Portugal Flashcards

1
Q

What is the mnemonic for Portugal’s principal wine regions?

A

Vinny & Dora Do Business As Limited Partners Terribly

VI nho Verde
DO uro
DA o
BA irrada
AL entejo
LI sboa
PE ninsula de Setúbal
TE jo

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2
Q

What are the appellation laws and regulations of Portugal?

A

Portugal follows a PDO & PGI system as follows:

DOC/DOP - Denominação de Origem Controlada/Protegida = PDO

  • 31DOC’s with own regluations on grape growing, winemaking and
  • All wines must be officially tested, tasted and approved

VR - Vinho Regional = PGI

  • 14 VR’s with less stringent laws than PDO’s.
  • Often permit international varieites and wider selection of varieties in general

Vinho - Term used for wines that are neither DOC or VR

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3
Q

Describe the growing environment in Vinho Verde DOC

A
  • NW corner with Atlantic to west; River Minho/border w/Spain to north; mountains to east and River Douro to south.
  • Moderate maritime climate, and network of river valleys funnel Altantic winds inland.
  • Land rises to east where soils become poorer and climate more continental; warmer, drier subregions eg Baião & Monção e Melgaço, are good for late ripening varieties, esp Alvarinho).
  • High rain, 1500mm; vintage variation can be marked and affect ripening and yields.
  • Vyards mainly on granitic bedrock w/shallow topsoil of decomposed granite (sandy, good drainage) having low fertility making fertilisers common
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4
Q

Describe grape growing in Vinho Verde DOC

A
  • Rainfall throughout year = high fungal pressure so air circulation is critical; most modern vyards are VSP trellised (Guyot or lyre), trained high from the ground for air circulation.
  • Summer pruning for vigorous varieties (lateral shoots, leaves, green harvesting) enhances ripening and aids air circulation.
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5
Q

What are the key grape varieties in Vinho Verde DOC?

A
  1. Loureiro - MPV; mid-ripening, citrus/pear/herbal/floral; med+ acidity
  2. Alvarinho - 2nd MPV; late-ripening (so fuller body/higher alc); citrus/peach/tropical/herbal
  3. Pederña - 3rd MPV (aka Arinto); mid-ripening, neutral wines w/subtle citrus/apple & high acidity
  4. Avesso - late-ripening (needs warm/dry to ripen fully); full-bodied citrus/stone, grown in warmer, drier south
  5. Trajadura - low acidity, apple/peach blended w/higher acid varieties
  6. Vinhão (aka Sousão/Sousón) MPV black; deep colored w/cherry, noted for high acidity
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6
Q

Comment on winemaking and wine law in Vinho Verde DOC

A
  • Hi-vol, inexpensive wines use fruit sourced across the DOC and are blends. Made protectively and most bottled for early release, often w/CO2 injected beforehand. These wines are low alc, med+/high acidity, apple/citrus/peach depending on blend; some have rs. Usually good, made by co-ops or large merchants.
  • Higher priced, very good quality wines are mainly from small producers and can be single-varietal or single subregion; ambient/vs cultured yeast; old oak ferm/mat, lees, etc for complexity & texture. A subregion may appear on label but these wines must have min 9% abv (vs 8% without).
  • Single varietal Alvarinho wines from Monção e Melgaço have lower max yields, min abv 11.5% and only this subregion in the DOC can mention Alvarinho as single variety. Other subregions can only include Alvarinho on label if it is min 30% of the blend.
  • Producers outside Monção e Melgaço can label single varietal Alvarhinho only if they declassify to VR (Minho VR).
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7
Q

Comment on wine business in Vinho Verde DOC

A
  • Ownership very fragmented; on average every grower owns less than 1/10th ha(!) and most deliver to co-ops, large merchants.
  • 400 growers bottle their own wines.
  • Significant producers are Anselmo Mendes, Quinta de Soalheiro.
  • Exports growing gradually (2019 35% of production)
  • Key markets: By volume, Germany, USA, Brazil, France (USA leads in terms of value)
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8
Q

