Coastal landscapes Flashcards
(67 cards)
The components of the coastal landscape system
- The coast is an open system meaning that energy and can cross the boundary of the system to the surrounding environment.
It contains:
- Inputs which include kinetic energy from waves and wind
- Thermal energy from the heat of the sun
- Potential energy from material on slopes and material from processes of weathering, mass movement, erosion and deposition
- Outputs which include marine and wind erosion from beaches
- Throughputs or stores including beach sediment and flows such as the movement along a beach by longshore drift
- The combination of these factors form distinctive landscapes that are made up of a range or erosional and depositional landforms created by natural geomorphic processes and reflecting human activity
- When inputs and outputs are equal it is in a state of equilibrium however coats are dynamic (constantly changing) and so the equilibrium is disturbed resulting in dynamic equilibrium
- Changes occur to upset the balance of the system; for a coast this may be landslides, storms or human activity
Positive and negative feedback
- Positive feedback is a negative initial change bringing about further change in the same direction
- Negative feedback is where the system returned to its normal functioning
The coast as an open system (Inputs, components and outputs)
Inputs
- Energy from
> Waves
> Wind
> Tides
> Sea currents
- Sediment
- Geology of the coastline
- Sea level change
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| Erosional processes
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Components
- Erosional landforms and landscapes
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| Wind and water transport
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Components
- Depositional landforms and landscapes
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| Wind and water transport
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Outputs
- Dissipation of wave energy
- Accumulation of sediment above the tidal limit
- Sediment removed beyond local sediment cells
Sediment cells
- Sediment movement occurs in distinct areas called cells - a stretch of coastline within which the movement of sediment, sand and shingle is largely self controlled
- If part of a larger cell, they are called sub cells.
- Sediment cells are an example of a closed system. While there are inputs and outputs of energy, the sediment stays largely within the cell.
Wind
- Wind is the primary source of energy for a range of other processes, e.g. erosion and transportation
Wind energy:
- Many coastlines have a prevailing wind direction
- Spatial variation in energy as the result of varying wind strength and duration
- The energy of a wave is dependant upon the strengths of the wind, its duration and the length of fetch
- Wind creates waves due to frictional drag
- Length of fetch determines the size and energy of waves
Wave formation
- waves are undulations on the surface of the sea driven by wind
Fetch
- The distance a wave travels over the sea/ ocean
Height
- The difference between the crest (the highest part) and the trough (the lowest part) of a wave
Length
- The distance between crests
Frequency
- Wave features lead to distinctions between swell waves - waves formed in open oceans with a wave period (time between crests) of up to 20 seconds and storm waves - waves with a short length, greater height and wave period up to 5 seconds
Waves developing and breaking
- A wave enters a shallow water
- Friction with the sea bed increases, causing the wave to slow down
- The wave length decreases and successive waves start to bunch up
- The wave increases in height …
- And plunges or breaks onto the shoreline
- Breaking waves can be spilling (steep waves on gently sloping beaches), plunging (steep waves on steep beaches) or surging (low angle waves on steep beaches)
- The wash of water up the beach is the swash; the drag back down the beach is the backwash
Constructive waves
- Low, long length (up to 100m), low frequency (6-8 per minute), gentle spill on to the shore
- The swash loses volume and momentum, leading to a weak backwash and low sediment movement off the beach.
- Swash energy exceeds backwash energy
- Material is slowly and gradually moved up the beach forming berms
Destructive waves
- High, steep, high frequency (10-14 per minute) rapid approach to shoreline, little forward movement of the water, powerful backwash, sediment is pulled away from the beach
- Swash energy is less than backwash energy
- Very little material is moved up the beach forming storm beaches
Wave refraction
Wave refraction is the process by which waves break on to an irregularly shapes coastline, e.g. headland separating two bays
- Waves drag in the shallow water approaching a headland
- Waves become high, steep and short
- The part of the wave in the deeper water moves forward at a faster pace, causing the wave to bend
- The low-energy wave spills into the bays as most of the wave energy is concentrated on the headland
Tidal cycles
The periodic rise and fall of the sea surface is produced by the gravitational pull of the moon and (to a lesser extent) the sun
- The moon pulls water towards it, creating a high tide
- There is a compensating ‘bulge’ on the opposite side of the earth
- At locations between the two bulges, low tide occurs
- Highest tide occur when the moon, earth and sun are all aligned and so gravitational pull is at its strongest = spring tides (have a high tidal range)
- When the moon and the sun are at right angles to each other, the gravitational pull i weak = neap tides (low tidal range)
Tidal range
- Tidal range is the vertical difference in height between the consecutive high and low water over a tidal cycle
- Tidal range is a significant factor in development of coastlines as it influences where wave action occurs, the weathering processes and the impact of processes between tides, such as scouring
Lithology (Geology)
- Lithology refers to the chemical and physical structures of rocks. This has an impact on physical processes such as weathering, mass movement and erosion
- Weak rocks such as clay erode faster than resistant rocks such as basalt.
