Champagne Flashcards

Question

How many growers are in the champagne collective and how much of the wine do they produce?

Answer 1

20,000 growers. 25%

Answer 2

10% the contrôlée des structures prohibits any firm from farming more than 15 owned or rented hectares

Answer 3

A consortium of growers and merchants formed to develop quality standards and regulate pricing of grapes in Champagne

Answer 4

In 1911 in Aube after they were excluded in 1908, plus fraud due to Phylloxera. Reinstated in 1927.

Answer 5

Remuage and Degorgement

Answer 6

Louis, Son of Charlemagne was crowned Reims in 816

Answer 7

Back in the 18th Century it implied effervescence in the Reds and Whites produced then.

Answer 8

Veuve Cliquot

Answer 9

Louis Roederer

Answer 10

1982, 1985, 1988, 1995, 1996

Answer 11

Moët & Chandon

Answer 12

Laurent Perrier

Answer 13

Pinot Noir

Answer 14

Pinot Meunier

Answer 15

The CIVC or Comite Interprofessional De Vin De Champagne

Answer 16

Co- operative De Manipulant, which refers to a group of growers who releases the champagne under the co- ops label.

Answer 17

Negotiant- Manipulant, which indicates a producer that buys grapes for the large scale producers of champagne

Answer 18

Piper Heidsieck

Answer 19

Canard Duchene

Answer 20

Recoltant- Manipulant, which indicates a producer that grows vinfies and bottles under their own label

Answer 21

1. Montagne De Reims 2. Valle De La Marne 3. Cote Des Blanc 4. Cote De Sezanne 5. Aube

Answer 22

Eschelle 100% Grand Cru 90- 99% Premier Cru 80- 89% Cru

Answer 23

Ay and Tours

Answer 24

Phillipponnat

Answer 25

Bruno Paillard

Answer 26

Joseph Perrier

Answer 27

Henry Giraud

Answer 28

Chanoine Freres

Answer 29

Comtes Des Dampierre

Answer 30

Duval Leroy

Answer 31

Recoltant- Cooperative, which means the grower is selling the champ. Made from their own grapes but produced by a co- op.

Answer 32

Belemite Chalk

Answer 33

The 1st 2050 Ltrs of must obtained from a press in champ.

Answer 34

Perrier- Jouet

Answer 35

The final 500 Ltrs of must obtained from a press in champ

Answer 36

The process of blending still wines to recreate a house style

Answer 37

A blend of sugar, yeast and a little tannin that will induce the 2nd ferment in bottle

Answer 38

The gradual breakdown of the yeast into lees (dead yeasts)

Answer 39

Where the dead yeasts or lees, are directed towards the neck of the bottle to be ready for removal, also known as riddling.

Answer 40

A machine invented by Spanish that performs riddling

Answer 41

The process of removing all of the lees that have accumulated at the neck of the bottle from the bottle

Answer 42

A small amount of sweetened wine added to the bottle after disgorgement. The amount of sugar syrup in the dosage will ultimately determine the style of wine. Also known as liqueur d' expedition

Answer 43

Champ made entirely from chard grapes

Answer 44

Champ made entirely from black grapes (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier)

Answer 45

Coates De Champagne

Answer 46

Cuvée Louise

Answer 47

Grand Signature

Answer 48

La Grande Dame

Answer 49

Dom Runiart

Answer 50

Magnum- 1.5 L- 2 bottles, Jeroboam- 3L- 4 bottles, Rehoboam- 4.5L- 6 bottles, Methuselah- 6L- 8 bottles, Salmanazar- 9L- 12 bottles, Balthazar- 12L- 16 bottles, Nebuchadnezzar- 15L- 20 bottles

Answer 51

AOC in champagne covering still wines

Answer 52

Continental, 48th parallel with lots of influence from the Atlantic. Average temp 20 degrees. Frost, rain, fungal disease, hail and winter freeze are hazards. Rain often interrupts flowering, creating bouvreux (second crop) that never ripens. Quality can vary from yr to yr.

Answer 53

Hills have porous belemite chalk (chepholopops, high limestone content) which absorbs heat and allows vine roots to dig deeply. Micraster (named after sea urchins) soil is in the valleys. In the Aube clay dominates.

Answer 54

Cordon De Royot Chablis Vallee De La Marne Guyot (double and simple)

Answer 55

Generally no. avg age is 20 yrs and lower productivity is not tolerated.

Answer 56

Late budding and early ripening for the cold environment.

Answer 57

17 Grand | 44 1er

Answer 58

Called Vin Clairs. Approx 11% alcohol. High acid. Stainless or (mostly) used barrels Sometimes MLF. Clarification through fining, filtration or centrifuge

Answer 59

Feb or March

Answer 60

Prise de Mousse

Answer 61

Approx 8 wks

Answer 62

Alcohol increases by 1.2- 1.3% and the CO2 to 5-6 atmospheres

Answer 63

12 mths minimum

Answer 64

504 bottles

Answer 65

Gets rid of Sulfur notes and youthful austerity

Answer 66

100% must come from stated vintage, yet a max 80% of harvest can be used for vintage usually brut and can age a decade.

Answer 67

Simple must come from one vineyard. Can be NV (though typically are vintage), can be a prestige.

Answer 68

The tete de cuvée

Answer 69

They put a black arm band on their bottles being shipped to the UK due to Sir Winston Churchill's death

Answer 70

Brut Nature: 0-3 g/L RS, Extra Brut: 0-6 g/L RS, Brut: 0-12 g/L RS, Extra Dry: 12-17 g/L RS, Dry: 17-32 g/L RS, Demi- Sec: 32-50 g/L RS, Doux: 50+ g/L RS

Answer 71

Consumer group of CIVC

Answer 72

Predominately Chardonnay

Answer 73

Very important, some 40-50 years old. Louis Orderer in oak barrels, Krug in Oak. Each house has different ways of making the wine. Help develop NV wines in bad years.

Answer 74

Good vintage, 7/10

Answer 75

Best vintage @ the moment 10/10 vintage. First of the new century.

Answer 76

1996: Stunning, 2005: Not the best, 06: Great but warm, hot in June- July

Answer 77

They have become so recently

Answer 78

Very good year, very warm, great quality and quantity

Answer 79

No MLF, own all vineyards, the rose uses the Saignee method- P/N picked, gently under contact in refrigeration

Answer 80

Continental Vintage

Answer 81

Used to be nutty, aldehydic, no longer wine in barrel, wines on corks in magnums, oxidative. Have cut back on the aldehydes/ sherry aromas.

Answer 82

Pinot Noir: Strength, Meunier: Frutiness, Chardonnay: Much more finesse

Answer 83

Champ/ Bordeaux- entrepreneur, 1980 established. Full MLF.

Answer 84

Long history, two families, Montagne De Reims, Cunard- Duchene: 1978 acquired by LVMH, but went downhill. 2003 bought by Alain Thienot, now getting back up.

Answer 85

1743, Epernay. LVMH. Imperial Brut (leading label), Dom Perignon (premium). 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Meunier, 20% Chardonnay

Answer 86

1772, Reims. LVMH. Yellow Label Brut (leading label), Lan Grande Dame (premium). 50% Pinot Noir, 20% Meunier, 30% Chardonnay.

Answer 87

1972, Chouilly. Co-op. Brut reserve (leading label), Palmes d' Or (premium), 40% Pinot Noir, 35% Meunier, 25% Chardonnay

Answer 88

1827, Reims, Pernod Ricard. Cordon Rouge (leading), Mumm de Cramant (premium), 45% Pinot Noir, 25% Meunier, 30% Chardonnay

Answer 89

1812, Tour- sur- Marne. Groupe Laurent- Perrier. Brut (leading), Grand Siecle (premium), 35% Pinot Noir, 15% Meunier, 50% Chardonnay

Answer 90

1734, Reims. Tattinger C.C.V.C, Brut reserve (leading), Comtes De Champagne (premium), 30% Pinot Noir, 30% Meunier, 40% Chardonnay

Answer 91

1760, Reims. Lanson- BCC. Black Label Brut (leading), Noble Cuvee (premium), 50% Pinot Noir, 15% Meunier, 35% Chardonnay

Answer 92

1858, Reims. Vranken. Brut Royal (leading), Cuvee Louise (premium), 33% Pinot Noir, 33% Meunier, 33% Chardonnay

Answer 93

1785, Reims. EPI. Cute Brut (leading), Rare (premium), 55% Pinot Noir, 30% Meunier, 15% Chardonnay

Answer 94

1868, Ludes. Thienot Group. Authentic Brut (leading), Grande Cuvee Charles VII (premium), 45% Pinot Noir, 35% Meunier, 20% Chardonnay

Answer 95

1760, Mareuil- sur- Ay. Independent. Brut Reserve (leading), Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart (premium). 30% Pinot Noir, 40% Meunier, 30% Chardonnay

Answer 96

1829, Ay. Independent. Special Cuvee (leading), Vieille Vignes Francaises (premium). 60% Pinot Noir, 15% Meunier, 25% Chardonnay

Answer 97

1851, Reims. EPI. Brut Reserve (leading), Blanc des Millénaires (premium). 33% Pinot Noir, 33% Meunier, 33% Chardonnay.

Answer 98

1776, Reims. Independent. Brut Premier (leading), Cristal (premium). 40% Pinot Noir, 20% Meunier, 40% Chardonnay

Answer 99

1843, Reims. LVMH. Krug Grande Cuvee (leading), Krug Vintage/ Clos Du Mesnil (premium), 50% Pinot Noir, 20% Meunier, 30% Chardonnay

Answer 100

1811, Epernay. Pernod Ricard. Grand Brut (leading), Belle Epoque (premium), 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Meunier, 20% Chardonnay

Answer 101

1849, Epernay. Independent. Brut Reserve (leading), Sir Winston Churchill (premium), 33% Pinot Noir, 33% Meunier, 33% Chardonnay

Answer 102

Adds orange and red fruit flavours

Answer 103

Adds richness and yellow Apple flavours

Answer 104

Adds citrus flavours and marzipan flavours

Answer 105

Champagne house founded in Épernay in 1849 and still in family hands. The founder’s sons changed their surnames to Pol-Roger by deed poll, Pol being a champenois variant of Paul. The wines rank high among the top champagne houses for quality, although it is one of the smaller grandes marques. Pol Roger owns 91 ha/224 acres of vineyards on prime sites in the Vallée d’Épernay and on the Côte des Blancs and latterly on the Montagne de Reims. Particularly deep cellars house nine million bottles, representing five years’ supply. Sir Winston Churchill was a devotee of the house, even naming his racehorse Pol Roger. The compliment was repaid after his death, when all non-vintage labels exported to Britain were edged in black for 37 years. The Sir Winston Churchill Cuvée was launched in 1984 as Pol Roger’s prestige cuvée. The great-grandsons of the original Pol Roger, Christian Pol-Roger and Christian de Billy were succeeded by the son of the latter, Hubert de Billy.

Answer 106

Small but important Champagne house founded in Rheims in 1843 by Johann Krug, who was born in Mainz, Germany, in 1800 and had come to work in Champagne, seeking French citizenship. By 1866 the firm occupied its current modest cellars, around whose courtyard the Krug family lived until 2014. Krug does not make an ordinary non-vintage champagne but specializes exclusively in prestige cuvées, of which the multi-vintage Grande Cuvée is the flagship, having replaced the rather fuller-bodied Private Cuvée in 1979. Grande Cuvée was first made with a blend of 60 to 70 wines from five to six different years, in addition to the current harvest, but a total of 148 wines from more than ten years went into the blend in 2014. Krug is the only house to persist in barrel fermentation of its entire production of base wine, in old 205-l/54-gal casks. In 1971, Krug acquired and replanted the Clos du Mesnil, a walled vineyard of less than 2 ha/5 acres. Its Chardonnay grapes provide one of Champagne’s very few single-vineyard, or cru, wines of which the 1979 vintage was the first. The 0.68 ha/1.7 acres of Clos d’Ambonnay planted exclusively with Pinot Noir is responsible for an ever more expensive wine launched with the 1995 vintage. Small quantities of the finest vintage Krug, released at very similar prices to Grande Cuvée, are released, as Krug Collection, about ten years after their initial release. In 2012, acknowledging the considerable variation between the Grande Cuvées produced each year, Krug introduced back label codes identifying when each cuvée was disgorged. Krug has been owned by LVMH since 1999 although sixth-generation Olivier Krug is part of the tasting committee and represents the house in Champagne and abroad.

Answer 107

Aube, Aisne, Marne, Haute-Marne, Seine-et-Marne

Answer 108

357 villages

Answer 109

Vin Mousseux Blanc, Vin Mousseux Rosé (either saignée or blending prior to tirage is authorized)

Answer 110

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Meunier, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Arbane, Petit Meslier

Answer 111

Minimum Potential Alcohol: 9%, Maximum Residual Sugar: 10 g/l

Answer 112

Secondary fermentation (prise de mousse) is accomplished in glass bottles. Tirage may not occur until at least January 1 of the year following the harvest. Volume of wine may not increase by more than 1.12% per 1% increase in alcohol during secondary fermentation. Wines may not be disgorged until at least 12 months after the date of triage. Finished wines are marketed in the same bottle in which tirage occurred, except for bottle sizes with a volume smaller than 375 ml or larger than 3 liters. For NV bottlings, up to 20% of 375 ml bottles may also be transferred into new bottles.

Answer 113

The addition of liqueur d'expédition may not lead to an increase in volume of wine (expressed in percentage) higher than the sum of the percentage increase in alcoholic strength (multiplied by a coefficient of 1.266) and the grams per liter increase in sugar content (multiplied by a coefficient of 0.0666). See the following formula: Volume of Wine (%) = (1.266 × Alcohol Percent Increase) + (0.0666 × Sugar Increase)

Answer 114

Max. 80% of a year's harvest may be sold as vintage Champagne. Vintage-dated wines must contain 100% of a stated vintage (with the exception of wine and products contained in the liqueur de tirage or the liqueur d'expédition)

Answer 115

NV wines: Min. 15 months from date of triage | Vintage Wines: Min. 36 months from date of tirage

Answer 116

max. 2.5 square meters per vine

Answer 117

Chablis, Cordon de Royat, Vallée de la Marne (allowed for Meunier only), Guyot (simple or double)

Answer 118

10,400 kg/ha

Answer 119

102 liters/160 kg (Additional pressed juice is rebêche, or the "end of pressing", and must account for 0-10% of the total. This may only be used for distillation.)

