Ch.3 – Port Flashcards

(86 cards)

1
Q

What is Port?

A
  • a sweet, fortified wine from the Douro region of Portugal
  • made from over 100 grape varieties
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
2
Q

How did Port come about?

A
  • Trade wars between France & England in 17thC meant England increased trade with Portugal
  • Popular dry powerful red wines were stabilised with brandy for voyage
  • British merchants visited Abbot of Lamego, preferred his sweet wine (fortified during fermentation), and shipped it all to England
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
3
Q

When and how did most port houses start out?

A
  • In the 17th C when France-England trade wars led to increased England-Portugal trade/ sales of port grew
  • Kopke (1638) Warre (1729) Croft (1707) Taylor’s (1692) all became Port shippers
  • Shippers traditionally agents taking commission for shipping port abroad or acquiring port from brokers and storing it in “lodges” (cellars/warehouses) in Vila Nova de Gaia (across River Douro to Porto)
  • Most now dominant players with own vineyards, wineries and bottling facilities
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
4
Q

Port in the 18th Century

A
  • 1703 Methuen Treaty gave Portugal lowest duty rates
  • Port too popular - mass of poor quality, thin spirits, colour bolstered with elderflower juice - demand slumped - oversupply, prices dropped.
  • So in 1756 Portugeuse PM Marquēs de Pombal official
    • regulations and demarcation of Port vineyards
    • created Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro (aka Real Companhia Velha)
  • Real Companhia Velha
    • sold all port for exports
    • fixed prices
    • exclusive supplier of fortification spirit
  • not everyone happy, but quality and sales increases
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
5
Q

History of port in 19th Century

A
  • Challenging
    • Peninsular Wars
    • Portuguese Civil War
    • Mildew
    • Phylloxera
    • Many small growers sold land/ property
    • Shippers took advantage of low prices - vineyards and quintas (estates)
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
6
Q

What key events happened in the 1930s in the Port industry?

A
  • 1933 Instituto do Vinho do Porto (IVP)
    • admin & supervision of Port industry
  • 1932 Casa do Douro
    • a secondary authority to supervise growers within the Port demarcation
  • Vineyard parcels in Douro rated A to I based on suitability for making port - classification remains today in the Beneficio
  • the IVP also controlled the purchase of the aguardente (the fortifying spirit)
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
7
Q

What was Casa do Douro and what happened to it?

A
  • 1932 Casa do Douro a secondary authority to supervise growers within the Port demarcation, controlled the purchase of the aguardente until IVP in 1933
  • 1990 controversially bought 40% of big shipper Royal Oporto - to allow growers to trade own products. Failed, Casa do Douro bankrupt
  • 2003 new interprofessional body IVDP (Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro created to supervise both Port & Douro producers (reflects growing importance of dry wines of Douro)
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
8
Q

What major initiatives to improve quality occurred in Port in the 1980s and 1990s

A
  • the World Bank Scheme offered low-interest loans to Douro growers to plant/replant up to 10 hectares
    • of A or B grade vineyard
    • with 5 prescribed grapes Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional, Tinto Cão
  • major shippers (incl Cockburn’s, Ferreira, Ramos Pinto) & local university funded vineyard research; 2500 ha planted the 5 grapes on patamares (wider terraces)
  • 1986 Portugal in EU, by 1991 producers sourced own aguardente and quality improved
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
9
Q

Latest developments in Port?

A
  • new improved patamares design
  • alongside the 5 major grapes, other local varieties being used for characteristics can bring to the blend
  • Depopulation in vineyard areas has meant alternative solutions to foot-treading (“modern/robotic lagares”) now prevalent
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
10
Q

Where is Port made?

