Coastal landscapes Flashcards

(67 cards)

1
Q

The components of the coastal landscape system

A
  • The coast is an open system meaning that energy and can cross the boundary of the system to the surrounding environment.

It contains:
- Inputs which include kinetic energy from waves and wind
- Thermal energy from the heat of the sun
- Potential energy from material on slopes and material from processes of weathering, mass movement, erosion and deposition
- Outputs which include marine and wind erosion from beaches
- Throughputs or stores including beach sediment and flows such as the movement along a beach by longshore drift

  • The combination of these factors form distinctive landscapes that are made up of a range or erosional and depositional landforms created by natural geomorphic processes and reflecting human activity
  • When inputs and outputs are equal it is in a state of equilibrium however coats are dynamic (constantly changing) and so the equilibrium is disturbed resulting in dynamic equilibrium
  • Changes occur to upset the balance of the system; for a coast this may be landslides, storms or human activity
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2
Q

Positive and negative feedback

A
  • Positive feedback is a negative initial change bringing about further change in the same direction
  • Negative feedback is where the system returned to its normal functioning
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3
Q

The coast as an open system (Inputs, components and outputs)

A

Inputs
- Energy from
> Waves
> Wind
> Tides
> Sea currents
- Sediment
- Geology of the coastline
- Sea level change
|
| Erosional processes
v
Components
- Erosional landforms and landscapes
|
| Wind and water transport
v
Components
- Depositional landforms and landscapes
|
| Wind and water transport
v
Outputs
- Dissipation of wave energy
- Accumulation of sediment above the tidal limit
- Sediment removed beyond local sediment cells

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4
Q

Sediment cells

A
  • Sediment movement occurs in distinct areas called cells - a stretch of coastline within which the movement of sediment, sand and shingle is largely self controlled
  • If part of a larger cell, they are called sub cells.
  • Sediment cells are an example of a closed system. While there are inputs and outputs of energy, the sediment stays largely within the cell.
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5
Q

Wind

A
  • Wind is the primary source of energy for a range of other processes, e.g. erosion and transportation

Wind energy:
- Many coastlines have a prevailing wind direction
- Spatial variation in energy as the result of varying wind strength and duration
- The energy of a wave is dependant upon the strengths of the wind, its duration and the length of fetch
- Wind creates waves due to frictional drag
- Length of fetch determines the size and energy of waves

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6
Q

Wave formation

A
  • waves are undulations on the surface of the sea driven by wind

Fetch
- The distance a wave travels over the sea/ ocean

Height
- The difference between the crest (the highest part) and the trough (the lowest part) of a wave

Length
- The distance between crests

Frequency
- Wave features lead to distinctions between swell waves - waves formed in open oceans with a wave period (time between crests) of up to 20 seconds and storm waves - waves with a short length, greater height and wave period up to 5 seconds

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7
Q

Waves developing and breaking

A
  1. A wave enters a shallow water
  2. Friction with the sea bed increases, causing the wave to slow down
  3. The wave length decreases and successive waves start to bunch up
  4. The wave increases in height …
  5. And plunges or breaks onto the shoreline
  • Breaking waves can be spilling (steep waves on gently sloping beaches), plunging (steep waves on steep beaches) or surging (low angle waves on steep beaches)
  • The wash of water up the beach is the swash; the drag back down the beach is the backwash
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8
Q

Constructive waves

A
  • Low, long length (up to 100m), low frequency (6-8 per minute), gentle spill on to the shore
  • The swash loses volume and momentum, leading to a weak backwash and low sediment movement off the beach.
  • Swash energy exceeds backwash energy
  • Material is slowly and gradually moved up the beach forming berms
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9
Q

Destructive waves

A
  • High, steep, high frequency (10-14 per minute) rapid approach to shoreline, little forward movement of the water, powerful backwash, sediment is pulled away from the beach
  • Swash energy is less than backwash energy
  • Very little material is moved up the beach forming storm beaches
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10
Q

