All info Flashcards
(423 cards)
1
Q
Staples are short fibres.
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2
Q
All natural fibres are staple fibres except silk.
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3
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Filament fibres for long continuous lengths. They are manufactured or synthetic fibres.
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4
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For example silk.
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6
Q
Yarns are made by twisting staple or filament yarns together.
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7
Q
Filament yarns for filament fibres which are smooth so not good insulators.
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8
Q
Staple fibres form staple yarns which are hairy so good insulators.
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9
Q
The tighter the twists
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the stronger the yarn.
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11
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Fancy yarns are made from either or both staple and filament yarns.
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12
Q
They add interesting textures to fabrics.
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13
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Bouclé is a fancy yarn and comes from the french word for curly.
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14
Q
A slub yarn has varying thickness along its length. It adds texture and is made by spinning.
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15
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Chenille yarn is soft and fluffy with fibres sticking out from its core. They are soft and warm.
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16
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17
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They are made up of a top fabric glued to a lightweight second fabric.
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18
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They add strength to the main fabric.
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19
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Foam is often bonded to fine knitted or woven fabric as they are hard to work with.
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20
Q
Faux leather is made by bonding woven cotton with PU.
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21
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PVC is made from polyvinyl-chloride and cotton.
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24
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Consists of 3 layers stitched together.
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Top layer or facing
middle sponge layer
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They add aesthetic appeal
strength and insulation.
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Works with planes etc.
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Its largest aircraft was the A380 carrying up to 800 passengers.
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It was built using lightweight materials and the wing design is based on an eagle's wing.
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This is an example of biomimicry which is when designers take inspiration from nature.
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CAD technology is used.
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Innovation and design are important for apple.
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Designs are sleeved with consistent colours
shapes and materials.
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Apple is often criticised for developing products with planned obsolescence of old products.
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Innovative products using technology to improve existing products.
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He introduces cyclonic technology instead of a hoover bag.
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Welsh furniture designer who uses luxurious materials like brass
marble
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She uses traditional craft skills and modern manufacturing techniques.
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Design inspiration comes from worldwide travel.
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She supports Islamic craft skills.
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He created lots of well known game characters like Donkey Kong when working at Nintendo.
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He created a better user experience through the allowance of character customisation.
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He is responsible for developments in game controllers.
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Sustainability is at the forefront of her brand.
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She doesn't use fur or leather as she uses recycled materials where possible.
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Her signature style included tailored garments alongside feminine lingerie inspired clothing.
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She feels that women should feel inspired in her clothes.
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High fashion with low environmental impact.
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Print has been at the forefront of her brand and she started by painting her own designs for headscarves.
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Her very popular long Victorian inspired dresses became known as the “Laura Ashley” look.
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Her business expanded to coordinate a range of fabrics like natural materials.
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Bundle production is when product parts are organised in bundles and passed along the assembly line.
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Each operative completes their task in a bundle before passing it on to the next operator.
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They could be organised by colour
way or size.
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Machines are set up in a straight line and work is also organised in bundles.
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Each mechanist completes the same set task before passing it on.
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Operates in a large production line.
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Cells may produce the entire products or specialist parts.
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Fashions change because designers develop new concepts or looks.
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Fashion shows are used to showcase new collections and ideas trickle down from here to mainstream fashion.
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Market researchers who predict the future trends years in advance of them being released.
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Individuals with a strong sense of style and fashion who trigger new trends eg celebrities.
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Specialise in creating looks for clients.
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They could be individuals or groups looking for corporate images.
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Have a memory and can return to their original shape when heated.
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They have excellent elasticity e.g. Nitinol.
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Nitinol is an alloy of titanium and nickel.
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Nitinol is used in medicine like the wire on braces.
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It's also used in bone staples and stents.
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It's a thermoforming polymer used as a modelling medium.
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It is supplied from granular but becomes soft when heated in water at about 62’C.
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It can be moulded by hand but solidifies on cooling.
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It can be shaped with hand tools.
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It can be used with moulds.
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Change colour as a result of change in light intensity of UV.
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Sunglasses have photochromic lenses which turn from light to dark.
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They can be applied to textile fabrics and add a fun element to garments.
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Change colour in response to heat.