A
  • Douro region, N-E of Portugal
  • 250,000 ha in region
    • of which 43,500ha vineyards,
    • of which 32,000ha registered for DO Porto (production of port)
  • Vineyard area follows River Douro. 3 sub-regions
    • Baixo Corgo (west nr Atlantic, wet, basic grapes)
    • Cima Corgo (middle, top vineyards/grapes)
    • Duoro Superior (east, most inland, hot, flatter, some premium, some mechanisation)
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
11
Q

Climate of Douro

A
  • Warm continental - 40C in summer, can freeze in winter
  • Winding river/tributaries, hills, differing altitudes (0-1000m+) & aspects = microclimates - even within single vineyard - diurnal range, good acidity
  • Vineyard area 70km from coast (and cities Porto and Vila Nova di Gaia) sheltered by Serra do Marão to west.
  • Baixo Corgo westerly, nearest Atlantic, coolest, wettest 900mm- produces grapes inexpensive Ruby/Tawny
  • Cima Corgo middle, warmer, drier 700mm, Age-Indicated Tawny & Vintage ports. Best known producers have vineyards here
  • Douro Superior furthest from coast, hottest, driest 450mm, drought an issue, more sparsely planted, flatter land allows mechanisation, plantings increasing
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
12
Q

Soils of the Douro

A
  • Stony, shallow, free-draining, poor in nutrients - limits vigour.
  • Schist bedrock unusually fractured vertically allows roots to penetrate deep to find water. Irrigation only permitted in extreme drought.
  • Schist vital - vineyards follow schist, because in wider area granite impenetrable.
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
13
Q

Name the three types of vineyard layouts in the Douro

A
  1. Socalcos traditional, narrow terraces, dry rock walls
  2. Patamares wider terraces, steep earth ramps, not walls
  3. Vinha ao Alto vines planted vertically up & down: good for mechanisation.
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
14
Q

Pros & cons of socalcos?

A
  • Describe: Narrow terraces supported by walls of dry rock
  • traditional vineyard layout in Douro
  • PROS
  • 2 rows per terrace: high densities 6000 vines/ha
  • allows grape planting on steep slopes (+30% gradients)
  • prevent soil erosion
  • look nice
  • CONS
  • Labour intensive (work by hand, also maintain walls, small tractor possible if lower density planted)
  • uneven ripening as inner row shaded by outer
  • UNESCO protected (cannot change)
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
15
Q

Pros & cons of Patamares

A
  • Describe: (modern) vineyard terraces in the Douro, wider than Socalcos, supported by steep earth ramp, not stone wall, to allow mechanisation (tractors). 2 kinds
    • Original form: wider 2 row terraces, made by bulky bulldozers. Diagonol ramps. Pros cheaper to build & maintain, not UNESCO protected, mechanisation. Cons - uneven ripeness of one row shading other. Reduced vine density 3-3500 vines/ha. Wasted space - access ramps. Weeds on ramps. Soil erosion.
    • New improved narrow 1 row terrace, precision (laser technology), often tilted toward slope & from one side terrace to other for water retention/drainage/ reduce erosion. 1 row - less uneven ripeness. Less wasted space.
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
16
Q

Pros & Cons of Vinha ao Alto

A
  • Vertical planting up & down slopes
  • Pros:
    • least expensive to plant & maintain
    • allows q high density 5000 vines/ha
    • can be mechanised
  • Cons
    • mechanisation unuseable above 40% incline
    • water run-off/ erosion
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
17
Q

Vine training in the Douro

A
  • Cordon trained/ spur-pruned OR head-trained and cane-pruned AND VSP trellised
    • Promotes even sun exposure/ ripening
    • allows mechanisation where viable
  • Summer pruning (e.g. leaf removal) throughout growing season, esp. for late ripening varieties.
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
18
Q

Root-stocks used in the Douro

A
  • V. rupestris & v. berlanieri 110R and 1103P because drought tolerant
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
19
Q

What are key considerations when replanting in the Douro

A
  • Increasing vine density
  • Vineyard layouts that allow mechanisation
  • Best grapes/rootstock for that precise area of land (even diff varieties on same terrace)
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
20
Q

Maximum yield for Port wine production?

A
  • 55hl/ ha but drought and other hazards us mean 30hl/ha
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
21
Q

Risks, pests and hazards in the Douro

A
  • late spring frosts esp at altitude
  • early summer cool wet weather from West (at flowering and fruit set)
  • Downy mildew, botrytis bunch rot - esp in wetter Baixo Corgo (solution canopy management/ fungicide spray)
  • poor soils - can fertilise
  • weeds on patamares slopes (compete for water/ nutrients - herbicides, poss mower)
  • erosion, esp on vinha ao alta slopes - cover crops (help with nutrition/ weeds) Organic/ sustainable growing
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
22
Q

Harvesting in the Douro

A
  • Us by hand as most topography unsuitable for machines
  • Ageing regional population/ depopulation is an issue
    • Symington Family Estates (largest single grower) developing machine to harvest if no pickers
  • Climate means starts in Douro Superior, ends in Baixo Corgo.
  • As diff microclimates, diff grapes, mainly hand-harvest, takes several weeks
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
23
Q

What grapes are permitted in the production of port?

