Coasts Flashcards
(68 cards)
Littoral Zone
Coastal area affected by waves
Parts of the Littoral Zone
Coast
Backshore
Foreshore
Nearshore
Offshore
Backshore
- Area above high tide
- Affected by extreme weather events
Foreshore
Zone between high and low tide
Nearshore
Beyond low tide , consisting of shallow seawater
Coast
Land affected by sea e.g settlement + farmland
Offshore
Open sea where waves start to break
The littoral zone is an area of ———— —————-.
Dynamic Equilibrium
Terrestrial + Marine parts of coasts constantly undergoing short-term change
Long term changes creates coastlines that are :
- emerging / submerging ( sea level )
- rocky / estuarine ( geological resistance to weathering / erosion )
- concordant / discordant ( relative position of geological strata + wave strata)
Short term changes creates coastlines that are :
- Classified by tidal range
- retreating / advancing depending on erosion / deposition
- high / low energy
- dominated by land-based or marine-based processes
Microtidal
<2
Mesotidal
2-4
Macrotidal
> 4
High energy coasts
- destructive
- strong winds + long fetches + steeply shelving offshore zones
- high erosion
- rocky + rocky land formed
- clear distinction between land + sea
- Marine + subaerial cliff profile
Marine Cliff Profiles
High erosion = Steep
Little vegetation
Waves undercut cliff washing away debris
Sub-aerial cliff profiles
High weathering
Less steep
Weathered material at base
Low energy coasts
- constructive waves
- gentle winds + short fetch + sheltered + gentle sloping offshore zones
- sandy beaches
- gentle relief + low elevation
- high deposition + accretion
How are waves formed
Wind blows over surface of sea
Friction between wind + sea gives circular motion
Results in ripples
Over time form waves
Wave height depends on :
Fetch
Wind speed
Depth of seabed
Destructive Waves
- high + steep
- circular cross profile
- short length
- high frequency (10-14/min)
- strong backwash + weak swash
Constructive Waves
- low frequent (6-8/min)
- low + long wave length = elliptical cross profile
- powerful swash = deposition
Short-term changes of waves
- storm = destructive
- wind levels
Long-term changes of waves
- seasonal : winter = steeper in back , summer = taller in back
- climate change
Sediment cells
- length of coastlines which act as self contained units in the movement of sediment
- 11 in Wales + England
- sediment doesn’t move between cells