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They can be engineered to reach a specific temperature range.
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They can be used on food packaging to indicate an ideal chilled temperature has been reached.
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They can be used on sports clothing to indicate intensity of a workout.
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Microscopic particles or droplets are applied to materials like card
fabric and fibres.
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They contain essential oils
antibacterial treatments
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They are released through contact with the skin.
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Biometrics is the study of the structure and function of living things.
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Biomimicry takes inspiration from the natural world in order to design sustainable solutions for new garments.
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It would help in the development of new products to ensure efficiency or function.
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The spurs on the burdock thistle have small hooks that cling to fabrics. This was the inspiration for velcro.
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Find flexible fibres and thread that are made from carbon
steel and silver and can be woven into fabric.
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Electricity can conduct through them.
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Some are washable.
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Electronic devices are integrated into textiles.
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They rely on conductive fibres to conduct electricity.
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The devices can communicate wirelessly with the user / wearer.
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For example: phones
LEDs
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Some electronic devices interact with the biometric data of the user.
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Sensors track changes.
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Continually being developed and designed for certain purposes.
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PCMs or phase changing materials change from one state to another by absorbing
storing and releasing heat.
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They store energy in liquid when it's hot and release energy when they cool down and return to a solid.
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They help regulate body temperature.
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Closely woven fabrics block out harmful UVs as there are gaps within the weave.
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Fabrics with a natural lustre or sheen reflect UVs away.
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Fabrics like Gore-tex that have a permeable membrane that manages the flow of moisture.
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Fine engineered fibred (Polyester or nylon).
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Include specific properties for set purposes.
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Tactel
Modal and Tencel are all microfibres.
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They can be manufactured or natural.
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They Are 100 times thinner than human hair.
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Sportswear and underwear are made from microfibres.
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A new product is developed as a result of market demand.
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Consumers want upgraded products.
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Designers and manufacturers have to be sure there is a need for consumers for a specific product for it to be successful.
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Technology pushes consumer choice.
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Introduction- product landed into a market.
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Growth- sales steadily increase.
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Maturity- sales reach their peak.
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Decline- sales drop off.
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Used to judge when to stop manufacturing or replace it with a new one. Some products aren't meant to last.
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Obsolescence is when a product no longer sells or sells at a discounted rate because it's no longer desired.
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Manufacturing affects society and people's moral and ethical beliefs.
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Global manufacturing gives consumers lots of choice
but at a cost to the environment and jobs in western society.
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Some manufacturing companies have more ethical approaches and treat workers with decent wages and working conditions.
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Socially responsible businesses also support environmental causes and openly disclose costs.
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CAD = computer aided design.
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CAM = computer aided machinery.
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CAD packages offer improved quality of design. It offers things like 3D options
professional technology etc.
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CAM is ideal for producing lots of identical products because it's a more efficient system.
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BUT.
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Designers need to be trained to use CAD.
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CAM is expensive
needs regular maintenance and causes job losses.
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Finishes are chemically / chemically applied to a product to:
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Enhance aesthetic properties.
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Prolong the fabric life.
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Improve functionality.
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Physical finishes that change the appearance of fabric dyeing
printing or painting.
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Mechanical finish that smooths and flattens fibres as it passes through rollers to give it a more lustrous finish.
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Same process as calendering but it leaves an engraved design on the fabric.
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Similar to calendering
but resins or stiffeners are added for a more permanent finish.
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Chemical finish that causes fibres to swell and shrink leaving a lustrous fabric.
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This only applies to natural fibres.
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Fabric is exposed to wire brushes that raise the fibres to give it a fluffy appearance.
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Doing this improves insulation.
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Chemical finish that prevents stains from permanently discolouring and spoiling fabrics.
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Teflon and scotch-guard are stain resistant finishes.
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It prolongs fabric life.
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Chemical finish that prevents fabrics from burning or burning too quickly.
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Proban is used.
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Uses a chemical process that repels moths and their larvae and stops them feeding off and destroying wool fibres.
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Chemical finish where resin is applied to stop fabrics from creasing
making them easier to care for.
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Allows you to limit or stop ironing the garment.
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Chemical finish where silicone is sprayed onto the fabric to stop water from penetrating through the fabric.
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Not a permanent finish.
