Putting Flashcards

1
Q

When you guide your putter selection by how the club feels in your hand, how it looks when you put it down in front of you, how it fits you physically, and how the ball feels when you roll it, you’re going to end up with something that inspires more confidence. I believe that “match” has more to do with how pleasing the head shape is to your eye, the loft on the face and the kind of grip on the club than any specific “style” the club has. In that sense, the particular kind of putter you have in your hand matters less, as long as it feels good to you and helps you.

A

Now, do I believe that the average player can benefit from new putter technology? Absolutely. The new putters dramatically reduce the penalty for missing the sweet spot on the face, and the material and groove technology improve the quality of the roll for anybody, regardless of their skill level.

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2
Q

We’ve talked about how important the forward press is in the stroke—and starting out with 4 degrees of loft on the face of the putter lets you forward press and keep loft on the face through impact for a good roll.

A

When a putter has little or no loft, it causes you to subconsciously shift the grip back, away from the hole, to see more of the face. It’s hard to roll the ball well from there. You want to make sure you have enough loft on the putterface so that there’s some loft of the face at impact.

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3
Q

As far as balance goes, I think it’s important for a putter to feel “light” in yourhands. I don’t want to pick it up and immediately feel the weight of the clubhead.

A

Some players go with a heavier head because they think it helps keep them steadier, or because they feel that they don’t have to make as big a swing. I think that’s robbing yourself of a lot of the sensitivity in your fingers. I want a balanced putter, not a heavy head or a heavy grip.

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4
Q

If you struggle with your stroke, you’d probably be better off with a putter that’s face-balanced. Face-balanced weighting means the putter wants to stay square through impact. That gives you a larger sweet spot across the face, for when you don’t catch the ball right in the center.

A

To check if a putter is face-balanced, balance the shaft on your finger, up near the head. If the face is horizontal and parallel to the ground, the putter is face-balanced.

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5
Q

The style and size of grip you use should absolutely feel good to you, but you have to be careful not to use a grip that is too small. If the grip is small in your fingers, your tendency is to hold on tighter with your fingers to stabilize it. That tension is not good for feel.

A

As long as the size doesn’t get out of control, and doesn’t change the overall balance of the putter, I think it’s an option to consider.

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6
Q

And really, the only way to narrow it down and find the putter for you is to try a bunch.

A

You can get some insight into what putters are popular bychecking a tour player’s bag, especially if he or she is using a different brand of putter than the rest of the clubs in the bag. Tour players don’t mess around with putters.

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7
Q

The new materials they’re using in the face inserts and the quality of the groove and weighting technology mean that you can miss the “sweet spot” slightly and still get a good roll.

A

The grooves are as important on a putter as a wedge. You wouldn’t want to try to control a shot with a wedge that had no grooves—but that’s a discussion for another book. I feel like I don’t have to be perfect in terms of hitting the sweet spot, and I’m still going to have control over the speed and roll. I’m more concerned about stroking it through impact with a square face and starting the ball on my line.

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8
Q

The last piece of advice I have for you on equipment might sound unimportant, but it’s an importantstep to becoming a real player. As I said at the beginning of the chapter, you can’t be a good putter unless you treat your equipment with respect. Put your putter in the top end of the bag, with your driver and other woods, and keep the headcover on it. Don’t stick it in the bottom divider of your bag along with your wedges, where it can get beat to all hell. If it bangs around with the other short clubs, it can get nicks and dings on the face and leading edge. Those bumps and bruises are distracting, and they can cause the face to shine, which makes it hard to see.

A
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9
Q

The best putters are players who spend almost all of their energy and focus on the line and speed of the putt, and almost none of it on mechanics.

A
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10
Q

But the two main problems I have with this emphasis on mechanics are that it leaves out the most important part of putting—the mental side—and it encourages you to trace somebody else’s signature instead of signing your own. When you’re concentrating so hard on what your hands are doing, how far to take back the putter, whether it’s going back in a straight line or on a slight arc—or any other bit of mechanical information—you’re diverting your attention from where it should be: on line and speed.

A
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11
Q

It doesn’t really matter to me if you have a short, quick stroke or a long, flowing one. You don’t have to have a stance that’s perfectly square to the target line, or a ball position that stays absolutely locked in day in and day out.

A

What you do need to have is a setup and a stroke that suits you—your temperament, your body type, and what makes you comfortable.

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12
Q

On top of all that, a person just doesn’t feel the same from day to day. People aren’t machines. Some days, it might feel better to have a little wider stance and a ball position a little farther forward. I encourage every player I teach to be receptive to those feelings, and to go with them. I get asked all the time about my ball position, or exactly how wide or open my stance is when I putt. The answer—“It depends…”—

A

The best putters are players who spend almost all of their energy and focus on the line and speed of the putt, and almost none of it on mechanics. They connect with the “feel,” not with a mechanical checklist of body parts and movements.

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13
Q

Mechanics do play a role, especially if you’re a beginner or a player who can’t make the most basic repeatable contact with the middle of the putterface.