- Chalk and limestone are susceptible to chemical weathering because of their calcium carbonate content, which is soluble in weak acids
Structure (Geology)
- Structure refers to features of jointing, faulting and bedding planes in rock and also so its permeability*. Permeable rocks include chalk (water absorbed through tiny pores) and limestone (water absorbed through joints)
Structure also affects the shape of the coastline:
- Where rocks lie parallel to the coastline, it tends to be straight or concordant
- Where rocks lie at right angles to the coast, a series of headlands and bays are formed according to the location of weak or resistant rock - this is a discordant coastline
Structure also affects the ‘dip’ of rocks towards the coastline:
- Landward dipping rock layers lead to steep cliffs
- For seaward-dipping rock layers, cliffs follow the angle of the dip
*Permeability: The ability to absorb water through joints and pores
Ocean currents
Currents are the permanent or seasonal movement in the seas and oceans
Types of currents
Type
- Longshore currents
Description
- Most waves approach the shoreline at an angle. This creates a current of water running parallel to the shoreline
Effect
- Transports sediment parallel to the shoreline
Type
- Rip currents
Description
- These are strong currents moving away from the shoreline as a result of a build up of sea water and energy along the coastline
Effect
- Creates beach features such as cusps
Type
- Upwelling
Description
- The global pattern of currents circulating in the oceans can caused deep, cold water to move towards the surface, displacing the warmer surface water
Effect
- A cold current rich in nutrients
Global patterns of oceans currents
- The global patterns of ocean currents is generated by the earths rotation and the currents are set in motion by the wind
- Warm ocean currents transfer heat from low latitudes, and cold ocean currents from high to low latitudes
- The transfer of heat energy is significant to coastal development as it affects air temperature and therefore sub-aerial processes*
*Sub-aerial processes: A collective term for weathering and mass movement processes
Coastal sediment is supplied from a variety of sources
Coastal sediments form depositional features such as mudflats, and on coastlines there is a delicate balance between the input and removal of sediment, which is referred to as a sediment budget:
- More material added than removed = a positive budget (accretion of material) –> shoreline builds to the sea
- More material removed than added = a negative budget –> shoreline recedes landward
- Calculating sediment budget is complex, as all possible inputs, stores (sinks) and outputs of sediment need to be identified
Geomorphic processes (Coastal sub-aerial [land based] processes) {On flash card}
Coastal sub-aerial (land based) processes
- Run off
- Mass movement
> Landslide
> Rock fall
> Mudflow
> Slumping
> Soil creep - Sub-aerial weathering
> Biological
> Chemical
–> Oxidation
–> Hydration
–> Hydrolysis
–> Carbonation
> Mechanical
–> Freeze-thaw
–> Pressure release
Geomorphic processes (Coastal marine processes) {On flash card}
Coastal marine processes
- Marine deposition
> Powerful swash
> Slow waves after breaking
> Accumulation of sediment faster than removal
> Aeolian deposition
–> Entrainment, transport and deposition of sediment by wind
- Marine transportation
> Traction
> Saltation
> Suspension
> Solution
> Longshore drift - Marine erosion
> Hydraulic actions
> Wave quarrying
> Abrasion
> Attrition
> Solution (corrosion)
> Cavitation - Factors affecting erosion
> Wave characteristics
> Fetch
> Sea depth
> Geology
> Human activity
> Beach presence
> Shape of coastline
weathering processes
- Weathering processes uses energy to break down material from surface or near - surface rock
- Weathering processes weaken rock and provide material that is then used in erosion
- Weathering is a significant process in the formation of coastal landforms
- There are three types of weathering:
> Physical (or mechanical)
> Chemical (involving chemical reactions)
> Biological (the result of plant and animal activity)
Processes of PHYSICAL (mechanical) weathering in coastal environments
- Freeze thaw
- Pressure release
- Thermal expansion
- Salt crystallisation
Freeze thaw
Water enters cracks/ joints and expands by nearly 10% when it freezes. In confined spaces this exerts pressure on the rocks, causing it to split or prices to break off, even in very resistant rock.
Pressure release
When overlying rocks are removed by weathering and erosion, the underlying rock expands and fractures parallel to the surface. This is significant in the exposure of sub-surface rocks such as granite and is also known as dilation. The parallel fractures are sometimes called pseudo-bedding planes