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Historic Costume > Exam 1 > Flashcards

Exam 1 Flashcards

1
Q

Imperial versus commoner by ORNAMENTATION

A

Tunic the Byzantine Empire

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2
Q

circular or square; worn by higher status on tunic

A

Segmentae The Byzantine Empire

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3
Q

stripes; wool; purple or black; higher status on tunic

A

Clavi The Byzantine Empire

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4
Q

block of purple; very high status men

A

Tablion The Byzantine Empire

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5
Q

scarf made of wool; very decorated

A

Pallium/lorum The Byzantine Empire

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6
Q

crown

A

Stemma The Byzantine Empire

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7
Q

leggings worn under tunic by men

A

Hosa The Byzantine Empire

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8
Q

tunic worn by women

A

Dalmatic

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9
Q

draped shawl

A

Palla

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10
Q

worn by empress; fastened over the right shoulder with a jeweled brooch

A

Paludamentum

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11
Q

usually covered either by veil or turbanlike hats

A

women’s hair

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12
Q

long white tunic with narrow sleeves and a slit for the head, tied with a belt; derived from the Roman “tunica alba”

A

Alb

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13
Q

round cape with head cut out; almost like a bib in the front and back; an evolved form of the paenula; worn by clergy in a form with sides cut shorter to allow movement of the arms; a y-shaped band of embroidery called the orphery extended from each should to meet and form a vertical line in the back and front

A

Chasuble

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14
Q

a long, narrow strip of material, which was worn over the shoulder during the mass

A

Stole

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15
Q

a voluminous cape that was worn for processions; worn only by church for ceremonial purposes

A

Cope

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16
Q

capital of the Byzantine Empire was established; a Greek city that had been selected by the Roman Emperor Constantine

A

Constantinople

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17
Q

worn by men; with or without belts; changed length to below the knee; early Middle Ages: Northern and Western Europe

A

Tunics

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18
Q

linen strip to hold hose up

A

hose with gaiters

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19
Q

short sleeved linen garments; undershirt

A

Chemise

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20
Q

rarely depicted on paintings and sculptures; wealthy women wore headbands (circlets) of gold and neckbands or beads, bracelets, rings and earrings; also jeweled belts (girdles)

A

Jewelry worn by women in early middle ages

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21
Q 
young girls: loose, flowing and uncovered
matrons and older women covered with a veil, which was pulled around the face under the chin or was open, hanging close to the sides of the face and ending about mid-chest; rich used silk or fine linen veils while lower class used coarser linen or wool
A

hairstyles during 10th and 11th centuries

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22
Q

underdrawers; loose-fitting linen breeches fastened at the waist with a belt; lengths varied randing from knee length to longer ankle length variations which were wrapped close the leg with gartering

A

Braies

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23
Q

men wore 2 of these, one over the other: outer and under; usually both the same length although sometimes the under was slightly longer and therefore visible at the lower edge of the garment

A

tunic: late middle ages

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24
Q

either open or closed; if open: made from one piece of fabric that fastened on one shoulder. if closed, it was a length of fabric with a slit through which the head could be slipped

A

Mantles: Late Middle Ages (1000-1500 CE)

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25
Q

hose; separate leggings

A

Chausses (shows) Late Middle Ages

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26
Q

tailored tunic; nobility/upper class; one piece

A

Bliaut (Late Middle Ages 12 c. Gothic

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27
Q

1000 CE-1500 CE

A

Late Middle Ages

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28
Q

cap

A

Coif: Late Middle Ages 12th c. Gothic

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29
Q

pointed shoes

A

Pigache: Late Middle Ages 12th century Gothic

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30
Q

variation in sleeves; indication of fashion change

A

sleeve Variation in the Late Middle Ages 12 c. gothic

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31
Q

under tunic

A

Cote Late Middle Ages

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32
Q

outer tunic; some were sleeveless with a round or wide horizontal neckline and wide armholes with garment sewn closed under the wide armhole; others had sleeves to the elbow or 3/4 of the way down the arm or long sleeves cut full and wide under the arm, tapering to the wrist