Answer 120

1936 (earlier protections date to 1919) (last updated 2010)

Answer 121

Sillery, Puisieulx, Beaumont-sur-Vesle, Verzenay, Mailly Champagne, Verzy (added after 1985), Louvois, Bouzy, Ambonnay

Answer 122

Aÿ, Tours-sur-Marne (red grapes 100%, white grapes 90%)

Answer 123

Chouilly (white grapes 100%, red grapes 95%)- added after 1985, Oiry (added after 1985), Cramant, Avize, Oger (added after 1985), Le Mesnil-sur-Oger*

Answer 124

Avenay-Val-d'Or, Bezannes, Billy-le-Grand, Chambéry, Chigny-les-Roses, Cormontreuil, Coulommes-la-Montagne, Écueil, Jouy-lès-Reims, Ludes, Les Mesneux, Montbré, Pargny-lès-Reims, Rilly-la-Montagne, Sacy, Sermiers, Taissy, Tauxières-Mutry, Trépail, Trois-Puits, Vaudemange, Villers-Allerand, Villers-aux-Nœuds, Ville-Dommange, Villers-Marmery, Vrigny

Answer 125

Bisseuil, Champillon, Cumières, Dizy, Hautvillers, Mareuil-sur-Ay, Mutigny

Answer 126

Bergères-Lés-Vertus, Cuis, Étréchy, Grauves, Pierry, Val-des-Marais (Coligny), Vertus, Villeneuve-Renneville-Chevigny, Voipreux

Answer 127

Viticulture must occur on the estate (only RM producers may join). Vinification and bottling must occur on the estate. Members must respect and uphold the Club's charter. Est 1971.

Answer 128

The "Special Club" is the top-of-the-range, prestige cuvée for all members. The Club Trésors will declare a vintage as being worthy of "Special Club" prestige cuvées, then each member may decide individually whether or not to produce a "Special Club" wine. All base wines and finished "Special Club" wines must undergo tasting analysis. All "Special Club" bottles share an identical label and bottle shape

Answer 129

Paul Bara (Bouzy), Roland Champion (Chouilly), Charlier et Fils (Montigny-sous-Châtillon), Gaston Chiquet (Dizy), Duménil (Chigny-les-Roses), Forget-Chemin (Ludes), Fresnet-Juillet (Verzy), Pierre Gimonnet et Fils (Cuis), J.M. Goulard (Prouilly), Henri Goutorbe (Aÿ), Grongnet (Etoges), Marc Hébrart (Mareuil-sur-Aÿ), Hervieux-Dumez (Sacy), Vincent Joudart (Fèrebrianges), Juillet-Lallement (Verzy), Larmandier Père et Fils (Cuis), J. Lassalle (Chigny-les-Roses), Launois Père et Fils (Mesnil-sur-Oger), Joseph Loriot-Pagel (Festigny), A. Margaine (Villers Marmery), Rémy, Massin et Fils (Ville-sur-Arce), José Michel et Fils (Moussy), Moussé Fils (Cuisles), Mouzon-Leroux et Fils (Verzy), Nominé-Renard (Villevenard), Pertois-Moriset (Le Mesnil-sur-Oger), Salmon (Chaumuzy), Sanchez-Le Guédard (Cumières), Vazart-Coquart et Fils (Chouilly)

Answer 130

Aisne, Aube, Haute-Marne, Marne, Seine-et-Marne

Answer 131

635 communes

Answer 132

Blanc, Rosé, Rouge

Answer 133

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Meunier, Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris

Answer 134

None Specified

Answer 135

max. 2.5 square meters per vine

Answer 136

10,400 kg per hectare (max. press yield of 102 liters per 160 kg)

Answer 137

1974 (last updated 2010)

Answer 138

Département: Aube Communes of Production: Les Riceys Styles and Encépagement: Rosé (tranquille): 100% Pinot Noir Minimum Potential Alcohol: 10%, Minimum Must Weight: 170 g/l Vinification Requirements: Grapes are vinified as whole bunches (semi-carbonic maceration) Élevage: The wines may not be released until July 15 of the year following the harvest Minimum Planting Density: max. 2.5 square meters per vine Maximum Yields (Rendement de Base): 10,400 kg per hectare (max. press yield of 102 liters per 160 kg) AOC Established: 1947 (last updated 2010)

Answer 139

Delimited region in Northern France

Answer 140

Cool continental climate. Frosts and winter freeze are very serious hazards and wet weather can cause problems throughout the growing season.

Answer 141

Chalk and limestone are widespread but there are also important areas of marl and sand. Soils need regular applications of fertiliser as they are very low in nutrients.

Answer 142

Although there is only one appellation for Champagne the regions is divided into two parts. First there is the aire delimitee, a wide ranging area within which the wines can be made ad aged and second there is the aire production which consists of particular parcels of land within the aire delimitee which alone can be planted with grapes which qualify for Champagne production.

Answer 143

Champagne is planted to capacity, so with a vision to increase supply the aire production is currently being reviewed. All land that was excluded in the 1927 and 1935 appellation laws is to be assessed to determine if any more land can be bought into the champagne appellation. This process started in 2011 and is not due to be finished until 2015 at the earliest. Any newly approved vineyards would not be able to produce wines for Champagne production for several years after that.

Answer 144

In champagne it is whole villages and not individual sites that are classified. In certain instances this classification is limited to specific grape varieties. Each village was awarded a percentage with 100% for Grand Cru and 90-99% for Premier Cru. This Echelons des Crus was created as the lynchpin of the fixed grape price scheme. This system was swept away by EU anti- competition legislation. The classifications remain and Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines are still produced, however, grape prices are now reliant on market forces. - Grand Cru: 17 villages - Premier Cru: 44 villages There are some who feel that a vineyard classification system akin to Burgundy would be beneficial but the effort and controversy that this would entail mean that this is unlikely to ever happen.

Answer 145

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. White varieties- Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris are all permitted but together only represented 0.3% of plantings.

Answer 146

The vineyard area is broken into 14 sub regions of which the most important are: - Montagne de Reims - Cote des Blancs - Vallee de la Marne - Cote de Sezanne - Cote des Bar The maximum permitted is 10.4 tonnes/ hectare. Grapes must achieve a minimum potential alcohol of 9% abv.

Answer 147

There are four approved pruning systems: - Tallie Chablis - Cordon de Royal - Guyot (single and double) - Vallee de la Marne (this is only authorised for Pinot Meunier) With the exception of Guyot these systems retain significant amounts of old wood. This helps with frost resistance. Sustainable viticulture is highly encouraged by the CIVC. The CIVC sets the harvest date, the minimum potential alcohol required, and the amount of wine to be kept in reserve each year. The price for grapes are dependant on market conditions and are no longer fixed by the CIVC. Grapes must be hand picked.

Answer 148

This is officially defined as 102 L/ 160 kg. This is often scaled up to give an equivalent value of 25.5hL/ 4,000kg (this weight of grapes is called a marc and it is a standard measurement in the region). Using these measurements: - the best juice= cuvee= 1st 20.5hL - the remainder= taille= the remaining 5hL

Answer 149

A rose wine may be achieved by maceration or as a blend or red and white wines.

Answer 150

These can only be made using grapes from the stated vintage. In any year no more than 80% of the production can go to Vintage wines. The remaining 20% must be stored as reserve wines.

Answer 151

The law states that all wines must be kept on their lees for a minimum of 12 months. The following rules apply concerning the time a wine must be kept from the date f triage to release for sale: - Non- vintage wines: 15 months - Vintage wines: 36 months

Answer 152

Made from grapes that come from Premier Cru or Grand Cru vineyards.

Answer 153

Made from grapes grown exclusively in Grand Cru vineyards.

Answer 154

This is not a labelling term, but usually describes wines made from grapes harvested in more than one vintage. These wines tend to represent the standard offering from the producers and display the house style.

Answer 155

The wine must be from a single year

Answer 156

Recently disgorged. This is a trade mark of Bollinger used for vintage wines that have had extended lees ageing. Other producers have to use other terms for wines which have undergone extended ageing.

Answer 157

This is not a labelling term but generally describes the best wine(s) in a producers range

Answer 158

The Champagne trade can most simply be divided into three parts. 15,000+ growers who own the majority of the land, over 100 cooperatives who play an important role in wine production, and approximately 349 Houses who are responsible for the majority of Champagne exports. The tensions that have historically existed and continue to exist between these three groups are well documented. This picture does not show the true complexity of the situation in Champagne. The Cooperative movement is very important in the handling and processing of grapes. They sell on either must, vin claims (base wine) or finished wine within the trade or finished wines to consumers. Many growers produce their own wine either independently or with the help of a cooperative. The sales of these wines are significant. There are also brokering companies that buy up finished wines from houses, cooperatives or growers and sell them on under their own label or exclusive brands for their outlets.

Answer 159

Comite Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC) Syndicat General de Vignerons de la Champagne Federation des Cooperatives de la Champagne Union des Maisons de Champagne

Answer 160

A champagne house

Answer 161

A grower who produces wine from his own grapes.

Answer 162

Two or more growers who share the same variety to produce and market wine from their grapes.

Answer 163

A cooperative wine

Answer 164

A grower who sells wine made from his grapes that are made by the cooperative.

Answer 165

A broker who buys and sell finished wines.

Answer 166

A brand owned by a retailer or restaurant

Answer 167

Thanks to the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne, champagne is one of the most thoroughly organized wine regions in the world. The CIVC was established in 1941 as a co-operative organization grouping champagne growers, co-operatives, shippers, and houses under the auspices of the government. Growers/co-operatives on the one hand and merchants/champagne houses on the other each have a president to represent them. The CIVC is charged with organizing and controlling the production, distribution, and promotion of the wines of Champagne, as well as undertaking fundamental research for the region. Until 1990 it set a price for the grapes and still intervenes to regulate the size of the harvest and decide whether any of it should be ‘blocked’, or retained as juice rather than vinified and sold. The CIVC is financed by a levy on production and a tax on champagne sales. But most importantly the CIVC is responsible for defending the Champenois’s exclusive right to use the word ‘champagne’. A notable victory was won in the English courts in 1959 and since then the name has achieved legal protection in most major markets, although not in the United States for established brands. The CIVC has fought a number of battles to ensure that the name Champagne is not used for other products, including a cigarette and a brand of perfume.

Answer 168

family-owned Champagne house producing a range of top-quality wines based on Pinot Noir grapes. Bollinger was formed from the de Villermont family’s holdings in the village of Aÿ near Epernay, where the company is still based. In 1829, Jacques Joseph Placide Bollinger formed a partnership with Amiral Comte Athanase Louis Emmanuel de Villermont and Paul-Joseph Renaudin to form the house of Champagne Renaudin, Bollinger & Cie. In 1837, Jacques Bollinger married de Villermont’s daughter Louise Charlotte and became a French citizen. In 1865, the house started to ship low-dosage champagne to Britain, which was unusual for a period in which most champagne reaching the country was sweet. Champagne Bollinger received the Royal Warrant as Official Purveyor of Champagne to Queen Victoria in 1884. Control of the house eventually passed to Jacques’s grandson (also named Jacques), who died young, leaving his widow Elizabeth ‘Lily’ Bollinger (1899–1977) in charge. Madame Bollinger oversaw the family vineyards on foot and bicycle for four decades, enduring the 1944 German bombardment of Aÿ while sleeping in the Bollinger cellars. After the Second World War, she increased the house’s vineyard holdings, which in 2014 stood at 164 ha/405 acres, providing around 60% of its needs. By the time of her death in 1977, Madame Bollinger had seen sales double to 1 million bottles a year. She believed that nothing should change the traditional Bollinger style, and to this day the following five rules are obeyed: a majority of grapes from the house’s own vineyards, 85% of which are Grand and Premier Cru; Pinot Noir dominance in the blend; barrel fermentation in over 3,000 old barrels to encourage micro-oxygenation; reserve wines aged in magnums; and bottle ageing for two to three times longer than required, even for the non-vintage Special Cuvée. Bollinger RD (‘recently disgorged’, with marked autolysis as a result of being aged for a minimum of eight years) was introduced by Madame Bollinger with the 1952 vintage. Rarest of all Bollinger champagnes is the Vieilles Vignes Françaises, a blanc de noirs produced exclusively from ungrafted Pinot Noir vines that grow in two walled vineyards were never affected by phylloxera. The Bollinger family company, Société Jacques Bollinger, acquired Burgundy producer Chanson in 1999. It also owns a majority stake in the saumur house Langlois-Chateau, as well as a minority stake in the cognac house Delamain. In 2005 the company bought their neighbouring house in Aÿ, Champagne Ayala, one of the original grandes marques.

Answer 169

Scrupulously even-handed acronym for Moët Hennessy-Louis Vuitton, the French luxury goods conglomerate which has a dominant interest in the champagne industry, not least through its subsidiaries, which include moët & chandon, krug, veuve clicquot, and Ruinart, and a leading position in Cognac through Hennessy. In 2004 the group acquired Glenmorangie and Ardbeg malt whiskies and other spirit brands including Belvedere vodka. LVMH’s still wine assets include cloudy bay, Cape Mentelle in western australia, Terrazas de los Andes in mendoza, Numanthia in toro, and in 2014 it acquired Clos des Lambrays in morey-st-denis. Since the late 1950s the company has developed a substantial position in the premium sparkling wine market through the creation and development of the Chandon brand. It now produces Chandon in Argentina, Brazil, the US, Australia, China, and India. In 1998, LVMH acquired a substantial stake in Ch d’yquem, while its chief executive Bernard Arnault became co-owner of Ch cheval blanc. For more details of LVMH’s champagne interests, see moët & chandon.

Answer 170

Benedictine monk who has gone down in history as ‘the man who invented champagne’. The title is the stuff of fairy-tales: the transition from still to sparkling wine was an evolutionary process rather than a dramatic discovery on the part of one man. The life of Dom Pérignon was in fact devoted to improving the still wines of Champagne, and he deserves his place in the history books for that reason. Father Pierre Pérignon arrived at the Abbey of Hautvillers, north of Épernay, in 1668. His role was that of bursar, and in the 17th century that included being in charge of the cellars. He collected tithes from surrounding villages in the form of grapes and wine, fermenting and blending until he created wines that sold for twice as much as those of the abbey’s rivals. Dom Pérignon introduced many practices that survive in the process of modern wine production, among them severe pruning, low yields, and careful harvesting. He also experimented to a great extent with the process, and was one of the first to blend the produce of many different vineyards. Dom Pérignon produced still white wines, favouring black grapes because a second fermentation was less likely. Ironically, he was often thwarted in his endeavours by the refermentation process, which produced the style of wine that was eventually to prove so popular. His fame as the ‘inventor’ of champagne probably spread after his death, embellished by Dom Grossard, the last bursar of the abbey, which closed at the time of the French Revolution. More modern champagne producers have jumped on the bandwagon, promoting the idea of a founder figure. Eugene Mercier registered the brand name Dom Pérignon before moët & chandon acquired it and used it to launch the first champagne marketed as a prestige cuvée, a 1921 vintage launched in 1936.

