Plant Selection & Maintenance Flashcards
Seasonal Displays
This normally refers to an area which is changed at least twice a year to provide colour via flowers or foliage for as much of the year as possible. It is often achieved by. planting annuals, bulbs and biennials that have been grown off-site until they are relatively close to flowering. Once the flowers have faded in a display the plants are replaced
Propagation 1. Direct sowing 2. Seed beds 3. Indoor sowing
PROPAGATION
1) Direct sowing i) Species that don’t like disturbance e.g. Clarkia, Gypsophila, Papaver. ii) Hardy annuals in general. iii) Half hardy annuals, where late flowering is acceptable.
2) Seedbeds Used almost exclusively for biennials. A nursery seedbed is prepared and the seed sown in drills in May-July. The rows are 30cm apart and the plants are thinned to 5cm/2” at the first true leaf stage. Transplanting to their final flowering position should be done in the autumn when they are 4-5cm/2” high, taking a soil ball with each plant.
3) Indoor Sowing i) Half hardy annuals for bedding out in late spring. ii) Hardy annuals for earlier flowering or where the final site is a particularly cold and wet one. iii) Tender perennials to be used in bedding schemes as half hardy annuals or removed at the end of the season e.g. Fuchsia, Pelargonium etc. iv) Any plants which are particularly vulnerable to slugs as seedlings, to get them to a larger size before planting out.
DIRECT SOWING
Larger areas and annual displays are often sown direct,
An annual border or area for a seasonal bedding display is prepared by clearing weeds and previous annual plants / debris. The soil is cultivated to produce a fine tilth and areas to be sown with different species are marked out, often with overlapping sections and either broadcast, station sown or in drills (below).
- Prepare the bed as before for sowing (friable, organic matter incorporated, even surface)
- Mark out a series of overlapping semi circles using silver sand, lime (?) or scoring the earth with a stick.
- In each semi-circle (one per species / cultivar), make a series of parallel drills. Ensure that the drills in adjacent semi circles are at different angles to each other.
- Sow, cover, firm and water.
- Ongoing maintenance: weeding, thinning and ‘gapping up’.
Planting out Annuals & Biennials
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1) Colour - one of the main reasons for growing annuals is to provide colour, either in a mass with many different colours or an area of a single colour.
2) Form and texture - a variety of shapes and sizes can add interest to a scheme: flowers can be large discs like sunflowers Helianthus annuus, bell-shaped like Petunia x hybrida, feathery plumes of Astilbe.
3) Block / Group Planting - plantings where there is a large area to cover. Blocks of a single species / cultivar are planted, quite often with other blocks of complementary colours and contrasting height and texture. Bedding displays.
4) Foliage Effects - can be used in a variety of ways: i) Colour - Silver / Grey is a very effective colour used in certain combinations. Senecio Candidans (a half-hardy perennial used as an annual) is most commonly used.
5) Seasonal Displays - 3 main display times: i) Winter-flowering: Pansies, Primulas. ii) Late Spring (Hardy biennials): Wallflowers (Erysimum cheiri ) Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus), Daisy (Bellis perennis), Viola. iii) Summer
6) Mixed Borders - areas containing a mixture of perennials, annuals, bulbs and shrubs give an informal, relaxed planting; nothing looks too rigid.
Planting out Annuals & Biennials
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7) Fillers - annuals are frequently used to fill in gaps in borders where plants have been removed or in the spaces around new plantings.
8) Climbers & Trailers - used particularly to quickly cover walls etc. with something colourful. Also, annual climbers are valuable where planting positions are limited ie. patios, and containers have to be used. Can also be used to scramble up other plants. Sweet Pea (Lathyrus odoratus), Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus),
9) Containers
10) Cutting & Drying - fresh flowers are easy but not perhaps as common as those from perennials or shrubs: Sunflower (Helianthus annuus), Baby’s breath (Gypsophila elegans),
11) Companion Plants - some annuals are especially good for attracting insects Pot Marigold (Calendula officinalis), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii) - both self-seeders, Cosmos bipinnatus, Phaecelia campanulata etc. Others are more specifically useful for encouraging or protecting crop plants e.g. Marigolds (Tagetes). Many others simply to give a more diverse habitat and colour among fruit and vegetables.
12) Annuals / Biennials to Self-seed - these include plants that would be found in meadows or corn fields like Poppies (Papaver rhoeas), etc. They are also used in mixed borders to naturally fill gaps year after year: Love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena),
Planting a Seasonal annual bedding display
Tropical (e.g. Canna, Cordyline, Ricinus) – used for a particular effect, such as bold colourful foliage.
Edging – often low, flowering annuals
Groundwork (infill) – medium-sized flowering plants.
Dot plant (Tobacco (Nicotiana affinis), Fuchsia – also tropical plants (above)) – individual, tall plants to provide height and possibly as a focal point.
Hanging basket
Procedure to make a hanging basket
Procedure to make a hanging basket
1) Sit the basket in a large pot to steady it.
