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chemical services Flashcards

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1
Q

a higher frequency of curl reversion occurs in relaxers that use which of the following active ingredients

A

ammonium sulfite

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2
Q

all of the following occur during the consultation for chemical relaxer EXCEPT

A

performing a metallic salt test

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3
Q

what is the active ingredient in acid waves

A

glycerol monothioglycolate

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4
Q

to perm coarse hair, the solution must have enough ______ ions to break the required number of disulfide bonds

A

hydrogen

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5
Q

when using perm rods, which placement minimizes the amount of stress and level of tension on the hair

A

perpendicular to the base

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6
Q

a client has thick hair that extends below the shoulders. the client wants to have uniform curls and volume. which technique should the cosmetologist choose to meet the clients request while also minimizing stress and tension on the clients hair?

A

a spiral wrap with half off base placement

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7
Q

cosmetologists should recommend that clients take which of the following steps to preserve moisture after a soft curl perm

A

wearing a processing cap while sleeping

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8
Q

the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is

A

ammonium thioglycolate

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9
Q

what is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid balanced waving solutions

A

glyceryl monothioglycolate

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10
Q

what do the most common neutralizers contain

A

hydrogen peroxide

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11
Q

which hydroxide relaxer does not require the application of a protective base

A

no base relaxer

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12
Q

what are the 3 main types of relaxers in order from strongest to weakest

A

lye relaxers
no lye relaxers
thio relaxers

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13
Q

hair relaxing process (virgin)

A
  1. consultation
  2. strand test
  3. do not shampoo
  4. WEAR GLOVES
  5. (if using a lye/sodium hydroxide relaxer, apply a protective base on hairline)
  6. section into 4 quadrants, use relaxer to keep 4 separate 4 sections (no metal tools!)
  7. apply relaxer 1/2 in-1 in away from scalp to mid shaft and wait
  8. apply to roots and ends (without touching scalp!)
  9. smooth with back of comb
  10. process for recommended time
  11. rinse thoroughly with warm water
  12. neutralize 2ce
  13. deep condition with protein and moisture
  14. style, it wont airdry nicely
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14
Q

relaxer homecare

A

regularly deep condition
avoid excessive heat styling

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15
Q

Lye relaxers
1. active ingredient
2. pH
3. processing time
4. best for
5. notes

A
  1. sodium hydroxide
  2. 12-14
  3. 10-20 mins
  4. coarse, resistant hair
  5. needs base protection on hairline, straighter results but harsher on scalp
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16
Q

No Lye relaxers
1. active ingredient
2. pH
3. processing time
4. best for
5. notes

A
  1. calcium hydroxide + guanidine carbonate
  2. 9-11
  3. slightly longer than 10-20 mins
  4. fine to medium hair, sensitive scalps
  5. leaves calcium deposits which causes dryness and requires chelating shampoo
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17
Q

Thio relaxers
1. active ingredient
2. pH
3. processing time
4. best for
5. notes

A
  1. ammonium thioglycolate
  2. 9-10
  3. longer
  4. wavy to medium curly hair, not for resistant hair
  5. works like a perm solution in reverse, less damaging than lye and no lye but not as strong
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18
Q

how does relaxing hair work

A

the relaxers open up the cuticle with the alkalinity
break/reduce the disulfide bonds by adding hydrogen atoms to the Sulphur atoms
apply neutralizer to restore hairs pH and stop the relaxer process

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19
Q

questions to ask in a relaxer consultation

A

how do you maintain your hair?
do you drink a lot of caffeine? (more circulation –> faster irritation)
do you swim often in salt water or chlorine?
when’s the last time you washed your hair? (want to do on dirty hair to protect scalp)
what chemical services have you done previously?
what’s the condition of the scalp and texture? (sensitive scalp, resistant hair)

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20
Q

hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair by removing one of the bonded sulfur atoms in a disulfide bond. what is the name of this process?

A

lanthionization

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21
Q

How does thio neutralization differ from hydroxide neutralization?

A

The neutralization of tio relaxers involves oxidation

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22
Q

under which of the following conditions can a texture service be performed

A

a strand analysis indiciates the hair has low porosity and high elasticity

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23
Q

Which of the following conditions would be cause for a cosmetologist to decline relaxer service?

A

Top answer:
The client has a pins-and-needles sensation on the scalp, and the hair is thinning

Additional correct answers:
The client was highlighted approximately 4 weeks ago at a different salon
The client spends a lot of time in the pool, which has caused mineral buildup on the hair

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24
Q

Prior to conducting a consultation for chemical relaxer services, which document should clients fill out and cosmetologists review so they can discuss any items of note?