A

Surcote Late Middle Ages

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33
Q

term referring to sleeveless and other surcotes

A

cyclas Late Middle Ages

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34
Q

long cloak with cape like sleeves

A

Garnache Late Middle Ages

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35
Q

cloak with long, wide sleeves having a slit below the shoulder

A

herigaut Late Middle Ages

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36
Q

brimless hat; over coif

A

Calotte Late Middle Ages

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37
Q

hooded garment with collar; kind of like snude

A

Garnache Late Middle Ages

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38
Q

cloak with long, wide sleeves having a slit below the shoulder

A

Herigaut Late Middle Ages

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39
Q

tailored and fir to the body

A

Pourpoint Late Middle Ages

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40
Q

early 15th century version of the pourpoint; shorter than original

A

Doublet Late Middle Ages

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41
Q

tippet/lappet; replaced loose fitting

A

cotehardie Late Middle Ages

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42
Q

broad, fitted shoulders; belted; older men would wear long

A

Houpplelande Late Middle Ages

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43
Q

undergarment for both men and women worn next to the body and cut as loose, linen garment with sleeves

A

chemise Late Middle Ages

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44
Q

cloak for women

A

Mantles Late Middle Ages

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45
Q

leather; functional; higher heel to keep dress from dragging

A

Clogs Late Middle Ages

46
Q

jeweled belts; decorated sash/belt

A

Girdles Late Middle Ages

47
Q

women’s hairnet worn as a decorative hair covering which was pinned to a hat; married women had to wear them, optional for children; caplike netting covering head, extending at sides to cover and support two coils of hair at each side of face

A

Caul: Late Middle Ages 15th c.

48
Q

large circular or roll of material that fit around the crown; padded, crownlike roll worn on top of head

A

Bourrelet: late middle ages 15th c.

49
Q

high, conical hat usually with a veil affixed to the top

A

Hennin: Late Middle Ages 15th c

50
Q

loose fitted gown with collar styles

A

Roc: Late Middle Ages 15th c

51
Q

Italian word for undershirt

A

Camicia

52
Q

rounded neck; tubular sleeves

A

“Basic” style of gowns; Early Renaissance Women

53
Q

double layer/surcoat; deep v neck front; most distinguished were the sleeve

A

2nd variation of gowns in Early Renaissance Women

54
Q

sleeves pushed up instead of slashed; coat & surcoat; slashed sleeves for mobility

A

3rd variation of gowns in Early renaissance

55
Q

on upper thigh; decorative; indicative of Spanish

A

Slashing

56
Q

little slash cuts; typical of Northern Europe

A

Pinking

57
Q

sleeves cut with puffed upper arm and fitted lower arm

A

Sleeve Variations of Doublet: High Renaissance Men

58
Q

sleeve full at shoulder, tapering to wrist

A

Sleeve Variations of Doublet: High Renaissance Men

59
Q

sleeve with opening that allow the camicia to show through; not slashed but not sewn

A

Sleeve Variations of Doublet: High Renaissance Men

60
Q

Removable sleeves that laced into the armhole

A

Sleeve Variations of doublet: High Renaissance Men

61
Q

beginning of pants/trunk hose fitted hip and thigh

A

upper stocks: High Renaissance Men

62
Q

sewn into upper stocks; became primary focal point, decorated

A

Codpiece: High Renaissance Men

63
Q

big and full

A

Jacket: High Renaissance Men

64
Q

fitted; “pigeon chest” *divergence of Spanish and Italian fashion

A

Peascod Belly Doublet: High Renaissance Men

65
Q

both fashion and function; sexual provocation; masking of treatment for syphillus; built into hose

A

Codpiece: High Renaissance Men

66
Q

detachable collar

A

ruff: High Renaissance Men

67
Q

leggings/joint tights

A

Nether (low) hose: High Renaissance Men

68
Q

style of upperstock, like pumpkin hose; full hips, tapered to knee

A

Venetians: High Renaissance Men

69
Q

flat pie shaped; facial hair prevalent because of masculinity

A

Hats

70
Q

to cover syphillus

A

Ferroniere

71
Q

small cap on crown of head; for decorative purposes

A

Juliet caps

72
Q

to emulate Greeks and Roman Statues

A

eyebrow plucking

73
Q

braids intertwined with ribbon; *focus on hair, not headdress

A

Married women: Early Renaissance Women

74
Q

wider and fuller silhouettes; exposed chemise or scarf; sack sleeves; women’s clothing emulates men

