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Alevel Geography- COASTS > Chapter 1 > Flashcards

Chapter 1 Flashcards

1
Q

What are the different zones in the coast

A

Nearshore( where sunlight penetrates sediments)

Backshore( inland limit of beach)

Nearshore

Offshore( sea far away from land)

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2
Q

Definition of a coast ( open systems )

A

A system, set of interrelated objects and components known as stores and links

Stores and transfers energy and material over different time frames s

Shaped by : kinetic, thermal and potential energy

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3
Q

Are coastal systems open or closed?

A

OPEN

Energy and matter can be transferred from neighbouring systems as an input

Can also be transferred to neighbouring systems as an output

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4
Q

INPUTS / coastal systems

A

Kinetic energy from waves and wind

Thermal energy from the suns heat

Potential energy from the position of material on slopes

Material from marine deposition

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5
Q

Throughputs

A

Stores like beach and nearshore sediment

Flows like long shore drift

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6
Q

Outputs

A

Marine and wind erosion do beaches and rock surfaces

Evaporation

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7
Q

What is equilibrium

A

When ALL the systems inputs and outputs are equal

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8
Q

Positive feedback

A

When a change takes place and disrupts the equilibrium - may be GOOD or BAD

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9
Q

Negative feedback

A

What the system does to restore equilibrium - returned state is NOT what it once was

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10
Q

Dynamic equilibrium

A

System produces its own response to the disturbance

An example of negative feedback

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11
Q

Sediment cells

A

Stretch of coastline and it’s near shore area within which the movement of course sediment, sand and shingle is largely self contained

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12
Q

Are sediment cells open or closed systems

A

CLOSED

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13
Q

How many sediment cells around england and whales ?

A

11

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14
Q

What separates ( boundaries) of sediment cells

A

Determined by topography and shape of coastline

Eg physical barriers like rivers eg lands end

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15
Q

How do physical factors vary

A

Spatial ( place to place)

Temporal( over time )

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16
Q

Physical factors?

A

influence way processes work

May be interrelated

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17
Q

Name the physical factors?

A

Geology( lithology and structure)

Tides

Winds

Waves

Currents

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18
Q

Lithology

A

Physical and chemical composition

WEAK e.g. clay, less resistant
Bonds between particles are WEAN

STRONG e.g. Basalt
Dense, interlocking

  • chalk and Carboniferous limestone- chemical weathering processes like carbonation
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19
Q

What is carbonation

A

When liquids dissolve carbon in rocks

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20
Q

Structure

A

Properties e.g. joining bedding falling

PERMEABILITY

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21
Q

Porous meaning ( structure) and what is primary permeability

A

Air spaces
Can absorb water( primary permeability )

Eg chalk

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22
Q

is Carboniferous limestone permeable ? what is secondary permeability

A

Many joints that water seeps through - secondary

ENHANCED BY SOLUTION

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23
Q

Concordant coastlines

A

Rock outcrops that are UNIFORM

Run parallel to coast

STRAIGHT coastline

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24
Q

Disconcordant coastlines

A

Rocks lie PERPENDICULAR to coast

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25
Q

Horizontally bedded and landward dipping strata ? Effect on cliff profile

A

STEEP

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26
Q

what is an inclining seawards angle of rocks effect on profile

A

dip of bedding planes

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27
Q

Tides

A

Rise and fall of the sea surface

28
Q

How are tides produced

A

Gravitational pull of the moon and sun

Moon pulls sea surface towards it, creating a HIGH tide and there is a compensatory bulge on the opposite side of the earth

29
Q

What is the tide like at the buldges?

A

HIGH and between them it’s LOW

30
Q

When do you get the highest tide and what is is called

A

When moon sun and earth are all aligned

STRONG gravitational pull

Happens twice a month (lunar)

Called spring tides with HIGH tidal range

31
Q

What happens when sun and moon are at RIGHT ANGLES ( tides!

A

Twice a month

Gravitational pull is weak

Get 4 smaller buldges

NEAP arise and low range h

32
Q

What is tidal range ?