Answer 171

May be France’s tenth most planted black grape variety but it is rarely encountered on a wine label. Pinot Meunier, sometimes called simply Meunier in the champagne region where almost all of its French total of more than 11,000 ha/27,170 acres is grown, is an early, particularly downy, mutation of pinot noir. It earns its name (meunier is French for miller) because the underside of its downy leaves can look as though they have been dusted with flour. In Germany, it is known as Müllerrebe (miller’s grape) as well, misleadingly, as Schwarzriesling. The variety is treasured in Champagne, as it was in the once-extensive vineyards of northern France, because it buds later and ripens earlier than the inconveniently early budding Pinot Noir and is therefore much less prone to coulure and more dependably productive. Acid levels are slightly higher although alcohol levels are by no means necessarily lower than those of Champagne’s most-planted variety Pinot Noir. Pinot Meunier is therefore the popular choice for Champagne’s growers, especially those in cooler north-facing vineyards, in the damp, frost-prone Vallée de la Marne, and in the cold valleys of the Aisne département. In fact, so commercially reliable is Meunier for Champagne’s powerful vine-growers that until recently it was Champagne’s most popular variety by far, but has now been overtaken by Pinot Noir. Common wisdom has it that, as an ingredient in the traditional three-variety champagne blend, Meunier contributes youthful fruitiness to complement Pinot Noir’s weight and Chardonnay’s finesse. Few producers boast of their Pinot Meunier, however (with the honourable exception of krug), although several Champagne growers make a varietal Pinot Meunier, which is generally lower in pigments than Pinot Noir. It has largely disappeared elsewhere in northern France although it is still technically allowed into the rosés and light reds of Côtes de toul, wines of moselle, and, in the Loire, touraine, and orléans. As Müllerrebe or Schwarzriesling, a selection of Meunier is relatively popular in Germany, where the majority of its 2,162 ha/5,340 acres are in württemberg where it is a local speciality. It is also grown in German-speaking switzerland, and to a much lesser extent in Austria. Elsewhere, Meunier tends to be grown by those slavishly following the champagne recipe (as in England and California, for example). But curiously, in Australia Pinot Meunier has a longer documented history as a still red varietal wine (at one time called Miller’s Burgundy) than Pinot Noir, notably at Great Western (now called grampians) in victoria.

Answer 172

Champagne house as famous for its eponymous founder, the first great champagne widow (veuve in French), as for its wines. Nicole Barbe Ponsardin (1777–1866) married François Clicquot, the son of the house’s founder, in 1798. After the premature death of her husband in 1805, the 27 year-old widow took over the reins of the company, which she renamed Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin. Despite her youth, she steered the house carefully through the turbulent years of the First and Second Empires, defying Napoleon’s blockades to ship the wine to Russia, and finding an export market in virtually every European court. ‘La grande dame de la Champagne’ is credited with inventing the riddling process called remuage, and adapting a piece of her own furniture into the first riddling table for that purpose. In 1818, she was first to elaborate a rosé champagne by addition of red wine from Bouzy. On her death, the company passed to her former chief partner, another shrewd operator, Édouard Werlé who introduced the famous yellow label, still used for the non-vintage wine, and the house remained in the hands of the Werlé family until in 1987 it became part of the Moët Hennessy-Louis Vuitton group (see lvmh). The house style is based on Pinot Noir grapes and, in particular, those grown at Bouzy, where the house has large holdings. La Grande Dame is Clicquot’s prestige cuvée, named, of course, after the widow. In 1990, the Champagne house purchased a majority stake in the western australian winery Cape Mentelle and its New Zealand subsidiary cloudy bay, completing the purchase in 2000.

Answer 173

Champagne house producing the single most important champagne brand in the world, and part of the vast lvmh group. The Champagne house was founded by Claude Moët, born in 1683 to a family which had settled in the Champagne district during the 14th century. He inherited vineyards and became a wine merchant, establishing his own firm in 1743. He was succeeded by his son Claude-Louis Nicolas and his grandson Jean-Rémy Moët, who used his impressive connections to open up international markets for his wine. Jean-Rémy was a close personal friend of Napoleon Bonaparte, and was awarded the cross of the Légion d’Honneur in the final years of the emperor’s rule. In 1832, Jean-Rémy handed over the firm to his son Victor and his son-in-law Pierre-Gabriel Chandon. At the same time, the company acquired the Abbey of Hautvillers and its vineyards (see pérignon, dom). In 1962, Moët & Chandon’s shares were quoted for the first time on the Paris Stock Exchange, leading to a period of considerable expansion. First, Moët bought shares in Ruinart Père et Fils, the oldest Champagne house, in 1963. Five years later, it acquired a 34% stake in Parfums Christian Dior, increasing this to a 50% stake shortly afterwards. In 1970, Moët took control of Champagne Mercier, a popular brand in France, and capped it all by buying out Dior and merging with the cognac house of Hennessy in 1971 to form the holding company Moët Hennessy. The acquisitions continued unabated, including, in 1981, a stake in the American importers Schieffelin. At one stage the company’s American investment also involved the Simi winery in Sonoma, Moët having established Domaine Chandon, a seminal sparkling California winemaking establishment in the Napa Valley, in 1973. This was by no means the company’s first venture into the New World. Bodegas Chandon was established in Argentina in 1960, and Provifin, now Chandon do Brasil, followed in 1974, both companies making considerable amounts of wine for the domestic market, much of it sparkling. In Germany, too, a sekt business had been established in the form of Chandon GmbH in 1968. In 1985, the group founded Domaine Chandon, Australia, to make a premium sparkling wine sold as Domaine Chandon in Australia and Green Point in the UK, and in 1987 established a company in Spain for the production of a cava although the winery and vineyard associated with Masía Chandon were subsequently sold to freixenet. In 1987, Moët Hennessy merged with the Louis Vuitton Group, makers of luxury leather goods and then owners of Champagne houses veuve clicquot, Canard-Duchêne, and Henriot, and Givenchy perfumes. The LVMH group’s composition continues to evolve but in 2005 it owned five Champagne houses: Moët & Chandon, Mercier, Ruinart, Veuve Clicquot, and krug (having once also owned Pommery, and Lanson briefly while stripping it of its extensive vineyard holdings before selling it on). Of these, Moët & Chandon and Mercier are run most closely in tandem. Moët, the brand, continues to sell at over twice the rate of its nearest competitors and claims that one in four bottles of Champagne exported comes from the house. It is the leading brand of champagne in most world markets with a share of the champagne market in the United States that can be as high as 50%. The house prestige cuvée is named after Dom pérignon, the legendary figure of the Abbey of Hautvillers, and broke new ground in terms of packaging, pricing, and qualitative ambitions when it was launched in 1936.

Answer 174

family-owned Champagne house known both for its early links with the Russian court and for its extensive vineyard ownership. The original company was founded by a M. Dubois around 1776; Louis Roederer joined in 1827, becoming owner in 1833. By the second half of the century, russia had become the major market for Champagne Louis Roederer: 666,386 bottles out of a total company production of 2.5 million were exported there in 1873. In 1876, Louis Roederer was commissioned by Tsar Alexander II to create a special personal cuvée in clear glass crystal bottles that was named Cristal. But in 1917 the Russian Revolution brought the immediate loss of the company's principal export market. Camille Orly-Roederer, widow of the great-nephew of Louis, rebuilt the company after this blow, in particular by strengthening Roederer's vineyard holdings at a time when other houses were selling, a move many later regretted. In 1924, responding to demand for the legendary Cristal, she reintroduced it, bottled in the original design of crystal glass with no punt, creating the first prestige cuvée champagne. By the mid 2010s the company’s vineyards extended over 240 ha/593 acres, much of it in the Grands and Premiers Crus villages. Mainly thanks to these vineyard holdings, Roederer produces more vintages of Cristal than is usual for a prestige cuvée. The company, unusually for a substantial champagne house, remains independent. Jean-Claude Rouzaud, Camille’s grandson, continued in expansionist vein, buying more vineyards and investing in other wine regions. Roederer Estate in anderson valley, first released in 1988, was one of California's finest sparkling wines. An investment in Jansz in tasmania was terminated. The company, now headed by Frédéric Rouzaud, seventh generation to lead the company, also owns Adriano Ramos Pinto in Portugal, Champagne Deutz, Delas Rhône wines, Domaines Ott in Provence, and in Bordeaux Chx de Pez and Haut-Beauséjour in St-Estèphe and, since 2007, second growth Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande in Pauillac.

Answer 175

Name derived from the Latin term campania, originally used to describe the rolling open countryside just north of Rome (see campania). In the early Middle Ages, it was applied to a province in north-east France (see map under france). It is now divided into the so-called ‘Champagne pouilleuse’, the once-barren but now cereal-growing calcareous plains east of Rheims, and the ‘Champagne viticole’ (capital letters indicate the geographical descriptions, lower case is used for the wine). Champagne, with its three champagne towns Rheims (Reims in French), Épernay, and Aÿ, was the first region to make sparkling wine in any quantity and historically the name champagne became synonymous with the finest, although Champagne is now responsible for less than one bottle in 12 of total world production of all sparkling wine. In common with other French regions making fine wines, notably Burgundy and Bordeaux, champagne formed the model for other aspiring winemakers, especially in Australia and the west coast of the United States, employing the same grapes, and the same sparkling winemaking method, as the French originals (known now as the traditional method). This form of imitation, while flattering, became decidedly awkward for the Champenois in the late 1980s. Their response was to tighten up the regulations regarding their own wines, and thus substantially increase the average quality—although they are unable to increase the 35,000 ha/86,500 acres devoted to vines to any significant extent for fear of diluting the quality and character of the wine. See the detail of the expansion of the region proposed in 2007 in Geography below.

Answer 176

The region permitted to call its wines ‘champagne’ was strictly defined by law in 1927. It sprawls from Charly-sur-Marne a mere 50 km/30 miles east of Paris along the Vallée de la Marne subregion to the Montagne de Reims subregion and south from Épernay along the Côte des Blancs and its southern extension, the Côte de Sézanne. A separate subregion is the Côte des Bar in the Aube, 112 km south east of Épernay. Over the years, the acreage actually planted has varied widely, dropping to 11,000 ha/27,000 acres during the 1930s. In 2013, the appellation comprised 34,282 ha/84,676 acres of vines—up from the 1993 total of 27,500 ha: 66% in the Marne; 10% in the Aisne; and 23% in the Aube. Only a tenth of the vines are owned by merchants, who can now add to their holdings only under very strict conditions. The remainder is owned by about 15,000 growers (far fewer than there used to be), many of whom own less than a hectare of vines. Much of the appellation (and Champagne is now the only major French region to have just one appellation), and all the better crus, are on the slopes of the hills typical of the region. The vines’ roots dig deep into calcareous depths, providing ideal conditions of drainage and humidity. The Champagne vineyard’s exposure to the cold northern winter inevitably makes grape-growing a precarious operation, with the quality of the wines varying from year to year. As a result, champagne is traditionally a wine blended, not only from a number of different villages and different grape varieties, but also from several vintages. The poverty of the soil requires constant addition of fertilizer, either the cendres noirs, the natural compost found on the region’s hilltops, or, until the late 1990s, finely ground (and curiously multicoloured) household rubbish from Rheims, or even Paris. The different qualities of grapes from the region’s 320 widely spread crus led to the establishment of a scale of prices according to the status of each commune. In general grapes from the 17 ‘grand cru’ communes fetch even higher prices than those from the 42 communes called premiers crus, although now that pricing has been freed, grape prices reflect the difference between individual vineyards rather than having one price for the produce of all vines in a given commune. At a time when champagne sales were increasing apparently ceaselessly, a list of 45 new communes that could be allowed to produce champagne has been presented to the authorities, but a slowdown in sales, apparently inspired partly by wider economic concerns and partly by increasing consumer confidence in other sparkling wines, has made this revision of the delimitation a little less pressing.

Answer 177

In the past, a number of grape varieties were planted in Champagne. But today almost the whole vineyard is planted with three:, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay. The Pinot Noir, which accounts for just over a third of the total acreage, is no longer as dominant as it was, but still accounts for 38% of all plantings and provides the basic structure and depth of fruit in the blend. In Champagne, the Chardonnay, planted on 30% of the total vineyard, was traditionally grown on the east-facing slopes of the Côte des Blancs but has proved suitable in many other subregions, especially the Côte de Sézanne. In Champagne it grows vigorously and buds early, thus making it susceptible to spring frosts. It imparts a certain austerity and elegance to young champagnes, but is long lived and matures to a fine fruitiness. The remaining 32% is planted with pinot meunier, a variety much more important in Champagne than anywhere else, particularly in the Valley of the Marne. It provides many champagnes with an early-maturing richness and fruitiness. There were 90 ha of Pinot Blanc planted together with tiny amounts of Pinot Gris, Arbane, and petit meslier from which at least one varietal champagne is made. Thanks to new clones and viticultural methods, the yield of grapes has grown greatly: from an average of 3,670 kg/ha in the 1940s to 9,910 in the 1980s (or from 24 to 66 hl/ha (1.3–3.7 tons/acre)). The first limit was set in 1935. Nowadays, the Comité Champagne sets the yield each year, usually well below the maximum limit set by eu regulations which is 15,500 kg/ha. Since 1992, 160 (rather than the earlier limit of 150) kg of grapes are required to produce 102 l of juice, which means that the maximum permitted yield is 65 hl/ha. vine density is notably high, and vines are replanted after between 25 and 30 years. The grapes are usually picked in September, on dates now fixed per grape variety village by village but which are in general becoming earlier as a result of climate change. (acid levels have also been falling.) They cannot be harvested unless they contain that year’s fixed minimum level of potential alcohol. But since the level can be as low as 8%, sugar may be added (see chaptalization) to boost the alcohol level to 11% after the alcoholic fermentation, and the second fermentation supplements the final alcoholic strength by up to another 1.5%. Most champagne is about 12.5% alcohol.

Answer 178

The pressing of the grapes is difficult, since the juice of what is to be a white wine must not be tainted by the skin of the mainly black grapes used. The traditional champagne press was a vertical basket press, holding 4,000 kg/8,800 lb of grapes, a quantity known as a marc and a standard unit of measurement in the region. These presses are also called Coquard presses after the name of the manufacturer. A number of other types of press have since been introduced and the CIVC allows both hydraulic and pneumatic horizontal presses. Since 1990, all pressing centres have had to comply with certain minimum standards. Traditionally 2,666 l/704 gal were extracted from every marc: the first 2,050 l were the cuvée, the next 410 l the premières tailles, while the final 206 l were the deuxièmes tailles. The total yield has now been reduced by 115 l to 2,550 l per 4,000 kg (or 102 l per 160 kg, as the inao regulations express it) and the deuxièmes tailles abolished. The juice is allowed to settle for between 12 and 48 hours, at a low temperature. A small but increasing number of producers ferment the must in oak, but the overwhelming majority of the grapes are fermented in stainless steel vats holding between 50 and 1,200 hl (1,320–31,700 gal). The fermentation temperature also varies, between 12 and 25 °C (54–77 °F). Most winemakers use a strain of yeast specially developed by the CIVC. Immediately after the first fermentation, most, but by no means all, champagnes now undergo malolactic conversion. The result is called vin clair. Traditionally champagne has been made from wines from a number of different vineyards, and a major part of the work of a chef de cave in a champagne house is the art of blending, but many growers (and a few firms) make wines from a single commune or vineyard. Major firms use wines from between 50 and 200 communes for their blend. They also use between 10 and 50% of vins de réserve from earlier vintages, generally stored in stainless steel or cement vats. Before the wine is bottled, a measured dose of bottling liquor (liqueur de tirage), a mixture of wine, sugar, and specially developed yeasts, is added to the wine. The bottles are then capped, usually with a crown cap lined with plastic. Following tirage, lees contact, riddling, and disgorgement, a sweetening dosage is usually added before final corking. A few champagnes are sold without any added sugar at all; most are brut.