A

gown during High Renaissance women

75
Q

latter laced bodice; tight sleeves

A

Venetian variations

76
Q

tall shoes 6-8 inches

A

Chopines

77
Q

chemise and drawers, hose. corset

A

undergarments

78
Q

high collar

A

Spanish influence: High Renaissance Women

79
Q

type of petticoat

A

farthingale: High Renaissance Women

80
Q

Loose tunic

A

Infants and Toddlers: Renaissance Children

81
Q

dressed in diminutive gowns

A

3-6 y.o. males: renaissance Children

82
Q

miniature versions of adults: high-collar mid 1500’s

A

Older boys and girls: renaissance children

83
Q

snug bodice; voluminous sleeves; wide shoulders; jeweled collars; wide boat neckline

A

Italian silhouette- NortherRenaissance

84
Q

Spanish lose control of Dutch Provinces

A

1578- Northern Renaissance

85
Q

Queen Elizabeth dies

A

1603- Northern Renaissance

86
Q

doublet cut with a deep V at the front

A

Paltock- Northern Renaissance

87
Q

reinforced linen made chest look bigger

A

Stomacher- Northern Renaissance

88
Q

silk, leather, velvet; lining peeking out; higher the status, the wider the bill

A

Duckbill shoes- Northern Renaissance

89
Q

jacket

A

Chamarre- Northern Renaissance

90
Q

pouches of fabric for the genitals sewn at the front of the upper stocks shown in front of garment; VERY exaggerated; went out of style after mid-century

A

Codpiece- Northern Renaissance

91
Q

joined; particolored construction disappears; large, padded breech joined to nether or lower stocks

A

Hose- trunk hose: Northern Renaissance

92
Q

slashing & pinking; duckbill shoes; Nether hose; upper stocks (pumpkin or melon hose)

A

German Style- Northern Renaissance

93
Q

preferred type of pants by middle class; Protestants, knee-length, Navy uniforms

A

Slops- Northern Renaissance

94
Q

inside stomacher; long stick made of long flat piee of wood or whalebone that was sewn into one or more casings provided in the stays

A

Busk- Northern Renaissance

95
Q

chemise continued to be the undermost garment. gowns worn over chemise were plain; somber colors predominated; bodices were fitted; skirts long and full, flaring gently from the waistline to the floor in the front and trailing into long trains at the back

A

Silhouette 1500-1550 Northern Renaissance

96
Q

wheel shaped important element in the shape of western costume; French/drum

A

Farthingale

97
Q

hood worn by conservative. older women

A

Gabled Hood: 1430 Northern Renaissance

98
Q

hood worn by Anne Boleyn; exposes hair in front and back; almost like headband

A

French hood: 1440-1450 Northern Renaissance

99
Q

hair coiled on side covered in gold netting with hat or veil

A

German Style Northern Renaissance

100
Q

big padded donut under farthingale to accentuate hips

A

Bolser- Northern Renaissance

101
Q

accorddian- like collar

A

Ruff- Northern Renaissance

102
Q

circle of lace all around which closed in the front

A

Rebato- Northern Renaissance

103
Q

lace, ruffles, fastens around collar leaving the neck open

A

Medici- Northern Renaissance

104
Q

*transitional garment into Baroque period, laid flat and draped over the shoulder

A

Whisk- Northern Renaissance

105
Q

a sheer, gauzelike veil so fine that in some portraits it can just barely be seen; cut the full length of the body from shoulder to floor and worn capelike over the shoulders; attached at back of the neck to a wing like construction that stood up like a high collar behind the head; consider to have had some significance as a widow’s costume, may have been true in France

A

Conch- Northern Renaissance

106
Q

frame made of sheer linen or lace to support ruff

A

Supportasse- Northern Renaissance

107
Q

backless shoes

A

Mules

108
Q

shoes for men and women appearing sometime during the 1570’s; heels about one and a half inch high

A

high heeled shoes

109
Q

worn only by women; low cut slippers with a strap across the ankle and chopines; first seen in Italy

A

Low cut slippers

110
Q

women wore large quantities of extravagant jewels; neck chains of gold that were wrapped several times around the neck; brooches; pins in shape of spiders; women wore ferronieres in France but was not popular in England;

A

jewelry- Northern Renaissance

111
Q

both men and women carried purses which were suspended from belts; middle/lower class used leather pouches; purses of the wealthy were ornamented with embroidery, beading, metal work and jewels; fans; handkerchiefs and gloves; women wore masks when riding to protect complexion against the sun

A

Accessories- Northern Renaissance

112
Q

first mentioned in French royal inventories in 1359; originating as man’s house coat worn over the pourpoint, the garment was fitted over the shoulder, then widened below into deep, tubular folds or pleats which were held in place by a belt

A

Houppelande

Historic Costume (2 decks)

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