Wave refraction

A

Wave refraction is the process by which waves break on to an irregularly shapes coastline, e.g. headland separating two bays
- Waves drag in the shallow water approaching a headland
- Waves become high, steep and short
- The part of the wave in the deeper water moves forward at a faster pace, causing the wave to bend
- The low-energy wave spills into the bays as most of the wave energy is concentrated on the headland

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11
Q

Tidal cycles

A

The periodic rise and fall of the sea surface is produced by the gravitational pull of the moon and (to a lesser extent) the sun
- The moon pulls water towards it, creating a high tide
- There is a compensating ‘bulge’ on the opposite side of the earth
- At locations between the two bulges, low tide occurs
- Highest tide occur when the moon, earth and sun are all aligned and so gravitational pull is at its strongest = spring tides (have a high tidal range)
- When the moon and the sun are at right angles to each other, the gravitational pull i weak = neap tides (low tidal range)

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12
Q

Tidal range

A
  • Tidal range is the vertical difference in height between the consecutive high and low water over a tidal cycle
  • Tidal range is a significant factor in development of coastlines as it influences where wave action occurs, the weathering processes and the impact of processes between tides, such as scouring
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12
Q

Lithology (Geology)

A
  • Lithology refers to the chemical and physical structures of rocks. This has an impact on physical processes such as weathering, mass movement and erosion
  • Weak rocks such as clay erode faster than resistant rocks such as basalt.
  • Chalk and limestone are susceptible to chemical weathering because of their calcium carbonate content, which is soluble in weak acids
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13
Q

Structure (Geology)

A
  • Structure refers to features of jointing, faulting and bedding planes in rock and also so its permeability*. Permeable rocks include chalk (water absorbed through tiny pores) and limestone (water absorbed through joints)

Structure also affects the shape of the coastline:
- Where rocks lie parallel to the coastline, it tends to be straight or concordant
- Where rocks lie at right angles to the coast, a series of headlands and bays are formed according to the location of weak or resistant rock - this is a discordant coastline

Structure also affects the ‘dip’ of rocks towards the coastline:
- Landward dipping rock layers lead to steep cliffs
- For seaward-dipping rock layers, cliffs follow the angle of the dip

*Permeability: The ability to absorb water through joints and pores

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14
Q

Ocean currents

A

Currents are the permanent or seasonal movement in the seas and oceans

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15
Q

Types of currents

A

Type
- Longshore currents
Description
- Most waves approach the shoreline at an angle. This creates a current of water running parallel to the shoreline
Effect
- Transports sediment parallel to the shoreline

Type
- Rip currents
Description
- These are strong currents moving away from the shoreline as a result of a build up of sea water and energy along the coastline
Effect
- Creates beach features such as cusps

Type
- Upwelling
Description
- The global pattern of currents circulating in the oceans can caused deep, cold water to move towards the surface, displacing the warmer surface water
Effect
- A cold current rich in nutrients

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16
Q

Global patterns of oceans currents

A
  • The global patterns of ocean currents is generated by the earths rotation and the currents are set in motion by the wind
  • Warm ocean currents transfer heat from low latitudes, and cold ocean currents from high to low latitudes
  • The transfer of heat energy is significant to coastal development as it affects air temperature and therefore sub-aerial processes*

*Sub-aerial processes: A collective term for weathering and mass movement processes

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17
Q

Coastal sediment is supplied from a variety of sources

A

Coastal sediments form depositional features such as mudflats, and on coastlines there is a delicate balance between the input and removal of sediment, which is referred to as a sediment budget:
- More material added than removed = a positive budget (accretion of material) –> shoreline builds to the sea
- More material removed than added = a negative budget –> shoreline recedes landward
- Calculating sediment budget is complex, as all possible inputs, stores (sinks) and outputs of sediment need to be identified

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18
Q

Geomorphic processes (Coastal sub-aerial [land based] processes) {On flash card}

A

Coastal sub-aerial (land based) processes
- Run off

  • Mass movement
    > Landslide
    > Rock fall
    > Mudflow
    > Slumping
    > Soil creep
  • Sub-aerial weathering
    > Biological
    > Chemical
    –> Oxidation
    –> Hydration
    –> Hydrolysis
    –> Carbonation
    > Mechanical
    –> Freeze-thaw
    –> Pressure release
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19
Q

