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chemical peels Flashcards

1
Q

what 2 doctors discovered aha’s when applied to the skin in formulation containing particular percentages normalized the formation and sheddinf of the stratum corneum cells sought a way to reform new layers of skin in the 1960’s

A

dr.eugene van scott and Dr Ruey yu

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2
Q

to the naked eye some of the beneficial changes are what, but the changes are certainly happening on a cellular level

A

not visible

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3
Q

to make the peels used by aesthetian and clinical skin specialists safer many of the peels were reformulated with what?

A

buffering agents added to make them less irratating to the skin after the peel was perormed

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4
Q

what are 4 natural sources of buffering agents

A

liquorice extract, willow bark, sodium and ammonium hydroxide

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5
Q

cosmetic medical skin resurfacing treatments we are deliberately sloughing off or resurfacing to improve what ?

A

skin texture and stimulate cell renewal

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6
Q

chemical peels cause what and which is the process that removes the what from the surface of the skin

A

exfoliation and corneocytes (dead skin cells)

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7
Q

what are 5 types of chemical peels

A

scrub peels, enzymes peels, exfoliator peels, medium and deep peels

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8
Q

it is essensial to know your products what

A

ingredients ph levels and strengths

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9
Q

research has shown that what improves natural cell turn over and actually increase the cell renewal rate

A

exfoliation

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10
Q

as we age the cycle slows down studies show it may decrease from the origianal lenght which is what

A

28-30 to 40 days or more

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11
Q

be careful not to over exfoliate excessive exfoliation can do what

A

seriously disturb the skins natural process of cell turn over and thin the corneum layer to much

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12
Q

what are 6 types of reactions when there is over treatment or excessive exfoliation

A

dryness, sensitivity, excessive peeling, fissures, crusting or scabbin

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13
Q

what layer must an aesthetician only work on

A

superficial layer

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14
Q

what are 4 terms of mechanical exfoliation

A

scrubs, microdermabraison, dermabraison, laser resurfacing

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15
Q

chemical exfoliation is also known as what ? what chemicals are used ?

A

chemoexfoliation, natural and synthetic substances

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16
Q

superficial peels remove what stratum layers

A

corneum layer and granulosum layer

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17
Q

what type of peels typically use trichlororoacetic acid (TCA) that remove the epidermis and varying depth of the dermis

A

medium peels

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18
Q

what peels typically use phenol that remove the epidermis and varying depth of the dermis and is used to treat deeply wrinkles scarred or severely sun damaged

A

deeper peels

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19
Q

what are 6 indications of chemical peels

A

acne, comadones, dehydrated skin, dry skin, fine line, oily skin

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20
Q

what are 6 containdications

A

herpes active, pregnancy, skin cancer, skin infections, sunburn, accutane

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21
Q

what is the term for PH

A

potential hydrogen

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22
Q

PH refers to its degree of acidity or alkalinity that measures what on the scale

A

0-14

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23
Q

the higher the pH the ……

A

more akaline the substance is

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24
Q

the lower the pH …

A

the more acidic

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25
Q

the pH of the skins acidic mantle ranges from what

A

4.5 to 6

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26
Q

the pH of normal skin is generally what

A

5.5

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27
Q

for chemical peels to be effective for skin refining and rejuvenation the pH needs to be what number

A

2.1-3.8

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28
Q

any peel that is over what numer loses its affectiveness

A

3.8

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29
Q

when considering a effective chemical peel such as glycolic acid it is more important to do what

A

consider the pH level rather than the percentage or strength of the glycolic acid in the peel

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30
Q

all products and peel ingredients have a pH level and when using a chemical peel it is important to do what

A

determin the pH number as the number will help determin the affectiveness

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31
Q

when a product has been… what… this means that an alkaline sbstance such as sodium hydroxide has been added to the formula

A

buffered

32
Q

the objective being to reduce its “caustcity” unfortunatley doing this actually turns the formula into what and making the glycolic acid neutral and essential ineffective for what

A

salt and water skin refining and rejuvenation

33
Q

ingredients and concetration of a chemical peel play a big role in determining the depth of the chemical peel however, other variables can make a difference such as what

A

whether a pre peel defatting preparation was preformed, the amount of chemical applied, the length of time the chemical is alllowed on the skin

34
Q

what describes something that dissolves comodones

A

comedolytic

35
Q

what has detachment or loosening of the epidermis

A

epidermolysis

36
Q

what is a water binder and draws water to itself

A

humectant

37
Q

what describes something that disolves or breaks down keratin

A

keratolytic

38
Q

what are 2 examples of superficial peels

A

superficial peels remove the layers of dead skin cells from a portion of the corneum layer

it is important not to abandon this treatment type prior to the client having had the full course. the ideal number of treatments to have is 6.

