Wave Types and their Characteristics Flashcards

1
Q

What is a coast?

A

Where the land meets the sea.

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2
Q

What is a wave?

A

A long body of water curling into an arched form which breaks on the shore.

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3
Q

What is the first step of a wave formation?

A

Where the wind blows over the sea.

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4
Q

What is the second step of a wave formation?

A

The wind causes friction on the surface of the water.

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5
Q

What is the third step of a wave formation?

A

The friction on the sea forms ripples on the water, which develop into waves.

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6
Q

What is swash?

A

Water travelling towards the beach at an oblique angle, in the direction of the prevailing wind.

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7
Q

What is backwash?

A

Water travelling back towards the sea at 90°, due to the gravitational pull.

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8
Q

What is a wave crest?

A

The top of the wave.

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9
Q

What is the wave trough?

A

The bottom of the wave?

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10
Q

What is the wave period?

A

The time between wave crests.

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11
Q

What type of orbit do waves have?

A

Circular orbit.

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12
Q

Why does the circular orbit become elliptical?

A

Due to shore friction slowing down the base of the wave.

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13
Q

Does the breaking wave gain or lose height?

A

It will gain height.

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14
Q

Does the upper layer of air sink or gain height?

A

The upper layer of air sinks.

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15
Q

What is the wave length?

A

The distance between crests.

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16
Q

What is the height and energy of a wave dependent on?

A

The wind speed, wind duration and the fetch.

17
Q

What is the fetch?

A

The longer the fetch (distance the wave has travelled), the bigger the wave.

18
Q

What is the wind duration?

A

The longer the wind has blown the bigger the wave.

19
Q

What is wind speed?

A

The faster the wind the bigger the wave.

20
Q

Why does the sea bed act as a source of friction?

A

It is very rough.

21
Q

Why does the South East Coast of the British Isles have large waves?

A

As the waves have a large wave fetch as they have travelled for a long time.

22
Q

What is the wave frequency of a constructive wave?

A

8-10 waves per minute.

23
Q

What is the swash and backwash of a constructive wave?

A

Strong swash, weak backwash.

24
Q

What is the wave frequency of a destructive wave?

A

10-14 waves per minute.

25
Q

What two types of wave are there?

A

Destructive and constructive.

26
Q

What is the wave height of a constructive wave?

A

Under 1 metre.

27
Q

What is the wave height of a destructive wave?

A

Over 1 metre.

28
Q

What is the swash and backwash of a destructive wave?

A

Strong backwash, weak swash.