Describe the growing environment of the Douro DOC

A
  • Runs west to east along Douro River, from Spanish border to Mesão Frio;
  • sheltered by Serra do Marão (1415 m) from Atlantic influence, hence, PDO has warm cont’l climate but as in any river valley w/tributaries, a range of slopes, aspects, microclimates so site selection is important.
  • There are 3 subregions (east to west):

Douro Superior - hot, arid (450mm/yr)
Cima Corgo - warmer, drier (700mm/yr)
Baixo Corgo - coolest, wettest (900mm/yr)

  • Soil is stony, decomposed schist above schist bedrock which fractures vertically allowing roots to penetrate deeply; important b/c no irrigation set up and area is drought-prone.

Layouts same as for Port - socalcos, patamares, vinha ao alto

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9
Q

Describe grape/grape growing in Douro DOC

A
  • Wines usually blended from range of sites; there are some single-vineyard tho’ but producers seek ripe but not overripe grapes and site blending can achieve year over year despite variances in weather. Single varietal are very rare.

Black Grapes:

  • Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão, Sousão
  • Touriga Franca (high color/tannin, black/floral) & Touriga Nacional (med body/alc; red/black/flora) are typical lead grapes b/c ripe but not jammy fruit and retain acidity

White Grapes

  • Viosinho (full body, floral/stone, can lack acidity), Rabigato (high acidity, citrus/floral); Goudeio (med+ acidity, citrus/stone); Moscatel Galego Blanco, gen’ly planted at highest altitudes to retain acidity.
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10
Q

Describe winemaking in the Douro DOC

A
  • Grapes usu. destemmed b/c very high tannins in Douro varieties.
  • Temp controlled st steel. Low temp for reds (24-28C) to control extraction. Some use % crushed & fermented in lagares as these facilitate monitoring extraction b/c open.
  • Early drinking wines are drained off the skins while premium wines made for ageing will undergo post-ferm maceration to extract, soften tannins.
  • Maturation: Trad’l = large barrels of Portuguese oak. Modern = French oak, barriques, with trend to bigger for less oak to highlight fruit.
  • White wines, 2 styles: Early drinking = st steel, cool ferm, cultured yeast bottled for early release. Premium = old vine grapes, ferm/mature in new/old oak.

White grapes: Viosinho, Rabigato, Goudeio, Mosc Galego Branco.

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11
Q

Comment on wine business in The Douro DOC

A
  • Still wine is 30% of production in the DOC, growing steadily. VR Duriense production is less than the DOC but is an option for using int’l varieties.
  • Large choice of premium wines, many named, single quinta. Best known Port producers make a range of still w/top wines from estates or parcels earmarked for still.
  • Inexpensive, hi-vol wines use grapes from several quintas (some owned by growers), usu made by co-op (23 in the DOC)
  • Benefício generates an artificially low price for table wine as does oversupply. This gives entry-level Douro wines a price advantage
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12
Q

Describe the growing environment of Dão DOC

A
  • DOC is inland; Vinho Verde to N & Bairrada to S. Surrounded by mountains, protected from Atlantic infl. to west and warm, arid conditions to east and south.
  • Medit. climate (warm, dry summers, mild winters), high rainfall 1600mm/yr west, 1100mm/yr east, in autumn and winter.
  • Mixed topography = range of alt/aspects, w/most vyards 400-500m = high diurnal.
  • Free draining sandy/loamy/DG, low-nutrient soil controls vigor but hydric stress during ripening is an issue.
  • Hail (summer), spring frost in flat/low laying prone to cold mountain air descending.
  • Gentle slopes. Bush vines traditional, most modern VSP trellised, 1 or 2 guyot.
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13
Q

Describe grape varieties and winemaking in the Dão DOC

A

80% of production is red wine from:

  • Touriga Naçional: Deep color, high tannin & acidity black/floral/herbal
  • Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo in Spain): early-ripen, deep color, med tannins, full body
  • Jaen/Mencia: Med acidity rasp/blackberry
  • Alfrocheiro: Med tannin & body, straw/blackberry
  • Trad’l: High extraction but astringent. Now: shorter maceration w/oak age (trend is lower % new oak); lighter style than Douro; good to outstanding and mid to prem/super prem
  • Encruzado is key white for high quality wines; med+ acidity, full bodied wines w/lemon/peach/floral. Made protectively for fresher style vs oak aged for complex, ageworthy wines. Good to v. good; some outstanding

Other whites: Malvasia Fina, Bical, Cercial

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14
Q

Why are red wines in the Dão DOC less full-bodied and intense than those in the Douro DOC?