2) Fit liner
3) If consisting of (semi) solid material, make holes.
4) If the liner is permeable, place a small sponge, saucer or disc of plastic inside at the bottom.
5) Half fill with compost.
6) Lie plugs of plants on the compost with the tops sticking through holes in the liner.
7) Fill up with compost.
8) Put in a central, upright plant and possibly add a small pot to water into.
9) Surround with low-growing plants, then trailing plants around the edge.
10) Hang in position.
11) Water.
Winter hanging basket plants
- Aubrieta deltoides*
- Hedera helix* ‘Glacier’ - Ivy
- Viola* ‘Northern lights’
- Cordyline australis*
- Erica carnea -* Heather
- Cupressus macrocarpa*
Herbaceous Perennial Plants
Herbaceous Border
i) Usually backed by a wall or hedge.
ii) Exclusively herbaceous perennials, traditionally summer and early-autumn flowering.
iii) Traditional borders are straight lines, with large blocks of single varieties.
iv) Informal borders have sinuous edges and plants are in drifts, flowing in to one another.
v) Plants are arranged in order of height front to back.
vi) Ground is bare all winter so, even though the root systems are still in place, nutrients will be subject to a certain amount of leaching. Not ideal in an organic system. Surface mulch could be used e.g. bark chips, leaves, haylage.
vii) It is advisable to have a path running at the back of the border for ease of maintenance, reduced competition with a hedge or dryness with a wall and access.
viii) Spacing should be about 5 plants per sq. metre, but varying from this depending on the vigour and size of the species.
ix) Plants should be put in in 3’s, or larger odd numbers.
Mixed Border
A mixture of Annuals, Biennials, Bulbs, Shrubs and Perennials.
i) Any size and shape of planting area.
ii) Colour and interest potentially present all year round.
iii) Less maintenance required, the more shrubs that are present.
iv) The right balance of year round interest may be achieved using shrubs as a third to a half of the planting, including a good selection of evergreens.
Cottage Gardens - A mixture of plants including not only those in a mixed border, but herbs, fruit and vegetables too, the whole planting being typified by certain classic perennials: Pinks, Peonies, Lupins, Delphiniums etc. Also unusual varieties of wild flowers. The whole effect is a rambling jumble of plants intermingling, a combination of the productive and ornamental.
Maintenance of herbaceous plants
Weeding - Some ‘weeds’ are fine to leave but generally, a garden is planted with certain species in mind, the qualities of which outweigh those of the weed.
Watering is essential after planting and in the following few weeks if necessary.
Dead heading Improves the appearance and increases flowering period.
Mulching to retain moisture, reduce weeds, improve and feed soil.
Staking Preferably done using a number of stakes and before they are required
Division many perennials begin to deteriorate over a number of years and division / renewal is necessary.
Summer hanging basket plants
- Lobelia erinus* ‘Fountain white’
- Petunia* ‘Nights sky’
- Antirrhinum majus* ‘Day & Night’
- Fuchsia* ‘Deep purple’
- Pelargonium* ‘White Glory’
Hanging basket materials
Basket (Wire, plastic mesh, solid plastic, slatted wood, woven willow)
Liner (Pressed coco fibre, moss, plastic, Jute liner)
Compost (Soil-less / organic)
Additives (Fertilizers: F,B&B, Osmacote. Water retainers: gels)
Plants (Mainly trailing plants plus central upright)
Obtainable forms of trees & Shrubs
Root balled +ve Less root disturbance -ve Peripheral roots lost.
Bare Root +ve Cheapest -ve dormant only
Containerised +ve Avaiable all year -ve Certain species only.
Conatiner grown +ve no root disturbance -ve expensive, waste.
Trees - sizes & shapes
One year whip = 6-8cm G & 2.4-2.75m H
Standard = 8-10cm G & 2.75-3.0m H
Selected standard = 10-12cm G & 3.0-3.5m H
Heavy standard = 12-14cm G & 3.5-4.25m H
Extra heavy standard = 14-16cm G & 4.25-5.0m H
Round, Spreading, Fastigate, Conical, Weeping, Prostrate.
Planting Trees / Shrubs
- Make sure the tree is being planted in the correct place according to any plans. Is the space big enough?
- Write a risk assessment or at least talk through the job with colleagues.
- Keep all of the plant’s roots damp at all times.
- Soak the root ball thoroughly.
- Collect tools and equipment.
- Dig hole. Straight sides and deep enough to place turf upside down in the bottom of the hole. Scarify the sides of the hole.
- Offer the plant to the hole and make adjustments to the hole rather than cutting roots (unless they are damaged).
- Mix well rotted compost (and a fertilizer?) with the soil ready for to back fill.
- Place turf in the bottom of the hole and chop up.
- Prune any of the dead, damaged or diseased branches.
- Make sure the tree is being planted at the same depth it came out of the ground.
