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D3: Wines of the World COPY HENRY > Ch. 2 – Bordeaux > Flashcards

Ch. 2 – Bordeaux Flashcards

1
Q

Bordeaux

A

Bordeaux

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2
Q

History of Bordeaux

A

17th century - land unsuitable for viti was drained by Dutch residents

Bordeaux - long been centre of wine exports

  • created class of merchants and brokers
  • established international reputation

1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris

  • classification based on price in Medoc and Graves
  • 5 bands (Sauterrnes 3 bands)
  • essentially unaltered till today

111,000 ha planted (70% inexpensive or mid-priced)
- 3% premium

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3
Q

Two rivers flowing through Bordeaux

A

Garonne and Dordogne which flow into Gironde

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4
Q

Bordeaux climate

A

Moderate maritime climate

  • cooling influence of Atlantic
  • sufficient rainfall
  • relatively dry autumn

Left bank - partially protected from Atlantic by pine forests (Landes) - cooler and more marginal
- norhtern Medoc is more open to Ocean

Rainfall is variable (950mm)

  • excessive rain is factor of vintage variation
  • climate change - drier conditions
  • fungal disease threat

Right bank - less maritime influence (still a factor)

Frost risk further from Gironde (river has moderating effect)

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5
Q

Climatic conditions supporting balance of wine in Bordeaux

A

Cooling influence of Atlantic

Gentle heat during growing season

Sufficient rainfall to promote ripening

Relatively dry autumn for steady and complete ripening

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6
Q

Rainfall in Bordeaux and its consequences in growing season

A
  • excessive rain is factor of vintage variation

950mm on average

Flowering
 - poor fuit set
Through growing season 
 - increased disease pressure
Following veraison 
 - unripe fruit and fungal diseases
Harvest
 - diluted flavours
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7
Q

Soils Left bank

and its qualities

A

deposits of gravel (mixed with clay, sand and minerals) and stony soils
(from floodwaters from Pyrenees and Massif Cetral)

All top estates are planted on gravel mounds (croupes)

Soil is not very deep

Drains well - roots dry out fast after rain
- in hot years can mean risk of drought stress (especially on shallow soils)

Great heat retention (releases heat at night to promote slow ripening)

More robust (less acclaimed) wines on clay pockets

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8
Q

Soils Right bank

A

Far more clay but still with significant patches of gravel
- dominated by Merlot

Limestone plateau and gravel section on borders of Pomerol

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9
Q

Merlot

A 
Early budding (vulnerable to frost)
Mid ripening (picked before autumn rain)

Susceptible to coulure, drought, botrytis
- sorting necessary

Can ripen fully in colder years

Dominant on Right bank and cooler northern Medoc
- waterholding capacity of clay enables it to produce large berries - higher alcohol potential

Contributes with med to pronounced intensity
- cold years: strawberry, red plum, herbaceous flavours
- hot years: cooked blackberry, black plum
Med tannins
Med to high alcohol

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10
Q

Cabernet Sauvignon

A 
Late budding (protected from frost)
Ripens late (needs warmer soils, vulnerable to autumn rains)

Small, thick-skinned (high tannin content)

Prone to fungal diseases

  • powdery mildew
  • trunk diseases Eutypa and Esca

Highest quality on warm, well-drained soils - gravel of Medoc

Contributes with violet, blackcurrant, black cherry, menthol or herbaceous flavours
med alcohol
high acidity
high tannin

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11
Q

Cabernet Franc (contribution to Bordeaux blend)

A

Contributes with:
Red fruit
high acidity
medium tanin

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12
Q

Malbec

A

mainly replanted with Merlot after frost of 1956

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13
Q

Petit Verdot

A

Buds early, ripens later than Cabernet Sauvignon
- difficult to grow in Bordeaux (but valued)

Prone to spring frost
Fails to ripen in cool years
Vulnerable to rain around harvest

Does best on warmer parts of Medoc

Often less than 5% of blend

Powerfull, deeply coloured wines
Spice notes
High tannins

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14
Q

Semillon

A

Mid-ripening

Susceptible to botrytis and noble rot in right conditions

High yields

Light intensity apple, lemon, grassy
Med body, med alcohol, med (med+ acidity)
- often softens Sauvignon Blanc’s more intense flavours and acidity

