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Chemical Texture Services Flashcards

(85 cards)

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1
Q

Cuticle is:

A

Tough exterior layer

Protects hair from damage

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2
Q

Cortex

A

Middle layer of hair

Responsible for strength and elasticity

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3
Q

How do you change natural wave pattern of hair?

A

Breaking through side bonds of the cortex

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4
Q

Medulla

A

Aka pith or core of hair
Doesn’t play role in chemical texture services
Fine hair may not contain medulla

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5
Q

What does pH mean?

A

Potential hydrogen

Acidity & alkalinity of substance

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6
Q

What does pH scale measure?

A

of hydrogen ions

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7
Q

Acidic substance has pH

…

A

Below 7

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8
Q

Alkaline substance has pH…

A

Above 7

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9
Q

What is natural pH of hair?

A

4.5-5.5

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10
Q

What do chemical solutions do to change hairs natural curl pattern?

A

Raise pH of hair to an alkaline

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11
Q

Coarse resistant hair with strong cuticle suit need what type of pH so.ution?

A

Alkaline

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12
Q

What are amino acids?

A

Compounds made up of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur

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13
Q

What are peptide bonds?

A

End bonds; join amino acids together end to end in long chains

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14
Q

Polypeptide chains

A

Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds

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15
Q

Keratin proteins

A

Long coiled polypeptide chains

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16
Q

Side bonds

A

Cross linked polypeptide chains

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17
Q

Disulfide bonds:

A

Chemical side bonds formed when sulfur atoms in 2 adjacent protein chains are joined together.

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18
Q

Salt bonds

A

Weak physical side bonds that are result of an attraction between opp. Electrical charges
Easily broken when pH changes
Reform when pH goes back to normal

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19
Q

Hydrogen bonds

A

Weak physical side bonds that are the result of attraction between opp. Electrical charges
Easily broken by water (wet setting ) and heat (thermal styling)

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20
Q

Out of 3 side bonds, which is strongest?

A

Disulfide bond

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21
Q

How are salt bonds broken?

A

Changes in pH

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22
Q

What do alkaline permanent waving solutions do?

A

Soften & swell cuticle, which allows solution to penetrate the cortex

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23
Q

What happens when chem. waving solution is in cortex?

A

Solution breaks down disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction

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24
Q

What is a reduction reaction?