A
  • over 100, with field blends still used by many small producers. Good insurance!
  • since 1980s focus on five (grants/ research/ clones)
    • Touriga Franca
    • Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo, Aragonez other Portugal)
    • Tinta Barroca
    • Touriga Nacional
    • Tinta Amarela (Tricadeira other Portugal)
  • Also major - Tinta Cão, Sousão
  • white grapes
    • Malvasia Fina (Boal in Madeira)
    • Moscatel Galego Branco (aka Muscat Blanc a Petit Grains)
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
24
Q

Which is most grown, popular grape for Port

A
  • Touriga Franca
  • Pros
    • late ripening (good for low, South face hot sites)
    • thick skinned, resists fungal
    • Colour, tannin, acidity, juicy red & black fruit, floral aromas
  • Cons
    • Vigorous - can need summer pruning
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
25
What is **tempranillo** called in Port and what does it contribute?
* **Tinta Roriz** (also Aragonez elsewhere in Portugal) * **Early ripening**, prone to water stress (likes **cool sites**, elevation) * **Body,** deep colour * Need to **limit high yield** as can get dilute
26
**Touriga Nacional'**s role in Port?
* Pros * **(Best Grape)** Mid-ripening, thick-skinned, **deep colour,** high tannins, med high acid, concentrated black fruit, **violets, floral** aromas. * Long-ageing, important in premium * Cons * **Over-vigour** can require summer pruning * coulure (lowers yields)
27
Describe **Tinta Barroca**
* Key grape in port * Early ripening, best on **coolest sites** (high, N facing Baixo Corgo, Cima Corgo) to retain acidity and avoid heat damage/ shrivelling * **Earthy flavours**, colour fades quicker, can lack acidity, but **high yielding**
28
What is Trincadeira called in Port and what does it contribute?
* **Tinta Amarela** * Tight bunches, so prone to fungal diseases * Full-bodied, concentrated black fruits, **spicy** notes, **approachable young** but can age
29
Tinta Cão
* important key grape - in 1980s scheme * low yielding, thick skinned, resistant to fungus * ripens late, **heat tolerant** * concentrated wine, **spicey, high acidity, age well**
30
Sousão
* Increasingly popular thick skinned grape for Port * **deep** colour * retains **high acidity**
31
What are the key white grapes for Port production?
* **Malvasia Fina** (Boal in Madeira) * neutral, med acidity, full-body, slight honey * **Moscatel Galego Branco** (Muscat Blanc a Petit Grains) * aromatic, often used in unaged styles
32
The advantage of a wide range of varieties in Port?
* Differing characteristics * Reduce vintage variation (eg cool wet years disrupt some varities more than others) * Spread out the harvest (us hand / labour intensive) so can pick all at optimum ripeness * Old wines (vinha velha) key part in premium/ super-premium Ports
33
What is Port's challenge with extraction?
* It needs to be very effective * Port is made by stopping fermentation by adding grape spirit to create sweet wine (usually 80-120g/L residual sugar). * Therefore maceration with the skins to extract all tannins and colours can only last a maximum of two days - requires very effective extraction methods.
34
What are the options for extraction in port?
1. Foot treading in lagares 2. Modern lagares 3. Pumping over 4. Stainless-steel pistons 5. Autovinifiers
35
What are **lagares** and how have they been modernised?
* **Traditional lagares** are shallow (0.8m) square granite tanks for treading grapes - large surface area between must and grape skins. Still used some premium ports. * Foot-treading effective extractor, gentle enough not to crush seeds (bitter tannins). People add heat to ferment. * **Modern lagares** (aka robotic lagares) silicon "feet" on stainless steel gantry, press grapes onto lagar floor and later punch down cap. Quality equal to foot treading. * Initial investment higher, but no need for large hired unreliable workforce.
36
Apart from lagares name three other extraction techniques used in Port production
1. **Pumping over** - can produce ports deep colour/tannin, but not as effective as lagares. Used for non-fortified too 2. **Stainless-steel pistons** - open stainless-steel vats, pistons punch down cap to programme. Used together with pumping over for a more even extraction. Then seem **as good as lagares.** 3. **Autovinifiers** - sealed concrete/ s-steel tanks manage cap w/o electricity. Rising CO2 pushes juice up pipes to holding tank until pressure valve triggered & releases wine sprayed over cap. * No electricity, so cheap, but reliant on CO2, so very little extraction _before_ fermentation, and results in lighter colour, body and flavour - basic Tawny, White & Ruby Ports.
