Waves in Shallow water Flashcards
1
Q
What are dispersion waves?
A
Larger waves can move away from the storm center faster than shorter waves
2
Q
What generates the sea?
A
- Local winds
- Short periods
- Short wavelengths
- Steepness
3
Q
What generates the swell?
A
- Distant storms
- Long periods
- Long wavelengths
- NOT steep
4
Q
Celerity that depend on wavelength and period
A
Deep-water waves
5
Q
Celerity that depend on water depth
A
Shallow-water waves
-in some depths they move the same speed
6
Q
Why does wave shape change when waves move into shallow water?
A
- Celerity decreases
- Wave begins to “pile up” on itself (H increases, L decreases, waves steepen)
- Wave period remains the same
7
Q
What factors affect wave shape when waves move into shallow water?
A
- Celerity decreases
- Wave begins to “pile up” on itself (H increases, L decreases, waves steepen)
- Wave period remains the same
