Coasts Flashcards

(67 cards)

1
Q

What is a system

A

A set of interrelated objects compromising of components (stores) and processes (links)

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2
Q

What are the main types of energy in coastal landscapes

A

Kinetic
Potential
Thermal

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3
Q

What are the components of an open system

A

Energy and matter can be transferred from neighbouring system as an input
Energy and matter can be transferred to neighbouring systems as an output

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4
Q

What are the inputs

A

Kinetic energy from wind and waves
Thermal energy from the heat of the sun
Potential energy from the position of material on slopes
Material from marine deposition, weathering, mass movement

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5
Q

What are the outputs

A

Marine and wind erosion from the beach and rock surfaces

Evaporation

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6
Q

What is a throughput

A

It consists of stores (beach, nearshore sediment) and flows (movement of sediment along a beach-LSD)

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7
Q

What is a sediment cell

A

Stretch of coastline and its associated nearshore area

Regard as a closed system but in reality it is unlikely that

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8
Q

How many sediment cells are in the UK and what are they defined by

A

11

Topography and shape of the coastline

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9
Q

What are the physical factors of a landscape

A
Wind
Waves
Tides
Geology
Currents
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10
Q

How do winds influence landscape

A

Winds drive Waves
Waves drive erosion and sediment transfer
The higher the wind speed and the longer the fetch, the larger the waves and more energy they possess

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11
Q

How do waves work

A

Potential energy above the wave crest

Kinetic energy is the motion of the water within the wave

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12
Q

Amount of energy in a wave formula

A

P=H2T
P = power is kilowatts per metre of wave front
H = wave height in metres
T = time interval between wave crests in second (wave period)
the relationship between wave height and wave energy is non-linear

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13
Q

Compare swell waves and storm waves

A

Swell waves-Long wavelength, wave period of up to 20 seconds

Storm waves-Short wavelength, greater height, shorter wave period

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14
Q

How do waves break

A

When waves moves in to shallow water (half its wavelength) there is friction between water and seafloor
wave slows down
wavelength decreases
wave steepens

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15
Q

What is swash

A

Movement of water up the beach in the same direction as waves travelling up the beach

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16
Q

What is backwash

A

Movement of water back down the beach by gravity perpendicular to the coastline down the steepest gradient

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17
Q

What are constructive waves

A

Low height, long wavelength, low frequency
Spiling waves
Strong swash
Swash is greater than backwash

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18
Q

Destructive waves

A

Greater height, shorter wavelength and higher frequency
Plunging waves
Swash of the next wave is slowed due to returning backwash
Swash is less than backwash

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19
Q

Beach gradient and wave type

A

High-energy waves (often winter months)tend to remove sediment reducing the gradient
Low-energy waves (often summer month) tend to build up the beach face, steepening the profile
Waves steepness is an important factor in this relationship

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20
Q

How are tides formed

A

Formed by the gravitational pull of the moon

Spring tides and neap tides occur twice a lunar month

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21
Q

Geology - Lithology

A

Clays - weak lithology
Basalt - resistant to erosion
Chalk - vulnerable to carbonation

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22
Q

What does jointing, bedding and faulting all affect

A

Permeability and porosity

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23
Q

Why is the angle of dip important for cliffs

A

Landward - dipping strata support cliffs within steep vertical profiles
Seaward - dipping strata support cliffs with profiles which follow the bedding plane

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24
Q

What are rip-currents

A

Caused by tidal motion or by waves breaking at right angle to the shore
Creates cusps - channelling the rip current through a narrow neck