A

Developing some solid basics is like going to driver’s training class as a fifteenyear-old. You learn how to start the car, put it in gear, hold the steering wheel, accelerate, turn, and stop. Once you know those things, then you learn how to drive. Real driving is diagnosing the situations that unfold in front of you and responding to them with physical movements that are virtually subconscious.

Watch a NASCAR driver make a pass at 200 miles per hour and try to tell me that he’s thinking about how far to move his hand on the gear-shift lever, or how many inches he should adjust the wheel to the left. He isn’t. Those movements have been shifted to the background.

The same has always been true for me when I’m standing over a putt on the first green (or the 72nd) at a PGA Tour or Champions Tour event. When I’m going through my routine, I’m determining my line and the speed I want toroll the ball, and narrowing my mental focus—which we’ll talk about more in Chapter Three. I don’t think about the mechanical process of rolling the ball any more than I’d think about the mechanics of dropping an ice cube into a glass of water.

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14
Q

The whole point of reading a green is to give yourself a mental picture of what the ball will do on the path from where it sits to the hole. You’re trying to analyze the conditions—distance, slope, grain—and choose the right line for the situation. You’re picking the right combination of pace and direction.

A

The first time I watched Phil Mickelson go through his routine on the 12-footer I described at the beginning of the chapter, I was astonished at his ritual. He basically made a 420-degree circuit around the putt—looking at it from the high side, behind the hole, the low side, behind the ball and back to the apex of the putt’s break—all to feel comfortable about the line he was seeing. If all of that helps you see your line, and doesn’t get in the way of making a comfortable stroke at a pace that suits you, I’m all for it. But if you have a two-minute reading and pre-putt routine that doesn’t help you see the line better or feel more comfortable, all you’re doing is giving yourself more time to get nervous and think about the reasons you’re going to miss. That’s just not productive.

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15
Q

When you approach a green from the front, you can feel the changes in contour and relative firmness of the grass with your feet, and you can seethe predominant slopes on the putting surface. You can see which way the green drains—which is also the primary direction putts will break on that hole.

A
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16
Q

That’s where I’m trying to get you—to the point where you trust your instincts and go with them. Even if you don’t pick the right line, you’re going to get a better result than if you hit the putt without seeing and committing to a line.

A
17
Q

My first priority is to pick the basic break of the putt. My goal is to find a break in every putt I see, so I can determine what part of the hole I want to roll the ball into.

A

Many people look at the line of a putt as if they were shooting a gun at the hole. The ball leaves on a line, and the line bisects the hole exactly in the hole’s center. If you putt that way, you give away too much of the hole and reduce your margin for error. If the only place the ball can go into the hole is in the center, you only have the edges of the hole on either side of the center line as a place for the putt to enter.

18
Q

On the other hand, if I have a 12-footer with six inches of break from right to left, I’ll visualize a curve, with the ball falling into the hole at about four o’clock.

A

On that line, if I hit it a shade too hard, the ball has a chance to drop in on the high side, at three or even two o’clock. If it’s a shade too soft, it can drop in on the low side, at five or six o’clock. Not only have I given myself a much more specific target, but I’ve given myself a lot more space for the ball to drop in. If I aim for the center of the cup—six o’clock—and hit the putt a shade too soft, it has no chance of going in. If I hit it too hard (combined with the fact that I haven’t played enough break), I’m probably going to lip it out and leave myself a downhill, sidehill comeback putt.

19
Q

As I walk up and mark my ball, I’m using my eyes and my feet to determine what the predominant break is on the putt. That’s an important piece of the puzzle, because I almost never play a putt longer than four or five feet dead straight. I want to see a little curve on it, and get very specific about which part of the hole I want my ball to roll into.

A
20
Q

Once I’ve determined the speed and predominant break, I move to the low side of the break—opposite the apex of the putt. In other words, if I have that same 12-footer with six inches of right-to-left break, I’ll walk to the left side of the hole (from your perspective if you were watching me from behind the ball), about five steps to the side of my line, and stop at the midway point of the putt.

A

Why do I look at the putt from the low side? I believe it’s the best position to see the complete layout of the green contours. One way to illustrate what I mean is to take a book and open it in front of you. If you tilt the book toward you, you can see everything on the page. Tilt it away from you, and you can’t see much at all. It also gives you an excellent visual of the distance the ball needs to travel, and the pace that the ball will be rolling. You’ll also be able to see subtle uphill and downhill grades more distinctly.

21
Q

When you read a putt from the low side of the break, you can see more detail than you can from the high side.

A
22
Q

If I have a dramatic uphill or downhill putt, I might take a look at the putt from behind the hole as well, but usually the look from the low side is enough for me to start to pick my line.

A
23
Q

From the low side, I break the putt into thirds, and get really interested in the last third of the putt.

A

Whether you’ve got a 10-footer or a 30-footer, most of the break happens in that last third, when the ball starts to slow down. I visualize how the ball will take the curve on that last third, and exactly where it will drop into the hole.