A
  1. Grape Varieties: Douro wines are blends based on T. Nacional & T Franca, both highly tannic and in Douro’s climate, both with high potential alcohol while Dão’s wines are blends based on T Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Jaen, and Alfrocheiro, grapes that generally make wines with more elegance and aromatic complexity.
  2. Climate: Douro hotter & dryer; Dão cooler & wetter so grapes retain more acidity while ripening & wines are more elegant.
  3. Soils: Douro soils are schist, which retain heat and radiate it back at night, elongating the ripening hours so wines will feature riper, more intense fruit. Dão soils are granitic, which also retains heat during the day but loses it at night, allowing grapes to preserve more acidity, so wines will be more textured, structured and elegant.
  4. Winemaking: T. Franca & T. Nacional, the 2 lead varieties for Douro wines give deep color, ripe concentrated fruit and have high tannins, therefore destemming and cooler fermentation or using lagares all help control tannin extraction. Dao wines include Jaen & Alfrocheiro, both of which lighten and soften the wines.
  5. Maturation Douro wines are more commonly matured in 225 L barriques, adding complexity, while in Dão, short maceration in oak is more common to highlight fruit.
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15
Q

Comment on wine business in Dão DOC

A
  • Highly fragmented: >90% of 30K growers own <0.5 ha.
  • Sogrape now leads in making higher quality wines at all price points (vs co-ops under old legislation that favored them)
  • Growing number of quality-focused private companies making premium wines, including young winemakers attracted by the DOC’s potential.
  • Only 15-20% production is exported (Canada, Brazil, USA, China)
  • Significant producers: Vinha Paz, Quinta de Pellada
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16
Q

What is the growing environment and grape growing like in Bairrada DOC?

A
  • The DOC is west of Dão along the coast btwn Vinho Verde DOC and Lisboa VR, which means it has a maritime climate w/800-1200mm/yr rain, in spring & autumn - not good for late-ripeners like Baga.
  • Fertile alluvial soils in the west and limestone-clay slopes, favored for Baga esp’ly in Cantanhede in warmer south.
  • Vyards trad’ly planted to high-trained & staked bush vines; recent plantings are VSP trellised w/Guyot.
17
Q

Describe the red grape varieties in Bairrada DOC

A
  • Red wines are ~66% of production & Baga is the MPV black. Late ripener and vigorous = site selection & limiting yield for full ripeness (i.e., south facing aspect, protected by cool windes from north).
  • Ripens best on clay-limestone soils bc some water retention, needed for long ripening period plus good drainage to help control vigour. Also, soils are light, esp’ly in Cantanhede, which reflect light & aid ripening.
  • Green harvesting also aids complete ripening.
  • Baga has high acidity & tannins, med body, cranberry/cherry/plum

Baga is the main grape for Mateus Rosé.

18
Q

Describe red winemaking and wine styles of Bairrada DOC

A
  1. Grapes - Stem inclusion for trad’l Baga but req’d long ageing. Modern style destemmed, with % stems for structure or whole bunch for fresh fruit/aromas added back.
  2. Fermentation - St Steel, concrete vats, lagares.
  3. Maturation - Common: large barrels (500-650L) French oak. Trad’l: Large toneis (Portuguese oak or Brazilian hardwood. Others: Foudres of French, Italian or Austrian oak.
  4. Blending - DOC allows local and int’l varieties (e.g., Cab Sauv & Merlot do well) which are often blended w/Baga to soften tannin profile and add body.
19
Q

