Coastal Processes Flashcards
1
Q
eustatic sea level - increase/decrease of water in the world
Waves: most water waves are wind generated - friction of air against the water
Swells - when a wave laterally displaces away from where it formed
Waves of translation - horizontal movement of water
higher and steeper waves tilt forward and break
swash runs up onto the beach
backwash returns
A
2
Q
Wave Refraction
A
Waves changing direction when they approach the shore - line of waves are not exactly parallel to the shore
3
Q
Tsunami Formation
A
Disruption of ocean floor.
