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Ch. 2 – Bordeaux Flashcards

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1
Q

History of Bordeaux

A

17th century - land unsuitable for viti was drained by Dutch residents

Bordeaux - long been centre of wine exports

1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris
- classification based on price in Medoc and Graves
- 5 bands (Sauterrnes 3 bands)
- essentially unaltered til today

111,000 ha planted (70% inexpensive or mid-priced)

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2
Q

Bordeaux climate

A

Moderate maritime climate
- cooling influence of Atlantic
- sufficient rainfall
- relatively dry autumn

Left bank - partially protected from Atlantic by pine forests (Landes)
- northern Medoc is more open to ocean

Rainfall is variable
- excessive rain is factor of vintage variation
- climate change - drier conditions
- fungal disease threat

Right bank - less maritime influence (still a factor)

Frost risk further from Gironde (river has moderating effect)

Hail has been an issue in recent years

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3
Q

Climatic conditions supporting balance of wine in Bordeaux

A

Cooling influence of Atlantic

Gentle heat during growing season

Sufficient rainfall to promote ripening

Relatively dry autumn for steady and complete ripening

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4
Q

Rainfall in Bordeaux and its consequences in growing season

A
  • excessive rain is factor of vintage variation

950mm on average

Flowering
- poor fuit set
Through growing season
- increased disease pressure
Following veraison
- unripe fruit and fungal diseases
Harvest
- diluted flavours

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5
Q

Soils of the Left bank

and its qualities

A

All top estates are planted on gravel mounds (croupes)

Soil is not very deep

Drains well - roots dry out fast after rain
- in hot years can mean risk of drought stress (especially on shallow soils)

Great heat retention (releases heat at night to promote slow ripening)

More robust (less acclaimed) wines on clay pockets

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6
Q

Soils Right bank

A

Far more clay but still with significant patches of gravel
- dominated by Merlot

Limestone plateau and gravel section on borders of Pomerol

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7
Q

Merlot

A

Early budding (vulnerable to frost)
Mid ripening (picked before autumn rain)

Susceptible to coulure, drought, botrytis
- sorting necessary

Can ripen fully in colder years

Dominant on Right bank and cooler northern Medoc

Contributes with med to pronounced intensity
- cold years: strawberry, red plum, herbaceous flavours
- hot years: cooked blackberry, black plum
Med tannins
Med to high alcohol

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8
Q

Cabernet Sauvignon (Bordeaux)

A

Late budding (protected from frost)
Ripens late (needs warmer soils, vulnerable to autumn rains)

Small, thick-skinned (high tannin content)

Prone to fungal diseases
- powdery mildew
- trunk diseases Eutypa and Esca

Highest quality on warm, well-drained soils - gravel of Medoc

Contributes with violet, blackcurrant, black cherry, menthol or herbaceous flavours
–med alcohol
–high acidity
–high tannin

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9
Q

Cabernet Franc (contribution to Bordeaux blend)

A

Contributes with:
–Red fruit
–high acidity
–medium tanin

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10
Q

Malbec (Bordeaux)

A

mainly replanted with Merlot after frost of 1956

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11
Q

Petit Verdot (Bordeaux)

A

Buds early, ripens later than Cabernet Sauvignon
- difficult to grow in Bordeaux (but valued)

Prone to spring frost
Fails to ripen in cool years
Vulnerable to rain around harvest

Does best on warmer parts of Medoc

Often less than 5% of blend

Powerfull, deeply coloured wines
–Spice notes
–High tannins

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12
Q

Semillon (Bordeaux)

A

Mid-ripening

Susceptible to botrytis and noble rot in right conditions

High yields

Light intensity apple, lemon, grassy
Med body, med alcohol, med (med+ acidity)
- often softens Sauvignon Blanc’s more intense flavours and acidity

Strong affinity with vanilla and sweet spice from French oak

Botrytis affected: honey, dried fruit (lemon, peach) waxy texture

Ageability - toast, honey

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13
Q

Sorting in Bordeaux

A

Depends on value of wine and quality of the vintage

High quality wine
- sorted in the vineyard
- by hand on vibrating belt
- optical sorting

