Coastal Landscapes and Processes Flashcards

1
Q

The coastline is where…

A

land meets the sea

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2
Q

Coastal erosion involves the action of..

A

waves wearing away the rocks along the coastline and removing the coastal sediments

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3
Q

What are the four main processes of coastal erosion?

A
  1. hydraulic action
  2. abrasion
  3. solution
  4. attrition
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4
Q

hydraulic action

A

when waves crash against the cliff, the impact, force and weight of the water against the rocks wears away the rocks

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5
Q

What does hydraulic action also do to joints and faults in the rock

A

compresses air into the joints and faults, causing pressure to build and loose rocks to be dislodged

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6
Q

As the waves retreat in hydraulic action, what happens to the rock

A

the compressed air is released, often explosively, causing the rock to weaken further

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7
Q

Abrasion

A

fragments of rock, pebbles and sand are picked up by the waves and thrown against the cliff face, causing pieces of rock to break off

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8
Q

Solution

A

chemical action on rocks by seawater.

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9
Q

What is solution most effective on?

A

limestone rocks, in which calcium is dissolved and carried away in solution

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10
Q

Attrition

A

rock fragments and pebbles carried by the waves are reduced in side as they collide against each other and the cliff face

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11
Q

During attrition, the rocks are eventually broken down eventually into…

A

sand-sized particles, which are more easily transported by waves

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12
Q

What is weathering

A

the break down of rocks at or near to the surface of the ground

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13
Q

What are the three key weathering processes?

A
  1. mechanical (freeze thaw)
  2. chemical (acid rain)
  3. biological
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14
Q

Mechanical / freeze-thaw

A
  • repeated freezing + thawing of water in a crack or hole in a the rock
  • water expands by 10 % when frozen -> stresses within the rock
  • ice melts, water seeps deeper into the rock along the deepened crack
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15
Q

chemical weathering

A

rainwater-slightly acidic

-when rain falls on rocks such as limestone and chalk, a weak chemical reaction takes place

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16
Q

Biological weathering

A

the roots of growing plants can widen cracks in rocks + burrowing animals and nesting birds on cliff faces

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17
Q

What is mass movement

A

the down slope movement of rocks and soil from the cliff top under the influence of gravity

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18
Q

What are rock falls?

A

when pieces of rock from a weathered cliff fall

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19
Q

When does rock falls occur?

A

as the rock at the base of the cliff has been undercut by the actions of the waves, leaving the rock above unsupported and causing it to collapse

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20
Q

When does slumping often occur?

A

after long periods of rainfall

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21
Q

What happens in slumping

A

The rain seeps through permeable rocks such as sandstone

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22
Q

At the junction where the permeable rock meets an impermeable rock such as clay, how does slumping happen?

A

the saturated soil and weaker rock slumps and slides in a rotational manner along a curved surface

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23
Q

How is sliding different to slumping?

A

the movement of material occurs along a flat surface; usually a bedding plane

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24
Q

In sliding, large amounts of…

A

soil and rock move down slope rapidly and can cause a lot of damage

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25
Q

What are the three types of mass movement?

A

rock falls
slumping
sliding

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26
Q

What are the four types of transportation

A

traction
saltation
suspension
solution

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27
Q

what is longshore drift?

A

the transport of sand and pebbles along the coast by waves

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28
Q

What is traction

A

large boulders are rolled along the seabed by waves

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29
Q

What is saltation

A

small boulders are bounced

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30
Q

What is suspension?

A

sand grains are carried

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31
Q

What is solution

A

carries dissolved lime from limestone and chalk rocks

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32
Q

When does deposition occur?

A

when there is not enough energy to carry the eroded materials any further

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33
Q

How are waves generated?

A

wind blowing over the sea

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34
Q

What does the friction with the wind and the surface of the water cause?

A

ripples to form, which grow into waves

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35
Q

Height and energy of waves are determined by..

A
  1. wind and strength
  2. wind duration
  3. fetch
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36
Q

What is fetch?