Strong affinity with vanilla and sweet spice from French oak

Botrytis affected: honey, dried fruit (lemon, peach) waxy texture

Ageability - toast, honey
(Sauvignon Blanc flavours do not evolve)

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15
Q

Sorting

A

Depends on value of wine and quality of te vintage

High quality wine

  • sorted in the vineyard
  • by hand on vibrating belt
  • optical sorting

If vintage is good - less sorting

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16
Q

Harvesting/vinifying more plots

A

Many producers vinify plot by plot

  • for optimum ripeness (different harvest times)
  • creating material for blending
  • requires more smaller vessels (adds cost)
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17
Q

Fermentation of red wine

A

Closed vats with pump-overs

Mostly cultured yeast

Vessels: wood, stainless, concrete (with temp control)

Temperature - depends on style and vintage

  • inexpensive - mid temp (5-7 days of maceration)
  • Premium - mid to warm (14-30 days of maceration)

Post-ferment maceration is reduced in poor vintages if fruit is not fully ripe

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18
Q

Pressing

A

Pneumatic press or modern hydraulic, vertical press
- gentle extraction

Winemaker decides on % of press wine (adds structure and tannin)

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19
Q

Size of Barrique

A

225l

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20
Q

Malolactic

A

in tank or barrel

Many producers go for rapid completion (cellars may be heated)
- for wines to be tasted following spring by journalists

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21
Q

Maturation

A

Simple styles

  • steel, concrete or large vats
  • 4-6 months
  • oak chips may be added

Premium

  • French oak barriques
  • mix of first, second and three year old
  • up to 100% new (trend is decreasing)
  • usually med to med plus toasting
  • 18-24 months (depending on quality)
  • more concetrated wines need longer
  • traditionally racked each 3 months
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22
Q

Blending

A

2 approaches:

Early (spring after harvest)

  • to present wines in spring
  • blending over winter
  • near-final blend
  • deselection of wine for second or third label and bulk to sell

Few months before bottling

  • blending team can assess evolution of each variety and lot before making decision
  • winemaking consultants
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23
Q

Muscadelle

A

Very prone to botrytis

Contributes with flowery, grapey notes

Not related to Muscat

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24
Q

Planting density

A
  1. 000 vines per hectare
    - suitable for relatively infertile soils
    - moderates vigour
    - adds cost for plants and trellising
    - special over the row tractors
    - more time needed for management
    - best use of expensive land

Less prestigious appellations often planted at lower density

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25
Q

Vine training

A

Cane pruning

  • canes trained along wires
  • Double Guyot (Left Bank)
  • Single Guyot (Right Bank)

Cordon-pruned (rare)

  • spur-pruned
  • natural reduction of yield and aeration to bunches
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26
Q

Canopy management

A

Important to reduce incidence of downy mildew, powdery mildew and botrytis bunch rot

Leaf removal in summer

  • improve aeration and deter rot
  • aids ripening

‘Soft pruning’ to fight Eutypa dieback and Esca

Pruning short in winter instead of greenharvesting
- better vine balance

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27
Q

Average yield

A

50 hl/ha average

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28
Q

Harvest

A

Teams are hired for longer periods - expected paid idleness

Workers from other EU countries

Remote or high yielding sites are picked by machine

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29
Q

Rose winemaking

A

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon mainly

In the past made by bleeding off (by-product)

Now direct pressing

2 styles:

  • deeper coloured Clairet
  • lighter coloured rose
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30
Q

White winemaking

A

Pressed directly at arrival or left on skins (up to 24h)

Inexpensive - cold ferment in steel
Mid range - left on fine lees for 6-12 months
Higher quality
- fermented and aged in barriques (proportion new)
- many block malo
- may use batonnage

Prof. Denis Dubourdieu and Andre Lurton

  • focus on Sauvignon Blanc
  • skin contact
  • less new oak
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31
Q

Viticulture for sweet wine in Bordeaux

A

Usually 1/3 of yield for still wines

  • pruning to low levels of buds
  • removal of any fruit showing disease or damage
  • below 10 hl/ha is common
  • max yield 25 hl/ha (Sauternes and Barsac)
  • high production cost

Harvest can lst from September to November
- up to 12 passages

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32
Q

Level of Botrytis depends on:

A

Whether conditions are correct for spread of noble rot

Proximity to areas where mist forms

Willingness to wait for the best times to harvest and risk losing some fruit due to weather