A

Difference between the high and low tide

33
Q

Micro tidal range

A

<2 m

Enclosed seas like Mediterranean

Wave action restricted to narrow area

34
Q

Meso tidal range

A

2-4m

35
Q

What does the high tide follow

A

The moon

36
Q

Macro tidal range

A

> 4 m

Funnelled coastline like Severn estuary

GREATER area influenced

37
Q

Winds( physical factors)

A

Wave energy generated by frictional drag of winds moving across the oceans surface

38
Q

Higher wind speed =

A

Longer fetch= larger waves and energy

39
Q

can wind carry out erosion transportation and deposition itself

A

YES

Aeolian processes

40
Q

Wave height

A

Distance between trough and crest

41
Q

Wave frequency

A

Number of waves per minute

42
Q

Wave length

A

Distance between 2 successive crests or troughs

43
Q

Wave periods

A

Time interval between wave crests

44
Q

How do waves get potential energ

A

As a result of its position above the wave trough

45
Q

How do waves get KE

A

Caused by motion to the individual water molecule

46
Q

How do waves move

A

As the wave passes, water molecules rise up wave front ( originally in trough base!

Dragged froward by wave advance

Slide down into rear of wave back into next trough

47
Q

Amount of energy in wave in deep water equation

A

P = h^2 T

P- power in KW/m of wave front
H= height in metres
T- wave period( tine between crests in seconds)

48
Q

Open sources waves

A

HUGE distances

Swell waves

Long wavelength

Period of 20s

49
Q

Locally generated storm waves

A

Short wavelength

Greater height

Shorter period

50
Q

What is a breaking wave and how do they form

A

When wave moves into shallower water

Deepest circling water molecules come into contact with the floor

Friction between floor and water changes the speed friectkon and shape of waves
W aw slow down as they drag across bottom

Wave length decreases and successive waves bunch up

Deepest part of wave slows more than top - wave begins to steeped as crest advances head of base

BREAKS against shore

51
Q

awash and backwash - braking waves

A

When wave breaks- water moves up beach as awash ( energy from wave)

Backwash - GRAVITY
PERPENDICULAR

52
Q

Types of breaking waves

A

Spilling - steep waves breaking onto gently sloping beaches . Water spills gently forward as the wave breaks

Plunging - moderately steep waves breaking into steep beaches ; water plunges vertically downwards as the crest curls over

Surging- low angle waves breaking into steep beaches; waves slide forward and may not acc break

53
Q

Constructive waves

A 
Low height 
Long wavelength
Low frequency - 6-8 per minute 
Break as SPILLING waves 
Strong swash - log way up gently sloping beach

Backwash - returns to sea BEFORE NEXT WAVE BREAKS BECAUSE of LONG wavelength so net swash uninterrupted = retains energy

54
Q

Destructive waves

A 
Greater height 
Shorter wavelength 
Higher frequency 
Break as PLUNGING waves 
Steeply sloping beach 
Backwash - strong 
Short wavelength - swash slowed by frictional effects of meeting returning wave backwash
55
Q

High energy waves ( winter) DESTRUCTIVE

A

Remove material from top of beach to offshore zone - reducing gradient

56
Q

Low energy waves( summer)

A

Build up beach face, steeping the profile

57
Q

CURRENTS

A

Set in motion by winds and spin of warm

58
Q

Sources of sediment?

A

Terrestrial

Offshore

Human

59
Q

Human sources of sediment

A

Beach nourishment

Sand and water can be brought in by lorries and pumped onshore by pipeline from OFFSHORE forces - low bands hold the mixture in place while the water drains away and leaves sediment behind

Winds waves and long shore drift movements can also remove sediment from the coastal sediment lost from the amount of sediment gained

60
Q

Offshore source of sediment

A

Constructive waves bring sediment it the shore from offshore locations and deposit it

Tides and currents do the same

Winds blows sediment from Other locations

61
Q

Terrestrial- source of sediment

A

RIVERS
- major source of sediment input to the coastal sediment budget
- particularly time of coasts with a steep gradient where rivers directly deposit their sediments at the coast
Sediment delivery to the coastline - intermittent and mostly occurring during floods

origin of sediment is the erosion of inland area by water, wind and ice and Subariel processes

Wave erosion - source of large amounts of sediment

Cliff erosion- increased by rising sea levels and amplified by storm surge Events

Longshore drift

62
Q

Warm currents

A 
Low latitudes(equator) to poles
Have a significant impact on coasts
Driven by onshore winds 
Affect western facing coastlines 
( transfer heat energy )
63
Q

Cold currents

A

Move cold water Poles to low latitude
Less influential on coastlines
Driven by offshore winds

64
Q

How does ocean currents affect the coastline

A 
Transfer of heat 
Affects air temp and therefore subariel processes 
- increase of evaporation 
- more storms 
-rain 
-weathering
65
Q

Rip currents

A

Nearshore
Localised circular movements of waves parallel to the shore
Result in formation of cups on beach

Alevel Geography- COASTS (4 decks)

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