37
Advantages of stainless steel fermentation vessels in Port (though some use granite, concrete or old wood for small volume wines)
* easy cleaning * easy temperature control (if necessary cooling to slow fermentation & period of extraction)
38
Port fermentation temperatures
* RED 28-32C * warm enough to allow sufficient extraction, but not so warm as to accelerate fermentation and reduce the time needed for extraction * WHITE 17-22C * fruity, unoxidised 17-18C with Moscatel Galego Branco major part of blend * oxidised style 20-22C with Malvasia Fina major part of blend
39
Are Port grapes de-stemmed before fermentation?
* Not necessarily. If ripe, stems can aid pressing (reduce compaction of pomace and improve drainage)
40
Yeasts used in Port?
* Often **ambient**, as sufficient to start ferment in warm temperature (28-32C) and no need to completely ferment.
41
What is different about the fortification of port compared to other fortified wines?
* Legislation: spirit (**aguardente**) to fortify must come from grapes/ grape-derived products & be 77% abv (+/- 0.5%) * Low compared to 95-96% of other fortifieds * 95% is neutral, 77% has more character, why Port has spirity aromas. * Because of lower alcohol, need 1 L of spirit for every 4 L of fermenting must to produce wine of 20% abv, so style & quality of the aguardente has significant influence
42
Where do Port producers source their aguardente?
* Since 1991 (EU law) wherever they want * From 1967-76 had to buy from Casa do Douro * 1976 IVP tendered contract and all producers had to use same cheap spirit from Portugal, then France * Now producers better understanding * some neutral to show wine's character * some aromatic (fruity esters) to add character * high quality added to premium wines: affects price
43
When and how is fermentation stopped in Port?
* When wine reaches sugar concentration producer wants (80-120 g/L), alcohol 5-7%. Will depend on house style. * Wine is drained from skins and aguardente added, the spirit kills the yeast cells and fermentation stops
44
Why is quick drainage after fermentation important in Port production?
* Because the wine is drained from the skins before the aguardente is added, so fermentation will continue, using up sugar that may be desired in the final wine. * Modern vessels (incl modern lagares) are designed to drain v quickly, compared to the traditional lagares - can take hours.
45
What happens to the grape skins left after draining?
* They will be pressed & press wine blended into fortified free run wine to provide greater colour and tannin - important for wines to undergo long ageing
46
Acidification in port?
* **Common** * Port grapes are picked when flavours/tannins ripe (pot alcohol not an issue), so acidity can be low and PH high
47
Malolactic conversion in Port?
* **No.** Lactic acid bacteria cannot tolerate high concentration of alcohol in the wine after fortification.
48
What happens to Port after fermentation and fortification?
* All Ports spend first winter in Douro * Wines are left to clarify before being racked off the gross lees. Then **rotary vacuum filter** to extract remaining wine from lees. * In Spring wines may be shipped to lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia for maturation (cooler, more constant temperature - Atlantic influence); but tourism & congestion means increase in producers building insulated, humidity controlled lodges in vineyard area.
49
Blending in Port - when and why?
* At any time * V important (more varied stock held the better) * diff vineyard parcels * diff varieties (though often co-fermentation) * diff ages/vintages (complexity) * diff styles (vintage v ruby) but also for diff markets * consistency (NV and general House style) * price * volume * Also make wines differently as blending options eg * Range of young wines sweet to dry to use to adjust sweetness in final blend
50
What is Port matured in?
* Oak, even if short time * Sizes vary according to oxidation required * **Balseiros** (100,000l vats) store wines fresh * **Pipes** (600l barrels) gentle oxidation * Only old oak: don't want new oak aromas
51
Why is racking carried out during Port maturation?
