exam 1 Flashcards

1
Q

types of natural fibers

A

Protein Fiber: a fiber comprised of protein, from an animal

Cellulosic fiber: made from plant or plant based materials

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2
Q

Types of protein fibers

A

silk, wool

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3
Q

types of cellulosic fibers

A
cotton 
linen 
jute 
hemp 
bamboo
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4
Q

silk

A

natural protein fiber, several species of silk worms but 90% of silk comes from a kind of caterpillar that eats mulberry leaves

pros: good tensile strength, luxurious hand
cons: may water spot, yellows with age, degraded by UV light

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5
Q

wool

A

natural protein fiber,
can be from any animal, Think angora and cashmere!
-long, fine hair sheep makes worsted wool which has a smooth fine surface
-short curly hair produces hefty fabrics with a “warm” hand
pros: resists wrinkling, absorbent, resilient, burns slowly and self extinguishes, drawability
cons: tricky to clean, prickly, too warm

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6
Q

cotton

A

natural cellulosic fiber,
soft fluffy fiber that grows in a protective capsule, around the seeds of cotton plants
-native to americas, africa and india
-most widely used natural fiber in cloth
pros: absorbant, dyes well
cons: flammable unless treated with chemicals, tends to wrinkle and soil

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7
Q

linen

A

natural cellulosic fiber.
textile made from the fibers of the flax plant
-valued for coolness and freshness in hot weather
-pros: lint free, resists pilling and degradation from UV, absorbent, dyes well, resists dirt and stains
cons: wrinkles, reacts to moisture in air, elongates and shrinks with humidity (low elasticity), affects by mildew, orders, bleach
appearance: crisp, smooth or slubs

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8
Q

types of synthetic fibers

A
  • cellulosic man-made fiber: made from plant or plant based materials with chemicals added to enhance the fiber
  • noncellulosic fiber: chemical extrusions
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9
Q

types of cellulosic man-made fiber

A
rayon 
acetate 
lyocell
PLA
bamboo
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10
Q

types of noncellulosic fiber

A
polyester 
nylon 
acrylic 
polypropylene 
glass
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11
Q

rayon

A

discovered in 1890’s, created to mimic to feel like silk.

  • from a combination of wood pulp and is chemically bonded into synthetic fibers of cellulose
  • pros: absorbent, easy to dye, drapes well, soft, smooth
  • cons: need to check wash/care instructions, can wrinkle
  • appearance can mimic the feel and texture of silk, wool, cotton and linen
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12
Q

acetate

A
  • essentially a rayon fiber with an acid component which results in a heat resistant fiber.
  • resists shrinking, moths and is otherwise similar to rayon , often used as a liner
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13
Q

lyocell

A

created in 1991-trade name Tencel. Very similar to rayon in creation, properties, and appearance but more durable, stronger and easier to clean

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14
Q

PLA

A

(Poly Lactic Acid)
created in last decade and is made similar to rayon but made from sugar crops, corn and beets. Pros: good wicking, low absorption, lightt fiber, low smoke/flame

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15
Q

bamboo

A

is manufactured similar to rayon. it is inherently antibacterial. regenerates quickly and slows deforestation

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16
Q

polyester

A

springy hand, resists wrinkling, shrinkage, mildew; melts, self-extinguishes; oleophillic,
used for carpets, multipurpose, used in blends for upholstery
-pleats and creases must be heat set; crisp hand

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17
Q

nylon

A

strong, elastic, abrasion resistant, resists damage by many chemicals, low absorbency, hydrophobic

  • used for carpet, upholstery, drapery, blends may pill
  • lustrous, can be fine or coarse depending on fiber cross section and size
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18
Q

acrylic

A

low absorbency, dyeable, resists wrinkling, soiling, and damage from UV
-can resemble cotton or wool
used from carpeting, upholstery, novelty, may pill unless continuous fiber

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19
Q

polypropylene (AKA Olefin)

A

high bulk, resists abrasion, moisture, UV, chemicals, low melting temp, oleophilic

  • springy and waxy feel
  • used for carpeting, upholstery and used in blends
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20
Q

glass

A

fiberglass is nonabsorbent, flame resistant, used for window coverings, its heavy can cause skin irritation if handled excess. the term glass curtains is also used inplace of the term sheers, which may be made of another fiber type

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21
Q

functional outcome of fiber to fabric-how to judge a textile

A
  1. fiber type characteristics: pros/cons/appearance
  2. the length of the fiber: long=smooth vs short=fuzzy
  3. the kink of the fiber: how does it kink, curl, or stretch?
  4. yarn thickness: a thick denier adds more fiber and creates more structure to the cloth
  5. weave construction: some weaves are more durable/stable
  6. weave density: the tighter the yarns are, the more stable the fabric
  7. processes: treatments and chemicals alter the performance
22
Q