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Coating fabrics with PVC or PVA does make it waterproof.
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Chemical finish that will only repel a very light exposure to moisture.
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Chlorine based chemical finish which stops fabric from shrinking.
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Stops scales on wool fibres from locking together which causes shrinking.
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Chemical finish that makes fabrics more comfortable to wear by stopping electrostatic charge that builds up through friction causing fabric to cling to the body.
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Many of the processes used by textiles manufacturers require the use of harmful chemicals.
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It is their responsibility to make sustainable choices in relation to these chemicals.
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Environment
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Cotton needs a lot to grow so is diverted away from communities where water is scarce.
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Harmful pesticides are used to protect cotton
but it can be grown organically.
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Large scale sheep farming for wool calves leads to soil damage. Chemicals used to treat sheeps can contaminate water supplies.
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Transportation of goods in the textiles industry causes a carbon footprint.
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Working conditions
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In some countries working conditions are poor and workers are exposed to harmful toxins.
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Exploitation
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Workers are often exploited- low wage
no rights and child labour is often used.
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Recyclability and waste
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Chemicals used in finishing processes can affect sustainability at the end of that product's life.
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Biodiversity
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Eco systems are damaged by harmful substances used in the manufacturing of textiles.
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Hot notch markers are used to transfer critical points on a template. They bore and seal a tiny hole through the fabric to mark a critical point.
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Fabric spreading machines automatically lay out several layers of fabric on long cutting tables.
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A lay plan designed using a CAD program is sent to the cutting table where it is cut out using laser cutters.
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Straight
round or band knives are used for hand cutting templates when laser cutting is not an option.
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Automated die cutters are used to cut small complex shapes from small layers of fabric like the small pieces found in bras.
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Laser cutters can cut intricate shapes in fabric that cannot be done by hand.
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Additive manufacture is used to print 3D shapes
layer by layer
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CAD is any form of digital design for overall styling
embroidery
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CAM is automated operations including 3D printing
fabric printing
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Textile fabrics are available in stock forms which are readily available to designers
manufacturers etc. It refers to the width of the fabric based on the width of the loom it was made from.
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Standard widths include:
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90cm (lining / interfacing)
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115cm
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150cm
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200cm
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240cm
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Common names for stock forms include: velvet
denim
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For home sewers
textile fabric is bought off the roll in metre lengths or multiples of 10cm.
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The cost of a fabric depends on its width
fibre content
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In industry fabrics and components are bought in bulk so they are cheaper than what individuals can buy in a fabric shop.
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The cost of a product is based on the cost of all raw materials.
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When calculating the cost of material for the product
you should consider:
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Bias cutting of the template increases waste.
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What's the most economical fabric to use?
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How templates should be laid out.
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Pattern matching.
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Zip fasteners are available in different lengths
weights
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Buttons are available in different sizes
colours
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Buckles are a secure fastening in different sizes
shapes
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Velcro is a secure fastening where two sides interlock together.
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Eyelets are metallic or plastic rings inserted into the fabric.
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Press studs is when one side simply clicks onto another.
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Different threads exist to:
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Sew fabrics together- polyester thread is strong and suits most purposes.
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Decorative purposes- glossier thread is used for embroidery.
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Functional reasons- conductive threads carry electricity.
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Trims can be decorative e.g. lace
ribbon
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They can be functional e.g. tapes
cords
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Fabric is fully immersed in water continuing the dye which changes the fabrics colour.
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Natural dyes work well on natural fibres but synthetic fibres need chemical dyes.
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Dyes need to include mordant to ensure the dye fixes to the fabric permanently.
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Types of dye:
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Piece - a length of fabric is dyed one colour.
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Dip - a part of fabric is dyed which causes a gradual effect.
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Random - small sections of the fabric are dyed. No regularity to the design.
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Batik - hot melted wax is applied in pattern then immersed in dye. The wax resists the dye.
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Felt tip - the specialist felt pens draw directly on fabric and it needs to be heat fixed.
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Fabric paint - specialist paint needs to be heat fixed.
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Silk paints - paints give a watery effect. They can be used with a gutta outliner which the paint cannot pass through.
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Dimensional - paint applied through a piping tube to give a raised effect.