1. **To remove accummulating lees** which could create off flavours 2. **To control the amount of oxidation** (more frequent, more O2, though topping up also affects that)
52
List all the styles of Port
1. Basic Ruby 2. Basic Tawny 3. Reserve Ruby/Tawny 4. Tawny with an indication of age 1. also very old, no age indicated super-premium 5. Colheita 6. Vintage 7. Single Quinta 8. Crusted 9. Late Bottle Vintage 10. Rosé Port 11. White Port
53
What influences the style of Port?
* Mainly quality of base wine and form of maturation * Minimum ageing wines **legally defined and analysed by IVDP** before permitted to label * Producers start to make decisions on grapes/styles during growing season - weather crucial - but producers can impact * re canopy management and harvest dates * in winery eg gentle extraction on least ripe grapes to avoid underripe flavours/tannins, so suited to less concentrated styles like basic Tawny
54
What is the difference between Basic Ruby and Reserve Ruby?
* **Basic** is med-body, med tannins, mix of red & black fruits * From wines not suitable long ageing (eg fruit not tannin) * Protective wine-making to retain primary fruits - stainless steel/concrete ferment, aged in bulk (steel/concrete or large old wood) for **max 3 yrs** * Blend of years, consistent style * Use cheap spirit (to hit low price point) so often slightly harsh alcohol * **Reserve Ruby** *no min age* requirement (unlike Reserve Tawny which is 7 yrs in wood) * **tasted/ approved by IVDP**'s tasting panel * more concentrated, higher quality and price than basic
55
What is the difference between Basic Tawny and Reserve Tawny?
* Basic Tawny shows some lightness of colour/browning but not from long oxidative ageing, instead **light extraction** (like rosé port) to _look_ older. * Fermenting must is drained early concentrating remaining wine which can be used to add more colour/flavour to Ruby Port. * Reserve Tawny higher quality/ more concentrated * Must be aged **min 6 years in wood** (unlike Reserve Ruby which has no min age)
56
Describe Tawny with an Indication of Age?
* Long ageing in wooden barrels (pipes 620-640l) * Controlled exposure to O2, over time tannins soften, alcohol integrates, primary become tertiary (dried fruits), oxidation (caramel, nuts). Old barrels so no oak flavours. * Long ageing means clarification and stabilisation occurs naturally in barrel, so **don't need filtration pre bottling**. * 10, 20, 30, 40 on label is "the characteristics of a wine that age" (IVDP panel) - NOT min or average age. Usually blend of diff vintages, can be older and younger * Must state year of bottling - important as these wines lose their freshness after bottling. * Relatively expensive (long ageing, need racking, topping up as evap), sales increasing, stocks decreasing, prices rising. * Quality can be extremely complex and concentrated - outstanding
57
Give two examples of a very old non-age indicated Tawny
* Taylor's Scion 150yrs + £2.5k bt * Grahams Ne Oublie (1882) £4.5k bt
58
Define Colheita Port
* **Tawny Port from single vintage** * Aged in **small barrels min 7 yrs** before bottling * Label must state vintage of wine _and_ year it was bottled * Producer can bottle according to demand eg once reached 7 years, could bottle part in one year, then more in following years * Wine in barrel can be topped up with wines/spirit to avoid ullage. * Usually cheaper than vintage ports, but some v old colheitas super-premium
59
What is key difference between Vintage Port and Tawny Port?
* Tawny Port is aged in barrels and when Tawny is bottled, it is ready to drink and will not improve in bottle. * Vintage Port is aged in bottle and will improve in bottle (depending on age)
60
What is a "declared vintage" in Port?
* Vintage Port - when grapes/ young wine exceptional * Producers register intention declare Vintage in 2nd year after harvest, **IVDP panel approve the young wine** * Some years everyone declares (2011, 2016), some years mixed (2015). * Market conditions matter: if 2 years in a row, second vintage may take sales from first (2017 and 2016 declared)
61
Describe the grapes in Vintage Port
* Very **high quality plots**, often shipper's own vineyards. * Some super-premiums from v select plots, old vines eg **Quinta do Noval's Nacional** (old, ungrafted vines) * **Touriga Franca** & **Touriga Nacional** key components - colour/tannin/flavour concentration for long term ageing
62
How do producers determine whether to declare a vintage?
