Coasts Flashcards

(68 cards)

1
Q

Littoral Zone

A

Coastal area affected by waves

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2
Q

Parts of the Littoral Zone

A

Coast
Backshore
Foreshore
Nearshore
Offshore

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3
Q

Backshore

A
  • Area above high tide
  • Affected by extreme weather events
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4
Q

Foreshore

A

Zone between high and low tide

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5
Q

Nearshore

A

Beyond low tide , consisting of shallow seawater

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6
Q

Coast

A

Land affected by sea e.g settlement + farmland

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7
Q

Offshore

A

Open sea where waves start to break

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8
Q

The littoral zone is an area of ———— —————-.

A

Dynamic Equilibrium
Terrestrial + Marine parts of coasts constantly undergoing short-term change

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9
Q

Long term changes creates coastlines that are :

A
  • emerging / submerging ( sea level )
  • rocky / estuarine ( geological resistance to weathering / erosion )
  • concordant / discordant ( relative position of geological strata + wave strata)
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10
Q

Short term changes creates coastlines that are :

A
  • Classified by tidal range
  • retreating / advancing depending on erosion / deposition
  • high / low energy
  • dominated by land-based or marine-based processes
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11
Q

Microtidal

A

<2

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12
Q

Mesotidal

A

2-4

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13
Q

Macrotidal

A

> 4

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14
Q

High energy coasts

A
  • destructive
  • strong winds + long fetches + steeply shelving offshore zones
  • high erosion
  • rocky + rocky land formed
  • clear distinction between land + sea
  • Marine + subaerial cliff profile
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15
Q

Marine Cliff Profiles

A

High erosion = Steep
Little vegetation
Waves undercut cliff washing away debris

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16
Q

Sub-aerial cliff profiles

A

High weathering
Less steep
Weathered material at base

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17
Q

Low energy coasts

A
  • constructive waves
  • gentle winds + short fetch + sheltered + gentle sloping offshore zones
  • sandy beaches
  • gentle relief + low elevation
  • high deposition + accretion
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18
Q

How are waves formed

A

Wind blows over surface of sea
Friction between wind + sea gives circular motion
Results in ripples
Over time form waves

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19
Q

Wave height depends on :

A

Fetch
Wind speed
Depth of seabed

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20
Q

Destructive Waves

A
  • high + steep
  • circular cross profile
  • short length
  • high frequency (10-14/min)
  • strong backwash + weak swash
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21
Q

Constructive Waves

A
  • low frequent (6-8/min)
  • low + long wave length = elliptical cross profile
  • powerful swash = deposition
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22
Q

Short-term changes of waves

A
  • storm = destructive
  • wind levels
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23
Q

Long-term changes of waves

A
  • seasonal : winter = steeper in back , summer = taller in back
  • climate change
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24
Q

