Coastal Systems And Landscapes Defitions Flashcards

1
Q

What is an emergent coast

A

A coastline that is advancing relative to the sea level at the time

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2
Q

What is a Dalmatian coast

A

A concordant coastline with several river valleys running perpendicularly to the coast

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3
Q

What is abrasion

A

A form of erosion where loose material ‘sandpapers’ the walls and floors of the river, cliff

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4
Q

What is backshore

A

The upper beach closest to the land, including any cliffs or sand dunes.

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5
Q

What is beach morphology

A

The surface shape of the beach.

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6
Q

What is Coastal Recession

A

The retreat of a coastline due to erosion,sea-level rise or submergence.

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7
Q

What is a concordant coast

A
  • A coastline where bands of alternate geology run parallel to the coast.
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8
Q

What is corrasion

A

A form of erosion when breaking waves fling material (rocks, sediment, shells. etc) at a cliff face, physically knocking off material.

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9
Q

Discordant Coast

A

A coastline where bands of alternate geology run perpendicular to the shore.

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10
Q

What is Dynamic Equilibrium

A
  • Where a natural system tries to achieve a balance by making constant
    changes in response to a constantly changing system.
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11
Q

What is Eustatic ​

A

Eustatic ​- Global changes to sea levels.

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12
Q

What is the Fetch of a wave

A

The distance the wave travels before it reaches the coastline. Distance to the nearest land mass in the direction in which the wave travels

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13
Q

What is a Fjord ​

A

Long narrow inlet deeper in the middle section than at the mouth, created when sea levels rise relative to the land, flooding coastal glacial valleys

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14
Q

What is freeze thaw weathering

A

Freeze Thaw ​- A form of physical sub-aerial weathering where water freezes in the cracks of a rock, expands and enlarges the crack, therefore weakens the rock.

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15
Q

What is the definition of geology

A

Geology​ - The structure and arrangement of a rock

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16
Q

What is a high-energy environment

A

High-energy Environment​ - A coast where wave action is predominantly large destructive waves, causing much erosion.

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17
Q

What is hydraulic action

A

Hydraulic Action​ - The pressure of compressed air forced into cracks in a rock face will cause the rock to weaken and break apart.

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18
Q

What is an integrated costal zone management (ICZM)

A

Integrated Coastal Zone Management (ICZM) ​- Large sections of coastline (often sediment cells) are managed with one integrated strategy and management occurs between different political boundaries.

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19
Q

What is impermeable

A

Impermeable​ - A rock that does not allow rainwater to pass through.

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20
Q

What is isostatic

A

Isostatic​ - A change in local coastline or land height relative to sea level.

21
Q

What is a littoral cell

A

Littoral Cell​ - A section of the coast, within which involves much sediment movement. A littoral cell is not a closed system

22
Q

What is longshore drift

A

Longshore Drift​ - The transportation of sediment along a beach. Longshore Drift is determined by the direction of the prevailing wind.

23
Q

What is a low-energy environment

A

Low-energy Environment​ - A coast where wave action is predominantly small constructive waves, causing deposition and leading to beach accretion.

24
Q

What is mass movement

A

Mass Movement ​- The falling or movement of rock, often due to Gravity.

25
Q

What is permeable

A

Permeable​ - A rock that allows rainwater to pass through it.

26
Q

What is a ria

A

Ria​ - Narrow winding inlet which is deepest at the mouth, formed when sea levels rise causing coastal valleys to flood.

27
Q

What is saltation

A

Saltation​ - Smaller sediment bounces along the sea bed, being pushed by currents.The sediment is too heavy to be picked up by the flow of the water.

28
Q

Sediment cell

A

Sediment Cell ​- Sections of the coast bordered by prominent headlands. Within these sections, the movement of sediment is almost contained and the flows of sediment should act in dynamic equilibrium.

29
Q

What is a sediment budget

A

Sediment Budget ​- Use data of inputs, outputs, stores and transfers to assess the gains and losses of sediment within a sediment cell.

30
Q

What are subaerial processes

A

Subaerial Processes​ - The combination of mass movement and weathering that affects the coastal land above sea.

31
Q

What is a submergent coast

A

Submergent Coast​ - A coast that is sinking relative to the sea level of the time.

32
Q

What is wave quarrying

A

Wave Quarrying​ - When air is trapped and compressed against a cliff which causes rock fragments to break off the cliff over time.

33
Q

What are the 3 main inputs

A

Marine: ​Waves, Tides, Salt Spray

Atmosphere:​ ​Sun, Air Pressure, Wind Speed and Direction

Humans:​ ​Pollution, Recreation, Settlement, Defences

34
Q

What are a few examples of outputs

A

Ocean currents
Rip tides
Sediment transfer
Evaporation

35
Q

What are some examples of stores/sinks

A

Beaches
● Sand Dunes● Spits● Bars and Tombolos● Headlands and Bays● Nearshore Sediment● Cliffs● Wave-cut Notches● Wave-cut Platforms● Caves● Arches● Stacks● Stumps● Salt Marshes● Tidal Flats● Offshore Bands and Bars

36
Q

What are some transfers/flows

A

Wind-blown sand
● Mass-movement processes
● Longshore drift
● Weathering
● Erosion
○ Hydraulic Action○ Corrosion○ Attrition○ Abrasion

● Transportation
○ Bedload○ In suspension○ Traction○ In solution● Deposition○ Gravity Settling○ Flocculation

37
Q

What is negative feedback

A

When the system goes back to dynamic equilibrium

38
Q

What is the negative feedback loop

A

Negative feedback loop​ - this ​lessens​ any change which has occured within the system.

39
Q

What is the positive feedback loop

A

Positive feedback loop​ - this exaggerates the change making the system ​more unstable​ and taking it away from dynamic equilibrium:

40
Q

What are the 6 examples of sediment sources

A

Rivers, cliff erosion, wind, glaciers, offshore, long shore drift

41
Q

What is a sediment budget

A

They use ​data of inputs, outputs, stores and transfers to assess the ​gains and losses of sediment within a sediment cell​.

42
Q

What is the littoral zone

A

The littoral zone is the area of land between the ​cliff’s or dunes on the coast and the offshore area that is beyond the influence of the waves​.

43
Q

Why does the littoral zone change in the long and short term

A

Short-term factors​ like tides and storm surges
● Long-term factors​ like changes in sea level and human intervention

44
Q

What is a constructive wave

A

Constructive waves​ tend to ​deposit material​, which ​creates depositional landforms​ and increase the size of beaches. Strong swash, weak backwash

45
Q

What is a destructive wave

A

Destructive waves​ act to ​remove depositional landforms​ ​through erosion, which work to decrease the size of a beach. Weak swash, strong backwash

46
Q

How does negative feedback affect beaches and waves

A

Constructive waves causes deposition on the beach, which in turn leads to the beach profile becoming steeper​. ​
Steeper beaches- formation of destructive waves. ​erode the beach​, reducing the beach profile and ​leading to the formation of constructive waves​.

47
Q

How does the sun and moon affects tides

A

The ​highest high tide and the ​lowest low tides ​occur when the sun and the moon are in alignment​. Both of their ​gravitational forces combine to effectively pull the oceans towards them to cause the highest high tides

48
Q

What is longshore drift

A

Waves hit the beach at an angle determined by the direction of the ​prevailing wind
● The waves push sediment in this direction and up the beach in the ​swash
● The wave then carries sediment back down the beach in the ​backwash
● This moves sediment along the beach over time