Coastal processes Flashcards

1
Q

How are waves formed?

A

friction of winds blowing across sea.

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2
Q

What is fetch?

A

distance a wave travles before reaching a coastline.

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3
Q

What is backwash?

A

Action of water going down a beach

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4
Q

What is swash?

A

Action of water going up a beach.

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5
Q

What is mass movement?

A

shif of rock and loose material down a slope.

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6
Q

What are the three mass movements?

A

Slides, slumps, rockfalls.

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7
Q

Describe process of mass movement? 3 steps

A

slides- material shifts staright line

slumps- materail shift with rotation

rockfalls- material break up and falls down slope.

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8
Q

What causes mass movement to happen?

A

Force of gravity acting on slope is higher that force supporting it.

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9
Q

When is mass movement more likely to happen?

A

when the material is full of water and acts as a lubricant.

material is heavier.

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10
Q

What is weathering?

A

breakdown of rocks where they are

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11
Q

What is erosion?

A

breakdown of rocks that is carried away by seas,

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12
Q

What is mechanical weathering?

A

breakdown of rocks wwithout loosing it’s chemical composition

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13
Q

Describe freeze thaw.

A

Temperatures alternate between 0 degrees and above.

water gets into rocks and expans apppying pressure on rock

water thaws and releases pressure from rock

repeated thaw and freezing widens crack causing rock to break.

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14
Q

What is chemcial weathering?

A

breakdown of rocks by changing it’s chemical composition.

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15
Q

Describe carbonation weathering?

A

Rainwater contains carbon dioxide dissolved in it- carbonic acid.

rainwater reacts with rock containing calcium carbonate (limestone)

Rocks are dissolved by rainwater.

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16
Q

What is abbrasion?

A

Rocks are scraped along riverbed

17
Q

What is attrition?

A

Rocks and pebbles break up as they crash into one another.

18
Q

What is hydraulic action?

A

Water traps air in cracks of rock forcing to break apart.

19
Q

What is soution?

A

chemicals in water dissolve rock

20
Q

What is traction?

A

rolled along a river bed.

21
Q

What is saltation?

A

Material is bounced along river bed

22
Q

What is suspension?

A

fine particles held in water.

23
Q

What is long shore drift?

A

Movement of materail along coast by waves.

24
Q

What is transportation?

A

movement of material

25
Q

What is deposition?

A

when water looses energy and drops what it is carrying.

26
Q

What is corrosoion?

A

material dissovled in water

27
Q

What is hard engineering?

A

Man made structures use to control flow of sea and erosion. Reduce flooding.

28
Q

What is soft engineering?

A

Schemes set up using knowledge of sea to reduce effects of flooding and erosion.

29
Q

Examples of hard engineering?

A

groynes- wooden/stone fences that trap material by longshore drift.
slow down waves giving protection from flooding and erosion.
cheap

Sea wall- concrete wall, stop erosion/flooding asborb energy wave- cheap

need to be replaced- moved by strong waves.

Gabions- wall of wire cages filled with rocks
asborb wave energy reduce erosion.
cheap and easy to build.
ugly-corrode

Rock armour- builders -piled up along coast
absorb wave energy reduce erosion/flooding
can be moved around by waves -replacement
cheap

30
Q

Examples of soft engineering?

A

Beach nourishment- sand and shingle added to upper part of beach from elsewhere

widens beach-slow down waves which protects from flooding and erosion.

takes material away from sea bed kills microorgamism such as coral and sponges
expensive needs to be repeated.

Dune regeneration- regenerates sand dunes by planting vegetation

barrier -absorbs wave energy- reducing flood and erosion.

expensive and limited to a small area.