If vintage is good - less sorting

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14
Q

Harvesting/vinifying more plots in Bordeaux

A

Many producers vinify plot by plot
- for optimum ripeness (different harvest times)
- creating material for blending
- requires more smaller vessels (adds cost)

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15
Q

Fermentation of red wine in Bordeaux

A

Closed vats with pump-overs

Mostly cultured yeast

Vessels: wood, stainless, concrete (with temp control)

Temperature - depends on style and vintage
- inexpensive - mid temp (5-7 days of maceration)
- Premium - mid to warm (14-30 days of maceration)

Maceration is reduced in poor vintages if fruit is not fully ripe

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16
Q

Pressing in Bordeaux

A

Pneumatic press or modern hydraulic, vertical press
- gentle extraction

Winemaker decides on % of press wine (adds structure and tannin)

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17
Q

Malolactic in Bordeaux

A

in tank or barrel

Many producers go for rapid completion (cellars may be heated)
- for wines to be tasted following spring by journalists

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18
Q

Maturation in Bordeaux

A

Simple styles
- steel, concrete or large vats
- 4-6 months
- oak chips may be added

Premium
- French oak barriques
- mix of first, second and three year old
- up to 100% new (trend is decreasing)
- usually med to med plus toasting
- 18-24 months (depending on quality)
- more concentrated wines need longer
- traditionally racked each 3 months

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19
Q

Blending in Bordeaux

A

2 approaches:

Early (spring after harvest)
- to present wines in spring
- blending over winter
- near-final blend
- deselection of wine for second or third label and bulk to sell

Few months before bottling
- blending team can assess evolution of each variety and lot before making decision

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20
Q

Muscadelle

A

Very prone to botrytis

Contributes with flowery, grapey notes

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21
Q

Planting density in Bordeaux

A

10,000 vines per hectare
- suitable for relatively infertile soils
- moderates vigour
- adds cost for plants and trellising
- special over the row tractors
- more time needed for management
- best use of expensive land

Less prestigious appellations often planted at lower density

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22
Q

Vine training in Bordeaux

A

Cane pruning (most common)
- canes trained along wires
- Double Guyot (Left Bank)
- Single Guyot (Right Bank)

Cordon-pruned (rare)
- spur-pruned
- natural reduction of yield and aeration to bunches