Describe white grape varieties and winemaking in Bairrada DOC

A
  • M. Gomes: MPV white; early ripener (good in damp climate) and high yielding w/citrus/floral aromas; Bical: Early ripener, peach/tropical fruit. Both have med+ acidity IF picked early; lose it quickly if left on vine.
  • Arinto & Cercial: both have apple/citrus flavs and are used in blends to add acidity.
  • Int’l varieties are allowed incl. Sauv B, Chardonnay.
  • Inexpensive wines: Sourced from vyards w/sandy soils; cool ferm in st steel, bottle soon.
  • Mid- to prem wines: Sourced from vyards w/clay-limestone, fermented & matured for short time in oak.
  • Quality is generally good; some v. good.
  • Quinta das Bágeiras, Filipa Pato & Wm Wouters

Bairrada is lead producer of tradl’l method sparkling wines, 10% of prod

20
Q

Comment on the wine business in Bairrada DOC

A
  • 2K growers; co-ops & merchants common.
  • “Baga Friends”, small producer group, promote high quality wines of 100% Baga.
  • Beira Atlântico VR boundaries extend beyond the DOC and can be used to label wines from producers w/vyards outside DOC
  • Some prods (Luis Pato, Filipa Pat) use VR label b/c object to inclusion of int’l varieties.
21
Q

Describe the growing environment and grape growing of Alentejo DOC

A
  • SE Portugal, 8 non-contiguous subregions.
  • Medit. climate (hot, dry summer; warm winter), w/500mm in south to 800mm in north (fall & winter); irrigation widely used b/c long periods w/out rain.
  • Plains and gentle slopes, some mountains N & S; mix of soils: granite, schist and limestone; sand to clay.
  • most vyards trellised VSP double cordon, replacing Guyot b/c it req. skilled labor and it is sparsely populated.
  • 8 subregions w/microclimates, soils. Northern less dry & hot. Portalegre planted over 800m asl so coolest in the DOC w/small holdings (vs large everywhere else) & old field blend vyards (vs modern monoculture w/VSP).
22
Q

Describe the black grape varieties and winemaking in Alentejo DOC

A
  • Wide range permitted; blends dominate
  • Black are 75% of plantings w/Aragonez (aka Tinta Roriz/Tempranillo), Alicante Bouschet & Trincadeira as common blend. Aragonez is early ripener so in this DOC harvest time and/or cooler site or overripe. A Bouschet adds color, acid, tannin, red & blackberry. Of int’l varieties, Syrah most commonly used.
  • Inexpensive fruit/early to super prem structured, ageworthy w/concentrated fruit w/oak spice e.g Cartuxa, Mouchão.
23
Q

Describe the white grape varieties and winemaking in Alentejo DOC

A
  • Roupeiro is MPV white; retains acidity and is susceptible to rot so does well in warm/dry climate. Has citrus/stone in youth but loses 1ary quickly w/age.
  • Arinto (Pedernã in Vinho Verde) used in blends b/c retains acidity.
  • Antão Vaz is drought tolerant, well-suited. Made in range of styles: Early picked fresh to later picked (for tropical fruit) barrel ferm’d & fuller bodied, oaked style and talha wines. Can lose acidity so sometimes blended w/other 2.
  • Int’l: Chardonnay, Viognier permitted among others w/increasing Alvarinho.
  • Quality of white wines is good to v good, inexp to mid.
24
Q

Comment of the wine business of Alentejo DOC

A
  • Largest sales in Portugal than any other DOC, 37% by vol, 40% by value (and 20% of exports: Brazil, Angola, USA, Switzerland, Canada)
  • DOC production increasing, the reverse trend of other DOC’s. Alentejan VR also increasing.
  • Unlike other DOCs, larger land holdings and climate & topography well suited to cost-effective, hi-vol, mechanized viticulture (made possible w/EU funding).
  • 1995 45 prods 13,500 ha; 2019 285 prods, 22,000 ha. Vyards mostly young and sizable.
  • Proximity to Lisbon, so wine tourism is strong focus. Some estates have designer wineries w/large cellar doors selling other products like olive oil, Iberian ham etc., pioneered by José Roquette of Esporão and Joãn Portugal Ramos.
25
Q