Answer 179

In addition to their basic wine, their non-vintage brut, major firms also make single vintage champagnes, typically three or four in every decade. blanc de blancs is made exclusively from the Chardonnay grape while blanc de noirs is made exclusively from black grapes. This century has seen a fashion for pink or rosé champagne made either by adding a small proportion of red wine to the blend or, less usually, by letting the juice remain in contact with the skin of the grapes for a short time during fermentation. All the major firms have now followed the example of Roederer with their Cristal bottling and Moët & Chandon with Dom Pérignon and produce ‘luxury’, ‘de luxe’, or prestige cuvées to show their house styles at their best. By far the most common style is Brut and, as average acidity levels in grapes have been declining, base wines taste softer, there is less need for compensatory sweetness, and the maximum permitted residual sugar in Brut wines has been reduced from 15 to 12 g/l. Age also reduces apparent acidity so that both riper grapes and more mature wines require less sweetness. An increase in both grape maturity and average age of reserve wines has encouraged a number of producers to launch wines with less or even no added dosage. Wines with residual sugar less than 6 g/l may be called Extra Brut, while those without any added dosage at all, and with residual sugar under 3 g/l, may be called Brut Nature, Pas Dosé, or Zéro Dosage. These bone-dry wines have become more common, but some champagne specialists believe some dosage is essential for a well-balanced champagne and are concerned that undosed champagnes cannot benefit from the effects of any maillard reaction. The small proportion of still wines made in the region are sold under the appellations Coteaux champenois and the rare pink rosé des riceys. ratafia champenois is a local wine-based apéritif.

Answer 180

Making sparkling wines, most obviously involves the accumulation of gas under pressure in what was initially a still ‘base wine’ or, ideally, blend of base wines. The most common methods of achieving this are discussed below but these are matters of technique rather than substance. Almost all of them depend on initiating a second fermentation, which inevitably produces carbon dioxide, and most of them incorporate some way of keeping that gas dissolved under pressure in the wine (see fizziness), while separating it from the inconvenient by-product of fermentation, the lees. What matters most to the quality of a sparkling wine, however, is the quality and character of the blended base wines.

Answer 181

Wines that are good raw material for the sparkling winemaking process are not usually much fun to drink in their still state. They are typically high in acidity and unobtrusively flavoured. There is a school of thought that the austerity of the still wine of the champagne region, Coteaux champenois, is the most eloquent argument of all in favour of champagne’s carbon dioxide content. It is not just in Champagne, however, that sparkling winemakers argue that balance is the key to assembling a base wine to make sparkling, and that the best sparkling wines are therefore essentially blended wines. Some fine varietal sparkling wines exist (some of the best blanc de blancs champagnes, for example), but a great sparkling wine never tastes just like the still wine version plus gas; the very nature of sparkling winemaking is to try to make a sum that is greater than the parts (although this may not be achieved, or even attempted, for cheaper wines). Those who aspire to make good sparkling wine are acutely aware that any minor fault in a base wine may be amplified by the sparkling winemaking process. Accordingly, for better sparkling wines, grapes had invariably been hand picked up to the early 1990s since whole-bunch pressing was the norm, and such mechanical harvesters as had been tested by then risked splitting berries and extracting harsh phenolics into the grape juice, which could cause astringent, coarse characteristics which would be magnified by the pressure of bubbles. It is possible that gentler mechanical harvesters will change this, although it is essential to press grapes as soon as possible after picking. Press houses in the vineyards have long been de rigueur in Champagne and are increasingly common for other top-quality sparkling wines. Grapes destined for sparkling wines are usually picked at lower must weights than the same varieties would be if they were to be sold as a still wine. In very general terms, average yields can be higher for sparkling wines than for still wines (see below), partly because there is no imperative to achieve high sugar levels. In California, for example, harvest begins in mid, or sometimes early, August for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay destined for sparkling wines. In Australia, the aim is to pick such varieties just as herbaceous characters have been lost when ripe fruit flavour compounds are beginning to develop (in practice at about 17 to 20 °brix in Australia’s cooler areas). pressing is an important stage in sparkling winemaking, particularly in Champagne, where black grapes are used, as it is essential that the concentration of phenolics, both astringency and colour, is kept to a minimum. There has been much experimentation with horizontal presses of various types, and modern pneumatic or tank presses can certainly offer a reliably high standard of hygiene, but modern technology has found it difficult to improve upon the traditional vertical presses of Champagne, although they are labour intensive. So-called ‘thin layer’ presses which minimize pressure, and therefore the extraction of phenolics, by pressing a layer of grapes no more than 70 cm/27 in thick, are used increasingly. The winemaker can then make the usual still white wine choices concerning oxidative versus protective methods of juice handling; juice clarification; choice of yeast strain and fermentation rate; protein stabilization; and malolactic conversion. Then comes the crucial blending stage, the true art of making sparkling wine, and one in which experience is as important as science. A large champagne house such as moët & chandon may be able to use several hundred base wines in order to achieve the house style in its basic expression, that year’s non-vintage blend. A small, independent concern, especially outside Champagne, may have access to only a very limited range of base wines—a disadvantage in a poor vintage, although not necessarily in a good one. And a producer of the most basic Charmat process wine may simply blend the cheapest vaguely suitable ingredients available in the market place.

Answer 182

This method, once known as the champagne method and now known variously as traditional method, classical method, classical traditional method, méthode traditionnelle, and méthode classique, is the most meticulous way of making wine sparkle; the raw ingredients vary considerably but the basic techniques do not.

Answer 183

Pressing is the first operation defined in detail by the traditional method, which understandably differentiates rigorously between the fractions of juice from each press load, for the first juice to emerge from the press is highest in sugar and acidity and lowest in phenolics, including pigments. A maximum extraction rate is usually defined in any regulations concerning sparkling wine production (such as those for France’s crémants). Those who produce traditional method sparkling wine acknowledge that the first juice to emerge from the press is generally the best, even if there is a certain amount of vintage variation. From 1992, the permitted extraction rate for champagne was reduced so that 160 kg (350 lb) of grapes rather than 150 kg of grapes were required to produce 102 l (27 gal) of wine, about the same extraction rate as that used by producers of top-quality sparkling wine anywhere in the world. (This compares with an approximate average extraction rate of 100 l of wine from about 130 kg of grapes for still red wines)

Answer 184

After the making of the base wines (described above), which usually takes place over the winter following the harvest, the final blend is made after extensive tasting, assessment, and assemblage. There is extreme flexibility in blending a non-dated wine and a high proportion of ‘reserve wine’ made in previous years may be used. Some champagne houses include up to 45% of reserve wines in their non-vintage blend. (krug indulge in the luxury of using base wines from up to ten different vintages being held in reserve.) The ingredients in a vintage-dated sparkling wine are more limited (often by necessity for those new to sparkling winemaking, and by law in Champagne). Many of the base wines made from dark-berried grapes, however lightly pressed, may have a light pink tinge at this stage, although the pigments are precipitated during tirage, the crucial next stage during which the blended wine rests on the lees of a second fermentation in bottle. As soon as the new blend has been made in bulk blending tanks, it usually undergoes cold stabilization in order to prevent subsequent formation of tartrates in bottle.

Answer 185

This new blend then has a mixture of sugar and yeast added to it before bottling in particularly strong, dark bottles, usually stoppered with a crown cap, so that a second fermentation will occur in bottle, creating the all-important fizz. Conventionally, an addition or tirage of about 24 g/l of sugar is made. This creates an additional 1.2 to 1.3% alcoholic strength and sufficient carbon dioxide to create a pressure inside the bottle of 5–6 atmospheres after disgorgement (see below), which is roughly the fizziness expected of a sparkling wine, and one which can safely be contained by a wired champagne cork. During this second fermentation, known as prise de mousse in French, the bottles are normally stored horizontally at about 12 °C/54 °F until the fermentation has produced the required pressure and bubbles, usually for four to eight weeks. Special types of yeast culture which help sparkling winemakers have been developed (and are much used for still wines too). Such yeasts are particularly good at flocculating, and produce a granular deposit that is easy to riddle, or shake, to the neck of the bottle for extraction. At this stage, riddling agents are increasingly added with the yeast and sugar. Made of some combination of tannins, bentonites, gelatines, or alginates, they help to produce a uniform skin-like yeast deposit that does not stick to the glass but slips easily down it during the riddling process. The development of smoother glass bottles has also helped.

Answer 186

Timing of the riddling process after the second fermentation is a key element in quality and style of a traditional method sparkling wine, the second most important factor affecting quality after blending the base wine. The longer a wine rests on the lees of the second fermentation in bottle, the more chance it has of picking up flavour from the dead yeast cells, a process known as yeast autolysis. Most regulations for traditional method sparkling wines specify at least nine months’ ageing on lees, and the minimum period for non-vintage champagne was increased to 15 months in the early 1990s (vintage champagnes are usually aged for several years). During the bottle ageing process, the yeast cells autolyse, releasing increasingly complex flavour compounds. The chemistry of autolysis is not fully understood, but it seems that autolysis has significant effects only after about 18 months on the lees, and that the most obvious changes occur after five to ten years of lees contact, which inevitably increases production costs considerably. It may be that compulsory periods of lees contact in bottle of only a few months have less effect on quality than has been imagined.

Answer 187

The riddling process, known as remuage (or shaking) in French, is one of the most cumbersome (and most publicized) parts of the traditional method, but it is undertaken for cosmetic rather than oenological reasons: to remove the deposit that would otherwise make the wine cloudy (as it does in the méthode ancestrale described below). Traditionally, bottles were gradually moved from the horizontal to an inverted vertical by hand, by human remueurs or riddlers who would shake them and the deposit every time they moved them towards the inverted vertical position in special pupitres or riddling racks. This was a slow and extremely labour-intensive way of moving the deposit from the belly of the bottle to its neck. The cava industry based in Cataluña developed an automatic alternative in the 1970s, the girasol or gyropalette, which has since been widely adopted for traditional method sparkling winemaking the world over. The bottles are stacked, 504 at a time, in large metal crates, and their orientation changed at regular intervals (including night time, unlike the manual method), with accompanying shake, from the horizontal to inverted vertical by remote control. Using riddling agents, well-adapted yeasts, and gyropalettes, bottles may now be riddled in as little as three days, as opposed to the six weeks or more needed for hand remuage without riddling agents.

Answer 188

The final stage in a complicated production process—though it may be shorter than, say, that of a fine oak-aged red—is to remove the deposit now in the neck of an inverted bottle. The conventional way of achieving this is to freeze the bottle neck and deposit by plunging the necks of the inverted bottles into a tray of freezing solution. The bottles are then upended, the crown cap flipped off, and the 2 cm deposit flies out as a solid pellet of ice. Bottles are then topped up with a mixture of wine and sugar syrup, the so-called dosage, stoppered with a proper champagne cork held on with a wire muzzle, and prepared for labelling. Many of the bigger producers employ a technique known as jetting, long familiar to brewers, to protect the wine from oxidation: just before the cork is inserted, a small dose of wine, or bisulfite diluted in water, is injected into the neck of the bottle at high pressure; this creates bubbles that rise just to the lip of the bottle, pushing out any oxygen in the head space. Most dry sparkling wine is sweetened so that it contains between 5 and 12 g/l residual sugar, the higher the natural acidity of the wine, the more dosage is generally required to counterbalance it, although the longer a wine is aged on lees, the less dosage it needs. One of the apparent effects of climate change seems to be a noticeable trend to reduce the amount of sugar added as grapes are picked riper, with lower acidity.

Answer 189

Riddling and disgorgement are unwieldy processes which contribute nothing to the innate quality of the sparkling wine. It is not surprising therefore that, in the 1980s, as labour costs spiralled, there was considerable research into alternative methods of expelling the sediment. One of the most successful has been the development of encapsulated yeast. Yeast can be trapped in a ‘bead’ made of calcium alginate. Such beads are about a few millimetres in diameter and are able to hold the yeast trapped in their interior while having big enough pores to admit sugar and nutrients into the bead so that a full second fermentation can proceed as normal. The great advantage is that the riddling stage takes seconds as the beads simply drop into the neck of the inverted bottle. The only brake on the adoption of encapsulated yeasts has been the development of reliable machinery which will dispense beads into bottles without shearing them. Although moët & chandon successfully trialled the use of such beads, the company decided it was more practical and economical to continue to use gyropalettes to move the sediment to the neck of the bottle. Another possible method is to insert a membrane cartridge into the neck of the bottle. Yeast is dispensed into it and it is then plugged before the bottle is stoppered with the usual crown cap. Like the beads, the cartridge allows ingress of sugar and nutrients for fermentation to take place there, as well as allowing the carbon dioxide gas out. In this case there is no need at all for riddling, and disgorgement simply entails taking off the crown cap and allowing the pressure inside the bottle to expel the cartridge. Neither of these alternatives has been commercially adopted so far, partly because of cost, although the membrane method could be useful to small wineries for whom the investment in riddling and disgorgement equipment has been prohibitive, but perhaps also out of concern that the use of such technology might be seen to undermine the ‘traditional method’ image so cherished by the big champagne houses.

Answer 190

Transversage is an occasional twist on the traditional method whereby, immediately after disgorgement, the contents of bottles of sparkling wine made by the traditional method are transferred into a pressure tank to which the dosage is added before the wine is bottled, typically in another (often small) size of bottle, under pressure. This is how many half-bottles, all airline ‘splits’ or quarter-bottles, and virtually all bottle sizes above a jeroboam of champagne are filled.

Answer 191

The transfer method, known as méthode transfert in French and Carstens in the United States, also depends on inducing a second fermentation by adding sugar and yeast to a blend of base wines and then bottling the result. It differs from the traditional method, however, in that riddling and disgorgement are dispensed with and, after a period of lees contact, the bottles are chilled, and their contents transferred to a bulk pressure tank where the sediment is removed by clarification, usually filtration. A suitable dosage is then added and the result is once again bottled, using a counter pressure filler, before being corked and wired. The transfer method is likely to be abandoned in the long term because it has all the disadvantages of the traditional method but does not produce all its qualities in the wine.

