16-2

Question 1

What are waves?

Answer 1

Rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space

In oceans, the energy wave moves through seawater.

Question 2

What causes waves?

Answer 2

Winds, earthquakes, and gravitational force of the moon and sun

These factors contribute to the formation of waves.

Question 3

What visible evidence indicates energy passing through water?

Answer 3

Water waves

These are commonly seen in the ocean due to wind.

Question 4

Define ‘crest’ and ‘trough’ in wave characteristics.

Answer 4

crest: Highest point of a wave
trough: Lowest point of a wave

Question 5

what is wave height and wavelength?

Answer 5

wave height: Vertical distance between crest and trough. amount of energy and strength depends on it
wavelength: Horizontal distance between the crests or troughs

Question 6

What distinguishes long wavelength waves from short wavelength waves?

Answer 6

Long wavelength waves are gentle rollers, short wavelength waves are choppy water

Question 7

What is the period of a wave?

Answer 7

Time it takes for one full wave to pass a certain point

Question 8

Define frequency and amplitude in relation to waves.

Answer 8

frequency: Number of waves that pass a point in a certain amount of time
amplitude: Half the distance of the wave height

Question 9

How is energy related to amplitude?

Answer 9

Energy is equal to amplitude squared (E=amplitude^2)

Question 10

What occurs to wave height and energy during storms?

Answer 10

Wave height increases a lot, but the amount of energy increases even more, causing damage

Question 11

What causes water to pile up and form a wave?

Answer 11

Friction between wind and water

This movement begins when wind blows across a body of water.

Question 12

What happens to waves when wind stops blowing?

Answer 12

Waves stop forming but continue moving for long distances

Question 13

What factors determine wave height, length, and period?

Answer 13

• Speed (strength) of the wind
• Fetch (distance) over which the wind blows
• Length of time the wind blows

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Question 14

What is wave motion in relation to water?

Answer 14

Waves can travel a great distance while water stays in about the same place except where it is cresting on the shoreline.

Question 15

What happens to an object floating on water as waves pass?

Answer 15

It will rise and fall but does not move with the wave.

Question 16

Describe the motion of water particles in a wave.

Answer 16

Water particles move in a circular orbital motion, swinging forward and downward, then back up to their original position.

Question 17

How does energy move in wave motion?

Answer 17

Energy moves forward while water particles remain in the same place.

Question 18

How does the depth of water affect wave motion?

Answer 18

Deeper water particles move in smaller circles compared to the surface due to the influence of wind.

Question 19

What is the depth of wave motion relative to wavelength?

Answer 19

The depth of wave motion is half the wavelength.

Question 20

What are swells in the context of waves?

Answer 20

Long low waves in deep water.

Question 21

What are breakers?

Answer 21

swells approach shallow water.

Question 22

What causes the height of waves to increase as they approach the shore?

Answer 22

Water on the bottom of a wave is slowed down by friction, causing crests to get closer together and wave height to increase.

Question 23

What occurs when the tops of waves move faster than their bottoms?

Answer 23

The wave front collapses and turns into a breaker.

Question 24

What happens after a wave breaks onto the shore?

Answer 24

Gravity pulls the water back into the sea, creating an undertow.

Question 25

What are tides?

Answer 25

Regular changes in elevation of the ocean surface due to the moon.

Question 26

What is gravity?

Answer 26

A mutually attractive force between any two objects.

Question 27

What factors affect the strength of gravitational pull?

Answer 27

The masses of objects and the distances between them.

Question 28

What is the relationship between the moon and Earth regarding gravity?

Answer 28

The moon and Earth exert gravitational forces on each other, with less pull when they are farther apart.

Question 29

How does the distance from the moon affect gravitational pull on Earth's surface?

Answer 29

Closer areas to the moon have more pull of its gravity, while further areas have less.

Question 30

What is tidal range?

Answer 30

The difference between high tide and low tide.

Question 31

What is high tide? what is low tide?

Answer 31

high tide: When the crest of a wave approaches, the sea level appears to rise. low tide: When the trough approaches.

Question 32

Why should tides be harnessed?

Answer 32

Tides can be harnessed to capture energy of wave motion, useful in large tidal ranges to generate electricity.

Question 33

What is the primary cause of tides on Earth?

Answer 33

The moon's gravity exerts a strong pull on Earth.

Question 34

How does the moon's gravitational force affect the oceans?

Answer 34

It pulls on water particles, causing a bulge on the side toward the moon (high tide).

Question 35

What creates the second bulge of water on the side of Earth opposite the moon?

Answer 35

Inertia causes water to be 'left behind' as Earth is pulled more toward the moon.

Question 36

What happens to water when high tides form?

Answer 36

Water is drawn away from areas between bulges, creating low tides.

Question 37

Why does the sun have a lesser effect on tides compared to the moon?

Answer 37

The sun is larger but much farther away than the moon.

Question 38

How does Earth's rotation affect the timing of tides?

Answer 38

Different locations on Earth's surface pass through high and low positions as Earth rotates.

Question 39

What is the relationship between the east-west travel along the coast and high tide occurrence?

Answer 39

High tide occurs later the farther west you travel along the coast.

Question 40

What factors can affect the height of tides in specific locations?

Answer 40

* Landforms can interrupt water movement * A basin at a river's mouth can increase tidal range * Speed and depth increase as water flows into a narrower channel

Question 41

What is a solar tide?

Answer 41

The sun pulls water on Earth's surface toward it, creating a smaller tidal effect than the moon.

Question 42

Define spring tides.

Answer 42

Tides that occur when the moon, Earth, and Sun are aligned during a new moon.

Question 43

What are the characteristics of neap tides?

Answer 43

Smaller high tides and low tides that occur when the sun, Earth, and moon form a right angle.

Question 44

How often do spring and neap tides occur each month?

Answer 44

Two spring and two neap tides each month.

Question 45

What are the three types of tidal patterns?

Answer 45

* Diurnal: one high and one low tide each day * Semidiurnal: two high and two low tides each day of similar size * Mixed: similar to semidiurnal but with large inequality in high and low water heights