Chapter 11- Properties of the hair and scalp

Question 1

Disorders of the hair

Answer 1

-Canities-technical term for gray hair
-Ringed hair-alternating bands of gray and pigmented hair throughout the length of the hair strand.
-Hypertrichosis-condition of abnormal hair growth
-Trichoptilosis-technical term for split-ends
-Trichorrhexis nodosa-technical term for knotted hair
-Monilethrix-technical term for bleached hair
-Fragilitas crinium-technical term for brittle hair

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Question 2

Postpartum Alopecia

Answer 2

Temporary hair loss experienced at the end of pregnancy

Question 3

Alopecia Areata

Answer 3

Autoimmune disorder that cause the affected hair follicles to be mistakenly attacked by a persons own immune system
-affects 5 million people in the untied states
-small, round, smooth bald patch on the scalp and or total hair loss called “Alopecia totals”
*Complete body hair loss-Alopecia Universalis

Question 4

Androgenic Alopecia

Answer 4

Hair loss is characterized by miniaturization of terminal hair that is converted into vellus hair.
-Teens to age 40 affected
-By 35 years of age almost 40% of men and women have hair loss
-Affects millions of men and women in the United States.

Question 5

Alopecia

Answer 5

“Abnormal hair loss”
1.Androgenic alopcia
2.Alopecia areata
3.Postpartum alopecia
4.Postpartum alopecia
(most common types)

Question 6

Telogen Phase

Answer 6

-Known as the resting phase, is the final phase in the hair cycle and lasts until the fully grown hair is shed.
-Less than 10% of the hair on your head is in the telogen phase.
-The entire growth cycle repeats itself once every 4-5 years

Question 7

Catagen Phase

Answer 7

-is the brief transition period between the growth and resting phases of a hair follicle
-the follicle canal shrinks and detaches from the dermal papilla-during this stage
-last one-two week/during this phase

Question 8

Anagen Phase

Answer 8

“Growth phase”
~New hair is produced~
-rapidly between 15-30 years old
-slows down after 50 years old
-90% of scalp hair is growing in the anagen phase at anytime

Question 9

Terminal hair

Answer 9

Long, coarse, pigmented hair found on the scalp, legs, arms, and bodies of males and females

Question 10

Vellus hair

Answer 10

“Lanugo Hair”
-Short, fine, unpigmented, and downy hair that appears on the body

Question 11

Wave pattern/Cross sections

Answer 11

Straight hair-round cross-section
Wavy or curly hair- oval to round cross section
Extremely curly hair-elliptical cross section

Question 12

Wave pattern

Answer 12

-Refers to the shape of the hair strand
1.straight
2.wavy
3.curly
4.extreamely curly

Question 13

Pheomelanin

Answer 13

is the lighter pigment that provides natural colors ranging from red and ginger to yellow and blond tones

Question 14

Eumelanin

Answer 14

provides natural dark brown to black color to the hair and is the dark pigment predominant in black and brunette hair
_

Question 15

Melanin

Answer 15

are the tiny grains of pigment in the cortex that gives natural color to the hair

Question 16

Lanthionine bonds

Answer 16

-Hydroxide chemical hair relaxers break disulfide bonds and then convert them to- lanthionine bonds- when the relaxer is rinsed form the hair

Question 17

Disulfide bond

Answer 17

-a strong, chemical, side bond that is very different from the physical side bond of a hydrogen bond or salt bond
*far fewer disulfide bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds, disulfide bonds are so much stronger
-make up 1/3 of hairs overall strength
* not broken by water

Question 18

Cysteine “cystine”

Answer 18

The disulfide bond joins the sulfur stoms of two neighboring Cysteine-amino acids to create (one) Cystine

Question 19

Salt bond

Answer 19

-also a weak, physical, cross-linked side bond between adjacent polypeptide chains
-depends on the PH
-easily broken by (strong alkaline and acidic solution)
-even though they are weak bonds, there are so many they account for about 1/3 of the hairs overall strength

Question 20

Trichology

Answer 20

The scientific study of the hair and its disease and care.
-Trichos (hair)
-Ology (study of)

