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Coastal Landscape Flashcards

(68 cards)

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1
Q

How do waves form

A

By the wind blowing over the sea. Friction with the surface of the water causes ripples to form and develop into waves

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2
Q

What is the fetch

A

The distance the wind blows across the water

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3
Q

What is the power of the wave determined by

A

How long the fetch is

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4
Q

What happened when waves approach the coast

A

The friction with the sea bed distorts the circular orbit. This causes the top of the wave to move faster and then the wave begins to break and water rushes up to beach and water from previous wave returns.

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5
Q

Differences between constructive waves and destructive waves

A

Constructive have strong awash
Constructive had weak backwash
Constructive wave crests are far apart
Constructive waves cause a gentle beach and destructive causes a steep beach

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6
Q

What are the three types of weathering

A

Mechanical (physical)
Chemical
Biological

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7
Q

What does weathering cause

A

The weakening or decay of rocks in their original place on, or close, to the ground surface

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8
Q

What is physical (mechanical) weathering and example

A

The breakdown of rocks into smaller pieces without changing their chemical composition such as freeze-thaw

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9
Q

What is chemical weathering and example

A

The breakdown of rocks through chemical reactions that change the minerals composition like carbonation

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10
Q

What is biological weathering and example

A

The breakdown of rocks by living organisms such as plant roots growing into rocks

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11
Q

Explain the process of freeze-thaw

A

Water collects in the cracks of the rock during the day.
At night this water freezes and expands and makes cracks in the rock bigger
This ice then melts and seeps deeper into the rock
The process repeats
Causes rock fragment to break off and fall

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12
Q

Describe carbonation

A

Rainwater absorbs CO2 from the air and becomes slightly acidic
Contact with alkaline rocks such as chalk and limestone produces a chemical reaction causing the rocks to slowly dissolve

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13
Q

What is mass movement

A

The downward movement or sliding of material under the influence of gravity

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14
Q

Examples of mass movement

A

Rockfall
Landslide
Mudflow
Rotational slip

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15
Q

How does a rockfall occur

A

Fragments of rock break away from the cliff face, often due to freeze-thaw weathering

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16
Q

What is landslide - mass movement

A

Blocks of rock slide downhill

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17
Q

Five types of erosion

A

Hydraulic action
Attrition
Abrasion
Corrasion
Solution

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18
Q

Describe hydraulic action

A

When the waves smash into a cliff, trapped air is forced into holes and cracks in the rock eventually causing the rock to break apart

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19
Q

What is cavitation

A

The explosive force of trapped air operating in a crack

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20
Q

Describe attrition

A

Rock fragments carried by the sea knock against one another causing them to become smaller and more rounded

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21
Q

Describe abrasion

A

This is the ‘sandpapering’ effect of pebbles grinding over a rocky platform often causing it to become smooth

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22
Q

Describe corrasion

A

Fragments of rock are pricked up and hurled by the sea at a cliff. The rocks act like tools scraping and gouging to erode the rock

