3.2.1 Coastal Processes Flashcards
What is the coast defined as?
The meeting point between land and sea
What are the two main categories of coastal processes?
Marine processes (offshore/water-based) and Terrestrial processes (onshore/land-based)
What are the five sub-processes involved in coastal processes?
Wave action, erosion, transportation, weathering, mass movement
What are the three factors that determine the height and strength of a wave?
The fetch, the amount of time the wind blows, the strength of the wind
What is the movement of water up the beach called?
Swash
What is the return movement of water down the beach called?
Backwash
What are the two types of waves?
Destructive waves (erode the beach) and Constructive waves (build up the beach)
What is weathering defined as?
The break-down of rock in-situ
What is the difference between weathering and erosion?
Weathering does not involve the movement of material, while erosion does.
What are the three types of weathering?
Mechanical, chemical, and biological weathering
What is mass movement?
The downhill movement of material under the influence of gravity
What are the four main types of erosion by waves?
Hydraulic action, attrition, abrasion, corrosion
What is the main process of deposition and transportation along the coast?
Longshore drift
How does longshore drift transport material?
In a zig-zag motion, with swash carrying material up the beach at an angle and backwash carrying it back down at 90 degrees.
When does deposition occur?
When the velocity/speed of water flow slows down and can no longer hold/suspend the material.