Chemical Peels Flashcards
(16 cards)
Mechanism of action for Chemical Peels?
- Utilise chemical substance to produce desquamation of corneocytes , dissolve the bonds of corneocytes (desmosomes) and encourage superficial reconstructing
- Mechanisms of action can vary depending on the active substance or substances contained in the peel. AHA & BHA
AHA Types?
Lactic
Mandelic
Glycolic
Citric
BHA Types?
Salicylic acid
Who is suitable?
- Dull texture
- Superficial hyperpigmentation
- Hyperkeratotic conditions (skin thickening)
- Acne and congested skin
- Hyper active sebaceous activity
- Shallow atrophic scarring
Contraindications?
- Recent sun exposure
- Used active ingredients in the last 3 days
- Impaired skin barrier
- Roaccutane 6-12 months use
- Recent peels
- Pregnancy
- Active infections and sores
- Open wounds
How often?
Superficial light peels: 2 weeks
Superficial peel (partial epidermis): 2 - 4 weeks
Superficial peel (full epidermis): 6 weeks
How many sessions?
Depending on condition and the percentage we use
Superficial peels: 4-6 peels
Percentages and duration when applied to skin?
10%: 10 minutes
20%: 7 (BHA) -10 minutes
30%: 5 (BHA) - 10 minutes
35%: 10 minutes
40%: 7 minutes
50%: 6 minutes
After care?
- Avoid sun exposure
- Avoid active ingredients 3-4 days
- Apply sunscreen after 24-36 hours
- Apply occlusive to prevent TEWL
- Avoid makeup and excessive sweating/exercise 24-72 hours
- No waxing prior and post treatment for 2 weeks
- Can apply hyaluronic acid, aloe or azelaic acid (sooth and calm)
Lactic acid peel benefits, mechanism and suitability?
Benefits: Humectant, gentle exfoliating while retaining moisture, evens skin tone, help mild pigmentation
Mechanism:
- Larger molecule size
- Weakens the bonds of corneocytes which causes desquamation and increase cell turnover
Suitable: for dry/dehydrated and sensitive skin
Glycolic acid peel benefits, mechanism and suitability?
Benefits: Exfoliates skin, smooth fine lines and uneven texture, brighten skin, hyperpigmentation
Mechanism:
- Smallest AHA molecule size = deeper penetration & strong exfoliation
- Weakenes the bonds of corneocytes which causes desquamation and increase cell turnover
Suitable: normal - oily skin and sun damaged skin
Mandelic acid peel benefits, mechanism and suitability?
Benefits: Brightens skin, even skin tone, reduce hyper pigmentation, reduce acne (antibacterial)
Mechanism:
- Large molecule size = slower penetration + gentle
- Weakens the bonds of corneocytes which causes desquamation and increase cell turnover
Suitable: Sensitive and acne/prone skin
Salicylic acid peel benefits, mechanism and suitability?
Benefits: Congestions, breaks down excessive oils, debris = reduce blackheads/whiteheads & acne, reduce oiliness, anti-inflammatory, cell renewal
Mechanism:
- Salicylic acid is lipophilic = dissolves oils and debris within the pores/acne.
- Keratolytic effect: Softens and dissolves keratin = desquamation and increase cells turnover
- Exfoliates pores: Breaks down the intercellular glue that holds the skin together to clear blockages, reducing blackheads and comedones
Suitable: Oily, acne prone, combination skin
Difference between BHA and AHA?
- BHA is lipophilic (likes oil): works deeper into the skin, focusing on clogged pores, congestions, acne and pigmentation
- AHA is hydrophilic (likes water): work on the skin’s surface, focusing on improving texture, hydration, tone and pigmentation
Do LED before or after chemical peel and why?
If there was any chemical peel solution left on your skin and you were to do a LED over which increases heat, it could potentially cause and adverse reaction.
Does AHA or BHA need to be neutralised?
AHA (glycolic, mandelic and lactic etc)