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23
Q

Describe solution erosion

A

The dissolving of soluble chemicals in rocks like limestone

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24
Q

Four types of coastal transportation

A

Solution
Suspension
Saltation
Traction

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25
Describe solution transportation
Dissolved chemical often directed from limestone or chalk carried by water
26
Describe traction
Large pebbles rolled along the seabed
27
Describe suspension
Particles carried (suspended) within the water
28
Describe saltation
A ‘hopping’ or ‘bouncing’ motion of particles too heavy to be suspended
29
Explain the movement of sediment in longshore drift
The water approaches the shore at an angle usually due to prevailing wind. The swash carries the sediment up and at the same angle. The backwash moves straight down the beach due to gravity. This process repeats and moves sediment across the beach.
30
What is wave refraction
The bending of waves as they approach the shore at an angle usually due
31
Why does wave refraction occur
Because part of the wave reaches shallow water and slows down before the rest of the wave does
32
How are headland and bays formed
It is when there are alternating resistant and less resistant rock. The less resistant rock (like clay) gets eroded and also deposited onto the harder rock (chalk or limestone)
33
What are faults
Cracks in rocks
34
How is a wave-cut platform formed
Waves attack the base of the cliff and erode it using hydraulic action and abrasion. This creates a wave-cut notch at the base. This erosion continues and the notch grows until the cliff above becomes unstable and eventually collapses. The cliff retreats leaving a wave-cut platform. This process repeats.
35
How do caves, arches and stacks form
1. There is a joint or fault in resistant rock in a cliff 2. Abrasion and hydraulic action widen the joint to form a cave 3. Erosion makes the can larger until it cuts through the headland to make an arch 4. The arch is eroded and the roof becomes too heavy and collapses 5. This leaves a tall stack which is further eroded to create a stack
36
Why are most of the south coast of England made of pebble beaches not sand
Because there are high energy environments and they wash away the finer sand and leave behind the larger pebbles
37
How is marram grass adapted
They have very long roots to help counter severe winds and conditions and shifting sands
38
How are spits formed
Longshore drift moves sediment along the coast in a zigzag pattern. When the direction of the coastline changes the sediment is deposited in the sheltered water. The deposition builds out into the sea forming a spit. This process repeats. The end of a spit may have a recurved end due to changes in prevailing wind direction. A salt marsh may form behind the spit in the sheltered area
39
How are offshore bars formed
1. Waves pick up and carry sediment from the beach or seabed 2. In calm conditions, the sediment is deposited in shallow water 3. This builds up into a ridge of sand lying parallel to the shore If it connects two headlands and cuts off a bay it is referred to as bar sometimes forming a lagoon behind it
40
What is a lagoon
Freshwater lake
41
What are the three coastal management options
Hard engineering Soft engineering Managed retreat
42
What is a sea wall
Concrete or rock barrier against the sea placed at the foot of cliffs or at the top of a beach. It has a curved face to reflect the waves back into the sea.
43
Advantages of a sea wall
Effective at stopping the sea Often has a walkway or promenade for people to walk along
44
Disadvantages of a sea wall
Can look obstructive and unnatural Very expensive and high maintenance costs
45
Description of groynes
Timber or rock structures built out from the coast to trap sediment moved by longshore drift and enlarge the beach. The wider beach acts as a buffer to reduce wave damage
46
Advantages of groynes
Create a wider beach which can be popular with tourists Provide useful structures for fishing Not too expensive
47
Disadvantages of groynes
By interrupting longshore drift they starve beaches further along the coast, often leading to increased rates of erosion elsewhere. The problem is therefore shifted rather than solved. Groynes are unnatural and rock groynes in particular can be unnatractive
48
What is rock armour
Piles of large boulders dumped at the foot of a cliff and they force waves to break absorbing their energy and protecting the cliffs
49
Advantages of rock armour
Relatively cheap and easy to maintain Can provide interest to the coast Often used for fishing
50
Disadvantages of rock armour
Rocks are usually from other parts of the coastline or even from abroad Can be expensive to transport Do not fit in with local geology Can be very obtrusive
51
What defines hard engineering
Man-made large-scale structures
52
What are gabions
Wire cages filled with rocks that can be built up to support a cliff or provide a buffer against the sea
53
Advantages of gabions
Cheap to produce and flexible in the final design Can improve drainage of cliffs Will eventually become vegetated and large into the landscape
54
Disadvantages of gabions
For a while they look unnatractive Cages only last 5-10 years before they rust
55
For engineering advantages and disadvantages think of
Costs How they look What they provide for people Tourism
56
What is beach nourishment
The addition of sand or shingle to an existing beach to make it higher or wider. The sediment is usually obtained locally so it blends in with the existing beach material
57
Beach nourishment advantages
Relatively cheap and easy to maintain Blends in either existing beach Increases tourist potential by creating a bigger beach
58
Beach nourishment disadvantages
Needs constant maintenance unless structures are built to retain the beach
59
What is dune regeneration
Sand dunes are effective buffers to the sea but are easily damaged and destroyed by trampling therefore marram grass can be planted to stabilise dunes and help them develop and fenders can be used to keep people off newly planted aread
60
Advantages of dune regeneration
Relatively Cheap Maintains a natural costal environment that is popular with people and wildlife
61
DisAdvantages of dune regeneration
Time-consuming to plant the marram grass and fence areas off People don’t always respond well to being prohibited from accessing planted areas Can be damaged by storms
62
What is dune fencing
Fences are constructed on a sandy beach along the seaward face of existing dunes to encourage new dune formation. These new dunes help protect the existing dunes.
63
Advantages of dune fencing
Minimal impact on natural systems Can control public access to protect other ecosystems
64
Disadvantages of dune fencing
Can be unsightly especially if fences become broken Regularly maintenance needed especially after storms
65
What is managed retreat
Form of soft engineering which allows natural processes to flood or erode an area of low-value land.
66
What is managed retreat more likely to become the way
Because it doesn’t require large sums of money and as sea levels continue to rise it is a popular choice for managing the coastline
67
Why might some people choose to live in areas of managed retreat
Cheaper houses
68
Why might some people not want to live in areas of managed retreat
If managed poorly their houses can be destroyed

Geography (14 decks)

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