chemical peels

Question 1

what 2 doctors discovered aha’s when applied to the skin in formulation containing particular percentages normalized the formation and sheddinf of the stratum corneum cells sought a way to reform new layers of skin in the 1960’s

Answer 1

dr.eugene van scott and Dr Ruey yu

Question 2

to the naked eye some of the beneficial changes are what, but the changes are certainly happening on a cellular level

Answer 2

not visible

Question 3

to make the peels used by aesthetian and clinical skin specialists safer many of the peels were reformulated with what?

Answer 3

buffering agents added to make them less irratating to the skin after the peel was perormed

Question 4

what are 4 natural sources of buffering agents

Answer 4

liquorice extract, willow bark, sodium and ammonium hydroxide

Question 5

cosmetic medical skin resurfacing treatments we are deliberately sloughing off or resurfacing to improve what ?

Answer 5

skin texture and stimulate cell renewal

Question 6

chemical peels cause what and which is the process that removes the what from the surface of the skin

Answer 6

exfoliation and corneocytes (dead skin cells)

Question 7

what are 5 types of chemical peels

Answer 7

scrub peels, enzymes peels, exfoliator peels, medium and deep peels

Question 8

it is essensial to know your products what

Answer 8

ingredients ph levels and strengths

Question 9

research has shown that what improves natural cell turn over and actually increase the cell renewal rate

Answer 9

exfoliation

Question 10

as we age the cycle slows down studies show it may decrease from the origianal lenght which is what

Answer 10

28-30 to 40 days or more

Question 11

be careful not to over exfoliate excessive exfoliation can do what

Answer 11

seriously disturb the skins natural process of cell turn over and thin the corneum layer to much

Question 12

what are 6 types of reactions when there is over treatment or excessive exfoliation

Answer 12

dryness, sensitivity, excessive peeling, fissures, crusting or scabbin

Question 13

what layer must an aesthetician only work on

Answer 13

superficial layer

Question 14

what are 4 terms of mechanical exfoliation

Answer 14

scrubs, microdermabraison, dermabraison, laser resurfacing

Question 15

chemical exfoliation is also known as what ? what chemicals are used ?

Answer 15

chemoexfoliation, natural and synthetic substances

Question 16

superficial peels remove what stratum layers

Answer 16

corneum layer and granulosum layer

Question 17

what type of peels typically use trichlororoacetic acid (TCA) that remove the epidermis and varying depth of the dermis

Answer 17

medium peels

Question 18

what peels typically use phenol that remove the epidermis and varying depth of the dermis and is used to treat deeply wrinkles scarred or severely sun damaged

Answer 18

deeper peels

Question 19

what are 6 indications of chemical peels

Answer 19

acne, comadones, dehydrated skin, dry skin, fine line, oily skin

Question 20

what are 6 containdications

Answer 20

herpes active, pregnancy, skin cancer, skin infections, sunburn, accutane

Question 21

what is the term for PH

Answer 21

potential hydrogen

Question 22

PH refers to its degree of acidity or alkalinity that measures what on the scale

Answer 22

0-14

Question 23

the higher the pH the ……

Answer 23

more akaline the substance is

Question 24

the lower the pH …

Answer 24

the more acidic

Question 25

the pH of the skins acidic mantle ranges from what

Answer 25

4.5 to 6

Question 26

the pH of normal skin is generally what

Answer 26

5.5

Question 27

for chemical peels to be effective for skin refining and rejuvenation the pH needs to be what number

Answer 27

2.1-3.8

Question 28

any peel that is over what numer loses its affectiveness

Answer 28

3.8

Question 29

when considering a effective chemical peel such as glycolic acid it is more important to do what

Answer 29

consider the pH level rather than the percentage or strength of the glycolic acid in the peel

Question 30

all products and peel ingredients have a pH level and when using a chemical peel it is important to do what

Answer 30

determin the pH number as the number will help determin the affectiveness

Question 31

when a product has been... what... this means that an alkaline sbstance such as sodium hydroxide has been added to the formula

Answer 31

buffered

Question 32

the objective being to reduce its "caustcity" unfortunatley doing this actually turns the formula into what and making the glycolic acid neutral and essential ineffective for what

Answer 32

salt and water skin refining and rejuvenation

Question 33

ingredients and concetration of a chemical peel play a big role in determining the depth of the chemical peel however, other variables can make a difference such as what

Answer 33

whether a pre peel defatting preparation was preformed, the amount of chemical applied, the length of time the chemical is alllowed on the skin

Question 34

what describes something that dissolves comodones

Answer 34

comedolytic

Question 35

what has detachment or loosening of the epidermis

Answer 35

epidermolysis

Question 36

what is a water binder and draws water to itself

Answer 36

humectant

Question 37

what describes something that disolves or breaks down keratin

Answer 37

keratolytic

Question 38

what are 2 examples of superficial peels

Answer 38

superficial peels remove the layers of dead skin cells from a portion of the corneum layer it is important not to abandon this treatment type prior to the client having had the full course. the ideal number of treatments to have is 6.

