Q

differences between trousers and pantaloons in 1850s

A

pantaloons were tighter

43
Q

what happened to women’s skirts in the crinoline period

A

expanded, at first with lots of petticoats, then with a cage crinoline
waists were tight with fitted bodices

44
Q

what is a crenoline

A

flexible steel hoops hung by tapes from the waist or seen into a petticoat

45
Q

what did females wear under their skirts

A

women and little girls wore long linen pantaloons edged in lace, sometimes reaching the ankle
people that couldn’t afford them wore pantalettes

46
Q

pantaloons

A

tubes of white linen covered in lace ruffles, often reaching the ankle

47
Q

pantalettes

A

tubes of white linen ending just above the knee

48
Q

what happened to the crinoline by the end of the 1850s

A

it got even bigger and exaggerated so that two women couldn’t sit on the same sofa together or enter a room at the same time

49
Q

who was Mrs. Bloomer

A

went to England in 1851 to push her sensible costume: simplified bodice with skirt reaching the knee, baggy trousers with lace frill

50
Q

what was the trouser complex

A

women trying to wear trousers caused Victorian men to see it as an outrage and women trying to usurp men’s position

51
Q

who helped to bring about haute couture and how

A

Empress Euginie of Spain wore the crinoline proudly

52
Q

who was Worth

A

the first fashion designer, became the dictator of fashion in Paris. All rich ladies came to him to get their dresses made

53
Q

what did women wear in the victorian age to cover themselves outside

A

shawls or mantalettes

54
Q

what two inventions in the 1870s brought about a major change in fashion

A

the sewing machine and aniline (synthetic) dyes

55
Q

who invented the sewing machine

A

Isaac Singer

56
Q

how did sewing machines become popular and why weren’t they originally?

A

they were too expensive

the civil war made them practical

57
Q

what else came about in fashion because of the civil war

A

standardized sizes that allowed for ready made clothing

58
Q

who was William Henry Perkin

A

the man who discovered mauveine and produced the first synthetic dye in 1856

59
Q

when was the first bustle period

A

1870-1878

60
Q

how did women wear their hair in the first bustle period and how did they achieve the look

A

mass of curls or braids at the back of the head that resembled their bustle
they used hair extensions “scalpettes” or “frizzuttes”

61
Q

what were the two types of dress cuts in the first bustle period

A

all in one (princess cut) or separation between bodice and skirt

62
Q

what is pictured in slide 12

A

jacket bodice: made with short or long basques forming an overskirt

63
Q

what type of bodice is pictured in slide 13

A

cuirasse bodice: very tight and molded to the hips with a plastron of different material down the front

64
Q

describe the corsets worn during the first bustle period and how did women get relief

A

long and very tight

they would wear a blouse instead of a corset at home

65
Q

when was the second bustle period?

A

1878- 1883

66
Q

how did dresses change in the second bustle period

A

the bunched up bustle has moved to the butt/low on the hips
all dresses had trains
asymmetry was popular
waist was incredibly tight in corset
skirt had an apron drape across the front to make the waist look even smaller

67
Q

when was the third bustle period

A

1883-1890

68
Q

how did dresses change in the third bustle period

A

bustle came back, sticks out horizontally from the back creating a large shelf

69
Q

what is a langtry bustle

A

arrangement of metal bands on a pivot that could be raised when sitting down and sprang back up when standing

70
Q

what did men wear during the bustle period

A

the frock coat for town wear or the morning coat

71
Q

what’s pictured in slide 14

A

frock coat

72
Q

what’s pictured in slide 15

A

morning coat

73
Q

what did young men wear, especially at oxford and cambridge

A

short jacket or double breasted “reefer”

74
Q

what is pictured in slide 16

A

norfolk jacket: used for shooting

75
Q

what is pictured in slide 17

A

Homberg, worn with norfolk jacket

76
Q

what did men wear in the evening during the bustle period

A

cut away coat with embellished silk black facings

tail coat still used for formal functions

77
Q

what is pictured in slide 18

A

smoking jacket, worn after the ladies retired

78
Q

what happened to men’s fashion between 1880-1890

A

increase in informal wear

it was caddish to wear anything but a frock coat or morning coat in day to day life

79
Q

what are lounge suits/sack suits

A

loose fitting jackets with no waistline

80
Q

who was Mrs. Langtry

A

tennis player, Jersey Lily, who wore a knitted fabric when playing tennis
where we get jersey fabric from

81
Q

what did women wear when playing sports

A

baggy knickerbockers “bloomers”

82
Q

what was the rational dress movement

A

started in 1881, concerned with the unhealthiness of of the increasingly tight corsets and the unnecessary layers

83
Q

who were the pre-raphaelites

A

women who followed the lines of fashion but wore dresses that were looser with full sleeves and no corsets, heelless shows and less formal hair

84
Q

what was men’s dress in the rational dress movement

A

knee breeches, velvet jackets, flowing tie, and wide awake hat

85
Q

how did dresses change in 1890s

A

bustle and apron drape disappeared
dresses fit smoothly and snugly over the hip
skirts were long and bell shaped with a train

86
Q

what material was very fashionable in the 1890s

A

lace

87
Q

what happened to sleeves in the 1890s

A

they became huge, required large cushions to keep them standing

88
Q

what was the new vogue for women at the end of the 19th century

A

tailored suite consisting of a jacket, skirt, and shirtwaist

women wore men’s hats and stiff white collars

costume (2 decks)

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