Coasts Flashcards
(42 cards)
Define ‘Littoral Zone’
Wider coastal zone - includes coastal land and shallow parts of sea
What are the five sections of the Littoral Zone?
Coast > Backshore > Foreshore > Nearshore > Offshore
Differentiate between Emergent and Submergent coasts
Emergent - Coasts rising relative to sea level
Submergent - Sea level is higher than coast, flooding occurring
Define low energy and high energy coasts
Low energy - Sheltered, limited wave fetch, low wind speeds mean smaller waves
High energy - Exposed, high winds, longer fetch, bigger waves
Differentiate between Discordant and Concordant Coastlines
Discordant - Differing rock types, running at a 90 degree angle to the coast, create uneven coastline, less resistant rock eroded to form bays, more resistant rock remains as headlands
Concordant - Different rock strata run parallel to the coast, vary in terms of resistance
What is a cliff profile and what 2 things influence it most?
Cliff Profile - Height & angle of a cliff face, plus other features, e.g. wave cut notches
Influenced by resistance to erosion of its rock type(s) and the dip (angle) of the rock in relation to the coastline
Describe 3 different kind of dips, and their effect on the cliff profile
Horizontal Dip - Vertical profile, notches reflect less resistant strata
Seaward dip high angle - Sloping towards sea, one rock layer facing the sea, vulnerable to rock slides down the slope
Seaward dip low angle - Profile may exceed 90 degrees, areas of overhanging rock, very vulnerable to rock falls
What is the other major factor that affects cliff profiles?
Permeability of the rock strata - More permeable rock means groundwater infiltration, creating weaknesses
What are the three rock types that influence coastal recession?
1) Igneous - Very slow erosion rate, crystalline rock, limited weaknesses that erosion can exploit
2) Metamorphic - Slow erosion rate, also crystalline however often folded and heavily fractured, forming weaknesses
3) Sedimentary - Moderate/Fast rate, geologically young rocks (weaker)
How can permeability of rock strata affect erosion rates?
If the rock is permeable groundwater can weaken it by removing binding cement. Can also create pore water pressure (internal) within the cliff, affects stability
How does coastal vegetation protect against recession?
Roots bind sediment particles together, makes them harder to erode
Submerged plants form a protective layer, ensure sediment is not directly exposed to water/erosion
Define ‘Plant Succession’
The changing structure of a plant community over time, as
areas of bare sediment are colonised
What are the factors affecting wave size?
Strength of the wind
Water Depth
Wave fetch (the distance waves have to grow in size)
Differentiate between Constructive and Destructive waves
Constructive - Strong swash (flow of water up beach), sediment pushed up the beach
Destructive - Strong Backwash (water draining down the beach into the sea), sediment eroded & deposited offshore
Why do wave types frequently vary?
Storms bring destructive waves, subside over the day and become constructive
Seasonal changes - Summer (constructive) vs Destructive (destructive)
Changes to climate - e.g. global warming bringing more storm seasons
What are the four main processes that cause erosion?
Hydraulic Action - Waves compress air trapped within rocks, internal pressure forces cracks open, dislodges rocks from the cliff face
Abrasion - Sediment picked up by waves, thrown against cliff face, chiselling away at the surface
Attrition - Sediment slowly chipped away at/ made smaller over time, as it is transported around
Corrosion - Carbonate (limestone) rocks are vulnerable to solution by rainwater, seawater etc.
Name four erosional coastal landforms
Cave, Arch, Stack, Stump
How does a wave cut notch affect recession rates?
As notch becomes deeper, overhanging rock becomes unstable, leads to rock falls. Repetition of this process causes cliffs to recede inland
What is longshore Drift, and what is it a key source for?
Longshore Drift - The net transportation of sediment along a beach, as a result of swash and backwash
Key source of a sediment for depositional landforms
What are some of the way sediment is deposited?
‘Gravity Settling’ - Energy of transporting water becomes too low to move sediment, bigger sediment deposited first, followed by smaller sediment
‘Flocculation’ - Small sediment particles in water, e.g. clay, clump together & become big enough to sink
Give 3 examples of Depositional Landforms
Spit - Sand extending beyond a turn of coastline, longshore drift spreads out & loses energy, leading to deposition
Bay-head Beach - Waves break at the shoreline, move sediment to a bay, where a beach forms
Tombolo - Sand/Shingle bar linking coastline to an offshore island
Define the Subaerial processes of Weathering and Mass Movement
Weathering - The breakdown of rocks by chemical, mechanical or biological agents
Mass movement - Refers to the downslope movement of rock and soil
Differentiate between mechanical, chemical and biological weathering
Mechanical - Breaks down rocks with physical force, no chemical change
Chemical - involves a chemical reaction & the generation of a new chemical compounds
Biological - Often speeds up mechanical/chemical weathering through action of plants etc.
Give one example of Mechanical, Chemical and Biological weathering, respectively
Mechanical - Freeze Thaw, water expands as it freezes forcing existing cracks/fissures open, loosens rocks
Chemical - Carbonation, Slow dissolution of limestone due to rainfall
Biological - Plant roots, tree/plant roots grow in cracks/fissures, force rocks apart