Willigness to pay pickers for multiple passes

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33
Q

Winemaking options for sweet wine in Bordeaux

A

Once picked, handled as white wine

Ferment in steel, concrete or barriques

Aged for varying periods in any of those containers

Top-quality typically barrel-ferment with high proportion of new oak and barrel aged for 18-36 months

  • encouraging gentle oxidation
  • new oak from 30 to 50%
  • Yquem 100% new oak

Less prestigious wines are often unoaked

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34
Q

Bordeaux generic appellations

A

Bordeaux AOC
- max yield white 65hl/ha Rose 62 hl/ha Red 60 hl/ha
Bordeaux Superieur AOC
- max yield 59 hl/ha for red wine

for still red, rose and white
Covers whole region
Together 50% of wine in Bordeaux

Mainly Merlot

Med intensity red fruit
high acidity
med+ tannins
med body and alcohol
Inexpensive to mid priced, acceptable to good
35
Q

Left bank red wine appellations

A 
Médoc AOC
Haut-Médoc AOC
Saint-Estèphe AOC
Pauillac AOC
Saint-Julien AOC
Margaux AOC
Listrac-Médoc AOC
Moulis AOC
36
Q

Graves appellations

A

Graves AOC

Pessac-Leognan AOC

37
Q

Right Bank red wine appellations

A 
Saint-Émilion AOC 
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC
Saint-Émilion satellites 
 - Montagne Saint-Émilion AOC
 - Lussac-Saint-Émilion AOC
Pomerol AOC
Lalande-de-Pomerol AOC
38
Q

Cotes de Bordeaux appellations

A 
Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux
Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux
Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux
Francs Cotes de Bordeaux
Cotes de Bourg AOC
39
Q

Sweet wine appellations

A 
Sauternes AOC
Barsac AOC
Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC
Louplac AOC
Premieres Cotes de Bourdeaux AOC
40
Q

Médoc AOC and Haut-Médoc AOC

A

Left bank of Gironde

Red wine only
Max yield 55 hl/ha
Can only be sold fro mid-June after harvest

Médoc - far north end
Haut-Médoc - includes Laft Bank individual communes
- warm gravelly sites
- 50% Cebernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot
- Gironde moderating influence
- high proportion of gravel
- communes 57 hl/ha
- pronounced blackcurrant, green bell pepper, red plum, vanilla and cedar
- med to high alcohol, high tannins, med+ bodied

Wide range of prices and quality

41
Q

Max yield and when can the wine be sold in:

Médoc AOC and Haut-Médoc AOC

A

Max yield 55 hl/ha (!57 hl/ha in communes)
Can only be sold fro mid-June after harvest
Red wine only

42
Q

Expression of top Left Bank Bordeaux

A

Pronounced blackcurrant, green bell pepper, red plum, vanilla and cedar

Med to high alcohol, high tannins, med+ bodied

43
Q

Saint-Estèphe AOC

A

Most northrly and coolest
More Merlot than other communes
- more clay (better water retention - dry years)

Rustic wines which need many years in bottle (cool climate) to soften tannins

No first growth
Château Montrose (2nd)

44
Q

Pauillac AOC

A

High proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon planted (62%)
- many top estates have 70-80% of Cabernet in blend

High concentration and longevity
Most structured wine of Left Bank
High tannins, High acidity

3 first growths
(85% of classified wines)

Château Lafite Rothschild
Château Latour
Château Mouton Rothschild

45
Q

Saint-Julien AOC

A

High proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon
High proportion of classified growth

Homogenous gravel soils

Mid-way between powerful structure of Pauillac and finesse of Margaux

No first growth but 5 second growths

Château Léoville-Las Cases (2nd)
Château Léoville-Poyferré (2nd)
Château Léoville-Barton (2nd)

46
Q

Margaux AOC

A

high proportion of classified growth
1 first growth

Slightly less Cabernet Sauvignon
Further south - vines ripen few days earlier
- can be advantage againt autumn rains

Bit of clay - additional investment into drainage

Perfumed wines with silky tannins

Château Margaux
Château Rauzan-Ségla (2nd)