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Screen printing - involves the use of screens to apply a pattern to the fabric.
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Roller printing - is similar to screen printing but the rollers are engraved with the design and leave the pattern on the fabric.
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Discharge printing - works with screen printing but a bleaching agent is used to destroy some colour so the design is paler.
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Inkjet transfer - also referred to as heat transfer. Works in the same way as an ordinary printer but with specialist paper.
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Polymers are fibres that have a molecular structure made up of smaller units bonded together.
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Thermosetting polymers can be heated and formed into a specific shape.
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On cooling
these polymers cannot be reheated or reshaped.
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This makes them difficult to recycle.
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Clips and buckles can be made by this.
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Plugs on electrical equipment are made from thermosetting polymers.
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These can be softened by heating and formed into a required shape.
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On cooling
they retain the new shape.
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Polyester
nylon and acrylic are all thermoforming polymers.
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They can be reheated and reshaped to make recycling possible.
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Polyester and nylon work well in the process because they won't melt.
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PVC
polythene and polystyrene are also thermoforming polymers but aren't as widely used in fashion garments.
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Tensile strength - refers to the force needed to break a fibre.
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Strength - the higher the number of interlacing yarns
the stronger the fabric.
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Elasticity - the extent to which a fibre will stretch before breaking and how well it recovers.
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Absorbency - the fibres ability to take up or soak in moisture without feeling wet.
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Durability - the fibre of fabrics ability to withstand wear and tear when subject to friction.
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Insulation - the ability to trap air and retain heat to act as an insulator.
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Flammability - how easy a fibre or fabric burns.
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Water repellency - the ability to repel water.
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Anti static - static is the electrostatic charge that builds up through some fabrics.
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Resistant to acid and bleach - the ability to resist damage through exposure to acid or bleach.
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Resistant to sunlight - ability to reflect UV rays to prevent damage.
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Weight - fabric construction and thickness of yarn affect the weight of the fabric.
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Weaving and knitting are the two types of fabric construction.
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Woven fabrics are more stable.
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Knitted fabrics have the ability to stretch.
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The properties depend on the tightness of construction.
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Weaving is the interlacing of two sets of yarns at right angles.
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Warp yarns run the length of the fabric.
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Weft yarns run across the fabric.
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Plain weave - strong and stable.
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Twill weave - a strong weave identified by diagonal lines.
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Satin weave - has a very shiny side caused by the warp yarns floating over the weft yarns. It drapes well but snags easily.
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Pile weave - has a raised surface caused by the loops of yarn that stands up. This can be cut to create plush fabrics.
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Weft knitting is formed by rows of loops interlocking horizontally across the fabric.
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It's made from one continuous line.
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It unravels easily and ladders or runs if cut.
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It stretches easily but can lose shape and it's made by hand or machine.
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Warp knitting is formed from yarns interlocking vertically along the length of the fabric.
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It's difficult to unravel and doesn't ladder when cut.
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It has stretch but still holds its shape well.
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It lies flat when cut and can only be made by machine.
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They are made directly from fibres and are:
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Cheap to manufacture.
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Cheaper to use because there's no grain.
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Do not fray when cut.
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Weaker than knitted or woven fabric.
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Felted fabrics are made from wool.
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The scales on wool fibre matt together when exposed to heat
moisture and mechanical action.
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Needle felts consist of synthetic fibres matted together mechanically using barbed needles.
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Bonded fabrics have a top fabric that is laminated to a thin layer of lightweight woven fabric.
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Adhesive is used to hold the layers together.
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Faux leather is an example.
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Laminated fabrics consist of two or more layers of fabric.
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They are held together either by adhesives or a thin layer of thermoplastic film.
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Gore - tex is an example that has a breathable hydrophilic membrane.
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Gore - tex is used for high performance clothing because it lets out moisture but repels wind and rain.
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Geo-textiles are permeable woven or bonded
natural or synthetic fibres.
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They are used with soil to support drainage and protection against erosion.
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They are also used in agriculture and civil engineering.
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Kevlar has excellent heat and corrosion resistance and high tensile strength.
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They can withstand extreme conditions
are bullet proof and resistant to a knife attack.
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Nomex will withstand extreme conditions.
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It's resistant to heat and flames.
