Ch.4 – Madeira Flashcards
1
Q
Name the six “recommended” grape varieties in Madeira
A
Tinta Negra (on label since 2015) most grown, high yield
- Sercial dry, highest acid, late ripening. Prone to botrytis bunch rot, resists powdery mildew
- Verdelho 2nd most grown, high acid, prone to botyrtis, coulure, downy & powdery mildew
-
Boal umbrella for no. of varieties.
- Boal Cachudo (aka Malvasia Fina in white port) grows on warm, low sites on S Island. Hates drought so needs irrigation. Semi-sweet wines
-
Malvasia also umbrella term.
- Malvasia Candida best quality, but susc. to powdery mildew (limits yields) so small plantings.
- Malvasia de São Jorge most common, high yield, but susc. to botrytis bunch rot
- Terrantez very limited. Powdery mildew and botrytis bunch rot, so picked as soon as 9% abv
2
Q
What is the climate of Madeira?
A
- Warm summers (av 20-22C)
- Mild winters (16-17C) - issue winter dormancy warm sites
- Mountains (up to 1800m) cause microclimates
- cool with altitude
- N-W humid winds = rain on North & Centre (+3000mm pa in centre), in Autumn & Winter
- Warmer/ drier in South
3
Q
Vineyard size, location and soil in Madeira
A
- only 450 ha vines (out of 74000 ha island)
- vineyards up to 800m
- near coast (as centre island mountainous forest)
- volcanic soils high in nutrients
- plenty rain = fertile = high yields
4
Q
Where is Madeira?
A
- Portuguese island in Atlantic 600km west of Morocco
5
Q
Give a brief history of Madeira and its wine
A
- Discovered/colonised Portuguese 1419
- Burnt forest, planted sugar/wheat/vines
- 16th C sugar decline, wine main export
- 17th 18th Cs Brit merchants sent wine to N America & WIndies: pitching seas improved wine: used as ballast
- Mid-late 19th C powdery mildew/ phylloxera less yield
- US prohibition, 2 WWs, Russian Revolution
- By end 20th C tastes changed
- 1979 Instituto do Vinho da Madeira to regulate industry became 2006 Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanto da Madeira (IVBAM)
- 1986 Portugal EU so subsidies to improve quality (esp replanting post phyllox American vines with vitis vinifera and US rootstocks)
6
Q
What trellising systems are used in Madeira?
A
Madeira is mountainous. Steep slopes means many vineyards terraced.
-
Latadas = pergola system.
- Allows air circulation above and below, reduces fungal in humid climate.
- Can plant other crops below, effective use of small landholding
- Espaldeira = cordon trained, VSP trellised vines.
7
Q
Risks, pests and diseases in Madeira?
A
- Madeira warm, humid: high risk of disease;
- Downy mildew
- Botrytis bunch rot
- Phomopsis
- Canopy management (shoot positioning/ leaf removal) helps but fungicide sprays usu. necessary
-
Drought - esp in drier south of Island
- Irrigation via levadas - small channels - take rainwater from centre to vineyards
8
Q
Madeira harvest timing and rules
A
- Official harvest decided by IVBAM in consult with growers/producers. Usually end Aug, begin Sept
- Harvesting mainly by hand (topography)
- Min potential alcohol at harvest 9%. Average usu. 11%
- Grape prices vary according to variety and health (trad varieties much more than Tinta Negra)
- Max yield varies, but high (e.g. 150hL/ha) common. Easy to reach with irrigation water/fertile soils.
9
Q
Describe wine-making of Madeira up to maturation
A
- Reps of IVBAM must be present at winery for arrival of all grapes: checked for weight, health, pot alcohol.
- Grapes de-stemmed and crushed.
- Use of skin contact producer’s choice
- Tinta Negra often ferment on skin esp med sweet +
- Some also use skin contact for white grapes
- Fermentation stainless steel + ambient yeasts
- Fortification alcohol 96% (only 77% in port) so neutral.
- added after 2 days for sweet wines (retain res sugar)
- after a week for driest styles
- Producers can choose fort.alcohol, but IVBAM approval
- After fortification, wines us 17-18%
- Wines then fined (betonite, gelatine, albumin common) and filtered (us diatomaceous earth) to clarify
- Batches tasted and classified according to style and quality - determines maturation pathway
10
Q
There are two options for maturing Madeira. Both replicate hot, oxidative conditions of 17th-18th C shipping.
Which is the quicker one?
A
Estufagem
- Wine heated in estufas (temp controlled steel vessels using heating coil or jacket) Not filled to top to allow some oxidation
- 45-50C (max 55C) for min 3 months
- IVBAM seal vessel at start and open at end
- Let cool, filtered and rested for 6-12 mths
- Cannot sell wine until 31st Oct of 2nd yr following harvest
- This “quick ageing” produces less complex wines than canteiro method, but improved process from historically “baked, stewed”
- Commonly used for 3-5 yr old wines from Tinta Negra.
- Possible EU subsidies for further ageing.
11
Q
What is the process for maturing high quality madeira?
A
Canteiro
- Matured in old oak barrels (400-700L) in loft/warehouse heated by sun. Some headspace for oxidative dev.
- Temps us. 25-40C with warmer bits near roof for youngest wines: moved to cooler floor for extended ageing
- Humid, but evap of water still cause slow rise to 19-20%
- This also concentrates sugars, acidity, aroma compounds.
- Volatile acidity also rises
- Madeira rarely racked, but evap means barrels need regular topping up
- Wines cannot be sold until 3yrs after 1st Jan after harvest
- IVBAM must seal and unseal vessels
- Possible EU subsidies available for further ageing.
12
Q
EU subsidies are available to further age Madeira. How does this work?
A
- Apply to IVBAM to offset cost of further ageing (etsufagem or canteiro).
- Subsidy depends on volume in hL.
- Min 5 years further ageing in larger wooden vessels, stainless steel vats or demi-johns to limit further evaporation
- IVBAM seal and unseal after 5 years. Producer can check wine/ adjust during 5 yrs if supervised by IVBAM
- Producer can apply for another 5 year subsidy
13
Q
What is the impact of maturation on Madeira?
A
- Significant. Oxidation causes colour to brown, primary fruit becomes tertiary dried fruit.
- Warm accelarated this and caramelises sugar.
- Final wines range dependent on style, age and quality: from dried fruits like apricot & raisin, caramel, chocolate, nuts and often smoky character.
- from 2015 all Madeira must show bottling date
14
Q
What is the role of blending in Madeira?
A
- Most Madeira NV, so diff vintages, vineyards, diff barrels in diff areas of warehouse etc for consistency of style
- Complexity (young wines from estufas may be blended with older Canteiro wines)
15
Q
What adjustments are permitted in Madeira?
A
- LOTS
- RCGM to increase sweetness
- Blend drier wine to decrease
- Caramel used to add colour in cheap wines
- Carbon fining can strip colour
- Fining & filtering before bottling