* quality & ripeness of fruit from best vineyards * quality of lots (batches) of young wines stored in large old wooden vats to avoid too much oxidation * **tasted over next 2 years** * Those lots not suitable for Vintage may become Single Quinta, LBV, Crusted or poss even Tawny
63
Ageing of Vintage Ports
* Maximum of 3 years in large old wooden vessels, but majority bottled in 2nd Spring after harvest (**18-20mths in wood)**
64
What is the benefit of 18-20 months of wood ageing for young Vintage Ports
Allows small amount of **O2** = anthocyanin-tannin bonding which **stabilises colour** for long ageing in bottle
65
Are Vintage Ports fined and filtered before bottling?
No, so heavy sediment forms
66
Describe flavour profile of young vintage Ports
* Deep in colour, full-bodied, high tannins, pronounced intensity of ripe black fruit, sometimes floral notes. Can be **quite spirity** as alcohol takes time to integrate. * Very good to outstanding in quality
67
Why are Vintage Ports so profitable for Producers?
* Outstanding quality so (super) **premium priced** * Limited time in wooden vessels (us 18-20 mths) **early release** from winery.
68
Describe Single Quinta Port
* Grapes from one estate (Quinta) and one vintage * Made when grapes not good enough for Vintage declaration * eg Taylor's Quinta de Vargellas, Graham's Quinta dos Malvedos
69
What is Crusted Port?
* Non-vintage Port **aged in wood for up to 2 years** before bottling **without fining or filtration**: hence a deposit or "crust" forms in the bottle. * Label must state bottling date * After 3 years can include "bottle matured" on label (can release earlier w/o it) * Style can be similar to Vintage Port, can age a long time and usually good to very good, med-premium priced
70
LBV (Late Bottled Port)
* Single vintage wines, aged for 4-6 years in large old wood/ stainless steel to avoid oxidisation before bottling * This extra ageing makes the wines more approachable on release than Vintage Ports. * filtered (normal) or "unfiltered" * filtered bottled ready to drink (undecanted) because * fruit less quality than Vintage * longer ageing before bottling * More body/tannin/intensity than Ruby, good-v good, mid price
71
How do "unfiltered" LBVs differ from normal LBVs?
* "unfiltered" on label * Because they are unfiltered, they will improve in the bottle. * Tend to be more full-bodied, spend **4-5 years in wood then a few years in bottle** (LBVs 4-6 in wood or stainless steel before bottle and release) * if min 3 years in bottle "bottle matured" like Crusted * very good quality, can taste like young Vintage * us mid-priced
72
Rosé Port (aka Pink Port)
* Invented by Croft in late 2000s * Black grapes from coolest sites - altitude or Baixo Corgo * Must macerates few hours, before draining free run juice and clarifying (can also use lightest press juice) * Fermentation 15-16C to keep red berry fruit * Aguardente neutral & high quality (to not stand out) as less intense flavours/tannins * Bottle soon after fortification/ released within year * Inexpensive-mid priced, colour varies pale salmon to almost ruby. Flavour varies with producer.
73
What are the two basic styles of White Port?
1. **Fruity, unoxidised,** Moscatel dominated, aromatic, fruity & floral. Crushed grapes, add SO2, 2 hours maceration, chilled (limit O2), must is drained, pressed, juice fermented off skins at under 18C (normal white) to retain fruit. Stainless steel/ v large old oak short period. Lemon colour, med body, stone fruits/ floral notes 2. **Highly oxidised**, Malvasia dominated (subtle in youth, honeyed, nutty with age). Longer on skins, more phenolics to support ageing. Several yrs in small casks (like premium Tawny). Amber/brown, flavours of caramel, citurs peel, dried stone fruit, nuts 3. There is a half-way: slight oxidation, less oak aged - fresh fruit, but slight nuttiness.
74
White Port labelling options
* **Like Tawny Ports** * **Reserve** if aged in wood min 7 years * **Indication of Age** 10, 20, 30, 40 if characteristics deemed by IVDP tasting panel * **Colheita** if single vintage and min 7 years
75
Businesses involved in Port Production
* 21000 **growers** (43% less 0.5ha, 92% less 5 ha) * Most sell grapes to med/large producer or co-op * **Cooperatives** make 20% wine, mostly sold to producers * **Brokers** often employed to trade grapes & wine * 30-35 **producers** make significant volumes * **Top 5 make 80% vol** * Porto Cruz * Symington Family Estates * Sogrape * Fladgate Partnership * Sogevinus