BCF

A

bulk continuos filament

straight lines with no frays is BCF, with frays is staple fiber or yarn

23
Q

yarn: ply-

A

the number of yarns twisted together

24
Q

denier

A

thickness of the yarn or linear mass density of fibers

25
Q

novelty yarn

A

there are many types, Boucle is an example. It retains a small loop in its construction

26
Q

weave

A

creating a form by interlacing long threads running in one direction with other threads at a right angle to them

27
Q

plain weave

A

the simplest of weaves

28
Q

other common weave types

A

basket
twill
satin
herringbone

29
Q

complex weaves

A
tapestry 
crepe 
don't-spot 
pocket cloth 
lobby weave 
houndstooth
30
Q

dyeing methods

A
  • solution dyeing
  • fiber or stock dyeing
  • yarn dying
  • piece dyeing
31
Q

solution dyeing

A

pigment is added to the solution before fibers are spun

-these fabrics will resist fading and will resist water borne stains (such as bodily fluids, bleach, etc.)

32
Q

fiber or stock dyeing

A

fibers are dyed, through fiber color, not just on surface

33
Q

piece dyeing

A

fabric is dyed after it has been woven. if a single fiber is used fabric will be a single color. If two different fibers are used that respond different to the dye used, various effects will result

34
Q

yarn dyeing

A

after fiber is spun into yarn a single color is distributed throughout the yarn

  • package/beam dyed
  • skein dyed
  • space dyeing
35
Q

package/beam dyed

A

yarn is wound on a spool and immersed in a dye bath

36
Q

skein dyed

A

unwound skeins are dunked into a dye bath. Custom colors may be produced this way

37
Q

space dyeing

A

yarn is printed in colors and the pattern of the printing gets randomized when the fabric is made

38
Q

printing

A

complex process- the more colors and pattern involved, the more precise the process must be

  • printed fabric will identify the quantity of colors used on the edge of the fabric
  • the more color saturation the fabric, the more durable the color retention
  • pros: customizable
  • cons: can be costly, may wear off
39
Q

types of printing

A

handmade: block, screen, resist

Machine made: roller, rotary screen, flatbed-screen, warp, discharge, digital, heat transfer

40
Q

other types of finishings

A
embossing 
flocking 
calendaring 
crushing 
glazing 
heat setting 
singed 
quilting 
embroidery
41
Q

leather key terms

-hide

A

imperfect-sized rectangles of consistency materials

42
Q

leather grades:

A

tanneries grade the skins they are processing according to their quality and presence of damage

  • 41 hide: free from holes, cuts, deep scores
  • 42: contains 1-4 holes, cuts, or deep scores
  • 43: contains 5 or more
43
Q

leather grains

A

texture of the skin
full grain leather: best kind of leather, no imperfections
top grain (top full):bad, corrected leather has a plastic top coat to readd the grain after its been fixed and sanded

44
Q

things to consider for picking the most appropriate fabric

A

-flammability
-germs
-abrasion
-fade resistance
-tear strength
-pilling
-seam slippage
crocking
-stain resistance
-toxicity
-sustainability

45
Q

flammability

A

-flame/fire retardant
-FRT flame retardant treated: fabric is topically treated with chemicals. if laundered or dry cleaned, the chemicals can wear off over time. treatment may need to be reapplied
(FR) Inherent: flame resistant built into the fiber structure. polyester is made to be this way

46
Q

NFPA (national fire protection associate) 701

A

this standard establishes test methods to assess the propagation )movement through a medium) of flame of various textiles and films under specified fire test conditions

47
Q

germs

A
  • antimicrobial treatments are applied to fabrics to ward off bacteria, fungi, mold and mildew
  • also resist in repelling orders and stains causing health concerns
  • various types of chemical treatments. antimicrobial chemicals can either be built into the fiber or applied topically
  • trade names ex vary by manufacturer
48
Q

backings

A
  • laminating various backings to a fabric can make the fabric better suited for a particular installation:
  • vinyl to be impervious to moisture
  • knit backing to add strength to a fragile fabric
  • latex to add strength and prevent seam slippage
  • paper to turn a fabric into wall covering
49
Q
cleaning codes meanings 
W
S
W-S
X
A
W= the fabric should be cleaned with water 
S= the fabric should be dry cleaned with solvents not water as the base 
W-S= fabric can be cleaned between water or solvent based cleaners 
x= don't use cleaners of any kind. brush/vacuum only.. recommended for drapery
50
Q

sustainability cycle

A
safety of materials 
water conservation 
energy consumption 
recycling practices 
air quality 
social accountability 
material sourcing