- For a bare rooted plant, knock in a short stake vertically. Arrange the roots around it and tie it at the correct height.
- Use a stick laid across the hole to make sure the tree is being planted at the correct depth.
- Fill the hole with the soil and compost, ensure the roots are in close contact with the soil and there are no air pockets. Use your feet to firm the soil as you go without using your full weight.
- A stake can be knocked in at an angle, usually with container grown trees after planting.
- Water the tree well even when the soil is wet.
- Guard the tree from large pests if necessary.
- Mulch the tree with compost on a weed-free surface, about 1m diameter.
Planting climbers
Planting climbers against a fence: follow the tree/shrub procedure.
Planting climbers against a wall: The planting hole should be a minimum of 30cm (12”) away from the base of the wall, with 45cm (18”) preferable. Retaining the support cane, the plant should be angled up to the support structure on the wall at 45°. Trellis (heavy duty type is most successful) can be attached to a wall using spacer blocks of wood to allow a 2.5cm (1”) gap. This is for air movement. Wires can be attached to a wall using vine eyes spaced 1.5-1.8m (5-6’) apart horizontally, 45-60cm (18-24”) below one another.
Netting can be used for light or non-permanent climbers like sweet peas.
Planting hedges
Plant bare root plants in the dormant season November to March. Plant evergreens in October or, preferably, April.
- Mark out site of hedge using string lines, minimum of 60cm wide.
- Clear the strip of any perennial weeds by digging.
- Dig a trench of 30cm wide by 30cm deep.
- Put the plants in at the appropriate spacing. Native hedges can have double, staggered rows of bare root plants.
- Back fill the trench including organic matter. Adjust plant heights in the process and firm in.
- Mulch min. 5cm.
- Prune immediately after planting.
Spacing of plants depends on the species, growth rate and ultimate size of the hedge. For example, Yew 60cm, Box 30cm, Leylandii 60-90cm.
Pruning woody shrubs
Reasons for pruning
- 3 Ds – dead, diseased, damaged
- To create a shape e.g. hedges
- To increase air movement / remove congestion
- To promote new, vigorous growth
- To remove suckers
- To remove reverted growth
- To restrict the size of the plant
When and Which Parts Should be Removed? Firstly, decide if flowers are a priority. Formal hedges will rarely have flowers and they will be cut a number of times throughout the growing season with little regard to blossom. Some shrubs are grown for their stems or leaves rather than their flowers and are often coppiced / pollarded in early spring. For example, Cornus alba (stems) and Cotinus coggygria ‘Royal Purple’ (leaves).
To ensure that flowering shrubs continue to produce an annual display, pruning should take into consideration the following generalised rules:
If flowering is after midsummer, prune in early spring e.g. February.
If flowering is before midsummer, prune after flowering.
These are taking into account the wood on which flowers are formed. For example, spring flowering plants often flower on wood produced the previous year, so pruning is after flowering. There is then enough time to produce new growth that can ripen before the winter.
There are exceptions like Hydrangea macrophylla, which flowers on the old wood but not until after midsummer. In this case, in spring, dead heading and the removal of a few old pieces (>3 yrs old) is best.
When flowers are borne on new growth it makes sense to prune hard early in the year to promote lots of young shoots to flower later in the year e.g. Buddleja davidii, Ceanothus ‘Gloire de Versailles’.
How Much Should be Removed? Often pruning is used to remove old, flowered stems and these should be taken out as low as possible. To correct an unbalanced shape, vigorous shoots should be lightly pruned, weak growth hard pruned.
Hedges - Following planting, most hedging plants should be pruned to encourage bushiness and thickening up: about 1/3 of the leaders and strong laterals should be removed.
Species with strong upward growth like Ligustrum (Privet) and Crataegus (Hawthorn) should be cut back harder (down to 15-30cm) to ensure branches fill out low down.
Informal hedges are often pruned after flowering (or after fruiting if grown for berries). Formal hedges are trimmed 1, 2 or 3 times a year: Fagus sylvatica is cut once in late summer, xCuprocyparis leylandii up to 3 times during the growing season.
Hedges should be shaped with sloping sides, wider at the base narrower at the top, to give better light distribution. In areas of heavy snowfall, the tops should be pointed, not flat.
Lawn P&D
Fairy ring = ring of grey/brown mushrooms. Dead or dying grass in ring. Excavate and replace.
Leatherjackets = Crane fly lave, Lawns develop patches where the grasses turns yellowish brown and often dies, look under grass to find lave. pathogenic nematodes in Aug-Sep.
Moles = heaps of excavated soil thrown up on the surface of lawns and flower beds. treated as part of the biodiversity. mole netting under grass. Pest-Stop Biofume Mole Smoke, other non-lethal trap. Feb - Jun
Fusarium patch = also called snow mould, is a common cause of brown patches on lawns, particularly in autumn or during mild spells in winter. Fungus disease. air flow, and drainage. Provanto Lawn Disease Control. Sept - Feb.