Answer 192

This process was developed in the USSR for soviet sparkling wine and is now used in Germany and Portugal. but only for large-volume inexpensive fizz. The method involves a series of usually five reticulated tanks under five atmospheres of pressure, the same fizziness as in most sparkling wines. At one end, base wine together with sugar and yeast (usually rehydrated dried yeast) is pumped in and the second fermentation crucial to virtually all methods of sparkling winemaking begins. This creates carbon dioxide, which increases the pressure in the tank, but the yeast cannot grow under this pressure and so further yeast has to be added continuously. The second and third tanks are partly filled with some material such as wood shavings, which offer a substantial total surface area on which the dead yeast cells accumulate and a certain amount of autolysis, or at least reaction between the dead yeast cells and the wine, takes place. In the fourth and fifth tanks there are no yeast cells and the wine eventually emerges relatively clear, having spent an average of perhaps three or four weeks in the system.

Answer 193

This very common method, also called cuve close (French for sealed tank), tank, or bulk method, granvas in Spanish, autoclave in Italian, was developed by Eugene Charmat in the early years of the 20th century in Bordeaux. Its advantages are that it is very much cheaper, faster, and less labour intensive than the above processes, and is better suited to base wines which lack much capacity for ageing. A second fermentation is provoked by yeast and sugar added to base wine held in bulk in a pressure tank and, after a rapid fermentation, the fermentation is typically arrested by cooling the wine to −5 °C when a pressure of about 5 atmospheres has been reached. The result is clarified, a dosage is added and the resulting sparkling wine is bottled using a counter pressure filler. This style of sparkling wine is the most likely to taste like still wine with bubbles in it, rather than to have any of the additional attributes which can result from fermentation in bottle.

Answer 194

Also known as the injection, or simply the ‘bicycle pump’, method, carbonation of wine is achieved in much the same way as carbonation of fizzy soft drinks: carbon dioxide gas is pumped from cylinders into a tank of wine which is then bottled under pressure, or very occasionally it is pumped into bottles. The result is a wine which has many, and large, bubbles when the bottle is first opened, but whose mousse rapidly fades. It must have a pressure of at least 3 atmospheres and in EU parlance is referred to as aerated sparkling wine. This is the cheapest, least critical, and least durable way of making wine sparkle and is used for perhaps the cheapest 10% of all sparkling wines.

Answer 195

This method (given new life by the pétillant naturel vogue) results in a lightly sparkling wine, often with some sweetness and sediment, and most closely parallels how wines were originally made sparkling. It involves bottling young wines before all the residual sugar has been fermented into alcohol. Fermentation continues in bottle and gives off carbon dioxide. Today it is becoming increasingly common in parts of France such as the Loire and the Jura, and is spreading throughout the wine world, but variants on this theme are still made in gaillac, limoux, and for clairette de die Tradition. The resulting wine, generally stoppered by a crown cap, is sweeter and less fizzy than a traditional method sparkling wine and no dosage is allowed. The wine may in some cases be decanted off the deposit and rebottled under pressure in a form of transfer method.

Answer 196

This is an unusual variation on the méthode ancestrale above and the transfer method, producing wines similar to asti. It is used for the sweet wine clairette de die Tradition, most of which is made by the local co-operative. The base wines are fermented in stainless steel tanks at very low temperatures over several months. The wine is then filtered to remove most but not all of the yeast, bottled, and fermentation continues in bottle until an alcoholic strength of between 7 and 8.5% has been reached. The wine is disgorged six to 12 months after bottling (the minimum time on lees is four months) before being filtered again and immediately transferred to new bottles. The use of liqueur de tirage and liqueur d’éxpedition is both prohibited and unnecessary.

Answer 197

The signature style of Krug is centered upon the art of blending. Each parcel is fermented separately, constituting upwards of 200 different wines in any single harvest. Each year, a selection of these 200 wines is blended together with a vast array of reserve stocks, and for the Grand Cuvée, this may include up to 50% reserve wine spanning over 20 vintages. All of their wines are considered Prestige Cuvée quality, and Krug is the leader in the luxury Champagne category. A proportion of their vintage wine is held back for a late release bottling, which is named Krug Collection.

Answer 198

Approximately 20 ha

Answer 199

Approximately 50,000 cases

Answer 200

- Grand Cuvée Brut NV - Brut Vintage - Clos du Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut Vintage - Clos d’Ambonnay Blanc de Noirs Brut Vintage

Answer 201

1979 for Clos du Mesnil, 1995 for Clos d’Ambonnay

Answer 202

Base wines are all fermented in small oak cask, 205 L in size. Malolactic fermentation may or may not occur depending on the vintage conditions. Each single lot is fermented separately and blended afterward to achieve complexity. Krug is known for using large proportions of reserve wine in each blend.

Answer 203

Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger

Answer 204

This Champagne house was the creation of Eugène Aimé Salon, a self-made businessman, politician and gourmand. In 1905 he purchased a one hectare vineyard in Le-Mesnil-Sur-Oger making wines for himself and his Parisian lunch club. Salon states that the first vintage was 1905, released in 1911, but these wines were enjoyed privately and not available commercially. The first commercial vintage of Salon was the 1921 vintage. It is considered to be the first blanc de blancs Champagne. Aimé Salon made the wines until his death in 1943 and left the winery to his nephew. In 1988 the winery was purchased by Laurent-Perrier. Today it is run side-by-side with Champagne Delamotte, the fifth-oldest winery in Champagne. Salon is a Négociant Manipulant.

Answer 205

1.2 ha Le-Mesnil-Sur-Oger

Answer 206

approximately 4,500 cases

Answer 207

Salon, Blanc de Blancs

Answer 208

1905 first vintage of Salon, 1921 first commercial vintage of Salon

Answer 209

There is only one wine made. It comes from the original vineyard purchased by Aimé Salon, and a few other parcels in Le-Mesnil. The wines are always vintage and always 100% Chardonnay and aged ten years on its lees before release. The Salon wines are known for their great capacity to age and are highly sought after by collectors and sommeliers alike

Answer 210

The Egly-Ouriet family has been farming grapes in Champagne for a long time, but did not begin making any of their own wines until the 1950’s. In fact, it was not until 1982 that they even began using all of their grapes for their own production. The house style is powerful and intense, resulting from low yields, old vines, and riper grapes at harvest. The wines are Pinot Noir dominant with the general breakdown of estate plantings ranging from 70% Pinot Noir to 30% Chardonnay. They do have 2 ha of Meunier vines in Vrigny, which go into a 100% varietal blanc de noir bottling, Vignes de Vrigny.

Answer 211

Approximately 12 ha

Answer 212

Approximately 8,000 cases

Answer 213

- Tradition Brut Grand Cru NV - V.P. Extra Brut Grand Cru NV - Les Vignes de Vrigny Brut Premier Cru NV - Blanc de Noirs Brut Grand Cru Vintage

Answer 214

Base wines are fermented in oak barrique for 8 to 10 months. Depending on vintage conditions, the wines may or may not be put through malolactic fermentation. The minimum ageing on the lees lasts three years.

Answer 215

Rilly la Montagne

Answer 216

Nearly all of Vilmart’s vineyards are located in the premier cru village of Rilly, in Montagne de Reims. The vineyards are planted with 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir and are farmed organically. From the beginning, they have only made wines from estate owned vineyards. Vine age ranges from 35 to 50+ years, and they are known for their extremely low yields, resulting in powerful wines. Every bit of their production spends time in oak, though the size and age of the casks vary depending on the wine. The NV wines spend 3-4 years on the lees while the vintage wines spend 5-7 years on their lees.

Answer 217

Approximately 8,500 cases

Answer 218

Grand Cellier NV Cuvée Rubis NV Grand Cellier Rubis Vintage Grand Cellier d’Or Vintage Coeur de Cuvée Vintage Ratafia

Answer 219

All base wines are aged in oak for a minimum of ten months.

Answer 220

Les Mesnil-sur-Oger

Answer 221

Pierre Péters is a grower-producer located in the Cote de Blancs, and their reputation is founded upon their classic & sleek blanc de blancs Champagnes. Currently in its sixth generation, the estate is run by Rodolphe Péters, grandson of Pierre. The majority of their vineyards are located in Les Mesnil-sur-Oger, and the vintage Champagnes rely heavily on fruit from this vineyard. Their other vineyards are in the Grand Crus of Avize, Oger, and Cramant. They aim to showcase the subtleties of terroir in their wines and thus chose to farm sustainably and ferment in stainless steel. The Champagnes are considered racy, elegant, and mineral driven.

Answer 222

Approximately 18 ha

Answer 223

Approximately 13,300 cases

Answer 224

Cuvée de Réserve Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut Vintage Cuvée Spéciale les Chetillons Blanc de Blancs Brut Vintage Rosé for Albane Brut Vintage

Answer 225

1971 for Cuvée Spéciale, 2009 for Rosé for Albane

Answer 226

In order to maintain the freshness and elegance of Chardonnay, they chose to ferment exclusively in stainless steel. All wines go through malolactic fermentation. The dosage varies, depending on the wine, though in general falls between 2-6 g/l.

Answer 227

1950-1960. First vintage bottled was 1960.

Answer 228

Jacques Selosse founded the estate in the 1950s and bottled his first vintage in 1960. His son, Anselme, took over as winemaker in 1980 after attending the Lycée Viticole de Beaune. Upon taking over, he reduced yields in the vineyards and began to move towards organic viticulture. Selosse in a proponent of oxidative production and low-dosage. His top wine, Substance, is created out of a Solera of twelve different vintages. Selosse was named best winemaker of the year by Gault-Millau in 1994. In the spring of 2013 burglars stole 300 cases of Champagne from Selosse's cellars, worth nearly $350,000. Interestingly they took 16,000 front labels, 12,000 neck labels, and 2,500 caps, which leads to the conclusion that they were also planning on counterfeiting the Selosse wines as well. Selosse is a Recoltant Manipulant.

Answer 229

15 ha total. The majority being 4 ha in Avize, and parcels in Oger and Cramant. More recent acquirements were in Ay, Ambonnay, and Mareuil.

Answer 230

approximately 4,500 cases.

Answer 231

Substance, Grand Cru Initiale, Grand Cru Champagne Extra Brut, "Version Originale" Les Carelles, Le-Mesnil-Sur-Oger Exquise, Demi-Sec La Côte Faron, (used to be Contraste), single vineyard in Aÿ

Answer 232

The Solera for Substance was started in 1987. The Solera for Les Carelles was started in 2010.

Answer 233

Selosse has some of the lowest yields in Champagne. Fermentation comes from all ambient yeast. He ferments the base wines in a mix of pieces (228 L), Fût (400L), and Demi-Muids (600L). Malolactic is free to occur naturally but does not always occur. The base wine is aged for 12 months in barrel; typically less than 20% are new. He uses a low dosage for most of his wines, save for the Exquise which has a dosage of 24 g/l. All of his other wines are between 0-5 g/l dosage.

Answer 234

Gimonnet is a well regarded grower-producer located in the Premier Cru village of Cuis. In addition to their vineyards in Cuis, the family also owns property in Vertus, Chouilly, Cramant, and Oger, as well as a small Pinot Noir plot in Aÿ and Marieul-sur-Aÿ. They have old vines averaging 35 years of age, somewhat of an anomaly to the area. All of the Blanc de Blanc wines are blends of the various villages, and Gimonnet, though they have Grand Cru holdings, prefers a blend across vineyards. All wines are fermented in stainless steel in order to preserve the freshness of the Chardonnay grape variety.

Answer 235

Approximately 28 ha

Answer 236

Approximately 20,800 cases

Answer 237

Cuis Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV Gastronome Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Vintage Fleuron Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Vintage Oenophile Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Vintage Paradoxe Brut Vintage Special Club Vintage

Answer 238

All base wines are fermented in stainless steel in order to preserve the freshness of the Chardonnay grape variety. Wines generally receive a low dosage for their Brut designation.

Answer 239

Gosset is the oldest producer in the Champagne region, though their origins are not founded in sparkling wine production. They own few vineyards, and rely on grapes from 45 different crus for their production, almost all of which qualify as Premier or Grand Cru. The house is known for finesse and relies on Chardonnay for its top cuvees. Their top cuvee, Celebris, is made in blanc de blancs, rosé, and blended styles; all receive an extra brut dosage.

Answer 240

Approximately 1 ha

Answer 241

Approximately 10,000 cases

Answer 242

Excellence Brut NV Grand Réserve Brut NV Celebris Extra Brut Vintage

Answer 243

1988 for Celebris

Answer 244

The base wines are fermented in stainless steel, although they do not receive malolactic fermentation. They undergo long lees aging, ranging from 4 years for the NV wines and longer for the vintage cuvées.

Answer 245

Champagne has a history of vine-growing that dates back to the dawn of Christianity, and its vineyard boundaries have been defined by France’s appellation system (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée or AOC) since 1927. But despite its world-famous wines, the terroir at the heart of this region remains little known. With its northern location, rugged climate, distinctive soil type and hillside vineyards, the Champagne terroir is the only one of its kind – as original as the wine it produces.

Answer 246

- A northerly location means a cold climate and harsh weather conditions for the vines. - The oceanic influence, brings steady rainfall, with no significant variations in seasonal temperatures. - The continental influence, ensures ideal levels of sunlight in summer – but also brings often-devastating winter frosts.

Answer 247

In Champagne – and this is the terroir’s primary distinguishing feature – the vines are planted at the northernmost limits of their cold tolerance. Average annual temperature in Reims and Epernay (latitudes 49°5 and 49° North) is just 11°C (50°F). Vines, like all plants, require appropriate weather conditions and in the Northern Hemisphere, rarely thrive beyond latitudes 50° North and 30° South. The Champagne terroir’s second major distinguishing feature is its dual climate, which is predominantly oceanic but with continental tendencies. This complex weather pattern distinguishes the Champagne viticultural zone from the other terroirs in the same group. The annual mean temperature tends to be higher with no major fluctuations from year to year. That said, the oceanic influence keeps temperatures on the low side, with little variation from one season to another.

Answer 248

Champagne receives barely 1,650 average annual hours of sunshine compared with 2,069 in Bordeaux and 1,910 in Burgundy. The growth rate is accordingly limited, giving the grapes the freshness and crispness that Champagne requires.

Answer 249

- The Côte des Blancs, the Côte de Sézanne and Vitry-le-François lie on an outcrop of chalk. - The Montagne de Reims lies on a deep bed of chalk. - The Marne Valley (west of Châtillon-sur-Marne) and the hills around Reims (Massif de Saint-Thierry, Ardre Valley and Montagne Ouest) lie on soils containing more marls, sand or clay. - The Côte des Bar (Bar-sur-Aube and Bar-sur-Seine) lies on soils essentially derived from marl.

Answer 250

The chalk in Champagne consists of granules of calcite formed from the fragile shells of marine micro-organisms (mainly coccolites). Being highly porous, it acts as a reservoir (storing 300-400 litres of water per m3, or 79-105 US gallons) that provides the vines with a steady supply of water even in the driest summers. Chalk draws in water through capillary action. The effort required to tap into this water supply puts the vines under just enough water stress in the growing season to achieve that delicate balance of ripeness, acidity and berry aroma potential.

