Coastal systems and processes Flashcards

1
Q

Constructive waves

A

Add sediment to beaches
Strong swash, weak backwash
Weak wind
Wide sloping beaches

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2
Q

Destructive waves

A

Removes sediment from the beach
Weak swash, strong backwash
Strong wind
Steep beach

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3
Q

Winds

A

Movement of air from one place to another
Areas of high atmospheric pressure to low
Prevailing wind in the UK is south-west
Moves sediment along the coastline

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4
Q

Currents

A

Permanent or seasonal movement of surface water in seas/oceans
3 main types: longshore, rip and upwelling

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5
Q

Tides

A

Changes in the level of seas/oceans caused by the gravitational pull of the moon (greater force as it is nearer) and the sun
2 types: spring and neap

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6
Q

Low energy coastline

A

Deposition is greater than erosion rates
Sandy coastline
Landforms: beaches, spits

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7
Q

High energy coastline

A

Erosion is greater than deposition rates
Rocky coastlines
Landforms: headlands, cliffs, wave-cut platforms

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8
Q

Sediment cells

A

Closed systems
Inputs and outputs are balanced
11 sediment cells in the UK
Separated by distinct boundaries (eg- headlands)

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9
Q

Sediment budgets

A

Balance between sediment being added to and removed from a sediment cell coastal system

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10
Q

Weathering

A

Breakdown/disintegration of rock in situ (in its original place)

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11
Q

Mass movement

A

Downhill movement of material under the influence of gravity

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12
Q

Transportation

A

Transfer/flow of material from one place to another

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13
Q

Deposition

A

Velocity of water falls below a critical value for a particular size of sediment and can no longer be transported

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14
Q

Erosion

A

Removes debris from foot of the cliff
Removal of material by wind, waves, tides and sea currents

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15
Q

Hydraulic action

A

Air is forced inside cracks in the rock by water and is highly compressed
Enormous pressure is exerted
Explosive effect with the air under pressure being released
Over time it weakens the cliff
(Cavitation)

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16
Q

Wave quarrying

A

Sheer force of water exerting pressure upon a rock surface
Weakens and dislodges parts of the rock

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17
Q

Corrasion

A

Material picked up by the sea wears away the rock face
Waves hurl material at the base of the cliff

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18
Q

Abrasion

A

Sediment is dragged over rocky surfaces
Smooths and erodes the rock
Sandpapering effect

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19
Q

Solution

A

Weak acids can dissolve alkaline rock (chalk/limestone)
Dissolved particles are then removed

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20
Q

Attrition

A

Material is rolled over eachother by the waves and are smoothed and reduced in size by eachother

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21
Q

Traction

A

Large stones and boulders rolled along the seabed

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22
Q

Suspension

A

Very small particles are carried along by moving water

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23
Q

Run off

A

Where overland flow occurs down a slope or cliff face

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24
Q

Fetch

A

Wave that has built up over a great distance will have generated more energy

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25
Q

Longshore current

A

Waves approach the coastline at an angle
Move and transports sediment parallel to the shoreline

26
Q

Rip current

A

Strong localised underwater currents
Waves pass over sandbars
Struggle to pass over sand bar when they wash back out, forced through a gap creating the rip current

27
Q

Upwelling

A

Movement of cold water from the deep ocean towards the surface
Replaces warmer surface water
Creates nutrient rich cold ocean currents

28
Q

Spring tide

A

Twice a lunar month
When the sun and moon are aligned with eachother
Spring high tide is slightly higher than usual
Spring low tide is slightly lower than usual
Greater tidal range as a result

29
Q

Neap tide

A

Twice a lunar month
When the moon is half full, the sun and moon are at right angles to eachother
Neap high tide is not as high as usual
Neap low tide is not as low as usual
Smaller tidal range as a result

30
Q

Marine processes

A

Operate upon the coastlines
In water

31
Q

Sub-ariel processes

A

Processes that shape the coastline
Out of water

32
Q

3 types of marine processes

A

Deposition
Erosion
Transportation

33
Q

2 types of sub ariel processes
Including types

A

Weathering- mechanical, biological, chemical
Mass movement

34
Q

6 types of erosion

A

Hydraulic action
Wave pounding/quarrying
Corrasion
Abrasion
Corrasion/solution
Attrition

35
Q

4 types of transportation

A

Traction
Saltation
Suspension
Solution

36
Q

Solution

A

Dissolved materials are transported within moving water

37
Q

Saltation

A

Small stones bounced along the seabed

38
Q

Longshore drift

A

Swash carries material up the beach at an angle
Backwash pulls material down the beach at right angles
Creates a zig-zag movement of sediment along the coast

39
Q

Aeolian processes

A

Processes related to the wind

40
Q

3 types of weathering

A

Mechanical
Biological
Chemical

41
Q

Mechanical weathering

A

Break up of rock with no chemical change
3 types: freeze-thaw, salt crystallisation, wetting and drying

42
Q

Biological weathering

A

Breakdown of rocks by organic activity
2 types: roots, birds/animals

43
Q

Chemical weathering

A

Breakdown of rocks by changing the chemical composition- dissolving rocks due to chemical reactions
3 types: carbonation, oxidation, solution

44
Q

Rockfall

A

Rocks on a steep/vertical cliff face
Freeze thaw weathering occurs
Large blocks of rock fall from cliff face to the bottom as ‘scree’

45
Q

Landslide

A

Rock is on a planar surface (hill that has a flat edge)
Rainfall occurs, lubricates the land, reduces friction
Solid blocks of material slide downhill rapidly

46
Q

Mudflow

A

Earth and mud on hillslope
Rainfall fills pores
Mud particles become heavier, sediment flows downhill

47
Q

Rotational slip/ Slumping

A

Material on a curved surface
Permeable rock overlies impermeable rock
Rainfall percolates the soil
Saturated layer on top slumps downhill

48
Q

Soil creep

A

Soil particles get wet, rainfall lubricates particles
Less friction, slowly creeps downhill
Soil dries out and stops moving
Terracettes are formed

49
Q

Solifluction

A

Frozen soil thaws in summer
Becomes saturated
Soil creeps downhill over a layer of permafrost

50
Q

Freeze thaw weathering

A

Freezing and condensing of water

51
Q

Wave refraction

A

When waves hit a coastline which is indented, they are refracted and become increasingly parallel to the coastline
Waves are concentrated on the headland

52
Q

Salt crystallisation

A

Water evaporates, leaving salt crystals
Continues and more salt is left behind
Crystals accumulate and grow
Stress on rocks causes it to break apart

52
Q

Wetting and drying

A

Rocks rich in clay expand when wet
Contract when they dry
Repeats over time
Rocks crack and break apart

52
Q

Roots

A

Plants grow on cliffs
Roots grow in small cracks
Roots grow, expand
Cause cracks to widen and breaks rock apart

53
Q

6 sources of sediment

A

Offshore
Rivers
Wind
Glaciers
Longshore drift
Cliff erosion

54
Q

Birds/animals

A

Dig burrows in cliffs
Rocks break apart

55
Q

Carbonation

A

Rainwater absorbs carbon dioxide
Forms acid rain
Carbonic acid reacts with calcium carbonate, forms calcium bicarbonate
Rock dissolves over time

56
Q

Oxidation

A

Oxygen reacts with iron in rocks
Forms iron oxide (rust)
Rocks then more weak and vulnerable to breaking down

57
Q

Concordant coastline

A

Alternating bands of hard and soft rock running parallel to the coastline

58
Q

Discordant coastline

A

Alternating bands of hard and soft rock perpendicular to the coastline