Geomorphic processes (Coastal marine processes) {On flash card}

A

Coastal marine processes
- Marine deposition
> Powerful swash
> Slow waves after breaking
> Accumulation of sediment faster than removal
> Aeolian deposition
–> Entrainment, transport and deposition of sediment by wind

  • Marine transportation
    > Traction
    > Saltation
    > Suspension
    > Solution
    > Longshore drift
  • Marine erosion
    > Hydraulic actions
    > Wave quarrying
    > Abrasion
    > Attrition
    > Solution (corrosion)
    > Cavitation
  • Factors affecting erosion
    > Wave characteristics
    > Fetch
    > Sea depth
    > Geology
    > Human activity
    > Beach presence
    > Shape of coastline
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20
Q

weathering processes

A
  • Weathering processes uses energy to break down material from surface or near - surface rock
  • Weathering processes weaken rock and provide material that is then used in erosion
  • Weathering is a significant process in the formation of coastal landforms
  • There are three types of weathering:
    > Physical (or mechanical)
    > Chemical (involving chemical reactions)
    > Biological (the result of plant and animal activity)
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21
Q

Processes of PHYSICAL (mechanical) weathering in coastal environments

A
  • Freeze thaw
  • Pressure release
  • Thermal expansion
  • Salt crystallisation
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22
Q

Freeze thaw

A

Water enters cracks/ joints and expands by nearly 10% when it freezes. In confined spaces this exerts pressure on the rocks, causing it to split or prices to break off, even in very resistant rock.

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23
Q

Pressure release

A

When overlying rocks are removed by weathering and erosion, the underlying rock expands and fractures parallel to the surface. This is significant in the exposure of sub-surface rocks such as granite and is also known as dilation. The parallel fractures are sometimes called pseudo-bedding planes