A

Addition of hydrogen or removal of oxygen

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25
In permanent waving what is reduction reaction?
Addition of hydrogen
26
What is reducing agent used in permanent waving solution?
Thio
27
What is most common reducing agent in permanent waving solutions?
Thioglycolic acid
28
What is chemical hair relaxing?
Process of rearranging structure of curly hair into straighter or smoother form?
29
The chemistry in perms and relaxers is exactly the same...true or false
True
30
Most common types of chemical hair relaxers are:
Thio Sodium hydroxide Guanidine hydroxide
31
Extra curly hair grows in long twisted spirals or coils, with weakest sections where hair twists. True or false,
True
32
In chem. hair relaxing whats the diff with the thio relaxers that use same ATG used in perms?
Higher concentration Higher pH Thicker thio relaxers with higher viscosity
33
Viscosity
Measure of thick/thin of a liquid that affects how fluid flows
34
The neutralizer used with thio relaxers is an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide, just as in permanents. True or false?
True
35
What is Japanese thermal straightener?
Combines use of thio relaxer with a flat iron
36
What's the active inedient in all hydroxide relaxers?
Hydroxide ion
37
Hydroxide relaxers are very strong alkalis that can swell hair up to twice normal size. True or false?
True
38
Why are hydroxide relaxers not compatible with thio relaxers , perm waves, or soft curl perms?
Diff in chemistry
39
What is lanthionization?
Process where hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair The relaxers remove a sulfur atom from the disulfide bond, converting it to a lanthionine bond
40
Hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer is unfit for perm and won't hold a curl. True or false?
True
41
Metal hydroxide release
Ionic compounds formed by a metal | (Sodium, potassium, or lithium) which is combined with oxygen and hydrogen
42
Sodium hydroxide relaxers Are commonly called
Lye relaxers
43
What are often advertised as no mix no lye relaxers?
Lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide (LiOH & KOH)
44
Guan iodine hydroxide relaxers are also advertised as
No lye relaxers
45
Which relaxer straightens hair completely and has less scalp irritation than other hydroxide relaxers? And must be mixed right before use?
Guanidine hydroxide
46
What are sometimes used as low pH hair relaxers?
Sulfites and bisulfites
47
What's base cream?
Oily cream used to protect skin and scalp during hair relaxing
48
Base relaxers
Require use of base cream to entire scalp prior to application of relaxer
49
No base relaxer
Does not require application of protective base. Contains protective base cream designed to melt at body temp
50
Metal hydroxide relaxers
No mixing | Only one compound
51
Lye based relaxers
Oldest Most common 12.5-13.5 pH
52
No lye relaxers
No mix no lye | But gave same chemistry as lye
53
Hydroxide neutralization
Acid alkali neutralization that neutralizes the alkaline residues left in hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers pH of hair and scalp
54
What does acid balanced shampoo or normalizing lotion do?
Neutralizes any leftover hydroxide ions to pH of hair and scalp
55
In a virgin relaxer application where does application of product start?
1/4 in-1/2 away from scalp and ends
56
To avoid over processing and scalp irritation with chemical relaxing do NOT
Apply relaxer to hair closest to scalp until last few min of processing
57
Keratin bond straightening treatments contain silicone polymers and formalin that release formaldehyde gas when heated to Hugh temps True or false
True
58
Soft curl permanents use thio and what??
ATG and oxidation neutralizers (just as thio perms do)
59
Low ph relaxers
Do not completely straighten extremely curly hair | Intended for use on color treated, damaged, or fine hair
60
Reduction
Breaks disulfide bonds
61
Oxidation
Reforms sulfide bonds
62
Metallic salts
NOT compatible with perm. Solution (thio or hydroxide relaxers)
63
Neutralizer
Usually hydrogen peroxide
64
Mild strength chemical relaxers
for fine, color treated hair, damaged | Also used for texturizing hair
65
Regular strength relaxers
For normal hair texture with medium natural curl Most common used Produces smooth straight hair
66
Super strength relaxers
Used for max. Straightening on coarse, extreme curly, or resistant hair
67
Periodic strand texting during relaxer application
Smooth and gently press strand to scalp and remove product. If strand remains smooth with no visible curl pattern, it's sufficiently relaxed
68
Hydroxide neutralization
Acid alkali neutralization that neutralizes alkaline residue left in hair by a hydroxide relaxer Lowers pH of hair and scalp Does not involve oxidation or rebuilding of disulfide bonds PH of hydroxide relaxers is so hi that acid based shampoo or normalizing lotion neutralizes any remaining hydroxide ions
69
Hydroxide relaxer retouch
Used in texturizing Hydroxide relaxer reduces curl pattern Mild strength relaxer: 1/4 in-1/2 in away from scalp and away from ends Comb product though For retouch apply base cream to previously relaxed hair to prevent overlap
70
Neutralizing shampoo
Use after hair relaxing after you rinse out the relaxer It's acidic to normalize pH Pink- relaxing residue remains White- relaxer rinsed out
71
After relaxer service always:
Apply conditioner and comb through with wide tooth comb
72
Keratin based straightening treatments
Semipermanent They Do not break bonds, they fix keratin in one place in a semipermanent manner Formaldehyde released when formalin is heated to create chemical link Lasts 3-5 months NOT for extremely curly hair Keep hair down for 72 hours
73
Soft curl permanent
``` Thio based chemical service Curly-->Looser larger curls Do not apply hydroxide relaxer if hair has been treated with thio relaxer Do not apply thio relaxer if hair has been treated with hydroxide relaxer Don't shampoo beforehand No metallic dye in hair No damaged hair Dry scalp and hair (no sweat) Protective base cream Neutralizing shampoo ```
74
A correct perm wave service only alters
Side bonds
75
Porosity
Ability o absorb moisture
76
Texture
Coarseness/fineness | Skinny (not thin )
77
Elasticity
Ability to stretch
78
Density
of hair per sq inch
79
Which is more important, porosity or texture?
Porosity
80
Curl paTtern for straight hair
Round follicle
81
Curl pattern for curly hair
Elliptical follicle (flat)
82
Curl pattern on wavy hair
Oval follicle
83
Curl pattern on overly curly hair
Elliptical follicle
84
Curl reforming
Aka Jerry curls | First relax hair then reperm into larger curls
85
Chemical texture services include:
Permanent waving Chemical relaxing Curl reforming (soft curl permanent)

Chemical Texture Services (1 decks)

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