Waves

Question 1

What is the main cause of waves in coastal areas?

Answer 1

Waves are primarily caused by the wind blowing over the surface of the water.

Question 2

True or False: Larger waves are typically generated by stronger winds.

Answer 2

True

Question 3

What term describes the distance between two consecutive wave crests?

Answer 3

Wavelength

Question 4

What are the two main types of waves that affect coastlines?

Answer 4

Destructive waves and constructive waves.

Question 5

Which type of wave is characterised by a strong backwash and weak swash?

Answer 5

Destructive waves

Question 6

What is the primary impact of constructive waves on the coastline?

Answer 6

They build up beaches by depositing sand.

Question 7

True or False: Destructive waves erode the coastline.

Answer 7

True

Question 8

What is the relationship between wave energy and wave height?

Answer 8

Higher waves generally have more energy.

Question 9

Fill in the blank: _____ refers to the movement of water towards the shore.

Answer 9

Swash

Question 10

What is the term for the movement of water away from the shore?

Answer 10

Backwash

Question 11

What is wave frequency?

Answer 11

The number of waves that pass a fixed point in a given time period.

Question 12

What effect do longshore currents have on sediment transport?

Answer 12

They move sediment along the coast.

Question 13

What is the primary role of waves in coastal erosion?

Answer 13

Waves erode rocks and sediments, reshaping the coastline.

Question 14

What is the term for the gradual process of wave action shaping the coastline?

Answer 14

Coastal erosion

Question 15

True or False: Wave refraction can concentrate wave energy on certain parts of the coastline.

Answer 15

True

Question 16

What is the effect of wave energy on coastal landforms?

Answer 16

Wave energy can create features such as cliffs, beaches, and sand dunes.

Question 17

Fill in the blank: The _____ is the point where a wave breaks.

Answer 17

shoreline

Question 18

What is a key characteristic of storm waves compared to regular waves?

Answer 18

Storm waves are typically larger and more powerful.

Question 19

What is the result of wave action?

Answer 19

Erosion and sediment deposition

Question 20

What is the process of waves breaking on the shore called?

Answer 20

Wave breaking

Question 21

True or False: The angle at which waves approach the shore can affect erosion patterns.

Answer 21

True

Question 22

Fill in the blank: _____ waves have a gentle slope and are good for surfing.

Answer 22

Constructive

Question 23

What is the definition of ‘fetch’?

Answer 23

Fetch is the distance over water that the wind blows in a single direction.

Question 24

True or False: The greater the fetch, the larger the waves can become.

Answer 24

True

Question 25

What is the primary factor that causes waves in the ocean?

Answer 25

Waves in the ocean are primarily caused by wind

Question 26

Fill in the blank: The prevailing wind is the wind that blows predominantly from a ________ direction in a particular region.

Answer 26

single

Question 27

Multiple Choice: Which of the following factors does NOT influence wave height? A) Wind speed B) Fetch C) Water temperature D) Duration of wind

Answer 27

C) Water temperature