Question 21

Hair root

Answer 21

Is the part of the hair located below the surface of the epidermis (outer layer of the skin)

Question 22

Hair shaft

Answer 22

It the portion of the hair that projects above the epidermis

Question 23

“Five main structures of the hair root”

Answer 23

1.Hair follicle
2.Hair bulb
3.Dermal papilla
4.Arrector pili muscle
5.Sebaceous glands (oil)

Question 24

Hair follicle

Answer 24

Is the tube like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp that contains the hair root.
*sometimes more than one hair will grow from a single follicle

Question 25

Hair Bulb

Answer 25

-is the lowest part of the hair strand
-thick, club shaped structure, at the lower part of the hair root
-fits over and covers the dermal papilla

Question 26

Dermal Papilla

Answer 26

“Mother”
-is a small cone-shaped elevation located at the base of the hair follicle that fits into the hair bulb
-contains blood and nerve supply-provides nutrients needed for hair growth

Question 27

Arrector Pili Muscle

Answer 27

“Goose bumps”
-is the small, involuntary muscle in the base of the hair follicle.
-strong emotions or cold sensation cause the muscle to contract
-this causes what referred to as goose bumps

Question 28

Sebaceous Glands

Answer 28

-are the oil glands in the skin that are connected to the hair follicles
-the sebaceous glands secrete a fatty or an oily substance called sebum
-sebum-lubricates the skin

Question 29

Sebum

Answer 29

The sebaceous glands secrete a fatty of an oily substance called sebum
-Lubrication for the skin

Question 30

Hair Cuticle

Answer 30

-is the outermost layer of the hair.
-single overlapping layer of transparent, scale-like cells that look like shingles on a roof
-cuticle layer provides a barrier that protects, the inner ,structure of the hair as it lies tightly against the cortex
-responsible for creating the shine and the smooth, silky feel of healthy hair
~A healthy cuticle layer protects the hair from penetration and prevents damage to hair fiber. Oxidation hair-colors, permanent waving solution, and chemical hair relaxers must have an alkaline PH to penetrate the cuticle layer because a high Ph swells the cuticle and causes it to lift and expose the cortex

Question 31

Cortex

Answer 31

-Is the middle layer of the hair
-Fibrous protein core formed by elongated cells containing melanin pigment
-90% of the total weight of hair comes from the cortex
-Elasticity and natural color-results in the unique protein structures in the cortex
-Changes involve-hair coloring, relaxing, thermal styling, -perms, wet setting, within the cortex

Question 32

Medulla

Answer 32

-The inner most layer of the hair
-Very fine and naturally blond hair will entirely lack a medulla
-Thick and coarse hair will contain a medulla
Male beard hair contains a medulla
-The medulla is not involved in salon services.

Question 33

Keratinization

Answer 33

Hair is composed of protein that grows from cells originating within the hair follicle. This is where the hair begins.
*As soon as these living cells form.
-they begin their journey upwards through the hair follicle
-This is the maturing process.

Question 34

Keratin

Answer 34

-Newly formed cells mature, they fill up with a fibrous protein called keratin
-Once filled with keratin, the cells move upward, lose their nucleus and die.
-Once hair shaft emerges from the scalp, the hair is completely keratinized and no longer living.
-Hair shaft that emerges is a nonliving fiber composed of keratinized protein

Question 35

COHNS Elements

Answer 35

90% protein
-Made of long chains of amino acids
-The major elements that make up hair are the following
1.Carbon 2.Oxygen 3.Hydrogen 4.Nitrogen 5.Sulfur
*These five elements are also found in the skin and nails
1.Carbon 51%
2.Oxygen 21%
3.Hydrogen6%
4.Nitrogen 17%
5.Sulfur 5%
(each hair strand)

Question 36

Amino Acids

Answer 36

Proteins are made of long chains of amino acids units that are joined together end-to-end like “Pop beads”

Question 37

Peptide bond

Answer 37

The strong, chemical bond that joins amino acids is a peptide bond also known as “end bond”

Question 38

Polypeptide chain

Answer 38

A long chain of amino acids linkked by peptide bonds are called a “polypeptide chain”