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24
Thermal expansion
Rocks expand when heated and contract when cooled. If they are subjected to frequent cycles of temperature change then the outer layer may crack and flake off. This is also as insolation weathering, although experiments have cast doubts on its effectiveness unless water is present
25
Salt crystallisation
Solutions of salt can seep into the pore spaces in porous rocks. Here the salt precipitate, forming crystals. The growth of these crystals creates stress in the rock, causing it to disintegrate. Sodium sulphate and sodium carbonate are particularly effective, expanding by 300% in areas of temperatures fluctuating around 26-28°C
26
Processes of CHEMICAL WEATHERING in coastal environments
- Oxidation - Carbonation - Solution - Hydrolysis - Hydration
27
Oxidation
Some minerals in rocks react with oxygen, either in the air or in water. Iron is especially susceptible to this process. It becomes soluble under extremely acidic conditions and the original structure is destroyed. Oxygen often attacks the iron-rich cements that bind sand grains together in sand stone
28
Carbonation
Rainwater combines with dissolved carbon dioxide from the atmosphere to produce a weak carbonic acid. This reacts with calcium carbonate in rocks such as limestone to produce calcium bicarbonate, which is soluble. This processes is reversible and precipitation f calcite happens during evaporation of calcium rich water in caves to form stalactites and stalagmites
29
Solution
Some salts are soluble in water. Other minerals such as iron are only soluble in very acidic water, with a pH of about 3. Any process by which a mineral dissolves in water is known as solution, although mineral-specific processes, such as carbonation, can be identified.
30
Hydrolysis
This is a chemical reaction between rock minerals and water. Silicates combine with water, producing secondary minerals such as clays. Feldspar in granite reacts with hydrogen in water to produce kaolin (China clay)
31
Hydration
Water molecules added to rock minerals create new minerals of a larger volume. This happens when anhydrite takes up water to form gypsum. Hydration causes surface flaking un many rocks, partly because some minerals also expand by about 0.5% during the chemical change because they absorb water
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Processes of BIOLOGICAL weathering in coastal environments
- Tree roots - Organic acids
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Tree roots
- Tree roots grow into cracks or joints in rocks and exert outward pressure. This operates in a similar way and with similar effects to freeze-thaw. When trees topple, their roots can also exert leverage on rock and soil, bringing them to the surface and exposing them to further weathering - Burrowing animals have a similar effect. This may be particularly significant on cliff tops and cliff faces
34
Organic acids
Organic acids produced during decomposition of plant and animal litter cause soil water to become more acidic and react with some minerals in a process called chelation. Blue-green algae can have a weathering effect, producing a shiny film of iron and manganese oxides on rocks. On shore platforms, molluscs may secrete acids which produce small surface hollows in the rock.
35
Mass movement processes
These processes refer to the movement of material (regolith) down a slope. They are sub-aerial processes (above ground) and rely on slope angle, particle size, temperature and saturation.
36
Processes of mass movement in coastal environments
Process - Landslides Description - Cliffs made of softer rocks slip when lubricated by rainfall Process - Rockfalls Description - Rocks undercut by the sea or slopes affected by mechanical weathering Process - Mud flows Description - Heavy rain causes fine material to move downhill Process - Slumping Description - Where soft material overlies resistant material and excessive lubrication takes place Process - Soil creep Description - Very slow movement of soil particles downslope
37
Wave processes
Breaking waves can erode the coastline through a range of processes. Waves can also supply sediment to the system which is either deposited or transported
38
Processes of wave erosion in coastal environments
Process - Hydraulic action Description - Wave pounding - The force of water on the rocks Process - Pounding/ wave quarrying Description - Breaking wave exerts pressure on the rock, air is trapped in cracks in a cliff face, as the water pulls back air is released under pressure. The rock face is weakened over time Process - Abrasion Description - Sand, shingle and boulders picked up by the sea and hurled against the cliff Process - Attrition Description - The wearing down of rocks and pebbles as they rub against each other, making them smaller and round Process - Solution/ corrosion Description - Where fresh water mixes with salt water, acidity may increase and carbon-based rocks are broken down
39
Processes of transportation by waves in coastal environments
- Traction - Saltation - Suspension - Solution - Long shore drift
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Traction
Large boulders rolled along the seabed
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Saltation
Small stones bounced along the seabed
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Suspension
Very small particles carried in moving water
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Longshore drift
- Waves approach the shore at the angle of prevailing wind, swash moves materials up the beach in the same direction as the wave, backwash moves the material back down the steepest gradient - usually perpendicular to where is picked to where it is picked up by the next incoming wave
44
Deposition
