Fibres And Fabrics Flashcards

1
Q

Cotton properties

A
Strong
Cool to wear
Creases easily
Easy to sew/handle
Non-stretchy
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2
Q

Cotton uses

A

T shirts
Denim
Bed sheets
Canvas

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3
Q

Linen properties

A

Strong
Cool to wear
Creases easily
Easy to handle/sew

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4
Q

Linen uses

A

Bed sheets
Suits
Upholstery
Tablecloth

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5
Q

Wool properties

A

Strong
Insulator
Crease resistant

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6
Q

Wool uses

A

Jumpers
Blankets
Insulation
Carpet

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7
Q

Silk properties

A

Good handle
Good lustre
Crease resistant
Difficult to handle/sew

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8
Q

Silk uses

A

Evening wear
Gowns
Ties
Bed sheets

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9
Q

Polyester properties

A

Non-absorbent
Durable
Crease resistant
Easily metlts

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10
Q

Polyester uses

A

Clothing
Wadding
Rope
Sails

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11
Q

Nylon properties

A

Non-absorbent
Very strong
Durable
Abrasion resistant

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12
Q

Nylon uses

A

Seat belts
Tents
Tights

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13
Q

Acrylic properties

A

Water resistant
Quick drying
Strong
Good insulator

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14
Q

Acrylic uses

A

Ski jacket

Outdoor furniture

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15
Q

Viscose properties

A

Absorbent
Good insulator
Creases easily
Weak especially when wet

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16
Q

Viscose uses

A

Table cloths

Sportsweat

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17
Q

Elastane

A

Non-absorbent
Elastic
Quick drying

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18
Q

Elastane uses

A

Swimwear
Jeans
Tights
Leggings

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19
Q

Why do we mix/blend fibres

A

Benefits of properties from more than 1 fibre

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20
Q

Polycotton benefits

A

Polyester- strength, durability, cheaper, stain/crease resistant
Cotton- drape, cool to wear, absorbency

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21
Q

Cotton elastane

A

Cotton- drape, absorbency, cool to wear

Elastane- crease resistant, stretchy

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22
Q

Acrylic wool

A

Acrylic- fast deying, strength, cheap

Wool- insulator, crease resistant, absorbency

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23
Q

Two types/origins of natural fibres

A
Natural proteins (wool/silk/cashmere)
Natural cellulose (cotton/linen/hemp/jute)
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24
Q

Synthetic fibres from petrochemicals

A

Coal/oil —> hydrocarbon monomers —> polymer chains

Finite/unsustainable

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25
Q

Regenerated fibres

A

Natural polymers, plant based sources

More sustainable

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26
Q

Technical textile

A

Altered polymerisation process, achieve a certain characteristic
Eg. Kevlar - parrallel, strong bonds

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27
Q

Cotton source

A
Cotton grown
Seed pod harvested
Ginning (circular saws separate seed from fibre)
Dried (prevent clumping)
Baled and shipped
Cleaned/bleached
Spun into yarn
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28
Q

Linen source

A
Stem of flax plant
Uprooted NOT cut
Retted (rot) away outside layer
Stems broken
Cleaned
Spun into yarn
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29
Q

Wool source

A

Sheep sheared
Grades (Eg coarser: insulation, finer: clothes)
Scoured (remove grease)

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30
Q

Silk source

A
Silkworms bred in captivity
Silkworm cocoons
Silk fibre forms
Boiled NOT cut
Pull silk fibre, wind onto bobbins
Cleaned/dried
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31
Q

Three types/scales of fibres

A

Staple
Filament
Micro

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32
Q

Staple fibre

A

Short
Crimped
Mesh well
Natural fibres

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33
Q

Filament fibre

A

Long
Smooth
Dont mesh well
Synthetic and silk

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34
Q

Microfibres

A

Drape
Breathability
Durability
Synthetic polymers

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35
Q

Woven fabric with an example

A

Warp (vertical/stronger) and weft (horizontal/weaker) yarns

Cotton

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36
Q

Three types of weave

A

Plain
Twill
Satin

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37
Q

Plain weave

A

Versatile
One vert, one horiz
Eg. muslin

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38
Q

Twill weave

A

Diagonal pattern
Heavier
More durable
Eg. Denim/canvas

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39
Q

Satin weave

A
Weft woven under warp
Larger surface area —> shiny
Smooth, lustrous, good handle/drape
Weak
Snags/frays easily
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40
Q

