Chapter 20- Chemical Texture Services

Question 1

Glycerol monothioglycolate

Answer 1

Is the main ingredient in the true acid and acid-balanced waving lotion

Question 2

Ammonium thioglycolate

Answer 2

Is the main ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms

Question 3

The alkalinity of the perm chosen should do what?

Answer 3

Should correspond to the resistance,strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer

Question 4

Porous hair with a damaged cuticle layer is easily what?

Answer 4

Is easily penetrated and could be further damaged by a highly alkaline permanent waving solution.

Question 5

Reduction

Answer 5

The chemical action of waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction

Question 6

What is the action of permanent waving solution?

Answer 6

The action is to soften and expand the hair

Question 7

When do disulfide bonds form?

Answer 7

When the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together

Question 8

What are keratin proteins made up of?

Answer 8

Are made of long chains of amino acids linked together end to end like beads

Question 9

Polypeptide chains

Answer 9

Are long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds

Question 10

Peptide bonds

Answer 10

Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains

Question 11

Acid-balanced waves

Answer 11

Waves that process more quickly and produce firmer curls that true acid waves

Question 12

Exothermic perm

Answer 12

Activated by heat created chemically within the product

Question 13

Endothermic

Answer 13

A perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood dryer

Question 14

Fine hair

Answer 14

Easier to process,more fragile, and more susceptible to damage during the perming process

Question 15

Coarse hair

Answer 15

Usually requires more processing than medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant and course

Question 16

The amount of processing time should be determined by?

Answer 16

The strength of the solution, not necessarily the perms processing time.

Question 17

In permanent waving where does most of the processing take place? Within what time?

Answer 17

The processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first 5-10 minutes

Question 18

A properly processed permanent wave should what?

Answer 18

Should break and rebuild approximately 50% of the hair’s dulsifide bonds

Question 19

If too many disulfide bonds are broken in the perming process what will happen?

Answer 19

The hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl

Question 20

If hair is under processed

Answer 20

Further processing will make it curlier

Question 21

Neutralization

Answer 21

Rebuilds disulfide bonds that were broken by the waving solution

Question 22

What happens if the hair is not rinsed properly?

Answer 22

The hydrogen peroxide in the neutralizer can react with waving solution and cause the hair color to lighten

Question 23

Course hair with strong, resistant cuticle layer needs what?

Answer 23

Needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a stronger and more highly alkaline waving solution

Question 24

After applying neutralizer what do you do?

Answer 24

Always rinse the perm solution from the hair for the last 5 minuted

Question 25

What do some manufacturers recommend?

Answer 25

The application of a pre-neutralizing conditioner after blotting and before application of neutralizer

Question 26

Acidic type of liquid protein conditioner

Answer 26

Can be applied to the hair and dried under a warm dryer for like 5 minutes or more prior to neutralization of hair is damaged

Question 27

Thio neutralization

Answer 27

Rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the hydrogen that is added by the permanent waving solution

Question 28

Preliminary test curl

Answer 28

Is effective for determining correct processing time; expected results ; rod and wrap choice; how color will be affected; and if the hair will break,dry, or frizz

Question 29

Concave rods

Answer 29

Have a small diameter in the center area and gradually increase to their largest diameter at the ends

Question 30

End papers or end wraps

Answer 30

Are thin, absorbent paper used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rod

Question 31

The double flat wrap

Answer 31

Is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed over and under the strand of the hair being wrapped

Question 32

The single flat wrap

Answer 32

Is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed over the strand of the hair being wrapped

Question 33

Book end wrap

Answer 33

When one end paper us folded in half over the hair

Question 34

Base sections

Answer 34

All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into panels that are further divided into sub sections

Question 35

Base placement

Answer 35

Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.

Question 36

On-base placement

Answer 36

The hair is wrapped 45-degees beyond perpendicular to its base sections, and the rod is positioned on its base

Question 37

Half off-base placement

Answer 37

The hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base

Question 38

Off-base

Answer 38

The hair is wrapped 45-degrees below the center of the base section, so that the rod is positioned completely off its base

Question 39

The spiral wrap

Answer 39

Is wrapped at a angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like stripes on a candy cane

Question 40

Double rod wrap

Answer 40

A method of wrapping a permanent wave that is suitable for very long hair

Question 41

Straight perm

Answer 41

The basic perm

Question 42

What wrap radiates throughout the panels?

Answer 42

The basic wrap and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head

Question 43

What does bricklay wrap prevent?

Answer 43

Used to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair

Question 44

The weave technique wrap

Answer 44

Uses zigzag patings to divide base area

Question 45

Partial perm

Answer 45

Perming only a section of a whole head

Question 46

In order to make a smooth transition from the rolled section of the head to an unrolled section what do you use?

Answer 46

Use a larger rod for the last rod next to the unrolled section when giving a partial perm

Question 47

What are many male clients looking for?

Answer 47

They are looking for adding texture, fullness, style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide

Question 48

What does metallic salts leave?

Answer 48

Leaves a coating on the hair that may cause sever discoloration, or hair breakage

Question 49

What do you do when preforming a procedure for a preliminary test curl?

Answer 49

Wrap one rod in each different area of the head, including the top. The sife,, and the nape