A

client intake form

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25
A hair analysis indicates the client has non-porous hair. Which perm type should the cosmetologisy reccomend?
Alkaline/cold wave
26
What kind of perm could you use on a client with a sensitive scalp/fine hair
true acid wave thio-free wave low-pH wave
27
What is the active ingredient in acid waves
glycerol monothioglycolate (GMTG)
28
Which types of perm is proccesed without a heat source
alkaline waves
29
What is an indication of overproccesed hair
hair is curlier at the scalp and straighter at the ends
30
To perm coarse hair, the solution must have enough _____ ions to break the required number of disulfide bonds
hydrogen
31
When a perm is processed correctly, it breaks and rebuilds how much of the hairs disulfide bonds
50 %
32
When using perm rods, which placement minimizes the amount of stress and level of tension on the hair
perpendicular to the base
33
when dividing hair into base sections for perm wraps, how many rods are used in each section and what factors determind the size of each section
one rod; length and width of rod
34
which service uses a thio-based chemical process and is recommended for loosening hair texture that is extremely curly into a larger curl pattern
soft curl permanent
35
when wrapping hair for a perm, which pattern provides the greatest flexibility for directional flow
bricklay
36
a client has thick hair that extends below the shoulders. the client wants to have uniform curls and volume. which technique should the cosmetologist choose to meet the clients request while also minimizing stress and tenstion on the clients hair
a spiral wrap with hald off-base placement
37
what is the difference between on-base and off-base rod placements
on-base: more lift/volume more tension off-base: less lift/volume less tension
38
what is the difference between croquignole and spiral perm wraps
croquignole: wrap ends to scalp overlapping tighter at the ends, looser at the roots spiral: wrap hair vertically along the rod at an angle consistant spiral motion along rod more defined/bouncy
39
which service uses a thio-based chemical process and is recommended for loosening hait texture that is extremely curly into a larger curl pattern
soft curl permanent
40
when wrapping hair for a perm, which pattern provides the greatest flexibility for directional flow?
bricklay
41
before permanent wave service, what is one of the reasons cosmetologist perform test curls
to determine if a different rod size is needed
42
the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is
ammonium thioglycolate
43
what are the types of perms
1. alkaline/cold waves: active- ammonium thiglycolate (ATG) pH- 8 to 9.5 hair type- strong/coarse result- tight, defined, longlasting 2. acid waves: active- glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG) pH-4.5 to 7 hair type- gentler for fine or fragile hair result- softer more natural looking curls 2a. acid balanced waves: active- glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG) pH- closer to neutral, gentler hair type- fine, fragile, color treated result- tighter curls, less damage 2b. true acid waves: active- glyceryl monithioglycolate (GMTG) pH- very low, can be damaging hair type-fine, fragile, color treated result- softer looser curls 3. exothermic waves: active- thioglycolic acid + cystiamine pH- 7.2 to 7.4 hair type- thick, resistant, coarse result- firm, strong curls 4. ammonia free waves: active- monoethanolamine (MEA) + aminomethylpropanol (AMP) pH- 7.8 to 8.2 hair type- sensitive scalps result- reduced odor, less strong
44
what is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions
glyceryl monothioglycolate
45
the process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form is called
thio neutralization
46
___________ combines the ise of a thio relaxer with flat ironing
Japanese thermal straightening
47
hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers shoudl not be treated with _______
thio relaxers
48
what is ammonium sulfite
reducing agent breaks disulfide bonds a weaker alternative compatable with thio relaxers
49
whats one difference when prepping for a perm vs a relaxer
relaxers- no shampoo before perms- clarifying shampoo before
50
which of the following is the simplist form of chemical matter
an element
51
what is an ion
an atom or molecule with a net electrical charge (either positive or negative)
52
what is the electrical charge of an atom
neutral
53
what are elements made up of
different types of atoms (each element has one atom)
54
which of these are neutral, and which one has an electrical charge atoms ions molecules elements
atoms, molecules, and elements are neutral ions are electrically charged
55
what is a molecule
2 or more atoms that are chemically bonded
56
what is an atom
the basic units of matter, with an equall number of protons and electrons
57
what are the 2 types of ions
cation - positively charged/looses electron anion - negatively charged/gains electron
58
what is it ccalled when an atom gains or looses an electron
ionization
59
difference and similarity between a molecule and ionic compound
molecule is 2 atoms combined ionic compound is 2 oppositely charged ions combined both neutral
60
how many elements are known to science today how many are organic/naturally occuring
118 98
61
________ are the basic units of matter
atoms
62
When salt is disolved in water which one is the solute and which one is the solvent
salt - solute water - solvent
63
what is true of all liquids
they are either miscible or immiscible
64
when immiscible liquids are combined they form _____
suspensions