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23
Q

Canopy management in Bordeaux

A

Leaf removal in summer
- improve aeration and deter rot
- aids ripening

‘Soft pruning’ to fight Eutypa dieback and Esca

Pruning short in winter instead of greenharvesting
- better vine balance

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24
Q

Average yield in Bordeaux

A

50 hl/ha average

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25
Harvest in Bordeaux
Teams are hired for longer periods - expected paid idleness Workers from other EU countries Remote or high yielding sites are picked by machine
26
Rose winemaking in Bordeaux
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon mainly In the past made by bleeding off (by-product) - deeper coloured Clairet Now direct pressing - lighter coloured rose
27
White winemaking in Bordeaux
Pressed directly at arrival or left on skins (up to 24h) Inexpensive - cold ferment in steel Mid range - left on fine lees for 6-12 months Higher quality - fermented and aged in barriques (proportion new) - many block malo - may use batonnage
28
Viticulture for sweet wine in Bordeaux
Yields kept very low - pruning to low levels of buds - removal of any fruit showing disease or damage - max yield 25 hl/ha (Sauternes and Barsac) - below 10 hl/ha is common at top estates Harvest can last from September to November - up to 12 passes
29
Level of Botrytis in Sauternes depends on:
Whether conditions are correct for spread of noble rot Proximity to areas where mist forms Willingness to wait for the best times to harvest and risk losing some fruit due to weather Willingness to pay pickers for multiple passes
30
Winemaking options for sweet wine in Bordeaux
Ferment in steel, concrete or barriques Aged for varying periods in any of those containers Top-quality typically barrel-ferment with high proportion of new oak and barrel aged for 18-36 months - encouraging gentle oxidation - new oak from 30 to 50% - Yquem 100% new oak Less prestigious wines are often unoaked
31
Bordeaux generic appellations
Bordeaux AOC - max yields fairly high Bordeaux Superieur AOC - max yields a bit lower Cover the whole region Together 50% of wine in Bordeaux Mainly Merlot Med intensity red fruit --high acidity --med+ tannins --med body and alcohol --Inexpensive to mid priced --acceptable to good
32
Left bank red wine appellations
Médoc AOC Haut-Médoc AOC Saint-Estèphe AOC Pauillac AOC Saint-Julien AOC Margaux AOC Listrac-Médoc AOC Moulis AOC
33
Right Bank red wine appellations
Saint-Émilion AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC Saint-Émilion satellites - Montagne Saint-Émilion AOC - Lussac-Saint-Émilion AOC Pomerol AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol AOC
34
Médoc AOC and Haut-Médoc AOC
Reds only Max yields are moderate Médoc - far north end Haut-Médoc - includes Left Bank individual communes - warm gravelly sites - 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot - Gironde moderating influence - high proportion of gravel - pronounced blackcurrant, green bell pepper, red plum, vanilla and cedar - med to high alcohol, high tannins, med+ bodied Wide range of prices and quality
35
Saint-Estèphe AOC
Most northerly and coolest More Merlot than other communes - more clay (better water retention - helps in dry years) Rustic wines which need many years in bottle (cool climate) to soften tannins No first growths
36
Pauillac AOC
High proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon - many top estates have 70-80% of Cabernet in blend High concentration and longevity Most structured wine of Left Bank High tannins, High acidity 3 first growths (85% classified wines) Château Lafite Rothschild Château Latour Château Mouton Rothschild
37
Saint-Julien AOC
High proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon High proportion of classified growth Homogenous gravel soils Mid-way between powerful structure of Pauillac and finesse of Margaux No first growth but 5 second growths
38
Margaux AOC
high proportion of classified growth 1 first growth Slightly less Cabernet Sauvignon than in the other 3, but still Cab-dominant Further south - vines ripen few days earlier - can be advantage against autumn rains Perfumed wines with silky tannins
39
Listrac-Médoc AOC and Moulis AOC
Further from the riveer - benefit less from moderating influence of river - less gravel Typically good to very good, mid priced to premium
40
Graves AOC
white and red (but 85% is red) max yields are moderate Graves Superieures AOC - late picked and/or botrytis affected sweet wines
41
Pessac-Léognan AOC
Sub region of Graves AOC Gravel soils and moderating effect of Garonne - known for high-quality reds and high-quality barrel fermented and aged whites One First Growth (and all Cru classe of Graves) --Château Haut-Brion Max yield 54 hl/ha for both white and red White - Blend of SB and Semillon - pronounced gooseberry, lemon, grapefruit, vanilla, clove - med + body, med+ (high) acidity, med (high) alcohol Reds are similar in style to Medoc
42
Entre-Deux-Mers AOC
White wine only (red wine is produced but labelled Bordeaux) max yields are high acceptable to good
43
Saint-Émilion AOC and Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC
Both cover the same area Red wine only Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC has lower max yields and longer minimum maturation (20 months, rather than 6) Dominated by Merlot (60%) and then Cabernet Franc Has its own classification system Wide range of quality Best examples have pronounced black plum, vanilla, clove, full body, high alcohol, med+ (high) acidity, med +(high) tannins
44
Saint-Émilion Satellites
4 AOCs close to Saint-Émilion but further away from Dordogne same rules as Saint-Émilion Montagne-Saint-Émilion AOC Lussac-Saint-Émilion AOC
45
Pomerol AOC
Red wine only (Merlot dominated - 80%) Max yield 49 hl/ha No classification system but many top-quality estates - in style similar to Saint-Émilion Small size estates - small production leads to high prices --Pétrus Pronounced black plum, vanilla, clove, full body high acohol, med+ (high) acidity, med+ (high) tannins Ages very well
46
Côtes de Bordeaux
Red and white Right bank Number of communes can connect their name before the AOC - Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux - Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux - Casillon Côtes de Bordeaux - Francs Côtes de Bordeaux Max yields are moderate.. lower is the commune name is appended
47
Côtes de Bourg AOC
- Merlot dominated - similar in style and price to Medoc AOC - Focus on Malbec with 10% of hectares
48
Sauternes and Barsac AOC
80% Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle Cold Ciron River meets with warmer Garonne River - promoting morning mist - mist burns off by midday - afternoon sunshine Max yield 25 hl/ha (in reality much lower) Pronounced citrus peel, honey, mango, vanilla, full body, high alcohol, med (med+) acidity, sweet finish Lack of demand - dry wines also produced now
49
Alternative sweet wine appellations in Bordeaux
Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC Loupiac AOC Premieres Cotes de Bourdeaux AOC All have higher max yields than Sauternes
50
1855 Classification
Wines of the Medoc were ranked into First to Fifth Growths - includes Chateau Haut-Brion in Graves Wines of Sauternes ranked into First and Second Growth Based on prices then being achieved Must be bottled at the estate
51
Classification system in Graves
list based on pricing, fame, and quality as judged by tasting 16 classified chateaux for red, white, or both
52
Classification system in Saint-Émilion
Revised at approx 10 year intervals Judged on: - terroir - methods of production - reputation - commercial considerations - blind tasting of at least 10 vintages 3 tiers: - Premier Grand Cru Classe A - Premier Grand Cru Classe B - Grand Cru Classe
53
The Crus Bourgeois du Medoc classification
Level below Cru Classe (still superior quality) - awarded annually to individual wines, not to chateaux - based on production methods and finished product From 2018 vintage on, chateaux classified into 3 tiers: - Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnel - Crus Bourgeois Superieur - Crus Bourgeois - classification will last 5 years
54
Problems of classification systems in Bordeaux
Controversial --Using Grand Cru in St Emilion appellation name is confusing --Many high quality estates are not included in Graves classification --Saint-Émilion lawsuit dented its reputation
55
Wine business in Bordeaux
Number of estates is shrinking (taken over by larger neighbours) Average size is over 19ha Annual production over 800 mil bottles Cooperatives are important (1/4 of production from 40% of growers) Two distinct markets: - Majority of wine is inexpensive - has struggled to increase prices - falling domestic demand - competition from other countries - En primeur sales
56
What factors contribute to the higher price for premium bottlings in Bordeaux?
vine density harvest costs higher viticulture costs lower yield rigorous grape selection barrel ageing land price
57
La Place de Bordeaux
Chateau sells to a negociant via a broker (courtier) The negociant then sells it on to wholesalers or retailers Each party charges % for their services --Courtier typically takes 2% --Negociant typically takes 15% Chateau sells to number of negociants (allocation system)
58
En Primeur (Bordeaux)
Classed growths and other high quality wines Wine is sold 12-18 months before it is bottled - spring following harvest - consumers secure hard-to-buy bottles at lower price - estate benefits from early payment Price includes transportation - it is ex-cellar - excludes any taxes that will be due in the final market
59
En Primeur procedure
April following harvest - barrel samples are provided for journalists and buyers May/June - Chateau releases prices (usually through negociant) - first tranche (to test what market is prepared to pay) - Depending on sales of first tranche, second tranche is released and price adjusted
60
Complications of allocations for negociants in Bordeaux
Certain amount of wine negociant is allowed to buy from chateau - must buy to secure future allocations in great vintages - poor vintages may end up unsold
61
Which hazards are there to grape growing in Bordeaux?
Botrytis bunch rot Frost Downy mildew Powdery mildew Hail Excessive rain
62
Lalande-de-Pomerol
Satellite appellation allowing slightly higher yields

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