47
Q

Listrac-Médoc AOC and Moulis AOC

A

Further from the riveer

  • benefit less from moderating influence of river
  • less gravel

Typically good to very good, mid priced to premium

48
Q

Graves AOC

A

for white (max 58 hl/ha) and red (max 55 hl/ha)

Graves Superieures AOC - late picked and/or botrytis affected sweet wines

49
Q

Pessac-Léognan AOC

A

Sub region of Graves AOC

Gravel soils and moderating effect of Garonne

  • known for high quality
  • also high quality barrel fermented and aged whites

One First Growth (and all Cru classee of Graves)

Reputation for best whites in Bordeaux

Max yield 54 hl/ha for both white and red

White

  • Blend of SB and Semillon
  • pronounced gooseberry, lemon, grapefruit, vanilla, clove
  • med + body, med+ (high) acidity, med (high) alcohol

Reds are similar in style to Medoc

Château Haut-Brion

50
Q

Entre-Deux-Mers AOC

A

White wine only
(red wine is produced but labelled Bordeaux)
max yield 65 hl/ha

acceptable to good

51
Q

Saint-Émilion AOC and Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC

A

Both cover the same area
Red wine only

Saint-Émilion AOC (max yield 53 hl/ha)
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC (max yield 46 hl/ha)

Dominated by Merlot (60%) and then Cabernet Franc

Has its own classification system

Wide range of quality

Best examples have pronounced black plum, vanilla, clove, full body, high alcohol, med+ (high) acidity, med +(high) tannins

Château Angélus
Château Ausone
Château Cheval Blanc
Château Pavie

52
Q

Saint-Émilion Satellites

A

4 AOC close to Saint-Émilion but further away fro Dordogne

same rules as Saint-Émilion

Montagne-Saint-Émilion AOC
Lussac-Saint-Émilion AOC

53
Q

Pomerol AOC

A

Red wine only (Merlot dominated - 80%)
Max yield 49 hl/ha

No classification system but many top-quality estates
- in style similar to Saint-Émilion

Small size estates - small production

Pronounced black plum, vanilla, clove, full body high acohol, med+ (high) acidity, med+ (high) tannins

Ages very well

Château Pétrus
Château L’Évangile

54
Q

Côtes de Bordeaux

A 
Red and white
Right bank
Number of communes can connect their name before the AOC
 - Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux
 - Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux
 - Casillon Côtes de Bordeaux
 - Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

Max yield
- red wine 55 hl/ha (52 hl/ha if commune name appears)

Côtes de Bourg AOC

  • Under Côtes de Bordeaux AOC
  • Merlot dominated
  • similar in style and price to Medoc AOC
  • Focus on Malbec with 10% of hectares
55
Q

Côtes de Bourg AOC

A
  • Under Côtes de Bordeaux AOC
  • Merlot dominated
  • similar in style and price to Medoc AOC
  • Focus on Malbec with 10% of hectares
56
Q

Sauternes and Barsac AOC

A

80% Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle

Cold Ciron River meets with warmer Garonne River

  • promoting morning mist
  • mist burns off by midday
  • afternoon sunshine

Max yield 25 hl/ha (in reality much lower)

Pronounced citrus peel, honey, mango, vanilla, full body, high alcohol, med (med+) acidity, sweet finish

Lack of demand - dry wines also produced now

Château d’Yquem

57
Q

Alternative sweet wine appellations and their yields

A 
Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC (40 hl/ha)
Louplac AOC (40 hl/ha)
Premieres Cotes de Bourdeaux AOC (45 hl/ha)
58
Q

Classification of Château d’Yquem

A

Premier Cru Supérieur

59
Q

1855 Classification

A

60 leading properties from Medoc and Graves

Ranked into 5 tiers

Must be bottles at the estate

60
Q

Classification system in Graves

A

‘The Graves classification’

based on fame and quality judged by tasting

16 classified chateaux red white or both

61
Q

Classification system in Saint-Émilion

A

Revised at aprox 10 yearly intervals

Judged on:

  • their terroir
  • methods of production
  • reputation and commercial considerations
  • blind tasting of at least 10 vintages

4 tiers:

  • Premier Grand Cru Classe A
  • Premier Grand Cru Classe B
  • Grand Cru Classe
  • Grand Cru
62
Q

The Crus Bourgeois du Medoc classification

A

Level below Cru Classe (still superior quality)

  • awarded annually to individual wines not to chateaux
  • any proporty in Medoc can apply