A

the distance of open water over which the wind has been blowing

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37
Q

How does a longer fetch affect the power of the wave?

A

the more powerful wave

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38
Q

What is wind duration?

A

the length of time the wind has been blowing

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39
Q

The stronger the wind…

A

the greater the friction on the surface of the sea- the bigger the wave

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40
Q

As a wave approaches the shore, what happens to the base of the wave?

A

slowed by friction with the sea bed, but the upper part continues to travel forward

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41
Q

The water that surges up the beach until it runs out of energy is called what?

A

swash

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42
Q

The water that then runs back down the beach under gravity is called what?

A

backwash

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43
Q

What are the two types of wave that move towards the coast?

A

destructive waves and constructive waves

44
Q

How are destructive waves formed?

A

by strong winds that have blown over large fetch areas

45
Q

What are the features of destructive waves

A

tall and steep

closely spaced and break frequently

46
Q

In destructive waves, the _____ is much stronger than the ____

A

backwash

swash

47
Q

Having a stronger backwash means that…

A

rocks, pebbles and sand are carried back out to sea

48
Q

When beaches form due to destructive waves, what are their characteristics?

A

they tend to be narrower and steep and offer cliffs little in the way of protection as they cannot absorb much of the wave energy

49
Q

How are constructive waves formed?

A

light winds

50
Q

What are the features of constructive waves?

A
  • less energy + encourages deposition

- low in height + widely spaced, breaking gently

51
Q

In constructive waves, the ___ is stronger than the _____

A

i) swash

ii) backswash

52
Q

Having a stronger swash means…

A

that more material is carried up the beach than is removed

53
Q

When beaches form due to constructive waves, what are their characteristics?

A
  • wide and shallow

- help to protect the cliffs from erosion as the wave energy is absorbed by the beach

54
Q

In discordant coasts, the bands of resistant and less resistant rocks run at what angle to the coastline?

A

right angles

55
Q

In concordant coasts, the bands of resistant and less resistant rocks run at what angle to the coastline?

A

parallel

56
Q

How are bays formed?

A

softer rocks erodes at a faster pace and therefore retreats inland

57
Q

How are headlands formed?

A

harder rock erodes at a slower pace and therefore sticks out to sea

58
Q

Headlands and bays are formed on discordant or concordant coastlines?

A

discordant

59
Q

What is a wave cut notch

A

when waves attack the base of the cliff, cutting out a notch. As this continues the cliff becomes undercut and the unsupported cliff above will collapse

60
Q

How are wave cut platforms formed?

A

As cliffs retreat, the waves leave a gently sloping rocky area. This is covered at high tide but visible at low tide

61
Q

How are caves created?

A

lines of weakness increase in size due to erosion and weathering

62
Q

How is an arch formed?

A

When there are 2 caves back into each other in a headland

63
Q

How is a stack formed?

A

Gravity causes the roof of the arch to collapse

64
Q

How is a stump formed?

A

stacks are attacked by erosion and collapse

65
Q

What happens after a stump is formed?

A

stumps are attacked by erosion and eventually erode below sea level

66
Q

How is sediment moved along the coast?

A

-Longshore drift moves sediment along the coastline

67
Q

What is longshore drift?

A
  • A prevailing wind hits the shore at a 45 degree angle and waves (swash) follow this angle taking the sediment with it.
  • Waves move back out to sea at 90 degree angle due to gravity )backwash taking sediment with it.
  • zig zag motion along the coastline
68
Q

What is swash

A

When a wave breaks, water is washed up the beach.

69
Q

What is backswash

A

When water runs back down the beach

70
Q

How is a sand spit formed

A

The process of longshore drift transports sediment along the coast until there is a change in direction of land.

  • Here the sand is deposited, leaving a ridge (spit)
  • when winds change direction so too does the shape of the spit, often curving
71
Q

How is a bar formed

A

The process of lsd transports sediment along the coast until there is a bay or river mouth. Sand is deposited leaving a ridge (the same as a spit) but this time it cuts off the bay/mouth trapping fresh water behind it

72
Q

What are the causes of rising sea levels?