Answer 251

The Romans were great wine connoisseurs and expert wine growers. They knew which slopes were best suited to vine cultivation, choosing well-drained lands with good exposure to sunlight, and vines capable of withstanding the rigours of the northern climate. Next came the bishops and the great ecclesiastical vineyard owners. The Bishop of Reims and the great abbeys of Hautvillers, Saint-Thierry, Reims – St-Remi and St-Nicaise – all owned substantial vineyards and laid the basis of the growing methods and winemaking skills. In the Middle Ages, Champagne wines had a slightly effervescent quality due to an incomplete fermentation process that created tiny bubbles of carbon dioxide in the bottles. These were red wines, almost clear in colour (ie clairet) and already quite distinguishable: light, crisp and dry, with an unmistakeable expression of their northern origins and chalky sub-soils. The vines at that time were planted close together (‘en foule’, literally ‘in a crowd’) and required a constant succession of seasonal tasks – starting with pruning, already regarded as the basis of successful viticulture. Hence the pruning hook that symbolizes the winegrower

Answer 252

In the time of the monasteries, blending was an automatic part of the winemaking process. Grapes were delivered by local farmers as payment of their tithe, then pressed collectively regardless of differences in grape variety or vineyard site. But blending became an art in the hands of such notable religious wine-makers as the monk Dom Perignon, bursar of the Abbey of Hautvilliers in Champagne. Their particular expertise lay in combining selected grapes of different origins to improve the balance of the finished wine. Many years later, the Champagne Houses would adopt the same approach, exploiting the rich diversity of their terroir by blending wines from different grape varieties, different sites and even different vintages to produce a cuvee that was superior in quality to any one of them. Blending made it possible to create more harmonious wines. It also opened the way to wines of a certain defined character with a consistent taste and quality – something that was quite unheard of at the time when winemakers were largely at the mercy of Nature.

Answer 253

Traditionally, there were two main grape varieties in Champagne: Gouais, used to make the red vins de Montagne (wines of the mountain); and Fromenteau, a variety with pale pinkish gray berries, used to make the clear white vins de Rivière (wines of the river). These limpid white wines were made from the first musts to avoid colouring the juice and already much appreciated for their natural sparkle. The 14th Century French writer Watriquet de Couvin talked of them as “clear, quivering, strong, delicate and fresh on a discerning palate”. The 14th century also marked a change in direction as popular taste turned towards white wines with more colour and pale, light reds known as clairet wines. The most fashionable wines at the time were those from Aÿ, a cru in the Marne Valley that for a while became an umbrella designation for all the vins de Rivière. By the mid-16th century all Champagne wines had become famous and the river vineyards, in a constant quest for improvement, started production of a vin gris (grey wine) from a new, better-quality grape called Pinot Noir. Harvesting commenced half an hour after sunrise and lasted until 9-10am. The grapes were then pressed slowly so as to avoid colouring the first musts, producing a brilliant white wine with good cellaring potential.

Answer 254

The breakthrough that was to prove the making of the Champagne legend was learning to master the effervescence. It seems that the Aÿ vineyards did originally produce a traditionally fermented, sparkling wine called Tocane. Although notoriously acidic, Tocane was much in demand by 1675, encouraging an increasing number of estates to jump on the bandwagon. None of them really understood what caused the wine to sparkle, only that it became effervescent once bottled, in the time between the harvest and the following May. For the next 50 years effervescence remained a hit-or-miss and potentially explosive process, solely reserved for acidic, blanc de blancs wines with a pronounced tendency to natural fermentation. It was not until the 1730s that winegrowers started to experiment with vin gris, noticing that it too started to sparkle if bottled in the first quarter of the March moon following the harvest. Meanwhile, faced with the mounting cost of breakages, producers looked for ways to improve the quality of the glass and stopper. New bottles were designed that were capable of withstanding the intense pressure. Then the traditional wooden plug (‘broquelet’) was replaced by a cork that created an air-tight seal. So began a drive to improve the “prise de mousse” (literally “capturing the sparkle”) that continues to this day.

Answer 255

Champagne wine had enjoyed close associations with the monarchy and nobility since Clovis’ baptism in Reims in the fifth century. His coronation marked the birth of the kingdom of France and established Champagne as the wine of coronation, later known as "the wine of kings and the king of wines”. When Champagne wines became effervescent in the late 1700s, they were an instant success at court and among the wealthy and titled. By the early 19th century, the Champagne Houses were busy creating new outlets for Champagne in aristocratic circles around the world – braving the perils of land and sea to woo the American and Russian markets … Champagne came to symbolise the spirit of France, French culture and liberal thinking. Its reputation continued to spread throughout the 19th century, a time of prosperity and celebration when no high society event was complete without Champagne. Wherever people partied, they partied with Champagne – right up to the turn of the century when bubbly entered its golden age, toast of the belle époque and the Roaring Twenties.

Answer 256

The first vineyards are planted in Champagne. 

Answer 257

Champagne wines become known as ‘vins de la Montagne’ (wines of the mountain) and ‘vins de la Rivière’ (wines of the river).

Answer 258

Viticulture in Champagne suffers the ravages of the Hundred Years War – vineyards are abandoned and wine presses are destroyed.

Answer 259

 Champagne vineyards resume their expansion – by the end of the century, the number of winegrowing villages has tripled to 400

Answer 260

The wines of the mountain and river face growing competition from Aÿ wines

Answer 261

Century Wines from the Champagne region become collectively known as ‘Champagne wines’.

Answer 262

The Court of Appeal in Angers finds in favour of the ‘Syndicat des Grandes Marques de Champagne’ (literally ‘the big brands’) and decrees as follows: ‘Henceforth the term ‘Champagne’ or ‘Champagne wines’ shall refer exclusively to wine produced in, and sourced from, the ancient province of Champagne, an area with specific boundaries that shall neither be extended nor contracted.’

Answer 263

Champagne growers lobby the Ministry of Agriculture for delimitation of the official Champagne production area, with the name Champagne strictly reserved for wines ‘exclusively sourced from and produced in the Champagne production area’..

Answer 264

First delimitation, based on a tradition of winegrowing: the Marne (Reims, Épernay, Vitry-le-François) and the Aisne make up an area of appellation representing roughly 15,000 hectares.

Answer 265

Following a difficult period, Champagne adopts a percentile rating system (known as the ‘echelle des crus’ or ‘scale of growths’) for determining the price of grapes sourced from growths.

Answer 266

Legal delimitation of the official Champagne production area according to principles that remain in force today. The area includes the Aube together with several other villages that were excluded from the 1908 delimitation. A survey is conducted to identify the villages in Champagne ‘capable of producing appellation wines’. The official Champagne production area comprises 35,280 hectares.

Answer 267

- Just three authorized grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier - Short pruned vines (Cordon de Royat, Chablis and Guyot pruning) - Capped grape yields per hectare - Juice extraction strictly limited to 102 litres of must per 160 kilos of grapes - Minimum annual required alcohol levels by volume - Dedicated Champagne wine-making and storage premises - A natural winemaking process known as the ‘Méthode Champenoise’ - A minimum 15 months storage period for bottled wines prior to shipping

Answer 268

The pinot noir accounts for 38% of planting. It is the predominant grape variety on the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Bar where the cool, chalky terrain suit it perfectly. It is the Pinot Noir that adds backbone and body to the blend, producing wines with distinctive aromas of red berries and good structure.

Answer 269

The meunier accounts for 32% of planting. This robust grape variety shows better cold-weather resistance than the pinot noir and is particularly well suited to the more argillaceous soils of the Marne Valley. The meunier adds roundness to the blend, producing supple, fruity wines that tend to age more quickly than wines made with the other two varieties.

Answer 270

Le chardonnay accounts for 30% of plantings. The chardonnay accounts for 30% of plantings. The chardonnay is king on the Côte des Blancs, yielding delicately fragrant wines with characteristic notes of flowers, citrus and sometimes minerals. Being slower to develop than the other two varieties, chardonnay produces wines that are built to age.

Answer 271

The harvest base yield fixed by the INAO is 10,400 kg/ha, revisable upwards or downwards depending on the quality and quantity of the yield but capped at 15,500 kg/ha for AOC production. The rationale for capping yields lies in the high-density planting system in Champagne, with vines planted very close together (8,000 per hectare) to improve ripening and therefore quality. Limited juice extraction – just 102 litres of must per 160 kg of grapes – is a key part of this policy and brings the final yield to 66 hectolitres per hectare.

Answer 272

In good years, every Champagne producer is required to set aside a percentage of their wines as a precaution against disappointing future crops (as in 2012, for instance) or to meet exceptional demand (as at the moment of the Millennium). These wines are stored in temperature-controlled tanks, forming a reserve stock that is managed by the Comité Champagne.

Answer 273

- The words ‘Appellation Champagne’ (clearly displayed) - The style of wine as defined by level of sweetness or dosage (Brut, Demi-Sec, Sec...) - The brand of Champagne. - Percentage of alcohol by volume (% vol). - Bottle capacity (l, cl or ml). - Name of the producer or company name, followed by the name of the commune where that producer is registered (plus the trading address, if different) and the country of origin (France). ``` - The registration and code number issued by the Comité Champagne, preceded by two initials that indicate the category of producer: NM for Négociant-Manipulant, RM for Récoltant Manipulant, CM for Coopérative de Manipulation, RC for Récoltant-Coopérateur, SR for Société de Récoltants, ND for Négociant Distributeur, MA for Marque d’Acheteur. Batch code (sometimes stamped on the bottle itself). Allergen content (eg sulphur dioxide, sulphites, etc – sometimes mentioned on the back label). ``` - The warning ‘Drinking even small amounts of alcohol when pregnant can harm your unborn child’ or the symbol (required by certain countries). - The Green Dot symbol indicating that the collection and sorting of packaging waste is financed by producers and retailers. - Where appropriate, the vintage and specific details relating to the type of cuvee (whether Blanc de Blancs, Rosé, Blanc de Noirs, etc.), - Optional information included at the producer’s discretion (the varietals used, date of disgorgement, sensory characteristics, suggested food-and-wine pairings, etc).

Answer 274

The Champagne appellation extends 150km north to south and nearly 120kms east to west. The most northerly vineyards fan out some 20 kilometres to the north and north-west of the city of Reims in what is known as the Massif de Saint-Thierry between the rivers Aisne and Vesle. The western extreme extends some 15km along the Vallée de la Marne beyond Château Thierry, a short hop down the A4 autoroute to Paris. While most of the vineyards cease to the west of Châlons-en-Champagne on the eastern flank, there are a few far-flung communes to be found grouped to the north of Vitry-le- Francois. The southernmost vines are planted some 30km to the south east of the ancient and delightful city of Troyes. They are centred on the towns of Bar-sur-Aube and Bar-sur-Seine, respectively hugging the valleys of the rivers Aube and Seine. This is not one continuous stretch of vineyards, but rather various distinct groupings. The southerly villages of the Côte des Bar are over 100km from Epernay, the town which sits at the heart of the three largest and most prestigious production zones: the Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs. At the southerly extreme the vines around Les Riceys in the Côte des Bar are physically considerably closer to the town of Chablis, some 45 kilometres to the west.

Answer 275

Within this quite large geographic area, the villages included in the Champagne appellation, all 318 of them, are quality rated under a system known as the Échelle des Crus, literally ‘ladder of growths’, and given a classification between 100 and 80% (the lowest rating). Some 257 of these are assessed somewhere between 80 and 89%. One rung higher come the 44 premiers crus, which range in their classification from 90% to 99%. Top of the pile are Champagne’s 17 grands crus villages, all rated 100% on the Échelle des Crus. The 17 highest rated villages are all located in the three best-known districts (see below) with nine in the Montagne de Reims, six in the Côte des Blancs and two — Aÿ and Tours-sur-Marne — in the Vallée de la Marne.

Answer 276

There are then, moving from north to south, five distinctive main production areas in Champagne: Montagne de Reims; Vallée de la Marne; Côte des Blancs; Côte de Sézanne and the Côte des Bar. Although all five are strongly associated with one particular grape, because the soils and aspect are not identical across each district, pockets of all three main varieties — Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay — are commonly to be found in each. The likelihood of finding some plantings of all three varieties in any given cru is increased because individual grower producers who may have all their vineyard holdings in just one village usually want the option of cross blending (see The art of Blending below).

Answer 277

This region is best known for black grapes, the reputation of the grand cru villages of Mailly, Verzenay, Verzy, Ambonnay and Bouzy is based on the Pinot Noir grown on the slopes that surround them. Unusually for top-rated sites in the Northern hemisphere, vineyards in the first three villages named largely face to the north. The Montagne – really more of a wide plateau than mountain, it’s only 283 metres is its highest point – describes a U-shaped arc open to the west and running from just south of Reims almost round to the eastern flank of Epernay with sheltered vineyards (less prone to frost) sloping down towards the valleys of the rivers Vesle in the north and Marne in the south. It boasts more grands crus than any other district in Champagne with the less well-known villages of Puisieulx, Sillery, Beamont-sur-Vesle, and Louvois also within its boundaries making nine out the appellation’s 17. Stylistically some houses, would also add the grand cru village of Aÿ, even though like the grand cru of Tours-sur-Marne further to the east it is actually located right next to the river Marne. Although Pinot Noir is the most widely planted variety in the region (38%), to the west of the village of Ludes and in the Petite Montagne south west of Reims, Pinot Meunier becomes more evident. There are also important pockets of Chardonnay that accounts for 28 per cent of the vineyard area, mostly to be found in the eastern facing villages (at the base of the U) with the highly rated (95% on the Échelle des Crus) premier cru villages of Villers Marmery and Trépail the most significant with 240 and 252 hectares respectively (98% and 91% of the vines in each village). As should already be clear this is not one homogeneous vineyard producing grapes with near identical characteristics but rather one where the differing microclimate, aspect and exposure of individual sites results in a large range of styles. Soil types may also vary although all the grand crus are on the same chalky bedrock for which Champagne is rightly famous.

Answer 278

There are vineyards planted on the north side of this valley between Tours-sur-Marne at the eastern end and Epernay and on both banks of the river to the west of Epernay all the way to Saacy-sur-Marne some 20km beyond Château Thierry. The majority of plantings are Pinot Meunier (61%), which because of its late bud-break and early ripening is less vulnerable in this frost-prone valley. Meunier has a reputation as being Champagne’s workhorse grape, less refined than Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but is widely used by the major houses because its fruitiness and early development help soften their non-vintage blends making them more approachable when young. Meunier is also the mainstay of blends made by many fine smaller producers located in this region.

Answer 279

The name of this district, which runs at right angles to the Vallée de la Marne due south from Epernay, comes from the fact that is almost exclusively devoted to the cultivation of white grapes. The vineyards are mostly on the purest form of chalky Belimnite sub-soil, rich in minerals and trace elements, and largely face to the east. More than 95% are planted with Chardonnay and grapes from the four grand cru villages clustered in the centre of the Côte – Cramant, Avize, Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger – are the most sought after in the appellation and command the highest price per kilo. Not only do they help lift any blend they are added to, pure Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from any of these villages may produce wines of great intensity, minerality and longevity which tend to be somewhat austere in their youth.