Question 39

what are the two best known enzyme peels (fruit)

Answer 39

papain -papaya | bromaline - pineapple

Question 40

enzyme peels are often less agressive tha AHA's and BHA's so they can genually be used for what skin types

Answer 40

sensitive skin

Question 41

what is the most important way to control the strength and effect of the peel on the skin

Answer 41

time

Question 42

if someone is allergic or sensitive to papaya or pinapple it is best to what ?

Answer 42

avoid

Question 43

what are the 5 types of AHA acids

Answer 43

``` glycolic acid - from sugar cane citric acid - citrus foods lactic acid - sour milk malic acid - fermented apples and cherries tartaric - fermented grapes madelic acid - bitter almonds ```

Question 44

when AHA's are used correctly they can help improve what to the skin

Answer 44

hydration

Question 45

what are 2 examples of glycolic acid

Answer 45

they are most affective because the glycolic molecule has a smaller molecular weight which allows it to penetrate more effectively through the corneocytes, if glycolic acids are used incorrectly they can cause mild to severe skin irritation

Question 46

what are 2 examples of lactic acid

Answer 46

they hae keratolytic action on the corneocytes but leave the lipid barrier intact these produce gentler peel that is well tolerated by most skin types

Question 47

what are 2 examples of BHA's

Answer 47

they are lipophilic meaning attract lipids which allows them to unclog follicle openings the most comon BHA's ingredients is salicylic acid

Question 48

general properties of salicylic acid

Answer 48

analgesic, antiseptic, and anti -inflammatory

Question 49

salicylic acid is found in what ingredients

Answer 49

meadowsweat, willowbark, wintergreen

Question 50

what do you do if someone is allergic to asprin or resorcinol

Answer 50

do not give BHA's or salycilic acid peels

Question 51

jessner peel consist of a combination of what

Answer 51

salicylic acid, lactic acid and resorcinol

Question 52

patients must never ... at the loose skin because infection can occur

Answer 52

never pick or peel

Question 53

what is recommended to allow the skin to heal from jessners peel

Answer 53

special calming serums

Question 54

what can lessen the benefit the jessner peel

Answer 54

moisturizing

Question 55

jessner peels can be applied how many times

Answer 55

2-3 weeks

Question 56

medium peel goes to what layer

Answer 56

epidermis and dermis

Question 57

how deep does a medium peel penetrate

Answer 57

0.06mm

Question 58

what percentage are non nutralized glycolic acids

Answer 58

70%

Question 59

TCAS 10-35 % are often what type of peels

Answer 59

jessner peels

Question 60

AHA's are called what and love what ?

Answer 60

hydrophilic and love water

Question 61

BHA's are called what and love what ?

Answer 61

lipohilic and love oil

Question 62

lipohilic are good fro what skin type

Answer 62

oily skin and acneic skin

Question 63

hydrophilic are good for what skin type

Answer 63

dehydrated or dry skin

Question 64

what is the gold standard for melasma

Answer 64

glycolic acid

Question 65

gold standard for acne

Answer 65

BHA salicylic acid

Question 66

gold standard for mature

Answer 66

lactic acid (glycolic)

Question 67

gold standard for dry skin

Answer 67

lactic acid (glycolic)

Question 68

definition of self nutralizing

Answer 68

takes time to react and work

Question 69

what are 3 types of chemical peels

Answer 69

superficial, medium, deep

Question 70

what type of collagen do we want to treat

Answer 70

type 1 and 3

Question 71

what are the 3 phases in healing process

Answer 71

inflammatory response 1-3 days proliferation 7 days remodeling weeks or months

Question 72

what does defatting mean

Answer 72

removing of oil oil degreeser

Question 73

wound healing is typically how long

Answer 73

3-4 weeks

Question 74

glycolic does what to skin cells 6 types

Answer 74

``` remove dead skin cells smooths rough skin purges oil and dirt shrinks pores diminish wrinkles fades discoloration ```

Question 75

wha are the 3 types of chemical peels and their definition

Answer 75

superficial : dissolve the corneolcytes from the stratum corneum medium : affect the epidermis and papalillary layer deep : go through the epidermis papalillary layer and recticular layer

Question 76

what skin type number can chemical peels go over acne skin

Answer 76

type 1,2 and 3