Non woven examples and properties

A
Eg. Felt
Uses: surgical masks, wet wipes, craft uses
Short and crimped fibres
Mesh well
Bonded with oressure/heat/adhesive
Doesnt fray
Weak especially when wet
Bad environmental footprint
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41
Q

Two types of knitted fabrics

A

Weft
Continuous yarn, interlocking loops
Hand/machinery
Socks

Warp
Machinery
Sportswear
Doesnt unravel

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42
Q

Ecological imapct of natural cellulose

A

Intensive farming, meet demand
Excess water
Pesticides/fertilisers (kill wildlife, pollute water/air)

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43
Q

Ecological impact of natural protein fibres

A

Overgrazing
Deforestation
Insecticides- pollution
Methane

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44
Q

Ecological impact of synthetic fibres

A

Finite resource, crude oil, greenhouse gases

Water pollution/contamination

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45
Q

Social/ethical textile issues

A

Poor working conditions
(Long hours/low pay/no safety equipment/no lighting/heating/air con)
Child labour

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46
Q

Life cycle natural textile vs synthetic

A

Natural- biodegradable, carbon dioxide, dyes/chems pollute

Synthetic- very slow to biodegrade, toxins, greenhouse gases

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47
Q

Three levels of recycling textiles

A

Primary- pass on
Secondary- upcycle
Tertiary- broken down to original state, uses energy, not infinitely possible
Thermoplastic: cleaned, shredded, melted, reformed, spun
Natural: shredded, bleached, spun

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48
Q

Drill

A

Cotton

Upholstery

49
Q

Jersey

A

Cotton/wool/polyester

Tshirts

50
Q

Denim

A

Cotton/elastane

Jeans

51
Q

Voile

A

Silk/cotton

Mosquito nets

52
Q

Tweed

A

Wool

Jackets

53
Q

Gaderdine

A

Wool

Suits

54
Q

Felt

A

Wool/acrylic

Craft

55
Q

Broadcloth

A

Cotton

Dresses

56
Q

Sheeting

A

Cotton/polyester

Bed sheets

57
Q

Damask

A

Silk/cotton/polyester

Napkins

58
Q

Muslin

A

Cotton

Sheer curtains

59
Q

Satin

A

Silk/polyester

Occassion dresses

60
Q

Crepe

A

Silk/polyester/viscose

Blouses

61
Q

Velvet

A

Cotton/polyester/viscose

Evening wear

62
Q

Corduroy

A

Cotton/polyester

Trousers

63
Q

Four types of thread

A

Machine threads
Tacking thread
Embroidery thread
Monofilament

64
Q

Machine thread

A

Strong

Move smoothly through machine

65
Q

Tacking thread

A

Strong
Thick
Hand sewing

66
Q

Embroidery thread

A

Thick
Luxurious
Decorative work

67
Q

Monofilament

A

Very strong
Usually clear
Invisible stitching

68
Q

Fastenings and an example of use

A
Button (shirt)
Poppers (baby clothes)
Zips (cushions)
Velcro (shoes)
Hook and eye (bras)
Toggle (coats)
69
Q

3 factors to comsider about thread

A

Weight
Strength
Texture
Appearance

70
Q

3 factors to consider fastenings

A

Aesthtic
Function
Safety

71
Q

3 structural components

A

Boning
Petersham
Interfacing

72
Q

Boning

A

Metal/plastic strip
Reinforce seams
Give shape
Corsets

73
Q

Petersham

A

Heavyweight ribbon

Stiffen/reinforce button bands

74
Q

Interfacing

A

Medium weight bonded fabric

Stiffen collars/cuffs

75
Q

Bias binding

A

Strip of fabric finish seam edge

76
Q

Elastic

A

Various weights/widths

Waist bands, underwear

77
Q

Decorative components

A

Ribbon
Sequins
Beads

78
Q

Cutting lines

A

Guide cutting

79
Q

Fold lines

A

Symetrical doubled fabric pieces

80
Q

Balance notches

A

Match pieces

Increase accuracy

81
Q

Darts/pleats/tucks/bust/hip placements

A

Lines brought together

82
Q

Grain line

A

Directionnof straight grain

83
Q

Adjustement lines

A

Lengthened/shortened

84
Q

Dots

A

Placement of components (buttons)

85
Q

Four types of cutting, properties and uses

A

Scissors: easy, cheap, bespoke
Roller blade: sharp, cheap, bespoke
Laser cutter: quick, expensive, complicated patterns (lace)
Band saw: requires training/equipment, efficient, industrial production