Answer 280

This district of 2,432 hectares is in effect a continuation of the Côte des Blancs, separated only by the marshes of Saint Gond. The sub-soil here is mostly clay and clayey silt with some pockets of chalk and the vines are oriented towards the southeast. Like the Côte des Blancs it’s mainly planted with Chardonnay (64%) but around a fifth is given over to Pinot Meunier. Thanks partly to the favourable south-easterly aspect the wines tend to get riper and be more forward and fruitier than those in the Côte des Blancs, some say slightly more rustic and less fine. The area is rated 87% for white grapes and 85% for black grapes on the Échelle des crus.

Answer 281

This area in the Aube department may not be well known but it contains nearly a quarter (8,001 hectares) of the total vineyard area in Champagne and the vast majority of it — some 83 per cent — is planted with Pinot Noir. Because there isn’t much Pinot Noir available in the Montagne de Reims, and the frost prone Vallée de la Marne has a higher percentage of the hardier Pinot Meunier cultivated, the major negociants come here to source full flavoured, ripe Pinot Noir to blend in their non-vintage wines. Almost exactly half the appellation’s Pinot Noir is planted in the Côte des Bar. This area also has some of the prettiest countryside and villages in the whole of Champagne and in the three communes that make up Les Riceys — Ricey-Haut, Ricey-Haut-Rive and Ricey-Bas — it has something unique among French vineyards. This is the only place in France where wine may be produced under three different appellations, one fizzy (Champagne) and two still, the red wines Rosé des Riceys and Coteaux Champenois.

Answer 282

The story of the House of Krug illustrates the amazing adventure of its founder, Joseph Krug, a visionary non-conformist with an uncompromising philosophy. Having understood that the true essence of Champagne is pleasure itself, his dream was to be able to offer the very best Champagne he could create every single year, regardless of the harvest and annual variations in climate. “Our unconventional practices, making choices that were not necessarily the easiest ones and going beyond established rules, have been part of our vision, ever since the House was founded” explains Olivier Krug, sixth generation of the Krug family. Paying close attention to the vineyard’s character, respecting the individuality of each plot and its wine as well as building an extensive library of reserve wines from many different years, allowed Joseph Krug to fulfill his objective. He founded a House in which all Champagnes are different expressions of nature and have the same undisputed quality and distinction. Since 1843, six generations of the Krug family have maintained the dream, enriching Joseph’s vision and savoir-faire.

Answer 283

Since 1743 when it was founded, Moët & Chandon has been passing down unequaled winemaking savoir-faire and an innovative and pioneering spirit from generation to generation. Claude Moët, its founder, was the first person to embody these values when he made his Champagne the most sought-after in Europe. With his grandson, Jean Remy Moët, a pioneering and visionary mind, Moët & Chandon became a major international champagne brand. This saga quickly transformed the family House into a worldwide symbol of success. The 1,190 hectares of rich limestone soil, 50% of which is classed as Grand Cru and 25% Premier Cru, make up the largest vineyard area in Champagne. Underground, the Moët & Chandon cellars are the most extensive in the region. Extending more than 28 kilometers, they form a subterranean labyrinth where the wine metamorphoses under optimum conditions of humidity and temperature.

Answer 284

After making a fortune in the wool industry, in 1856, Mr Pommery was in fragile health and decided to retire from business and enjoy a quiet life. His son Louis was no longer a child. Mr Pommery and his wife did not have any special plans. They simply wanted to enjoy a well-deserved retirement. But destiny had other things in store for them… Madame Pommery discovered she was expecting a child, at the age of 38. This miraculous pregnancy, more than 17 years after her first, would change their lives forever. To provide for his baby daughter, Mr Pommery decided to go back into business. But the wool industry was in crisis. However, the champagne trade was booming. In the inventory on 31 December 1856, all of Pommery’s wines were grands crus. The company changed its name, but it gained great strengths and talents. Henry Vasnier, the 24-year-old financial and administrative director, and Adolphe Hubinet, the 23-year-old business director, joined the team. When Mr Pommery died on 18 February 1858, his wife looked at baby Louise, who was not even a year old, and mustered up the strength to set out on an incredible journey. With this same pride, passion, and emotion, we are trying to reproduce Madame Pommery’s miracle, which we have given the sweet name of Louise. ‘I resolved to continue with the business and take over for my husband…In 1858, the determined young widow set out to conquer the national and international markets. She had no qualms about shaking up the rules of corporate management. She was one of the first people in business to lay out a system for promoting luxury products, including style, branding, communication, and public relations. She invented Pommery’s brand image. This businesswoman used her fortune to good ends, setting up the first pension fund and a social security system for her employees. She also founded the orphanage in Reims and its maternity fund. Through these actions, she invented the corporate code of conduct. She was a patron of the arts, of artists from Reims above all. She donated her collection of 600 earthenware pieces to the museum in Reims, and Millet’s The Gleaners to the French state. Through her belief that ‘everything you get through work is holy’, she developed corporate patronage before it became commonplace. It was a strong personal endeavour that carried enormous risk. This audacious vision of business was based on firm ethical values, which we still share today.

Answer 285

Pommery. It was a revolution in Champagne. It was met with sarcasm and disbelief. But it was an unprecedented success. Under Madame Pommery’s impetus, the Pommery style became known as ‘full of finesse and cheery lightness’. It can be tasted today in the Brut Royal and Cuvée Louise. It is always different, ever unique after slow ageing in the shadows of the chalk cellars. Pommery Nature 1874, the first brut champagne in history, became a legend. Until then, Champagne wines were very high in sugar and alcohol, which were deemed necessary to counterbalance the acidity. But Madame Pommery, who had travelled in England and read Hubinet’s reports, knew that English society’s tastes were changing, and they preferred wines that were not as sweet or strong. This change in taste called for great technological changes. Harvest dates had to be delayed to harvest the grapes at full ripeness, ageing time had to be extended, and wine stock had to be increased to get the desired level of roundness. The House of Ruinart was founded on September 1, 1729 by Nicolas Ruinart. His uncle, a learned Benedictine monk called Dom Thierry Ruinart had incredible insight. He foretold that this new “wine with bubbles”, developed in his native region of Champagne and which the royal courts of Europe adored, was destined for a bright future. The creation of the House of Ruinart coincided with the dawn of the Enlightenment in France and of the French “art de vivre”. There arose in France a true culture of everything good and beautiful, favoring fine and elegant, light and sophisticated, delicate and rare taste. The cuvées naturally found their place. Driven by a constant quest for excellence and the absolute, the House selected chardonnay, a rare and fragile grape variety, as the common thread for all its cuvées.

Answer 286

First champagne House, Ruinart is the symbol of a savoir-faire and an "art de vivre" that are famed all over the world. Each of its cuvées bears the distinctive signature of chardonnay, the House's emblematic grape variety.

Answer 287

When he founded his “wine merchant business under the label Clicquot” in 1772, Philippe Clicquot had a clear ambition: cross all borders. He conquered Europe and then Russia in 1780, followed by the United States in 1782. He was joined at the head of the House in 1798 by his son, François Clicquot, who had recently married Barbe Ponsardin. Seven years later, following the untimely death of François Clicquot, his young widow, just 27 years old, took over the family business. Within just a few decades, Madame Clicquot was shipping wine to every continent. She perfected production techniques, invented the riddling table and innovated with the first blended rosé champagne. Faithful to the values of creativity and innovation passed on by Madame Clicquot, the Maison marked its bottles with its first yellow label in 1877, making the brand distinctive and instantly recognizable. Veuve Clicquot continues to be inspired by this same quest for modernity and excellence, constantly reinventing itself with new cuvées and bold innovations to enhance the enjoyment of its wines.

Answer 288

Descended from a family of barons and knights dating back to the 12th century and vineyard owners since 1761, the Mumm family founded the champagne house of the same name in 1827. In 1875, Georges Hermann Mumm, the son of one of the founders, created Mumm Cordon Rouge, which became an icon throughout the world, and the symbol of G.H. MUMM's excellence and know-how. A tireless traveller, a scholar and a visionary, he made his way across Europe and around the world, propelling the House to the top of the market. By 1900, no fewer than 20 points of sale had been opened in countries such as the United States, Russia and Canada, as well as Brazil and Peru.

Answer 289

G.H. MUMM has a 218 hectare vineyard, including 160 Grand Cru category hectares. The House's estate covers eight of the Champagne region's most famous vineyards: Aÿ, Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay and Mailly for Pinot Noirs, and Avize and Cramant for Chardonnays. From the beginning, G.H. MUMM has ensured control over the quality of the grapes used in order to guarantee the consistency and excellence of its champagnes. G.H. MUMM has patented several high-tech processes, all helping to ensure the quality of its wines. In addition to being one of the first to achieve ISO 9000 certification in 1995, G.H. MUMM is the only champagne house to hold triple certification in Quality, Safety & Environment, obtained in 2009. Since 1827, the G.H. MUMM style has been built on a subtle balance between freshness and intensity, carried forward by the House’s unbroken line of 12 Cellar Masters. Following in the footsteps of his predecessors, Didier Mariotti, the current Cellar Master, strives to faithfully express the G.H. MUMM style in respecting the character and authenticity of each vineyard, cultivating a balance between tradition and innovation. To obtain its precisely matured wines, G.H. MUMM insists on a longer ageing period and six to eight grams of liqueur de dosage to allow the wines to fully express their character. It’s a constant quest for excellence, illustrated by the development of a collection of Grand Crus for the most discerning connoisseurs.

Answer 290

Symbolising the excellence and know-how of the House since its founding, the Cordon Rouge vintage is a complex blend of over 77 wines. G.H. MUMM Cordon Rouge offers a consistent style and a subtle balance between freshness and intensity.

Answer 291

The famous rose that adorns its cap was designed by the Franco-Japanese painter Leonard Foujita. G.H. MUMM Rosé is vinified according to the same processes as G.H. MUMM Cordon Rouge, but differs through the addition of red wines from renowned villages of the Champagne region.

Answer 292

Rich, fruity and sweet, Demi-Sec is unquestionably the champagne that best corresponded to consumer tastes in the 19th century. It offers a different way to enjoy champagne, in a sweeter version, that carries on the tradition of fine dessert champagnes.

Answer 293

The vintage wines of G.H. MUMM are the result of a masterful balance between the expression of a particular year and the House’s signature style. They are only created on the decision of Cellar Master Didier Mariotti when a year turns out to be exceptional.

Answer 294

Created in 1882, the Blanc de Blancs is a rare vintage, developed in the Champagne tradition using a selection of Chardonnays exclusively from the Cramant vineyard located in the Grand Cru appellation of the Côte des Blancs area.

Answer 295

Perrier-Jouët was founded in 1811 by Pierre Nicolas Perrier and Adele Jouët. The combination of their expertise, resulting from tradition, an exceptional vineyard and a labour of love, allows a "House" style to be created with a unique floral tone, which is handed down from one Cellar Master to the next. Resolutely pioneering, Perrier-Jouët made its first shipment of wines to England in 1815. In 1856, in order to satisfy his British clients, Charles Perrier, who succeeded his father, produced the first "dry" champagne, which resulted in the creation of "Brut" champagne. In 1888, during an auction at Christie’s, Perrier-Jouët became the most expensive champagne in the world, achieving unprecedented record prices with the legendary Perrier-Jouët 1874. Passionate about art, the Champagne House was inspired by the work of Emile Gallé, a renowned master of Art Nouveau, and in 1902 entrusted him with the task of creating a unique decoration for its premium magnums. The famous white anemone decoration was then adopted for the well-known Belle Epoque vintage.

Answer 296

Perrier-Jouët owns 65 hectares of vineyards classified as 99.2% on the échelle des crus classification of champagne vineyards, which means that each of the House’s vineyards is classed almost exclusively as Grands Crus. An elegant and refined grape variety, floral and feminine, Chardonnay is Perrier-Jouët’s distinctive signature wine. Only seven Cellar Masters have succeeded one another over two centuries at Perrier-Jouët, each one trained by his master, just as craftsmen hand down the secrets of their art from father to son. The current Cellar Master, Hervé Deschamps, is the guardian of this precious know-how. Since its inception, Perrier-Jouët has only produced small volumes. Successive Cellar Masters have been able to preserve the House’s historic treasures, such as Perrier-Jouët 1825, the oldest champagne vintage currently in existence.

Answer 297

Perrier-Jouët is the first Champagne House to have created a dry champagne, which led to the birth of the famous Brut in 1856. A direct descendant of this tradition, the most widely-drunk wine in the world, Grand Brut exemplifies the House style: floral, elegant and chiselled.

Answer 298

Blason Rosé is the first rosé champagne created by Perrier-Jouët. Its name originates from the “Blason de France” range created in 1956. Blason Rosé is the gourmet wine in the Perrier-Jouët collection, made from a specific blend that confers generosity and spontaneity, while preserving the House style.

Answer 299

It's the most accomplished expression of the Perrier-Jouët style: floral and elegant, reflecting the exceptional quality of the House’s vineyard. Created by Cellar Master Hervé Deschamps, the Cramant and Avize Grand Crus have pride of place.

Answer 300

This ultra-premium vintage in the collection is made in years of exceptional harvests, from Chardonnay grapes grown on two legendary vineyards: Bourons Leroy and Bourons du Midi.

Answer 301

The House of Laurent-Perrier was founded in 1812 by André Michel Pierlot and took the name Vve Laurent-Perrier when Mathilde Emilie Perrier, the widow of Eugène Laurent, combined the two family names after she decided to expand the business. Eugénie Hortense Laurent, her daughter, inherited the House in 1925 and sold it to Marie-Louise Lanson de Nonancourt in 1939. During WWII, Marie-Louise Lanson de Nonancourt ran the business while two of her sons, Maurice and Bernard, joined the French Resistance. In 1945, Bernard de Nonancourt began an exacting apprenticeship, learning every aspect of winemaking from vine to cellar, before his appointment in October 1948 as Chairman and Chief Executive. At that point, the House was employing around 20 people and shipping 80,000 bottles a year. Fired by a passion for champagne, a respect for traditional values and, most importantly, for people, Bernard de Nonancourt inspired Laurent-Perrier with his independent spirit and creative audacity. He established privileged working relationships with the grape growers and cleverly combined innovation and tradition. He created the signature Laurent-Perrier style of freshness, lightness and elegance and developed a unique range of champagnes which are today exported to more than 160 countries worldwide.

Answer 302

A former cooper and bottler in Chigny-les-Roses, André-Michel Pierlot settled in Tours-sur-Marne in 1812 as a négociant in the wines of Champagne. It was in this village, on plots named Les Plaisances and La Tour Glorieux that he founded what was later to become Laurent-Perrier. His son, Alphonse Pierlot, succeeded him and, not having any heirs, he subsequently bequeathed the House to his cellar master, Eugène Laurent. Following his accidental death in 1887, Eugène’s widow, Mathilde Emilie Perrier, took the helm of the business and combined her own patronymic with that of her husband, naming the business “Veuve Laurent-Perrier”. With her strong character and reputation for integrity, she developed the business, restored its finances, and masterfully kept the House going throughout the Great War. In 1920, she paved the way for the international expansion of the brand by entering into a partnership with Sir Alexander Fletcher Keith McKenzie to invest in the British market. Eugénie-Hortense Laurent succeeded her mother in 1925. Hard-hit by the economic crisis between the Wars and heavily in debt, she sold the estate to Marie-Louise de Nonancourt in 1939.

