Chapter 16 -- Shore and Shoreline Process

Question 0

The area from low tide to the highest level of land affected by storm waves

A ______ is the broader area which includes the shoreline, nearshore sandbars and islands, and sand dunes, marshes, sea cliffs.

Answer 0

Shoreline

Coast

Question 1

Regular fluctuations of the sea in response to the gravitation attractions of the sun and moon.
Usually two cycles per day

Answer 1

Tides

Question 2

27million x smaller than the sun
##% stronger gravitational pull
###x closer
## day revolution
Tides occur ## minutes later each day

Answer 2

Moon
46%
390x closer
50 Minutes

Question 3

Results from sun and moons combined effect.

Average 20% higher

Answer 3

Spring Tides

Question 4

Results from the sun and moon at right angles

Average 20% lower.

Answer 4

Neap Tide

Question 5

Oscillations of the water surface which transmit energy, in the direction of wave movement

Answer 5

Waves

Question 6

Parts of a Wave

Highest point of the wave

Answer 6

Crest

Question 7

Parts of a Wave

Lowest point of the wave.

Answer 7

Trough

Question 8

Parts of a Wave

Distance from crest to crest.

Answer 8

Wavelength

Question 9

Parts of a Wave

Time it takes for successive crests to pass a given point.

Answer 9

Period

Question 10

Parts of a Wave

half of the wavelength

Answer 10

Wave Bass

Question 11

Parts of a Wave

Wavelength divided by the Period

Answer 11

Speed

Question 12

What are the four causes of waves?

Answer 12

Volcanic Eruptions
Faultings
Landslides
Wind

Question 13

What are the three controlling factors of waves?

Answer 13

Wind Velocity
Wind Duration
Fetch

Question 14

As waves enter water shallower than the wave base, the wavelength decreases but the wave height increases.
Waves then become too steep and plunge forward as ______.

Answer 14

Breakers

Question 15

Area extending seaward from the upper limit of the shoreline to just beyond where the waves break.

Answer 15

Nearshore Currents

Question 16

The bending of waves so that they are more nearly parallel to the shoreline

Answer 16

Wave Refraction

Question 17

Current resulting from wave refraction that flows parallel to the shoreline
Responsible for much transport and deposition.

Answer 17

Longshore Currents

Question 18

Narrow, surface currents which rapidly carry water from the nearshore zone seaward through the breaker zone. Extremely dangerous to swimmers.

Answer 18

Rip Currents

Question 19

Shoreline Erosion

Develop where erosion exceeds deposition.

Answer 19

Sea Cliffs

Question 20

Shoreline Erosion

Formed as a gently sloping, beveled surface abraded by wave action

Answer 20

Wave-Cut Platforms

Question 21

Shoreline Erosion

Wave-cut platforms that have been raised above sea level.

Answer 21

Marine Terraces

Question 22

Shoreline Erosion

Seaward projecting parts of the shoreline

Answer 22

Headlines

Question 23

Wave refraction around a rocky headland may erode the headland to form ___ _____ on each side

Answer 23

Sea Caves

Question 24

With continued erosion, the caves merge to form a ___ ____.

Answer 24

Sea Arch

Question 25

A collapsed arch leaves isolated ___ ______.

Answer 25

Sea Stacks

Question 26

Deposits of unconsolidated sediment extending landward from low tide to the edge of the dunes or a sea cliff. Most common shoreline depositional feature. Are continually modified by the action of the waves, longshore currents, tides, and storms May be continuous or isolated pocket.

Answer 26

Beaches

Question 27

Components of Beaches ____________ is usually dry and water that rolls back down the beach after waves break

Answer 27

Backshore

Question 28

Components of Beaches _______ are platforms that slope gently landward

Answer 28

Berms

Question 29

Components of Beaches _______ ____ is exposed to the wave swash

Answer 29

Beach Face

Question 30

Components of Beaches ___________ is covered by water in high tide.

Answer 30

Foreshore

Question 31

Components of Beaches ______ is water that washes up on shore.

Answer 31

Swash

Question 32

Structures projecting seawards at right angles to the shoreline Often built to widen a beach or slow erosion.

Answer 32

Groins

Question 33

Fingerlike projection of a beach into a body of water such as a bay. Recurved spits have a curved free end.

Answer 33

Spits

Question 34

Spit that has grown until it completely closes off a bay from the open sea. Both can be problematic where bays need to be kept open.

Answer 34

Baymouth Bars

Question 35

Type is spit extending out from the shoreline to and island. | Forms on the shoreward side of an island by refracted waves.

Answer 35

Tombolos

Question 36

Long narrow islands of sand formed at short distance offshore Beach side is smoothed by waves Land side is irregular due to storm shower deposits Defined by beaches, wind blown dunes and a marshy area.

Answer 36

Barrier Islands

Question 37

Characterized by abundant sediment, wide sandy beaches, deltas and barrier islands (US Gulf Coast)

Answer 37

Depositional Coasts

Question 38

Steep and irregular, and lack well developed beaches (many west coast US beaches)

Answer 38

Erosional Coasts

Question 39

Found where sea level is rising with respect to the land

Answer 39

Submergent Coasts

Question 40

Found where land has risen with respect to sea level. | Tectonics, isostacy etc.

Answer 40

Emergent Coasts