76
Name the top 5 Port Shippers (producers) and their key brands
1. Porto Cruz: largest, with largest brand Gran Cruz 2. Symington Family Estates: Cockburn's, Dow's, Graham's, Warre's 3. Sogrape (Portugal's biggest wine co): Sandeman, Offley, Ferreira (and many non-port) 4. Fladgate Partnership: Taylor's, Fonseca, Croft, Kroh 5. Sogevinus: Burmester, Barros, Calem, Kopke
77
What is the IVDP and what does it do?
* 2003 **Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro** (succeeding IVP 1933) new interprofessional body created to govern & represent Port & Douro producers (reflects growing importance of dry wines of Douro) * _registers_ vineyards/ cos involved in wine prod/ shipping * regulates amount of Port _made_ in a year - the Beneficio * controls volume Port _released_ each year (1/3 shipper's total stocks) * _analyses/tastes_ Port to meet legally defined Port styles * helps _promote_ Port and unfortified wines from Douro
78
What is the beneficio?
Both * the amount of port must that can be produced in any one year and * the system that regulates it
79
What is the aim of the beneficio system?
to keep grape and wine prices stable through a balance of supply and demand
80
How are vineyards rated for the benefico system?
* Each vineyard parcel is classified according to its capacity to produce quality grapes for Port; eg location, altitude, soil, grape varieties etc * Each factor is given numerical value, total gives a letter A to I denoting how much Port can be made from parcel * A is highest quality; can make most wine. Vineyards below F cannot make Port, but unfortified wine or spirits
81
Who decides what the beneficio (amount of Port wine must that can be made) is each year?
* The three main bodies: * IDVP * growers * producers * They take into account market demand and current stocks, aiming to keep grape and wine prices stable
82
How does beneficio card trading work (or not?!)
* Landowners get card (certificate) for each parcel of land, and can trade that card for the grapes grown on it * in reality may be from different parcel of land * The beneficio sets prices for Port grapes - relatively high 1.2-1.4€ inside system, 0.25-0.4 outside * So growers give lesser quality grapes as beneficio cards (guaranteed a high price), and sell their best quality grapes on open market (no price controls, will get higher price) * Producers may then substitute the inferior beneficio grapes for their own high quality grapes that are not part of beneficio system to make a better quality Port! * the inferior grapes may be used/ resold for unfortified wines
83
How do most Port grape growers make their money?
* Most growers **don't** make their own port. They make their money purely through beneficio trading * this means there is lots of trading * all transactions/payments must be recorded by and made through the IVDP, which monitors and controls the process.
84
Why do many producers feel the beneficio system does not help them?
* As demand for Port declines, the volume of Port has been reduced to avoid oversupply * Yet at the same time total vineyard area has been allowed to grow, leading to oversupply of grapes for unfortified Douro wines * As prices for these grape are not fixed by the beneficio, grape prices plummeted * **Port producers feel they are subsidising the industry for unfortified Douro wines by paying artificially high prices for Port grapes.**
85
Port sales
* Production in 2017 82m litres, **sales 75m** litres * Steady decline after 3 decades of growth 1970-2000 * **82% Port by vol exported** * France is largest market, then domestic Portuguese. But cheap Port drunk as an aperitif in these markets and Holland. * Yet increase in av price - premium ports like age-indicated Tawny up - better quality/ marketing * Special categories (everything above standard Ruby, Tawny, White & Rosé) 23% sales vol, 45% value
86
How are Port producers trying to revive fortunes?
* Symington, Qunita do Noval, Ramos Pinto, Niepoort all diversified into still unfortified wines * It is hoped growing popularity of Douro still wines may attract new markets to Port wines * Expansion of Rosé and White Ports, both as aperitifs & cocktail mixers - white Port v gin with tonic lower alcohol * Further potential in Premium re Ports in hospitality eg Graham's 4.5L Tawny Ports presented to customers as digestifs create great social media photos.