Describe the growing environment of Lisboa VR

A
  • From Lisbon at south end to north 150km/90mi.
  • Coastal range (S. de Montejuno) splits it into 2 areas:
  • West along coast (wet, strong wind, clay-limestone, suited to lighter styles), e.g., Colares, Carcavelos
  • East (protected; suited to riper, full-bod wines), e.g., Alenquer, Bucelas.
26
Q

Describe grape growing and winemaking in Lisboa VR

A
  • Wide range of local and int’l varieties permitted in both the VR and DOC’s.
  • T. Nacional, Aragonez (black) and Arinto most promising local varieties.
  • Syrah, Cab Sauv, P. Noir, Sauv B & Riesling are popular int’l varieites.
  • Region is still evolving after accession to EU
  • Alenquer & Bucelas (eastern) are best known, making red and white (Arinto must be 75% min), respectively, from local varities (above), all good to v. good, inexp to mid-price.
  • Colares & Carcavelos (coastal) are historical, w/Colares of special interest b/c ungrafted, old bush vines on deep sandy (ergo no phylloxera) soils, w/foggy climate for fresh, high acidity red & whites from local but rarely seen grapes.
27
Q

Comment on the wine business in Lisboa VR

A
  • Majority of prod. is from the VR b/c history of inexpensive wines for sale to colonies; much is sold without a GI
  • 9 DOC’s but most prods use the VR b/c flexible and “Lisboa” name has more recognition than the small DOC’s. For example, prod decreased in DOC’s from 2017 to 2018 but increased in the VR in those same years.
  • As region evolves, more wines certifying DOC or VR.
  • Casa Santos Lima is producer of 40% of wine certified (inexp to mid price, private label for retailers).
28
Q

Describe the growing environment of Peninsula de Setúbal VR

A
  • Between the estuaries of the Tejo and Sado rivers.
  • Mediterranean climate (hot, dry summer; mild, wet winter).
  • Mountains to south provide alt and clay-limestone for cooler sites.
29
Q

Describe grape growing and winemaking in Peninsula de Setúbal VR

A
  • 2 DOC’s: Palmela DOC and Setúbal DOC, w/latter known for sweet, fortified Moscatel wines.
  • Palmela DOC produces reds, min 67% Castalão, that are deep color, full body, red berry, often in oak for spice. For concentrated, ageworthy wines Castelão is grown on sandy plains and on cooler limestone slopes for light, early-drinking wines.
  • Range of local and int’l red varieties also permitted w/Syrah & Cab Sauv well-suited to limestone slopes.
  • Whites mainly from Fernão Pires, Moscatel, Arinto; large range also permitted.
  • Wines are good with some very good & mid-priced.
30
Q

Comment on the wine business in Peninsula de Setúbal VR

A
  • Production of still wines decreased from 2018 (171K hL) to 2017 (217K hL)
  • Two large producers drive innnovation and modernisation: Jose María de Fonseca (Lancers, Periquita brands) and Bacalhôa Vinhos.
31
Q

Describe the growing environment, grape growing and winemaking of Tejo DOC/VR

A
  • Inland from Lisboa; Tejo river runs through it.
  • Prior to EU, hi vol, inexp produced from fertile riverbanks that provide high yields. After, many dug up and new plantings on less fertile soils to N and S.
  • Medit. climate w/adequate (750 mm) rain in winter.
  • Variances dep. on location: N = higher rain, clay-limestone & schist; produces reds. Alluvial soil around river mainly produces whites but vigour must be managed. S = dryer, hotter, poor sandy soils; produces both reds and whites.
  • DOC & VR allow range of local and int’l vars. Reds: Trincadeira, Aragonez, T. Nacional, Syrah & Cab Sauv. Whites: F. Pires, Arinto, Alvarinho, Sauv B Chard.
  • Majority of wines are fruity for early drinking, acceptable to good, inexp to mid-priced but higher quality prem-priced beginning to be produced.
  • Quinta da Alorna; Fiuza & Bright