A
  • global warming
    • temps increase ice sheets melting - adding water to oceans
  • thermal expansion
    • temps rising, causing further increases in sea level rise
73
Q

What are the effects of rising sea levels?

A
  1. Cliffs- are undercut and collapsing
    - will continue to retrate a faster rate-> position of wave cut notch and platform changing
  2. Areas of softer, less resistant rock will experience faster rates of erosion and coastal retreat
74
Q

What are the causes of storms and storm surges?

A
  • low pressure weather systems and gale force winds

- combination forces water upwards and inland causing damage

75
Q

What are storms or storm surges?

A

large-scale increase in sea levels in hours or days

76
Q

What are the effects of storms and storm surges?

A

-As sea levels rush inland, flood defenses can be overwhelmed causing death, damage to buildings and land flooded

77
Q

Human causes of coastal erosion?

A
  1. building coastal defences e.g. groynes
  2. Dredging
  3. Protection of sea cliffs
78
Q

What do groynes do?

A

trap sand in one area but causes further erosion along the coastline

79
Q

What does dredging do?

A

removes sand from the sea bed and can be used for building however causes further erosion soon afterwards

80
Q

How may protecting sea cliffs cause erosion?

A

recurved sea wall reduces sediment into the system and causes further erosion along the coastline

81
Q

What are the human effects of coastal erosion?

A
  • settlements
  • tourism
  • agriculture
  • infrastructure
82
Q

Explain how erosion affect settlements

A

over 200 million people live on the coastline with many settlements being lost in recent years

83
Q

Explain how erosion affect tourism

A

huge role in local economies, if areas are lost, the impact would be negative for locals

84
Q

Explain how erosion affect agriculture

A

sea level rise is causing huge areas of farmland to be lost leading to financial lost

85
Q

Explain how erosion affect infrastructure

A

roads, railways, ports and oil refineries are located at the coast. Losses here could cause major problems

86
Q

What are the Shoreline Management Plans (SMP)?

A

Areas of the coast are split into seconds to make the management of the areas easier. Areas can choose to put in one of four policies.

87
Q

What are the policies of SMP?

A
  1. No intervention
  2. Hold the line
  3. Managed Realignment
  4. Advance the line
88
Q

what is meant by no intervention

A

allowing nature to take its course

89
Q

What is meant by holding the line?

A

maintaining existing coast by building coastal defences

90
Q

what is meant by managed realignment

A

allow nature to take its course but direct the process

91
Q

What is meant by advance the line

A

build new defences

92
Q

What is soft engineering?

A

using natural materials to protect the coastline or allowing nature to take its course

93
Q

Give two examples of soft engineering for coastal management

A

Beach replenishment and sand dune regeneration

94
Q

What is beach replenishment?

A

adding sand or shingle to the beach, usually through dredging

95
Q

What is sand dune regeneration?

A

grasses, bushes and trees planted to stabilise the dunes

96
Q

Adv of beach replenishment?

A
  • attracts tourism

- absorbs more wave energy

97
Q

dis adv of beach replenishment?

A

expensive to maintain

-summer work affects tourism

98
Q

Adv of sand dune regeneration

A
  • cheap

- creates habitats

99
Q

Disadv of sand dune regeneration?

A
  • vegetation takes time to grow

- access to dunes are limited

100
Q

What is hard engineering?

A

Using man-made structures (usually concrete) to protect the coastline

101
Q

What are two examples of hard engineering for coastal management

A
  1. sea wall

2. groynes

102
Q

What are sea walls?

A

concrete wall built at the foot of cliffs to reflect the waves back out to sea

103
Q

Adv of sea wall?

A

effective at stopping sea

-includes a promenade

104
Q

Disadv. of sea wall?

A

very expensive

-unsightly

105
Q

What are groynes?

A

wooden or rock structures built out to sea to trap sand from longshore drift

106
Q

What are the adv of groynes

A
  • quick construction

- bigger beach=tourism inc.

107
Q

disadv of groynes?

A

unsightly

-causes erosion down the coast