Answer 303

Bernard de Nonancourt dedicated his life to a single passion: Laurent-Perrier. His courage, convictions and energy transformed a small Champagne House purchased by his mother in 1939 into a global brand. Bernard de Nonancourt and his elder brother Maurice joined the French Resistance. Only Bernard survived and joined the Maquis underground, where he met the founder of the Emmaus movement, Abbé Pierre. Later on, he was assigned to General Leclerc’s 2nd Armoured Division (2ème DB). When he returned, his mother insisted he undergo an apprenticeship to fully understand the business, being a vines labourer, cellar and office worker, and a sales representative. In October 1948, aged 28, he was appointed Chairman and Chief Executive of Laurent-Perrier. He was one of the rare owners of a Champagne House to have done all the jobs of his future employees. Bernard de Nonancourt injected a dynamic momentum into the business. Keen on innovation, strongly attached to champagne traditions and to quality, he forged the commercial culture of Laurent-Perrier and created a renowned brand with a range of unique champagnes. Up until his death on 29 October 2010, he made his vibrant stamp on the House of Laurent-Perrier, which will remain forever.

Answer 304

The sweet touch that hits the spot… Champagne lovers the world over are today discovering or rediscovering the pleasure and subtlety of Laurent-Perrier Demi-Sec, quite simply because they have learned how to appreciate it. Fresh, rich and intense, it is the ideal partner for sweet & savoury combinations and in particular magnifies desserts and cakes. 45% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier Over 55 crus rated an average 94% are used in the make-up of Laurent-Perrier Demi-Sec. Up to 20% of reserve wine is sometimes included to guarantee the perfect regularity of Laurent-Perrier Demi-Sec, year-in, year-out. Vinification & Ageing A minimum three years’ ageing. The wine then receives a dosage liquor comprising a cane sugar syrup and wine from the same cuvée, taking the sugar content to 40g per litre.

Answer 305

unadorned, subtle and ethereal. Launched in the early 1980s by Bernard de Nonancourt, Ultra Brut Laurent-Perrier was inspired by the success of the zero-dosage (with no added sugar) champagnes made by the House in the late 19th century. Avant-gardist Laurent-Perrier asserted its independence and innovated by creating a new style of wine: unadorned, subtle and ethereal. Because of the delicacy of its blending, its winey character and enduring freshness, Ultra Brut Laurent-Perrier is champagne at its purest, with zero dosage. In 1889, in a contrarian move against current fashion, Laurent-Perrier launched its sugar-free Grand Vin sans Sucre, which was more attuned to its own preferences and those of its British customerse. This forerunner of today’s zero-dosage wines remained on the menu of the legendary Jules Verne restaurant at the Eiffel Tower until 1913. Inspired by the original success of the Grand Vin sans Sucre, Bernard de Nonancourt launched Ultra Brut Laurent-Perrier in 1981, a champagne like no other, with an understated style, skilfully combining simple sincerity and outstanding finesse. Ultra Brut Laurent-Perrier rapidly found an echo in the light, refined Nouvelle Cuisine then in vogue. Made from 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, using over a dozen crus rated an average 97%, Ultra Brut Laurent-Perrier is made from grapes grown generally in a year with standout characteristics. In such years, which are rare occurrences in Champagne, nature bestows harvests of fully ripe grapes with low acidity levels. After a meticulous selection process, only those grapes with the desired characteristics will be allowed into the composition of Ultra Brut Laurent-Perrier.

Answer 306

Grand Siècle expresses the quintessence of champagne and French refinement Launched in 1959, Grand Siècle is Laurent-Perrier’s Prestige Cuvée, the prime example of the House’s exacting standards and know-how. Its unique style combining finesse, power and balance is the outcome of blending the very best grapes from the most prestigious crus in wines from the best Laurent-Perrier vintage years. In 1955, Bernard de Nonancourt conceived the idea of creating a Grande Cuvée that would cut across the conventions of the time, under which a prestige cuvée automatically had to be from a single vintage year. For him, Laurent-Perrier’s Grande Cuvée had to offer a unique style exemplifying the art of blending taken to the extreme: ‘The best of the best with the best,’ as he liked to say. The champagne cuvée par excellence, Grand Siècle is a blend of wines from three great Laurent-Perrier vintage years made from the finest crus and grapes. The Grand Siècle style combines finesse, power and balance. Comprising approximately 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, Grand Siècle by Laurent-Perrier is a blend of 11 of Champagne’s most prestigious grands crus, all rated 100 %. The Chardonnays are from Avize, Chouilly ,Cramant, and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. The Pinots Noirs are from Ambonnay, Bouzy, Louvois, Mailly, Tours-sur-Marne, and Verzenay. From these grands crus, only the best grapes from the best plots are selected in the best Laurent-Perrier vintage years. Blending Grand Siècle by Laurent-Perrier calls for exceptional know-how. It is a new challenge with every new cuvée: a new creation perpetuating the Grand Siècle style. ‘With Grand Siècle by Laurent-Perrier, what we are looking for is the perfect balance between fine structure, elegance and freshness, even when the cuvée is at its most developed.’ Michel Fauconnet, Cellar Master Cuvée Grand Siècle by Laurent-Perrier benefits from long cellar ageing of seven to eight years, and sometimes more if the cellar master deems it necessary, with an additional two years for the magnums.

Answer 307

Antonine Muller (the widow cliquot's cellar hand)

Answer 308

Pinot Noir

Answer 309

The wine was produced by a grower-producer

Answer 310

12-17 grams per liter

Answer 311

Côte des Bars

Answer 312

Méthode Ancestrale

Answer 313

The first 2,050 liters to be extracted from 4,000 kg of grapes

Answer 314

Tauxières

Answer 315

Pinot Blanc Vrai

Answer 316

A second crop, generally left on the vine at harvest

Answer 317

- Pinot Meunier (later vegetation cycle helps in the Valley due to its susceptibility to frosts) - The Marne Valley surrounds the Marne River, and includes the town of Epernay. Meunier is the favored grape of the region. - Grapes are planted to their northernmost limit.

Answer 318

- South of the Marne river - Chardonnay in Champagne - 15 kms, South- North exposure, vinesyards are planted East facing - Soils: Chalky white (old sediment of an old sea. Hense small shells in the soils - More continental influences. This bought devistating frosts in 1957 and 1985 but amazing summer sunshine.

Answer 319

- Champagne’s northernmost region, situated around the city of Reims is the premier region for Pinot Noir. - Mainly Pinot Noir - Clay and Chalky soils - Grand Cru Villages: Ambonnay, Verzaney, Bouzy - Famous for fuller bodied wines - Pinot Noir provides majestic structure and balanced power. - Not really a mountain more a hill: 12 miles (20 kms) long and 6 miles (19 kms) wide - Vineyards run along its northern slopes, from Villers- Allerand to Mailly- and for its finest, along the northeastern slopes from Verzenay and Verzy through Trepail and down to Bouzy and Ambonnay. - All these Grand Crus are on falaises (cliffs) of Champagne, those rocky, east- facing outcrops of the purest belemite chalk- this provides great drainage during the rain and retains moisturefor hot summers

Answer 320

Very little disease pressure, thanks to dry, sunny conditions over the summer months – the driest on record. Rain arrived in the final week of harvest, but most grapes had already been gathered. The berries tended to be small but with good uniform ripeness, and potential alcohol levels were relatively high at harvest. Richness should characterise the vintage, and Pinot Noir did particularly well. Some excellent vintage champagne should be produced.

Answer 321

Initial reports suggest that a warm, dry September saved the crop from a damper, cooler August. The resulting fruit has good levels of potential alcohol, indicating ample ripeness.

Answer 322

Pales in comparison to the stellar 2012, with a cool spring leading to uneven ripening and one of the latest harvests in 20 years. Summer hail caused widespread damage in the summer months but overall the champenois fared better than many of their compatriots. Likely a vintage year.

Answer 323

An exceptional vintage in Champagne. Despite low yields thanks to frost, hail and disease early in the season, August saw conditions improve dramatically resulting in exemplary maturity, acidity and grape health at harvest.

Answer 324

Notable for its erratic growing season, which started warm and dry but then became cooler and wetter in June and July. Conditions improved briefly in August but the (early) harvest was problematic.

Answer 325

A taxing year with dry conditions retarding grape development early in the season. When rain arrived in August it was torrential, causing widespread disease pressure. The return of dry conditions in September helped some producers over the line, but sorting in the vineyard and winery was crucial.

Answer 326

After early complications a superb summer produced a clean crop of high quality, with particularly good Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims. Wines are plump and approachable.

Answer 327

Initially a difficult, damp year with widespread mildew; drier conditions in August and a fine, warm September proved many producers’ saving grace. Classically styled wines with fresh acidity balanced by sound ripeness achieved late in the season.

Answer 328

An unusually warm spring led to early flowering and optimism which soon gave way to disappointment with one of the murkiest summers on record. Conditions improved towards September allowing a fair crop, with Chardonnay outperforming the Pinots. Above average acidities.

Answer 329

An exceptionally hot and sunny June and July with grapes in fine fettle but a dank August left producers fearful of underripeness. Fortunately, warm, bright conditions in September redressed the balance. Wines are supple and expressive.

Answer 330

Variable conditions throughout the year resulted in a lacklustre vintage, though favourable weather in the run-up to harvest meant that ripeness was assured. Acidities on the low side.

Answer 331

Unusually, quality and quantity were both hallmarks of 2004. Structured, well-balanced wines which have exceeded expectation.

Answer 332

Spring frosts followed by one of the hottest summers on record led to small volumes and typically very ripe wines of middling quality. Some fine Pinot Noir dominant blends.

Answer 333

A magnificent vintage for champagne with near-perfect growing conditions, capped by fine dry weather at harvest. Ageworthy wines with plush fruit held in check by keen acidity.

Answer 334

A generally poor vintage characterised by rot and underripeness thanks to a wet and gloomy September.

Answer 335

Hail, rainstorms, unseasonable cold and mildew made for a testing growing season, but fine conditions in August and September redeemed the vintage. High quality wines for short-term drinking.

Answer 336

Aldophe Jacquession

Answer 337

After about 5 years. We are too accustomed to trying champagne with these notes. True champagne should be drunk older with no signs of fermentation (according to Egly- Ouriet

Answer 338

Ladder of growths (abandoned in 2007. But Grand Cru and Premier Cru titles remain).

Answer 339

Loss of gas

Answer 340

Being a business partner and brother in law of Jospeh KRUG (before he left) and inventing the muselet

Answer 341

For other houses, maybe even as far back as 1840. He and two other generations did it until the early 1900s.

Answer 342

- Softer and more porous than limestone, less dense than clay - Better drainage meaning less root rot - Mineral flavours, crisp acidity, lighter and more elegant

Answer 343

They are soaked with water for months and then filled with vin De taille, this is done for three years. If after three years the barrels still taste of wordiness, the barrel gets the treatment again.

Answer 344

Yes pneumatic presses are now used a lot faster processing

Answer 345

The carnet de pressoir, which must be present at the press throughout the harvest period and available for inspection by authorities. Each year some of the rebeche must be sent to authorities for testing. This provides yet another level of control.

Answer 346

The Rebeche. This is the last of the 2,550 litres and can't be used.

Answer 347

Taille. It is a little more harsh, less fruity and more astringent, than the cuvée. It can be used in the champagne blend.

Answer 348

The cuvée. It is considered the best part of the pressing.

Answer 349

A traditional press. It is an adaptation of the basket press that was used in champagne until the 1980s. It contains 4000 kilos of grapes which produces 2,500 litres of juice.

Answer 350

Was produced at the Benedictine abbey of Saint- Hilaire near the Languedoc town of Limoux around 1531. The wine is known as Blanquette De Limoux. It is a methode ancestrale.

Answer 351

Grape picker

Answer 352

While micraster is on lower slopes

Answer 353

- Quick freezing the tops of the upside down bottles in a brine solution at -25 degrees Celsius. This solidifies a plug of sediment. This is then popped out. - Much easier and more consistant

Answer 354

- The disgorger grabs a bottle upside down - The bottle whilst in the desgorger's left hand tilts it upright, while carefully watching the rising bubbles of gas - Just when the bubble reaches the plug of sediment under the cap, the desgorger pops off the cap with draw device called a cle or la prince a desgorger - The plug shoots up to the air and the desgorger puts his left thumb over the opening to stop loss of wine - Timing is critical: if the cap is removed too early- before the gas bubble reaches the sediment- too much wine is lost: too late, there's a good chance some of the sediment will fall into the wine

Answer 355

Claude Cazals and Jacques Ducoin in 1968

Answer 356

Can be as long as 10 years

Answer 357

The farmers of the Aube broke into the cellars in the Vallee De La Marne towns of Cumieres and Damery and ransacked everything. They then descended on Ay and wrecked a lot of other wineries that were believed to import grapes from other areas. In the following days they descended on Epernay. This meant that the 1908 annexing was annulled. The Aube was relisted in the Champagne Viticole, but only as duxieme zone, a secondary area.

Answer 358

Phylloxera

Answer 359

Recently disgorged

Answer 360

Ruinart in 1764

Answer 361

Is another name for tete De cuvee

Answer 362

Produces 1 or 2%

Answer 363

There are 31, but are the most well known

Answer 364

Christian Bizot, head of Bollinger and nephew of Lily Bollinger. He produced a charter of ethics and quality that many houses subscribed to.

Answer 365

Mesnil- Sur- Oger, Krug, Reims

Answer 366

They used to use the trash of Paris. This was banned in 1997. Went out of fashion in the 89s though

Answer 367

In the department of the Marne and most of them in the Cote De Blanca and Montagne De Reims

Answer 368

Le Mesnil- Sur- Oger

Answer 369

Biologique

Answer 370

Three weeks

Answer 371

Yes, but you must prove that the grapes will not fall below the declared potential alcohol amount. If it does you will be fined.

Answer 372

The juice in the middle of the pressing after the free run juice and before the taile

Answer 373

Are rich in body due to chalky clay soils

Answer 374

That are leaner and racier as the topsoil there causes the chalky bedrock to be more predominantly influential

Answer 375

A royal degree was made to permit wine to be transported and stored in bottle

Answer 376

1729. Founded by Nicolas Ruinart, textile merchant, in Epernay. His son (Claude) moved the business to Reims, where it still sits today.

Answer 377

Forrest- Fourneaux it was established as a still wine producer in 1734. It started making champagne in 1931.

Answer 378

1743 but as a wine merchant was established in 1716

Answer 379

1760 it was founded in Reims in 1856. In 1920 it was moved to Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger, where it is today.

Champagne Flashcards

(456 cards)