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Alevel Geography- COASTS > Chapter 1 > Flashcards

Chapter 1 Flashcards

(65 cards)

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1
Q

What are the different zones in the coast

A

Nearshore( where sunlight penetrates sediments)

Backshore( inland limit of beach)

Nearshore

Offshore( sea far away from land)

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2
Q

Definition of a coast ( open systems )

A

A system, set of interrelated objects and components known as stores and links

Stores and transfers energy and material over different time frames s

Shaped by : kinetic, thermal and potential energy

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3
Q

Are coastal systems open or closed?

A

OPEN

Energy and matter can be transferred from neighbouring systems as an input

Can also be transferred to neighbouring systems as an output

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4
Q

INPUTS / coastal systems

A

Kinetic energy from waves and wind

Thermal energy from the suns heat

Potential energy from the position of material on slopes

Material from marine deposition

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5
Q

Throughputs

A

Stores like beach and nearshore sediment

Flows like long shore drift

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6
Q

Outputs

A

Marine and wind erosion do beaches and rock surfaces

Evaporation

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7
Q

What is equilibrium

A

When ALL the systems inputs and outputs are equal

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8
Q

Positive feedback

A

When a change takes place and disrupts the equilibrium - may be GOOD or BAD

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9
Q

Negative feedback

A

What the system does to restore equilibrium - returned state is NOT what it once was

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10
Q

Dynamic equilibrium

A

System produces its own response to the disturbance

An example of negative feedback

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11
Q

Sediment cells

A

Stretch of coastline and it’s near shore area within which the movement of course sediment, sand and shingle is largely self contained

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12
Q

Are sediment cells open or closed systems

A

CLOSED

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13
Q

How many sediment cells around england and whales ?

A

11

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14
Q

What separates ( boundaries) of sediment cells

A

Determined by topography and shape of coastline

Eg physical barriers like rivers eg lands end

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15
Q

How do physical factors vary

A

Spatial ( place to place)

Temporal( over time )

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16
Q

Physical factors?

A

influence way processes work

May be interrelated

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17
Q

Name the physical factors?

A

Geology( lithology and structure)

Tides

Winds

Waves

Currents

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18
Q

Lithology

A

Physical and chemical composition

WEAK e.g. clay, less resistant
Bonds between particles are WEAN

STRONG e.g. Basalt
Dense, interlocking

  • chalk and Carboniferous limestone- chemical weathering processes like carbonation
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19
Q

What is carbonation

A

When liquids dissolve carbon in rocks

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20
Q

Structure

A

Properties e.g. joining bedding falling

PERMEABILITY

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21
Q

Porous meaning ( structure) and what is primary permeability

A

Air spaces
Can absorb water( primary permeability )