Since 2018 3 tiers:

  • Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnel
  • Crus Bourgeois Superieur
  • Crus Bourgeois
63
Q

Top quality appellation without classification system at all

A

Pomerol AOC

64
Q

Problems of classification systems in Bordeaux

A

Controversial
Grand Cru - for lowest quality
Misleading
Many high quality estates are not included
Saint-Émilion lawsuit dented its reputation

65
Q

Business forms in Bordeaux

A

Number of estates is shrinking (taken over by larger neighbours)

Average size is around 17ha

Annual production over 800 mil bottles

Cooperatives are important (1/4 of production from 40% of growers)

Majority of wine is inexpensive or mid-priced

66
Q

What does raise price in premium bottlings

A 
vine density
harvest costs
higher viticulture costs
lower yield
rigorous grape selection
barrel ageing
land price
67
Q

La Plac de Bordeaux

A

Chateau - broker (courtier) - negociant - wholesaler - retailer - final customer

Each party charges % for their services

Chateau sells to number of negociants (allocation system)

68
Q

French expression for broker

A

Courtier

69
Q

En Primeur

A

Classed growths and other high quality wines

Wine is sold a year to 18 months before it is bottled

  • spring following harvest
  • consumers secure hard-to-buy bottles at lower price
  • estate benefits from early payment

Price includes transportation
- it is ex-cellar - excludes any taxes that will be due in the final market

70
Q

En Primeur procedure

A

April following harvest
- barrel samples are provided for journalists and buyers

May/June

  • Chateau releases prices (usually through negociant)
  • first tranche (to test what market is prepared to pay)
  • Depending on sales of first tranche, second tranche is released and price adjusted
71
Q

Complications of allocations for negociants

A

Certain amount of wine negociant is allowed to buy from chateau

  • must buy to secure future allocations in great vintages
  • poor vintages may end up unsold
72
Q

All of the top Left Bank estates are planted on gravel mounds. What are these mounds called?

A

croupes

73
Q

Which hazards are there to grape growing in Bordeaux?

A 
Botrytis bunch rot
Frost
Downy mildew
Powdery mildew
Hail
Excessive rain
74
Q

Vintages with severe frost

A

2017
1991
1956

75
Q

Vintages with extreme heat

A

2003

2005

76
Q

he tradition in Bordeaux for top quality vineyards is to plant closely spaced vines. How many vines are typically planted per hecatre?

A

10.000

77
Q

Are vines in Bordeaux usually cane pruned or spur pruned?

A

Cane pruned

78
Q

Match the trellising systems to the areas where they’re most commonly used in Bordeaux.

A

Left Bank —- Double Guyot
Right Bank ——- Single Guyot

Cordon trained, spur pruned is rare in Bordeaux, although some prestigious estates favour it, arguing that it reduces yields naturally and gives better aeration to the bunches.

79
Q

Effects of excessive rain at key moments of growing season

A

Flowering
- poor fruit set

Through growing season
- increased disease pressure

At and following veraison
- unripe fruit and fungal diseases

Harvest
- dilution of flavours

80
Q

Advantages and disadvatages of high density

A

Advantages

  • suitable for relatively infertile soils
  • moderating vigour
  • best use of expensive land

Disadvantages

  • adds cost for plats and trellising
  • specialist over-the-row tractors needed
  • more time spent on vine training, and spraying
81
Q

What four factors determine the level of botrytis in the final sweet wines of Bordeaux?

A

whether conditions are correct for spread of noble rot

position of estate (proximity to areas where mist forms)

Willingness of estates to wait for the best times to harvest and risk loosing some crop due to adverse conditions

willingness to pay several passes to select botrytis affected grapes

82
Q

What is the name of the unique commercial system in Bordeaux?

A

La place de Bordeaux

83
Q

Briefly describe why the Saint-Émilion classification has proven controversial.

A

2006 Lawsuits from demoted properties

Use of the term “Grand Cru” for the lowest tier of the classification, which is deemed misleading by many outside the region.

84
Q

Why is classified growth so expensive

A 
Vine density
Harvest costs
Hugely higher viticultural costs
Lower yields
Rigorous grape selection
Barrel ageing (both the cost of a higher proportion of new barrels and extended time in barrel).

D3: Wines of the World COPY HENRY (30 decks)

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