Exam 3 Flashcards
What is happening in South Carolina? (Edisto Beach area)
“Hammock” island (sand island in front of main barrier island)
Sand from the offshore overtaking soils - due to sea level rise
Dead trees in the sand - why? saltwater, eroding & unhealthy soils from sand encroachment
Sea level rise x increased storm surge activity
Waves x time
(The landscapes along a coast are very sensitive to multiple geological processes, rapidly)
Coastal Geomorphology (ALL of the factors that will affect any coastline)
Coastal morphology (shape and form) is controlled by many processes…
1. Sediment input from rivers (e.g. deltas)
2. Erosional processes (e.g. waves and sometimes tides)
3. Transport processes (e.g. waves, longshore currents, tides)
4. Pre-existing shoreline topography (e.g. continental shelf, submarine canyons).
5. Relative sea level change (e.g. tectonics (active vs. passive), isostasy, climate)
6. Human activity (e.g. jetties, groins, sea walls, fabrics, etc.)
Primary Coastal Processes That Influence Coastal Morphology
Rivers
Waves
Tides
Relative sea level change
Sediment Routing System
“a highway of sediment” how it moves in the landscape
Sediment supply to the coast primarily comes from river input.
Sediment emerges at discrete points along coastlines, sometimes forming protruding deltas.
(collecting land and sediment and funneling it into the river)
Delta
a fan-shaped feature formed by clastic sediments that build into standing water
Deltas are produced where river flow decelerates as it enters a body of water. The deceleration results in rapid deposition and the construction of a sedimentary fan.
(named after Nile River Delta)
Characteristic Fan Shape? - of a delta
Avulsion
Mouth bar
Creates distributary channel morphology and classic delta shape (Δ)
(deposits a broader fan of sediment)
Avulsion
channel switching caused by intra-channel deposition
Mouth bar (middle ground bar)
An intra-channel sediment bar that forms when a channel reaches its base level (due to flow deceleration)
Distributary Morphology/pattern
large river branches out into smaller rivers (this only occurs at the mouth of a river)
How waves are generated & measured
Waves are generated by friction between water and wind
We measure waves by their amplitude (height), wavelength (crest to crest distance), and frequency (how many waves pass a single point over time)
Factors that influence wave size/energy…
(1) duration of wind event
(2) velocity of wind
(3) fetch (distance that the wind blows across the surface)
Wave Types
Oscillating
Translational
Oscillating waves
waves that move in circular orbitals (deeper sea)
Translational waves
waves that interact with the seabed
(translate = to move horizontally, in this case towards the coast)
As waves approach shore, the wave base hits the seabed, what happens here?
(translational wave action)
- Friction slows wave motion near the sea floor
- Near the surface, waves continue moving fast
- The wave over-steepens and crashes onto the beach
- The wave energy also runs out of space, so the waves grow taller
Backwash
the current that pulls the water back to sea, this is entirely related to gravity & seaward transport
(The beach is a slope that gets deeper as you move out to sea. Gravity will pull some of the finer particles back out to the ocean.)
Swash
driven by translational wave energy which pushes sand up on the beach, shoreward & wave driven transport
(The coarser sand (or larger particles) gets left behind by this process)
Foreshore =
Beach face
Dunes are…
stabilized by vegetation
Waves as an Erosive Agent
Wave action can erode loose sand and erode bedrock cliffs (more on this later). Sediment may get transported away from beach.
Longshore Current
current that flows parallel to coastline
oblique attack angle of waves leads to a longshore current