Wave refraction

Question 1

wave refraction is when the shape of the coastline curves waves so that they end up more or less

Answer 1

parallel to the coastline

Question 2

wave refraction occurs because (explain the steps in wave refraction)

Answer 2

• waves approach the coast in parallel lines
• when one section of a wave hits shallower water, it slows down due to increased friction with the seabed
• this creates a curved wave near headlands or bars as the rest of the wave keeps travelling at the same speed

Question 3

wave refraction means the wave energy becomes more

Answer 3

concentrated on the headland, causing greater erosion

Question 4

as waves hit a headland, their energy is concentrated onto the …………………so when the rest of the wave spills into the bay, they ………………..sediment

Answer 4

onto the headland, deposit sediment

Question 5

wave refraction on headlands can create

Answer 5

longshore currents

Question 6

longshore currents are

Answer 6

when eroded sediments form the headland are carried towards the beaches on either side of the headland because the concentrated wave energy leads to a small local sea level rise, so the water creates a currents to ‘drain’ away the ‘extra’ water converging on the headland