Week 1

Question 1

80% of woven fabrics manufactured are…

Answer 1

plain weave

Question 2

Advantages of plain weave

Answer 2

• Firmness
• Resistant to abrasion
• resistance to snagging
• easy to clean
• cheap to produce

Question 3

Disadvantages of plain weave

Answer 3

• wrinkle
• low in tear strength
• flat in appearance
• lacks visual

Question 4

Plain weave derivatives (Rib weave)

Answer 4

• unbalanced weave
• noticeable lines on fabrics surface
• 2 or more threads weave as 1 in either warp or weft
  direction.
• Normally use heavy yarns in 1 direction and fine
  yarns in other to exaggerate rib effect (e.g. poplin,
  taffeta, etc.)

Question 5

Plain weave derivatives (hopsack)

Answer 5

• constructed with two or more ends & picks interlacing identically to produce a checkered pattern
• Loosely woven, Decorative, Coarse visual effect

Question 6

Advantages of hopsack

Answer 6

• Appearance reversible
• Sheds wrinkles
• Loose, porous
• Flexible due to loose
  construction
• High tear strength

Question 7

Disadvantages of hopsack

Answer 7

• Yarn slippage
• Low dimensional stability
• Difficult to sew
• Snagging
• May shrink more during
  finishing process compare
  to 1/1 plain weave

Question 8

Twill weave characteristics

Answer 8

• Have distinguishable diagonal lines on surface of
  fabric
• Float: a yarn that crosses over more than one
  yarn at a time.

Fabric appearance
o Reclining diagonal line
o Regular diagonal line
o Steep diagonal line

Question 9

Types of twill weave

Answer 9

• R.h 2/2 twill (most common)
  In balanced cloth: 45 degree
• L.H. twill:
  • Steeper angled twills
  • More obtuse angled twills

Broken/pointed: diagonal line changes
direction in warp or weft direction)

Herringbone: even break in direction

Diamond: twill line broken in both warp
and weft direction

Question 10

Advantages of twill

Answer 10

• High tear strength
• hides dirt
• soft
• better wrinkle recoverability

Question 11

Disadvantages of twill

Answer 11

• pattern restrictions due to diagonal lines
• snagging
• definite right/wrong

Question 12

Satin / Sateen

Answer 12

• Warp (Weft) travels over four or more weft (warp) yarns
• Different types, identified by float length
  5 ends satin, 4 ends satin, 6 ends satin, etc.

Question 13

Satin

Answer 13

• warp floats hide weft yarns
• Normally use lustrous filament yarns with this structure
  to maximise light reflection.

Question 14

Sateen

Answer 14

• weft floats hide warp yarns

- normally uses natural staple fibre yarns

Question 15

Advantages of satin/sateen

Answer 15

• Lustrous
• Smooth surface
• Good drape/handle

Question 16

disadvantages of satin/sateen

Answer 16

• poor abrasion resistance
• Poor with snagging
• Not durable
• Can look greasy with time
• Expensive to produce

Question 17

Crepe fabrics

Answer 17

• usually made with highly twisted yarns
• ‘uniformly irregular’ in appearance; non-direction
  (interrupted surface)
• Rough/pebbly textured appearance
• good for stretch
• Identified by
  # ends per repeat unit

Question 18

Honeycombs

Answer 18

- The structure is formed by some ends and picks interlacing tighter 
than others. 
- The cellular formations appear square in the cloth.
- Identified by 
# ends per repeat unit
- 3D effect, due to areas of plain
weave and areas with floats
- Waffle-like
(e.g. tea towel)