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25
What are terrestrial forms of sediment
Rivers are a major source of sediment inout to the coastal sediment budget
26
What is the origin of terrestrial sediment
Erosion carried out by water ice wind
27
Origin of terrestrial sediments - weathering
Decay and disintegration of rock in situ Mechanical weathering- freeze-thaw, salt crystallisation, wetting and drying Biological - root action Chemical weathering - carbonation
28
Origin of terrestrial sediments - Mass movement
``` Soil creep Earth flow Landslides mudflows Slumps Rockfalls Run-off ```
29
Sediment form offshore
Constructive waves, tides and currents bring sediment to the shore from offshore Wind can blow sand from other locations
30
Sediment from humans
When a coastal budget is in deficit, beach nourishment is one way a sediment equilibrium can be maintained
31
Erosion
Abrasion - when waves armed with rock particles scour the coastline Attrition - when rock particles collide with each other during transportation Hydraulic action - when waves brake against a cliff face, air and water are forced into crevices. when the wave recedes the pressure is released leading to expansion of the air Pounding - the mass of the braking wave exerts pressure on the rock causing it to weaken Solution - dissolving minerals like magnesium carbonate minerals in coastal rock
32
Transportation
Solution - minerals which have been dissolved into the mass of moving water Suspension - small particles of sand, silt and clay can be carried by currents Saltation - series of irregular movements of material which is too heavy to be carried continuously by suspension Traction - the largest particles are pushed along the sea floor
33
Deposition in coastal systems
Where the rate of sediment accumulation exceeds the rate of removal When waves slow down immediately after braking At the top of swash During the backwash where water percolates in to the beach material in low-energy environment
34
Cliffs and shore platforms
When destructive waves break repeatedly on relative steeply sloping coastlines Undercutting occurs between HWM and LWM Forming a wave cut notch Continued undercutting weakens support of the rock strata above This eventually collapses Producing a step profile and a cliff Cliff retreated parallel to the coast
35
Shore platforms
Often deeply directed by abrasion our to the large amount of rock debris that is dragged across the surface Reach a maximum length of 500M
36
What is a Disconcordant coastline
Form due to the bands of rock with differing resistance to erosion These bands of rocks will be perpendicular to the coastline The width of the bay is determined by the width of the weaker rock
37
What is a concordant coastline
Rocks are lying parallel to the coastline
38
What is wave refraction
The waves is slowed down by the shallow water of the headland The waves in the bay speed up as they are not slowed down Waves refract around the headland
39
What is a geo and blowhole
Geo are narrow steep-sided inlets, weak points are eroded more rapidly by hydraulic action, they form a tunnel like cave running at right angles to the cliff line Blowhole is when part of the roof of a tunnel like cave collapses and forms a vertical shaft that reaches the cliff top
40
Caves, arches, stacks and stumps
Cracks at the base of a headland become exposed through hydraulic action, the crack widens, other processes such as salt crystallisation widen it eventually becoming a wave cut notch, more weathering becomes a cave, as a result of wave refraction the waves concentrate their energy on the sides, a hole all the way through is eventually made forming an arch, over time this becomes unstable and collapses under its own weight and forms a stack, eventually due to further weathering the stack collapses forming an arch
41
What is a sand beach
``` Less than 5 degrees Small particles means it becomes compact when wet Little percolation during backwash Little energy lost to friction material is carried back down the beach Forming ridges and runnels ```
42
What is a shingle beach
Mix of pebbles and small to medium cobbles | Steeper beaches due to swash greater than backwash
43
What is a storm beach
At the back of the beach, Very strong swash during storm conditions may deposit larger material, forming a storm beach or a ridge
44
what is a berm
Small ridges that develop at the position of the mean high tide mark resulting from deposition at the top of the swash
45
What is a beach cusp
Cusps are semi-circular depressions, they are smaller and more temporary features by a collection of waves reaching the same point
46
Seasonal changes to the beach profile
High - energy destructive waves remove sediment offshore and create flatter beaches (summer) winter is the opposite
47
What is a spit
Long narrow beaches of sand or shingle that are attached to the land at one end and extend across a bay, estuary or indentation on a coastline Form as a result of LSD The end of the spit becomes recurved Behind the spit deposition will occur as wave energy is reduced Silt and mud are deposited Eventually salt tolerant plants colonise Slat marsh develops
48
What is an onshore bar
Develop when a spit develops across and indentation until it joins into the land at the other end forming a brackish lagoon on the landward side
49
What is a tombolo
Beaches which connect the mainland to an offshore bar | Spit continued the grow seaward to join the mainland to an island
50
Salt marsh
Feature of low - energy environments, vegetated areas of silt and clay Vegetation helps stabilise the sediment The higher the marsh becomes the les saline it is Flocculation is an important process Shallow gradient
51
Delta
large areas of sediment found at the mouth of rivers deposited by rivers and tidal action branching network of distributaries Overloaded with sediment, deposition in the channel occurs, this splits the channel and reduces the energy allowing further deposition, these channels are lined with levees
52
Cuspate delta
Appointed extension of coastline
53
Arcuate delta
Sufficient sediment supply is available for the delta to grow seawards
54
birds foot delta
Distributaries build out from the coast in a branching pattern River sediment supply exceeding the rates of removal by waves and currents
55
What is eustatic change
Changes in volume of water in the global ocean stores
56
What is isostatic changes
Local | relative sea level changes
57
Isostatic changes in britain
Changes in the land Scotland is rebounding SE coast is sinking Relative changes to the sea level Scotland - sea level fall SE coast - sea level is rising
58
Physical factors that can affect changes in global temperatures
Milankovitch cycles Solar output Atmosphere composition
59
Climate change and sea level
A decrease in global temperature leads to more precipitation falling in the form of snow Eventually this snow turns to ice and so water is stored on land As a result, there is a reduction in the amount of water in the ocean and a worldwide fall in sea level
60
Riss glacial period
108000 years ago 7 degrees cooler than today Sea level was about 83 m lower than the present day
61
Wurm glacial period
25000 years ago 9 degrees cooler than today sea level was 90m lowwer
62
Emergent landforms
Landforms are shaped by wave processes during times of high sea level These become exposed when sea level falls These features are often found well inland, some distance from the present coastline
63
Raised beaches
Are areas of former shore platforms that were left at a higher level than the present sea level they are often found a distance inland rom the present coastline
64
modification on landforms
After they emerged they are no longer affected by wave action the continued to be altered by mass movement and weathering
65
Rias
Submerged river valleys The lowest part of the river course and the floodplains may be completely drowned The sides of the valleys and the middle and upper parts of the rivers course may still be exposed
66
Formation of Rias
Typically underlain with alluvial deposits These were buried in channels that were eroded by rivers the flowed down to the lowest sea levels during the Pleistocene glacial periods During the interglacial periods, when sea level rose further deposition would have occurred as the rivers has less surplus energy for erosion The river valleys then became infilled during the Flandrain Transgression
67
Fjord
Submerged glacial valleys | They have steep cliff - like, valley sides and he water is uniformly deep - reaching over 1000 m