wave types Flashcards
The main source of energy at the coast is the waves
Waves are mainly generated by wind
The friction between wind and the water surface which transfers energy from the wind to the water
Wind occurs because of the
rotation of the earth and differences in atmospheric pressure when different parcels of air are heated differently by the sun
Various features of the wind will affect how much energy a wave has
fetch, duration and strength of the wind.
fetch is
strength
duration
Distance of open water the wind blows over
How forceful the wind is
How long has the wind been blowing over
Wave height is the
distance from the peak to the trough
Wave length
is the distance from crest to crest
Wave frequency
is the number of waves which pass a specific point over a given time