Physical Oceanography

Question 0

Standing Wave

Answer 0

Wave energy does not move forward

Question 1

Label the wave

Answer 1

A. Crest, B. Trough, C. Wavelength, D. Wave height, E. Flat water

Question 2

Shallow water wave vs deep water wave

Answer 2

Shallow: less than 1/2 height
Deep: more than 1/2 height

Question 3

Things that cause tsunamis

Answer 3

Landslide, earthquake, hurricanes

Question 4

Lunar Day

Answer 4

24 hours 50 minutes. Affects tides by time of low and high is different

Question 5

Spring Tide

Answer 5

Highest highs and lowest lows. Sun, moon and earth in a straight line

Question 6

Neap Tide

Answer 6

Lowest highs, and highest lows. Sun moon and earth at 90 degree angle

Question 7

Western Boundary Current

Answer 7

Swift, narrow, warm, deep

Question 8

Eastern Boundary Current

Answer 8

Slow, broad, cold, shallow

Question 9

Northern Hemisphere

Southern Hemisphere

Answer 9

Clockwise

Counter clockwise

Question 10

More dense water

Answer 10

Cold and salty

Question 11

Immediate source of waves and currents

Answer 11

Wind

Question 12

300 feet apart, “feels” bottom at

Answer 12

150 feet

Question 13

Steps as a wave approaches shore

Answer 13

1. Wave “feels” bottom
2. Wave crest peaks
3. Friction, causing pile up
4. 1:7 ratio; height to length
5. 3:4 ratio; height to depth

Question 14

Primary Forces

Answer 14

Density, thermohaline circulation and wind

Question 15

Secondary Forces

Answer 15

Shape of ocean basin, coriolis, gyres

Question 16

Flood vs ebb

Answer 16

Flood- incoming tide

Ebb- outgoing tide

Question 17

What type of tidal system is found in Garden City? What does this mean?

Answer 17

Semi-diurnal. There are two high and two low tides