39
Q

what are the two best known enzyme peels (fruit)

A

papain -papaya

bromaline - pineapple

40
Q

enzyme peels are often less agressive tha AHA’s and BHA’s so they can genually be used for what skin types

A

sensitive skin

41
Q

what is the most important way to control the strength and effect of the peel on the skin

A

time

42
Q

if someone is allergic or sensitive to papaya or pinapple it is best to what ?

A

avoid

43
Q

what are the 5 types of AHA acids

A 
glycolic acid - from sugar cane
citric acid - citrus foods
lactic acid - sour milk
malic acid - fermented apples and cherries  
tartaric - fermented grapes 
madelic acid - bitter almonds
44
Q

when AHA’s are used correctly they can help improve what to the skin

A

hydration

45
Q

what are 2 examples of glycolic acid

A

they are most affective because the glycolic molecule has a smaller molecular weight which allows it to penetrate more effectively through the corneocytes,

if glycolic acids are used incorrectly they can cause mild to severe skin irritation

46
Q

what are 2 examples of lactic acid

A

they hae keratolytic action on the corneocytes but leave the lipid barrier intact

these produce gentler peel that is well tolerated by most skin types

47
Q

what are 2 examples of BHA’s

A

they are lipophilic meaning attract lipids which allows them to unclog follicle openings

the most comon BHA’s ingredients is salicylic acid

48
Q

general properties of salicylic acid

A

analgesic, antiseptic, and anti -inflammatory

49
Q

salicylic acid is found in what ingredients

A

meadowsweat, willowbark, wintergreen

50
Q

what do you do if someone is allergic to asprin or resorcinol

A

do not give BHA’s or salycilic acid peels

51
Q

jessner peel consist of a combination of what

A

salicylic acid, lactic acid and resorcinol

52
Q

patients must never … at the loose skin because infection can occur

A

never pick or peel

53
Q

what is recommended to allow the skin to heal from jessners peel

A

special calming serums

54
Q

what can lessen the benefit the jessner peel

A

moisturizing

55
Q

jessner peels can be applied how many times

A

2-3 weeks

56
Q

medium peel goes to what layer

A

epidermis and dermis

57
Q

how deep does a medium peel penetrate

A

0.06mm

58
Q

what percentage are non nutralized glycolic acids

A

70%

59
Q

TCAS 10-35 % are often what type of peels

A

jessner peels

60
Q

AHA’s are called what and love what ?

A

hydrophilic and love water

61
Q

BHA’s are called what and love what ?

A

lipohilic and love oil

62
Q

lipohilic are good fro what skin type

A

oily skin and acneic skin

63
Q

hydrophilic are good for what skin type

A

dehydrated or dry skin

64
Q

what is the gold standard for melasma

A

glycolic acid

65
Q

gold standard for acne

A

BHA salicylic acid

66
Q

gold standard for mature

A

lactic acid (glycolic)

67
Q

gold standard for dry skin

A

lactic acid (glycolic)

68
Q

definition of self nutralizing

A

takes time to react and work

69
Q

what are 3 types of chemical peels

A

superficial, medium, deep

70
Q

what type of collagen do we want to treat

A

type 1 and 3

71
Q

what are the 3 phases in healing process

A

inflammatory response 1-3 days
proliferation 7 days
remodeling weeks or months

72
Q

what does defatting mean

A

removing of oil oil degreeser

73
Q

wound healing is typically how long

A

3-4 weeks

74
Q

glycolic does what to skin cells 6 types

A 
remove dead skin cells 
smooths rough skin 
purges oil and dirt
shrinks pores 
diminish wrinkles 
fades discoloration
75
Q

wha are the 3 types of chemical peels and their definition

A

superficial : dissolve the corneolcytes from the stratum corneum

medium : affect the epidermis and papalillary layer

deep : go through the epidermis papalillary layer and recticular layer

76
Q

what skin type number can chemical peels go over acne skin

A

type 1,2 and 3

laser hair removal (2 decks)

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