Eg chalk

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22
Q

is Carboniferous limestone permeable ? what is secondary permeability

A

Many joints that water seeps through - secondary

ENHANCED BY SOLUTION

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23
Q

Concordant coastlines

A

Rock outcrops that are UNIFORM

Run parallel to coast

STRAIGHT coastline

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24
Q

Disconcordant coastlines

A

Rocks lie PERPENDICULAR to coast

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25
Horizontally bedded and landward dipping strata ? Effect on cliff profile
STEEP
26
what is an inclining seawards angle of rocks effect on profile
dip of bedding planes
27
Tides
Rise and fall of the sea surface
28
How are tides produced
Gravitational pull of the moon and sun Moon pulls sea surface towards it, creating a HIGH tide and there is a compensatory bulge on the opposite side of the earth
29
What is the tide like at the buldges?
HIGH and between them it’s LOW
30
When do you get the highest tide and what is is called
When moon sun and earth are all aligned STRONG gravitational pull Happens twice a month (lunar) Called spring tides with HIGH tidal range
31
What happens when sun and moon are at RIGHT ANGLES ( tides!
Twice a month Gravitational pull is weak Get 4 smaller buldges NEAP arise and low range h
32
What is tidal range ?
Difference between the high and low tide
33
Micro tidal range
<2 m Enclosed seas like Mediterranean Wave action restricted to narrow area
34
Meso tidal range
2-4m
35
What does the high tide follow
The moon
36
Macro tidal range
>4 m Funnelled coastline like Severn estuary GREATER area influenced
37
Winds( physical factors)
Wave energy generated by frictional drag of winds moving across the oceans surface
38
Higher wind speed =
Longer fetch= larger waves and energy
39
can wind carry out erosion transportation and deposition itself
YES Aeolian processes
40
Wave height
Distance between trough and crest
41
Wave frequency
Number of waves per minute
42
Wave length
Distance between 2 successive crests or troughs
43
Wave periods
Time interval between wave crests
44
How do waves get potential energ
As a result of its position above the wave trough
45
How do waves get KE
Caused by motion to the individual water molecule
46
How do waves move
As the wave passes, water molecules rise up wave front ( originally in trough base! Dragged froward by wave advance Slide down into rear of wave back into next trough
47
Amount of energy in wave in deep water equation
P = h^2 T P- power in KW/m of wave front H= height in metres T- wave period( tine between crests in seconds)
48
Open sources waves
HUGE distances Swell waves Long wavelength Period of 20s
49
Locally generated storm waves
Short wavelength Greater height Shorter period
50
What is a breaking wave and how do they form
When wave moves into shallower water Deepest circling water molecules come into contact with the floor Friction between floor and water changes the speed friectkon and shape of waves W aw slow down as they drag across bottom Wave length decreases and successive waves bunch up Deepest part of wave slows more than top - wave begins to steeped as crest advances head of base BREAKS against shore
51
awash and backwash - braking waves
When wave breaks- water moves up beach as awash ( energy from wave) Backwash - GRAVITY PERPENDICULAR
52
Types of breaking waves
Spilling - steep waves breaking onto gently sloping beaches . Water spills gently forward as the wave breaks Plunging - moderately steep waves breaking into steep beaches ; water plunges vertically downwards as the crest curls over Surging- low angle waves breaking into steep beaches; waves slide forward and may not acc break
53
Constructive waves
``` Low height Long wavelength Low frequency - 6-8 per minute Break as SPILLING waves Strong swash - log way up gently sloping beach ``` Backwash - returns to sea BEFORE NEXT WAVE BREAKS BECAUSE of LONG wavelength so net swash uninterrupted = retains energy
54
Destructive waves
``` Greater height Shorter wavelength Higher frequency Break as PLUNGING waves Steeply sloping beach Backwash - strong Short wavelength - swash slowed by frictional effects of meeting returning wave backwash ```
55
High energy waves ( winter) DESTRUCTIVE
Remove material from top of beach to offshore zone - reducing gradient
56
Low energy waves( summer)
Build up beach face, steeping the profile
57
CURRENTS
Set in motion by winds and spin of warm
58
Sources of sediment?
Terrestrial Offshore Human
59
Human sources of sediment
Beach nourishment Sand and water can be brought in by lorries and pumped onshore by pipeline from OFFSHORE forces - low bands hold the mixture in place while the water drains away and leaves sediment behind Winds waves and long shore drift movements can also remove sediment from the coastal sediment lost from the amount of sediment gained
60
Offshore source of sediment
Constructive waves bring sediment it the shore from offshore locations and deposit it Tides and currents do the same Winds blows sediment from Other locations
61
Terrestrial- source of sediment
RIVERS - major source of sediment input to the coastal sediment budget - particularly time of coasts with a steep gradient where rivers directly deposit their sediments at the coast Sediment delivery to the coastline - intermittent and mostly occurring during floods origin of sediment is the erosion of inland area by water, wind and ice and Subariel processes Wave erosion - source of large amounts of sediment Cliff erosion- increased by rising sea levels and amplified by storm surge Events Longshore drift
62
Warm currents
``` Low latitudes(equator) to poles Have a significant impact on coasts Driven by onshore winds Affect western facing coastlines ( transfer heat energy ) ```
63
Cold currents
Move cold water Poles to low latitude Less influential on coastlines Driven by offshore winds
64
How does ocean currents affect the coastline
``` Transfer of heat Affects air temp and therefore subariel processes - increase of evaporation - more storms -rain -weathering ```
65
Rip currents
Nearshore Localised circular movements of waves parallel to the shore Result in formation of cups on beach

Alevel Geography- COASTS (4 decks)

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