65
what is a solute
a substance that is disolved in a solution
66
what is a solvent
a substance that disolves a solute to make a solution
67
what is true of solutions
they are stable mixtures
68
whats the difference between solutions, suspensions, and emmulsions
solutions are made with miscible things suspensions are made with 2 immiscible things emulsions are made with 2 immiscible things plus an emulsifier
69
what was the first surfectant
soaps
70
what is a surfectant
a substance that reduces the surface tension of a liquid, that allows the liquid to spread out and wet surfaces more easily (surface active ingredient)
71
the overexposure principle is used to describe how overexposure determines
toxicity
72
acid-alkali neutralization reactions occur when an acid is mixed with an alkali in equal proportions balancing the total pH and forming water (H2O) and ____
salt (NaCl)
73
how do hydrogen and oxygen play a role in perming
hydrogen- adding hydrogen = reduction oxygen- adding oxygen/loose hydrogen = oxidizing
74
what does redox mean
the process of reducing (add electrons) and oxidizing (remove electrons) in perms chemical reaction where electrons are transferred between molecules the structure of hair is altered by reduction (gain of electrons) or oxidation (loss of electrons) through the use of chemical agents like thioglycolic acid or hydrogen peroxide
75
hydrogens part in perming and neutralizing
perm/reduce- add hydrogen to break sulphur atoms in disulfide bonds neutralize/oxidize- subtract hydrogen to reform sulphur atoms in disulfide bonds
76
what is the main ingredient in neutralizers
hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) remoxes hydrogen and oxidizes the broken disulfide bonds
77
how do neutralizers work
counter acts the reducing agent by adding either more acidity or alkalinity, depending on what reducing agent was used, to create a ph of 7.0 if the reducer is alkaline the oxidizer will be acidic, and if the reducer is acidic the oxidizer will be alkaline
78
how does acid-alkali neutralization produce water and salt
the hydrogen ions (H+) from the acid combine with hydroxide ions (OH-) from the alkali to form water (H2O), while the remaining ions from the acid and base form a salt
79
what does an oxidizing agent do
releases oxygen
80
what does a reducing agent do
adds hydrogen to a chemical compound
81
what accompanies the rapid oxydation of a substance during combustion
the production of heat and light
82
when mixing chemicals one should _______
use a measuring device, such as a measuring cup or spoon
83
what did the SDS (Safety Data Sheet) replace
the MSDS (Material Safety Date Sheet)
84
an SDS is formatted into ___ categories
16
85
how many accepted pictograms are included in all SDS
9
86
SDS are designed for
use in an emergency
87
in the uniform order of the SDS, which of the following comes immediately after the first category of "identification"
hazard identification
88
who makes the sctrict standards for labels
EPA and FDA
89
do you add chemicals to water or water to chemicals, and why
add chemicals to water minimizes risk of splashing heat generated to be safely absorbed in water
90
who makes the SDS
OSHA
91
an unstable physical mixture of two or more immiscible substances is an
emulsion
92
whats the difference between an emulsion and a suspension if both dont mix
emulsion is a mixture with 2 immiscible liquids plus an emulsifier ex. cold cream suspension is a mixture where the particles dont disolve in the liquid ex. muddy water
93
examples of suspension, emulsion, and solution
sand and water, oil and water, alcohol and water
94
which statement describes ammonia
it is an alkaline agent that raises the pH of hair colorant and can change the hairs texture
95
to increase lightening ability, add _______ to powder lightener
persulfate salts
96
clients who want to add highlights to curly or coiled hair should avoid which of the following
cap highlighting (tangle --> damage)
97
"gunmetal" gray hair is a sign that the hair is highly suseptible to _____
breaking
98
as part of their composition, all permanent haircolor products and lighteners contain both a developer and ______
an alkalizing agent
99
what are the primary colors, secondary colors, and tertiary colors
primary: blue red yellow secondary: violet orange green tertiary: blue/green blue/violet red/violet red/orange yellow/orange yellow/green
100
what haircolor type works well to tone accent pieces
semipermanent haircolors
101
stylists work in a horseshoe pattern when performing a
balayage
102
for a colormelt, apply haircolor in _____ or ______ subsections
horizontal, zigzag
103
a common tolatile organic compound used in hairspray is
ethyl alcohol
104
what is the term for a chemical compound that uses oxidation to disperse and decolorize the hairs natural pigment
lightener (ammonia is alkaline and opens the cuticle, hydrogen peroxide oxidizes the melanin/removes color)
105
the lighten hair to four or more levels, it must be
pre-lightened and then toned
106
when coloring salt-and-pepper hair to a darker level, stylists should _____
formulate one to two levels higher than the natural level
107
what is the first step in neutralizing hair that has a green cast
remove mineral buildup
108
haircoloring products that change color gradually by progressice buildup and exposure to air contain
metalic salts
109
what are the 3 types of base placements for perm rods
on base: 45 degrees forward most volume half-off base: 90 degrees least tension medium volume off base: 45 degrees backward least volume

cosmetology (5 decks)

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