24
Q

The factors that impact speed and break are mostly what you would expect.

A

Slope—whether it’s sidehill, uphill, or downhill—and green firmness are the big ones. And the kinds of grass on the green also impact speed and break.

25
Q

And the kinds of grass on the green also impact speed and break.

A

Bermuda grass has a definite grain, and that grain runs in the direction of the setting sun—or a moderate slope, from water running down it. From just off the green, you can actually see which way the grain moves—the grass looks shiny when you’re looking down-grain, and dull when you’re looking into the grain. Putts will tend to move faster when they go with the grain and slower against it, and the grain will also exaggerate a break running in the same direction, or hold it up when against.

26
Q

Regardless of the kind of grass, every green has a drainage area on one side, or in the front or back.

On many courses, you’ll actually be able to see a little plastic or metal grating. Greens are designed with a slight tilt so that rain doesn’t pool on the surface. That tilt obviously impacts the overall direction putts break on the hole. It doesn’t mean that every putt on that hole breaks toward the drain, but if you’re stumped for a read and can’t see a different break, it’s good information to have.

If the course is in an area with significant elevation changes, you can use that information as well.

Older courses near the ocean will generally have greens that break toward the water. Greens on courses with natural rivers or lakes will tend to break toward those bodies of water, because they’re the natural places for rain runoff to travel.

A

Again, this information comes into play when you can’t see any other obvious break.

An important exception to these general rules comes on modern courses like Kiawah Island, where greens tend to break away from the ocean or other environmentally sensitive areas, because the designers are required to protect against chemical runoff.

27
Q

There might be a science to hitting a tee shot with a driver, but putting is an art form.

A

The closer you can come to making your natural, signature putting stroke, the more sensitive you’re going to be to speed.

Then, when you play a certain course, you’ll get a feel for where the greens rate in overall speed. That feel will translate into the size of your stroke on a given putt. There’s no equationfor it.

28
Q

One question I get fairly often is about how specific and precise the line I visualize is. I have a two-part answer. When I make my read and visualize the line the ball takes to the hole, I’m picturing a very specific path to the hole. I’m visualizing what my ball will do.

But it’s important to understand that locking into a very specific visualization of your line doesn’t mean you should spend ten minutes cramming every tiny bit of information about contour, grain, and green conditions into your mental computer to come up with the “perfect” read. When you hold yourself to that kind of information standard, you’re going to be constantly second-guessing yourself, and that seed of doubt does much more damage to your stroke than a “perfect” read will benefit you.

A

It’s not about being perfect. If you take your first impression and go with it, you’re going to be looser, and you’re going to make a better stroke. In my experience, taking more time to do something that should be done in your subconscious is almost never better. And if your putt is to win something, that extra time is only going to serve to tighten you up.

29
Q

I want to emphasize again that rolling the ball at the right speed is more important than choosing the right line.

A

** Work on feel and speed mor than anything else.**

Tiger Woods would put with his eyes closed to help with feel/speed on greens.

30
Q

I want to emphasize again that rolling the ball at the right speed is more important than choosing the right line.

A

My dad taught me never to leave a putt short, but never roll it more than a foot and a half past the hole.

A lot of my practice time as a kid was spent with a tee stuck in the edge of the cup at the point on the clock indicating the perfect entry spot, and another tee 18 inches behind the hole as a guide for the limit I’d want the ball to run out.

31
Q

A lot of my practice time as a kid was spent with a tee stuck in the edge of the cup at the point on the clock indicating the perfect entry spot, and another tee 18 inches behind the hole as a guide for the limit I’d want the ball to run out.

A

Using those two tees, you can move around the green hitting no more than two balls at a time, fine-tuning your ability to not only see the line, but also control your speed so that you’re always around the hole.

32
Q

Far, far more three-putts happen because of a speed mistake than a read mistake.

You almost never see somebody read a putt so poorly that they miss the line by three or four feet to the left or right of the hole. The problems come when the ball dies far too short or goes rolling by hot.

Developing speed control also improves your ability to visualize the ideal line, simply because you’ll be getting a lot of feedback on putts that end up nearthe hole.

A
33
Q

Putting Routine

A
  1. Start from a crouch behind the ball to determine the main break on a putt.
  2. Then move from there to the low side of the break.
  3. After I’ve looked at the putt from the low side, I’ll walk back behind the ball and crouch for a second or two, just to confirm what I see. (** I’m not rereading the putt from back there—and that’s an important point**). Once you’re able to lock in on speed and line, don’t waste that effort with the next step you take.
  4. I keep my eyes and my focus on the line during my entire pre-putt routine. My entire goal is to get set up to the ball in a way that gets me aimed to roll it on the line I’m seeing.
  5. I immediately stand up and walk in from behind the ball while making a couple of small “feel” strokes with my open right hand (and holding the putter in my left).
  6. Address the ball, while continuing to look at the line (NOT the ball)
  7. Take one last look at the hole, and focus your eyes on a spot in front of the ball where you want to start your line.
  8. Then start your stroke — never losing your connection to the line.