Question 39

Proteins

Answer 39

Are long, coiled complex polypeptides made of amino acids

Question 40

Helix

Answer 40

-The spiral shape of a coiled protein
*This is created when the polypeptide chains intertwine with each other

Question 41

Side bonds

Answer 41

-That link the polypeptide chains together and are responsible for the extreme strength and elasticity of human hair
*Essential to wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing

Question 42

Hydrogen bond

Answer 42

-Is a weak, physical, cross-link side bond that is easily broken by water or heat.
-broken by wetting the hair
-allows the hair to be stretched
-bonds reform when the hair dries

Question 43

Pityriasis Capitis simplex

Answer 43

Is the technical term for classic dandruff that is characterized by scalp irritation, large flakes, and itchy scalp

Question 44

Pityriasis Steatoides

Answer 44

This is a severe case of dandruff that is characterized by an accumulation of greasy, wavy scales mixed with sebum that stick to the scalp in crust.

Question 45

Tinea

Answer 45

Technical term for a ringworm.
(itching, scales, and sometimes painful circular lesions)
-this is caused by a fungal organism and not a parasite
-highly contagious, and can spread

Question 47

Tinea Favosa

Answer 47

-Dry, sulfur yellow, cuplike crusts on the scalp (called Scutula)
Scutula- has a distinctive odor

Question 47

Tinea Barbae

Answer 47

-Superficial fungal infection, affects the beard, and areas of the face, and neck or around the scalp
(do not preform a service on a client who is infected)

Question 48

Pediculosis Capitis

Answer 48

-The infestation of the hair and scalp with head lice
*As these parasites begin to feed on the scalp it begins to itch

Question 49

Furuncle

Answer 49

-Boil, an acute localized bacterial infection of the hair follicle that produces constant pain
-Constant pain, and pustule perforated by a hair.

Question 50

Carbuncle

Answer 50

-an inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue caused by (staph) Staphylococci
(similar to a furuncle but is larger)

Question 51

Follliculitis

Answer 51

_infection of the hair follicle frequently caused by Staphylococcus or other bacteria.
-small, white headed pimple seen around one or more follicles
(referred to as barbae itch or hot tub folliculitits)

Question 52

Hair Analysis

Answer 52

-Performed by observation using the sense of Sight, Touch, Sound and Smell
-The four main factors to consider in the hair analysis are Texture, Density, Porosity, and elasticity

Question 53

Hair Texture

Answer 53

is the thickness or diameter of the individual hair strand
-Coarse, Medium, and Fine

Question 54

Coarse hair

Answer 54

-Has the largest diameter
-Stronger than fine hair
-more resistant to processing than medium or fine hair
-requires more processing time

Question 55

Medium hair

Answer 55

-Most common hair texture
-does not pose any special problems or concern

Question 56

Fine hair

Answer 56

-Smallest diameter
-more fragile
-easier to process and more susceptible to damage from chemical services than medium or coarse hair

Question 57

Density

Answer 57

-Hair Density- measures the number of individual hair strands on one square inch of the scalp.
-Classified as Low-thin, Medium-medium, High-Thick

Question 58

Porosity

Answer 58

Hair porosity- the ability of the hair to absorb moisture
-Healthy hair, resistant to being penetrated by moisture (Hydrophobic)
-Porous hair has a raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs moisture and is called (Hydrophilic)

Question 59

Elasticity

Answer 59

-The ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking
-Wet hair can stretch up to 50% of its original length and return to the same length without breakage
-Dry hair stretches about 20% of its length
-Hair with low elasticity is brittle and breaks easily
-Low elasticity require a milder solution with a lower PH

Question 60

Hair stream

Answer 60

-Flowing in the same direction, resulting from the hair follicles sloping in the same direction
-Hair flowing in the opposite direction will result in the hair having a natural part on the head.

Question 61

Whorl

Answer 61

-Hair leaves the follicle at an angle; the hair will lie in a particular direction forming patterns on the head
-Streams spiral outward, from a center point
-Usually going in a clockwise direction and sometimes more than one whorl can be seen on the head.

Question 62

Cowlick

Answer 62

-Due to Particular pattern of hair stream on the forehead
-Front hairline; short, thick hair, but can be located on any part of the head.