chapter 13 colour cosmetics

Question 1

functions of lipstick (3)

Answer 1

1. enhance lips appearance by imparting colour
2. add colour to face for healthier look
3. shape the lips

Question 2

how to make lipstick more long lasting and matte

Answer 2

● increase wax and pigment (or use dye)

● add volatile silicon or hydrocarbon

Question 3

how to make lipstick more glossy and smooth

Answer 3

add more oil

Question 4

what is lipstick sweating

Answer 4

oil ingredients separating from stick due to prolonged exposure of lipstick to heat

Question 5

what is lipstick blooming

Answer 5

after lipstick sweats, oil is reabsorbed into stick, leaving stick with recrystallised surface

Question 6

role of waxes in lipstick

Answer 6

structurant and keeps it solid

● holds oil phase: prevents bleeding and sweating

Question 7

requirements of good lipstick (7)

Answer 7

● good coverage but natural
● feel moist but does not smear
● no unpleasant taste/odour
● easy to apply
● retains form and appearance and colour
● no sweat or bloom
● non irritant

Question 8

function of lip gloss

Answer 8

transparent coverage

Question 9

function of lip liner

Answer 9

redefine lip outline

Question 10

requirements of a good lip GLOSS

Answer 10

● easy to apply
● provide wet shiny look
● transparent coverage
● feel moist not dry

Question 11

functions of face powder (2)

Answer 11

1. complement skin colour by imparting velvety finish

2. mask shine of face to enhance appearance

Question 12

requirements of face powder (4)

Answer 12

1. colour shade is correct and doesn’t change after application
2. smooth, natural coverage
3. good adhesion for reasonable period of time
4. good slip and easy application

Question 13

key ingredients of face powder and their functions

Answer 13

1. powder: coverage, bloom, slip, absorbency
2. polymer: texture enhancer (esp in pressed powder)
3. binder: provide adhesion, enhance water resistance
4. colourants
5. perfumes
6. preservatives

Question 14

role of talc in face powder

Answer 14

provide slip

Question 15

role of kaolin in face powder

Answer 15

coverage

Question 16

role of TiO2 and ZnO in face powder

Answer 16

coverage and UV protection

Question 17

role of rice starch in face powder

Answer 17

bloom

Question 18

role of magnesium carbonate in face powder

Answer 18

absorbency (too much leads to skin dryness)

Question 19

what colourants are used in lipstick ?

Answer 19

usually synthetic organic colourants
● pigments: determine colour
● dyes: staining, lasting power
● inorganic pigments: adjust tone, brightness, TiO2, iron oxides, mica

Question 20

what happens if too much binder in face powder

Answer 20

may lead to glazing of powder surface bc difficult to remove/blend powder with puff

Question 21

what types of colourants are used in face powder

Answer 21

usually inorganic pigments (most common)
or organic pigments/lakes

● TiO2, ZnO: coverage, UV protection
● iron oxides: flesh tone

Question 22

what is liquid foundation

Answer 22

suspension of pigments in liquid emulsion

Question 23

functions of liquid foundation (4)

Answer 23

1. hide flaws and blemishes
2. even out various colour tones in skin
3. protect skin from environment
4. make skin surface appear smoother

Question 24

requirements of a good liquid foundation

Answer 24

● good skin feel
● easy spreading
● moderately fast drying
● not tacky, greasy, or too dry
● even coverage
● improve appearance but look natural
● good wear
● does not impart shine
● not settling, pours easily, stable

Question 25

what does BB cream stand for

Answer 25

blemish/beauty base/balm

Question 26

BB vs CC cream

Answer 26

``` CC cream has ● lighter texture, ● more coverage, ● better hydration, ● usu. wider range of shades (more inclusive) ```

Question 27

DD cream

Answer 27

combines benefits of BB and CC cream but focuses on anti-ageing

Question 28

functions of BB cream

Answer 28

``` ● moisturiser ● make up base ● sun protection ● reduce shine ● conceal minor imperfections ● brightening ● anti-ageing ● oil control ```

Question 29

challenge in BB cream

Answer 29

finding the right shade that matches skin tone | esp for darker skin tones

Question 30

function of blusher

Answer 30

impart healthy glow to skin and give more dimension to cheekbones

Question 31

requirements for pigments in blusher

Answer 31

only non-bleeding pigments (TONER, TRUE) to avoid skin staining

Question 32

eye vs lip products

Answer 32

eye products are softer (more oil, less wax structurants) bc eye is more delicate than lip

Question 33

how are mascaras evaluated

Answer 33

1. curving power | 2. lengthening power

Question 34

categories of mascaras (3)

Answer 34

● water based ● water resistant ● water proof

Question 35

water-based mascara ● formulation ● water resistance ● ease of removal

Answer 35

● combi of waxes, water, pigment, etc. water evaps readily, creating a fast-drying film ● poor water resistance (may smudge, not long lasting) ● very easily removed by most facial cleansers, even just water

Question 36

water resistant mascara ● formulation ● water resistance ● ease of removal

Answer 36

● O/W emulsion containing waterproof polymers or high (>30%) wax content ● moderate water resistance ● easy to remove

Question 37

waterproof mascara ● formulation ● water resistance ● ease of removal

Answer 37

● W/O or W/Si emulsion, some solvent-based (combi of petroleum distillates, pigments, waxes, oils, other additives) ● excellent water resistance ● difficult to remove: need makeup remover/oil cleanser to remove completely

Question 38

requirements of eye makeup

Answer 38

``` ● safe for eye ● easy to apply ● long wearing ● good coverage ● no oily luster ● no colour change ● no flaking, smudging ● water resistant or waterproof ● easy to remove ```

Question 39

role of silicones in makeup

Answer 39

plasticiser to make film flexible

Question 40

role of polymers in makeup

Answer 40

film forming/texture enhancer