Deposition occurs when velocity and/or volume of water decreases and energy is reduced. Deposition takes place in coastal environments when: - Sediment accumulation exceeds removal - Waves slow after breaking - Backwash water percolates into beach material - There is a sheltered area such as an estuary
45
Fluvial processes
- Water in a river system interacts with its environment, shaping landscapes and transporting materials - These are significant in estuarine environments. Fluvial erosion, weathering and mass movement processes supply sediment to river channels. This is then transported downstream and deposited as rivers enter the sea - Mudflats and saltmarshes are landforms that are form in sheltered low-energy coastlines. They are associated with large tidal ranged where powerful currents transport large quantities of fine sediment
46
Aeolian processes
- Erosion, transport and deposition by the wind - Coastal landscapes are significantly influenced by winds. Wind picks up sand particles and moves them, a processes known as deflation. Attrition on land by windblown particles is also effective over long distances. When the wind speed falls, material carried by the wind will be deposited
47
Headlands and bays (The formation of distinctive EROSION landforms)
Headlands and bays are formed where there are bands of different rock with different resistant's to erosion. - Where these bands of rock lie perpendicular to the coastline, the weaker rock erodes more quickly, forming a bay, and the hard rock is left as a headland. This is a DISCORDANT coastline - Where the bands of rock lie parallel to the coastline, the hard rock lies on the seaward side of the coastline and coves develop when a weakness is eroded landwards. This is a CONCORDANT coastline
48
Cliffs and shore platforms (The formation of distinctive EROSION landforms)
The processes of cliffs and wave cut platforms: 1. High waves concentrate erosion at the base of the cliff 2. The cliff is undercut forming a wave cut notch 3. Overtime the undercut cliff collapses and the cliff face retreats 4. A gently sloping forefront to the cliff is left - a wave-cut platform 5. The wave cut platform is cut into by abrasion and also eroded by hydraulic and chemical action. When exposed it will be weathered by sub-aerial processes 6. Overtime wave break further out to sea, wave energy dissipates and erosion is reduced.
49
Geos and blowholes (The formation of distinctive EROSION landforms)
Geos are narrow steep sided inlets formed on a coastline where there is a weakness (joint or fault) in the rock which is exposed by erosion possesses such as hydraulic action. If geos become enlarged by continual erosion and the roof collapses and they become a blowhole, appearing as a vertical shaft the reaches the cliff top
50
Caves, arches, stacks and stumps (The formation of distinctive EROSION landforms)
The formation of a cave, arch, stack and stump: 1. Weaknesses such as a joint or fault in resistant rock are attacked by waves 2. Erosion (hydraulic action, abrasion, wave quarrying) widens the weakness and undercuts the base to form a cave 3. Erosion processes concentrate on the headland. Often a cave meets another cave and a hole through the headland is opened up to form an arch 4. As the cliff face recedes a wave cut platform develops. The arch will eventually collapse leaving an isolated stack 5. The sea attacks the base of the stack. Eventually a wave cut notch will undercut the stack and a raised portion of the wave-cut platform will be left as a stump
51
Beaches, spits, tombolo's, onshore and offshore bars ((The formation of distinctive DEPOSITIONAL landforms)
- Swash-aligned coastlines develop where there is minimal longshore drift, the coastline is irregular and waves hit headlands - Drift aligned coastlines are parallel to the direction of longshore drift, waves at an angle to the beach 1. Longshore drift carries material (e.g. W to E) 2. Where the coastline changes to N/S alignment there is a build up of sand and shingle 3. Material builds eastwards to form a spit 4. Refraction carries material into sheltered water and second-most dominant wind adds to curvature of the spit 5. On the sheltered area between land and sea the low energy leads to deposits of silt and clay and a salt marsh develops 6. A spit that joins an island to a mainland is a tombolo. If a spit develops across a bay and there is no strong flow of water from the landward side, a bar is formed 7. Formed by the accumulation of sand and shingle deposited between high and low tides. Features: Storm beach, berms, cusps, ripples, breached ridges
52
Beaches (The formation of distinctive DEPOSITIONAL landforms)
- Beaches are the most common depositional landform. Material consists of sand or shingle (a mix of pebbles and cobbles) from source such as cliff erosion, rivers and the sea bed - Beaches are dynamic landforms and the profile will change over time according to wind strength. An equilibrium profile develops with a balance between erosion and deposition.
53
Formation of a spit and tombolo
- A spit is formed by LSD deposits sediment after a change in the dominant wind direction which causes a formation of a long thin strip of deposited material past the end of the beach - The once the energy of the secondary wind slows down then it may form a recurved hook - This is the same processes as a tombola however it joins onto an island at the end
54
Salt marshes
Form a flat landscape low-lying estuarine areas. They form over time in three distinct stages each showing a specific ecology Stage 1: Description - Pioneer species develop (halophytes - salt tolerance) Ecology - Glasswort, cord grass. These plants slow the movement of water and encourage sedimentation. Their roots stabilise mud Stage 2: Description - Soil develops, lower salinity, current slows, more deposition, organic matter produced. The marsh increases in height. Biodiversity and plant cover increases Ecology - Sea aster, sea lavender and marsh grass Stage 3: Description - Mud level rises, land rises above sea level, rushes and reeds grow. Salinity levels fall and soil develops Ecology - Climax vegetation: ash, alder and oak