Sediment cells

A
  • length of coastlines which act as self contained units in the movement of sediment
  • 11 in Wales + England
  • sediment doesn’t move between cells
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25
Sediment cells : Transfers
- LSD - Offshore currents move sediment to sea - wind - tidal currents
26
Sediment cells : Sinks
- salt marsh flocculations - spits + bar formation - sand dunes - offshore bars
27
Sediment cells : Sources
- rivers carry eroded sediment - erosion of cliff - crushed organisms shell accumulation - movement from offshore deposits - sand dunes erosion
28
Positive Sediment Budget
More sediment enters an area Beaches / sand dunes / spits GROW
29
Negative Sediment Budget
Less sediment enters an area Beaches / sand dunes / spits SHRINK
30
Sediment cells are in ———- —————-
Dynamic Equilibrium
31
Negative feedback in a Sediment Cell
Waves erode beach Cliffs exposed to waves Waves erode cliff Material deposited by erosion Material used to build up beach
32
Positive feedback in a Sediment Cell
Beach forms Friction causes waves to slow down Sediment deposited Beach grows Even larger waves slow down + deposit Beach grows
33
Example of a High Energy Coast
Cornwall
34
Example of a Low Energy Coast
Northumberland
35
Sediment Cell Example
- Portland Bay to Selsey Bill (5) - South Coast UK - Strong Westerly Prevailing wind = erosion - eroded material moved from Isle of Purbeck to Poole Bay > accumulates > forms spit e.g Hurst Castle / Hengistbury Head - Minor Currents from Southampton Estaury stop Hurst Spit connenting to Isle of White - Calm waters in NE = accretion
36
Discordant Coastlines
- bands of alternating hard / soft rock are perpendicular to the shoreline - forms headlands + bays
37
The shape of the bay ————— wave energy
Disspates
38
Concordant Coastlines
- bands of rock running parallel to coastlines - forms coves
39
Dalmatian Coastlines
- valleys (formed by tectonic folding) lie parallel to coastlines - increase in sea level forms Dalmatian coastlines - anticlines / sync lines formed - valleys flood , leaving islands parallel to coastline
40
Haff Coastlines
Deposits of sand run parallel to to coastline on top offshore bars Lagoons forms between bars
41
Example of a Dalmatian Coastline
Croatia
42
Hard Resistant rock
Granite Basalt
43
Soft , less resistant rock
Clay
44
Strata Dip horizontally
Waves erode softer rocks Creates notches Wave cut notch = big Causes rock above it to fall Wave cut notch platform
45
Strata Dip away from sea
No undercutting Stable cliff
46
Strata Dip towards sea
Waves undercut resistant rock Undercutting Rockfall
47
Steep Strata Dip
Large slabs of rock slide off cliff face
48
Glamorgan Heritage Coast
Glamorgan Heritage Coast : - 14miles - High energy - Bristol Channel funnels destructive waves - discordant coastline - high cliffs + sedimentary rock e.g Carboniferous limestone + shale + mudstone - Headlands e.g Witches Point / Nash Point - Sandy Bays e.g Dunraven - Wave cut platform at Nash point of Limestone as sea eroded soft shal - South = site of special scientific interest
49
Coastal Recession depends on
- Bedrock Lithology - Lithological Structure
50
Bedrock lithology
- Igneous = highly resistant e.g Basalt = most common , erodes 1-5mm/y - Metamorphic e.g slate , erodes 1mm-10cm/y - Sedimentary = limited resistance e.g Limestone , erodes 2-6cm/y
51
Lithological Structure
- Rock Strata - permeability e.g water in permeable rock exits pressure (pore water pressure) = weakens rock structure + enlarges cracks - Rock reactivity
52
Types of Weathering
- Mechanical - Chemical - Biological
53
Mechanical Weathering
- Breakdown of rock material without changing chemical composition E.g Freeze-thaw weathering , saline water + salt weathering , clay expanding when it gets wet
54
Chemical Weathering
- Breakdown of rock by changing its chemical composition E.g carbonation , oxidation
55
Biological Weathering
- weathering through actions of plant + animals E.g organisms using rock fractures for burrowing = break off rock , seeds grow
56
Types of Mass Movement
- Landslides - Rotational Slumping - Block Fall
57
Landslides
- movement of material in a straight line down a slope - steep sloped after storm conditions - landslide scar left behind
58
Rotational Slumping
- Material slides down slope at an angle - water creates slip plan , causing permeable rock on top of impermeable rock to overcome friction + slide down
59
Blockfall
- Movement of broke blocks of material downslope - material at bottom = talus
60
Coastal Landforms from mass movement
- talus scree slope - terraced cliff profile (multiple rotational slumpint) - rotational scar (bare faced cliff )
61
Erosive processes
- Hydraulic action - Abrasion - Attrition - Corrosion
62
————— can create formations from headlands
Wave Refraction
63
Factors Influencing rate of erosion
- wave type - wave size - lithology
64
Factors influencing rate of recession
- neap / spring tides - wind direction e.g SW winds = stronger as 6.5k fetch - high pressure / low pressure weather systems / climate change
65
Human actions influencing coastal recession
- building a dam interferes with natural movement of sediment = more erosion further along coastline as less sediment - coastal defence / ground affects further down coasts - dredging from offshore bars / beaches for building / deepen shipping lanes for larger ships = bad as more recession
66
Nile Delts
- home to 50% Egypt population - 22,000km^2 before Nile enters Mediterranean sea - Alexandria , 5.2m population city near river - under threat from rising sea level = more seawater flooding = more salt deposits = less land fertility - freshwater polluted with salt water = less fish = fishing industry under threat - 1970 Aswan Dam reduced sediment transportation from 9.5m tonnes , holds back 98% of sediment in Lake Nassar - Delta retreating 140m/y in some places
67
Economic losses of coastal recession
- coastal town = less investment from govt + priv firms as high risk - loss of land e.g 23k farmland / high prices residential land - selling coastal property = difficult + high insurance thus residents abandon homes
68
Economic losses of coastal recession
- ppl relocate = depopulation = breaking up communities - area’s amenity value decreases + visually unattractive as cliffs collapse - people left behind - spiral of decline - debris can injure people