Chapter 4- factors effecting coastal processes and landforms

Question 1

hows coastal process and landforms effected

Answer 1

by the wave characterisitcus, lithology and structural geology of the coast

Question 2

the amount of enegry transferred between wind and water surface depends on

Answer 2

wind velocity, wind duration, fetch and oreientation of the coast to waves

Question 3

different types of waves

Answer 3

spilling low energy, plungin high energy, surging

Question 4

whats a spilling low energy wave

Answer 4

steep, low angled shore gradient, breaka t some distance from the shore, foam forms at wave crest and becomes a line of surf as waves approach shore

Question 5

whats a plunging high energy wave

Answer 5

steep, steep angled shore gradient, steep fronted, tend to curl over and plunge down onto shore, strong backswash and destroys beach

Question 6

whats a surging wave

Answer 6

gentle, steep angled shore gradient, tend not to break compeltely, top of wave breaks close to shore, wave slides up and down shore

Question 7

whats wave refraction

Answer 7

waves rarely approach at 90 degrees and concentrate energy on headlands and disperses around bays
at area closest to shore waves slow down as its shallower here so

wave speed is reduced
and wave shape is altered

Question 8

if wave refraction occurs

Answer 8

wave fronts will break parallel to the shore
will distribute wave energy along the stretch of coast
on a discordant coastline wave refraction will concentrate wave erosion on healdnads and deposition on sand

Question 9

whats wave reflection

Answer 9

on rocky coastlines w a deep onshore platform, waves are reflected back from the cliff KNOWN AS CLAPOTIS EFFECT - waves dont break so cliff recession decreases

Question 10

hows wave orientation effect coastal landforms

Answer 10

wave orientation is the direction waves come from and will have a direct impact upon their effectiveness in shaping the coastline.
Due to the prevailing wind being the most common direction, but in different weather systems the wind will blow the waves from a different direction, increasing or decreasing the selective rates of erosion accordingly.

Question 11

what case study do we use for factors effecting coastal processes and landforms

Answer 11

Cornwall and Dover

Question 12

cornwall case study fetch

Answer 12

South west of england exposed to atlantic ocean and so waves have a high fetch and so ususally have high energy
Shown by tall wave height of waves in COrnwall- popular for surfing
waves exceed heighs of 16ft plus

Famous for geological formations such as blowholes, sea stacks, and caves, particularly at locations like Bedruthan Steps and Tintagel.