Chapter 15 Flashcards

(50 cards)

0
Q

What is a gyre

A

Circular surface current

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1
Q

What causes surface currents

A

Wind

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2
Q

Which way do gyres rotate

A

Circular

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3
Q

How many currents exist within each gyre

A

Four

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4
Q

How many gyres are there And where

A

Five north Pacific South Pacific North Atlantic South Atlantic Indian Ocean

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5
Q

What is the Sargasso Sea

A

Place inside the Atlantic gyre

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6
Q

How long does it take for each current to cycle

A

Six years

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7
Q

Where is the Gulfstream

A

Along the east coast of the US

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8
Q

How do currents transfer heat and where is the heat coming from

A

Convection currents

Equator

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9
Q

How does the current affect nearby land

A

Moving away from the equator makes it warmer

Moving away from the poles makes it colder

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10
Q

How do currents affect Earth’s heat budget

A

Try to make ocean temperature equilibrium Warmwater north Coldwater away from poles

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11
Q

What is upwelling

A

When pushes water away from the coast leaving a void to be filled with cold nutrient rich water from below

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12
Q

How does upwelling Occur

A

Wind blows water away from the coast

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13
Q

What kind of movement is upwelling and what causes it

A

Vertical Movement

Wind blowing surface water away from the coast leaving a void to be filled with cold nutrient rich water

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14
Q

Why is upwelling significant to organisms

A

Cold Nutrient rich water = Happy plankton = Happy fish

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15
Q

What is another name for the global ocean conveyor belt

A

Thermohaline circulation

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16
Q

What does thermohaline circulation accomplish

A

Equals out world salt water because of density differences

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17
Q

What is the composition of beach material depend on

A

Whatever is locally abundant

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18
Q

What travels in a wave

A

Energy

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19
Q

What are the characteristics of a wave

A

Trough crest wave period Wave height wavelength fetch whitecaps swells

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20
Q

What is the trough and crest of a wave

A
Trough = Bottom of the wave
Crest = top of the wave
21
Q

What is wave period And fetch

A

Wave period = Time it takes one wavelength to pass a fixed position
Fetch = Distance wind has traveled over open water

22
Q

What is wave height and wavelength

A

Wave height = Crest to trough

Wavelength = Crest to crest

23
Q

What are swells and whitecaps

A
Whitecaps = breakers when waves of water get to steep
Swells = Any wave that has traveled out of its area of origin
24
What three factors affect height length and period
Wind speed length of time Wind has blown Fetch
25
How does water moving a wave
Circular orbital
26
What happens to the wavelength in the surf zone
It slows down
27
What happens when a wave becomes too high
It breaks and continues towards shore
28
What is Surf
Turbulent water created by breaking waves
29
What is swash and backwash
``` Swash = Turbulent sheet of water from collapsing breakers moving in a diagonal motion Backwash = Following theswash water flows straight back towards the surf zone ```
30
What happens because of wave refraction
Straighten an irregular shoreline
31
What is a dominant feature of high-energy waves
Wave cut cliff - vertical wall of exposed rock
32
What is Longshore transport
Zigzag motion that move sand down the beach
33
What are rip currents
Concentrated movements of water that flows opposite direction of breaking waves
34
Name erosional features
Wave cut cliff Wave cut platform Sea stack Sea arch
35
What is a wave cut cliff and a wave cut platform
Wave cut cliff = Steep cliff along a shoreline | Wave cut platform = Flat almost horizontal surface
36
Draw a sea stack and a sea arch
http://www.tulane.edu/~sanelson/images/seastack.gif
37
Name depositional features
``` Spit baymouth bar Tombolo Beach barrier island ```
38
Draw a spit and baymouth bar
Spit - http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/56/Provincetown_Spit_Cape_Cod.jpg Baymouth Bar - http://classconnection.s3.amazonaws.com/747/flashcards/1184747/jpg/baymouthbar011331275061103.jpg
39
What is hard stabilization
Structures built to protect the coast from erosion or to prevent the movement of sand along the beach
40
What are groins
A series or a wall of rocks to prevent longshore drift from eroding the beach http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_7QjkBSLD4nQ/SOXR5JK81yI/AAAAAAAAAMM/slNC-br2v4k/s400/EE+SeaWall+Sth+May+1987-500k.jpg
41
What are breakwaters
Artificial barriers for storm waves to strike http://us.123rf.com/400wm/400/400/j0yce/j0yce1101/j0yce110100284/8629193-breakwater-wall-in-bar-harbor-maine-in-the-united-states-with-a-small-island-at-the-far-end.jpg
42
What are seawalls
On shore wall parallel to the shore to protect it from incoming waves http://www.texasescapes.com/TexasGulfCoastTowns/GalvestonTexas/GalvestonTexasEndOfSeawall1908TXOPtb.jpg
43
What is the problem with hard stabilization structures
They don't always work
44
What is beach nourishment
Adding large amounts of sand from another location to rebuild a beach
45
What is relocation
Relocating storm damaged or at risk buildings to let nature rebuild the beach
46
What causes tides
The moon and sun's gravity and inertia
47
how many tides are there per day
2 low and 2 high tides
48
What is a springtide and when does it occur
Very high and very low tides | New or full moon
49
What is a neap tide and when does it occur
Small tidal range | When the sun and the moon are at right angles to each other/first and third quarter moons