86
Q

4 types of seam

A

Plain seam
French seam
Flat felled seam
Finishing seams (top stitching, biased binding, piping)

87
Q

Plain seam

A

Low strength
Not enclosed/ visible edges
1 line of stitching
T shirts

88
Q

French seams

A

Medium strength
Lingerie
Enclosed/hidden edges
2 lines of stitching

89
Q

Flat felled seams

A

High strength
Jeans
Enclosed/hidden edges
2 lines of stitching

90
Q

Pleats

A

Fold fabric back on itself
Narrows width
Adds shape/body

91
Q

Gathers

A

Sew along edge
Thread ends pulled
Narrows width
Fullness

92
Q

Darts

A

Improve shape/fit
Taper to a point
Bust/bodice

93
Q

Clipping seam

A

Seam along curve
Little triangle cut ohts
Lie flatter
Neckholes/armholes

94
Q

Boning

A

Structure

Corsets

95
Q

Interfacing

A

Non woven
Bonded
Sewn/ironed
Stiffens necklines/cuffs/collars

96
Q

Interlining

A

Layer of fabric

Insulation/structure

97
Q

Lining

A

Lightweight fabric

Comfort/aesthetics

98
Q

Underlining

A

Beneath sheer fabric

Opacity

99
Q

Toiles

A

Test/adapt pattern

Cotton/paper (cheap material)

100
Q

Product testing

A

Small samples (tension/dyes)
Swtaches (abrasion/stain resistance/strength/weight
Stakeholder feedback/opinions

101
Q

5 times to dye

A

Polymer- liquid solution, no fade/transfer
Fibre- raw fibre, consistency
Yarn- inconsistent, can create stripes/tartan
Piece- length of fabric, inconsistent
Garment- range of colours

102
Q

Mechanical finishes (2)

A

Brushing- wire brush, soft, can weaken fabric

Calendering- pressing, smooth

103
Q

Chemical finishes (4)

A

Mercerising- swell, lustrous, absorb more dye
Crease resistant- resin, stiffens, dries faster
Flame resistant- durbale, high risk products
Bleaching- removes colour, consistency

104
Q

Biological finishes (1)

A

Stone washes- denim, distressed, add stones to industrial washing machines

105
Q

4 smart finishes

A

Thermochromic
Photochromic
Microencapsulation
Surface decoration

106
Q

Thermochromic

A

Inks change colour acfording to temp

Baby clothes

107
Q

Photochromic

A

Changes according to natural light

Summer clothing

108
Q

Microencapsulation

A

Tiny capsules contqin fragrance/chemicals

Repellents/ perfumed fabric

109
Q

Surface decoration

A

Applique, embroidery, patchwork, quilting, laser etching

110
Q

Rapid prototyping

A

Laser cutter + 3D printer

111
Q

Digital manufacture

A

Digital fabric printing- Large inkjet printer
Sublimation- heat + pressure, crisp, washable
Laser cutting- 2D CAD, etch/cut, accurate

112
Q

Interpretations of plans

A

Digital lay planning- software, decrease waste
CAD- evaluate prototypes
CAM- semi/fully automatic machines, increase consistency, decrease error

113
Q

Scales of manufacture

A

One of/bespoke- inefficient, wedding dress, 100 garments
Batch- production line, seasonal lines, 10,000 garments
Mass- constant production, cheap, 100,000, t shirts
Just in time- quick response, little storage, little waste

114
Q

Large scale production processes (6)

A

Band saw- templates, chainmail, skilled workers, efficient
Flatbed printing- conveyor, variety of patterns
Rotary screen printing- converyor, fast, continuous pattern
Industrial sewing machines- constant use, heavy duty
Automated presses- remove creases, efficient, heat and pressure
Steam dollies- press abstract shapes

115
Q

Manufacturing specificiation (ppcc)

A

Details of product, pattern, components, construction

116
Q

Quality control checks

A
Critical points
Ensure consistency, remove faults
Material (snags/patterns/holes/stains)
Components (size/colour/damage)
Seams (tolerance/oreintation/holes)
Construction (pockets/buttons/zips/sleeves/alignment)
117
Q

Correcting faults

A
Name - misaligned button
Appearance - button/holes dont match
Cause - error in measurement
Effect - hem doesnt meet
Repair - unpick, resew
Action - change specification
Prevention - check specification
118
Q

Why is quality control important

A

Good qaulity, good reputation, more sales

119
Q

Tolerance/minimisng waste

A

Seam allowance/room for error

Lay plans/pattern cutters