55
High and low energy coastlines
Energy inputs: - Wind - Wave - Current - Tides High energy coastlines: - Predominantly strong wave power - High waves - Strong prevailing winds - Long length of fetch - Erosion greater than deposition - Landforms: Wave cut platforms Low energy coastlines: - Low wave energy - Waves spread out, energy is dissipated - Low waves - Deposition greater than erosion - Low tidal range - Landforms: Beaches and spits
56
Eustatic change
It is a global change in the volume of sea water resulting from a rise or fall in the level of the sea itself, e.g. caused by the retreat of ice following a glacial period. Eustatic changes are influenced by variations in mean global temperatures
57
Isostatic change
Is a local change in sea level resulting from the land rising or falling relative to the sea e.g. tectonic movement
58
Climate change and sea level fall
- Climate change can lead to a sea level fall - Fall in global temps --> more precipitation in the form of snow --> snow turns into ice --> more water stored on the land as solid ice rather than liquid water, which is returned to the oceans - Cold water has a lower volume
59
The influences of sea level fall on geomorphic processes and land forms
- Land forms shaped by wave processes when the sea level was higher are exposed when sea levels fall. They may be found inland from present coastlines. Such as landforms include raised beaches, marine terraces and abandoned cliffs. Raised beaches and abandoned cliffs - Beaches and cliff lines elevated above sea level and exposed following deglaciation and the unloading of ice sheets. Marine terraces - Where an expanse of gently sloping formerly submerged land has been exposed by uplift of the lowering of sea levels
60
Modifications by present and future climate sea level change
- As they are now exposed and above the waterline, these landforms are now effected by weathering and mass movement processes e.g. Freeze thaw - In post glacial periods when the climate is wetter and warmer, vegetation develops. Warming is predicted in the future and this could lead to chemical and biological weathering becoming more influential - If the rise in temperature is enough for sea level to rise, these emergent features may then become closer to the coastline and wave processes will again be an influential factor
61
Climate change and sea level rise
Climate change can lead to a sea level rise: - Warmer water has more volume - Rise in global temperatures --> Melting of ice stores on the land --> increase in the volume of water in the oceans --> sea level rise - The 1.1°C rise in mean global temperature since pre-industrial times has resulted in a mean sea level rise of 15-25cm since 1901
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The influences of sea level rise on geomorphic processes and land forms
The main influences of a rise in sea level is the submergence of features such as river valleys - rias , and glacial valleys - Fjords. Shingle beaches also appear where former coastal sediment is pushed onshore by wave action Shingle beaches - This is where river sediment previously deposited on the continental shelf were above sea level. Rising sea levels over the past 20,000 years have swept up the sediment and deposited it on present day coasts Estuaries - Drowned, shallow, lowland river valleys Rias - Drowned, incised river valleys on upland coasts Fjords - Drowned glacial troughs
63
Modifications by present and future climate and sea level change
- Rias and fjords can be modified by wave processes. The height and intensity of the waves will increase if there are more storm conditions as a result of future climate change - The valley sides will be modified by sub aerial weathering processes e.g. mechanical weathering - Shingle beaches will be modified by processes that transport sediment such as long shore drift
64
What is a rias
- Rias are river valleys that have been flooded by the rise in sea level - As rias were river valleys they tend to have gently sloping sides. The rivers paleo-course and floodplain are submerged by the sea providing a relatively shallow cross section and a uniform long section - Usually they have irregular winding course that follows the course of the original river and its tributaries
65
What is a Fjord
- Fjords are glacial U-shaped valleys that have been flooded by a rise in sea level - In areas where glaciation carved out deep U-shaped valleys relatively near to the coast, rising sea level forms fjords - Fjords are much deeper and narrower than rias and can extend back inland for a hundred miles or more - In cross section the flooded U-shape valley can be clearly seen. In long section the fjord in often shallower nearest the sea as glacial erosion was weakest here as the ice was thinnest
66
What are shingle beaches
- During the Devensian glacial period when the sea level was much lower, fluvial sediment built up in these paleo-coastal areas. This was joined by glacial sediment when the ice melted that was deposited in large quantities in outwash plains - As the sea level started to rise from 25,000 years BP this sediment was pushed onshore by wave action - In the UK during the Flandrian Transgression, large quantities of sediment where moved around Abbotsbury and Portland in Dorset forming chesil Beach - Shingle beaches are likely to be damaged by erosion due to increase waring of the climate. This is because sea level will rise further and there will be and increase in storm frequency. Both factors will increase the magnitude of marine erosion