Coasts

Question 1

How are waves formed?

Answer 1

Waves are forms by wind blowing over the surface of the water/sea this exerts a drag/friction creating a swell in the water. The energy of the wind causes the water particles to vibrate as the wind passes over.

Question 2

Draw the formation of the wave

Answer 2

4 waves getting longer with a rotating arrow in the middle of each getting more oval/longer each time. These should be labelled 1, 2, 7, 9. At the top of the 7 wave there is an 8. There should be a diagonal line going from the corner over one to in front of nine. An arrow going down saying 4 and an arrow going up saying 6. The diagonal line - nearer 1 should be called 3 and the space under the line 5

Question 3

What is 1 representing

Answer 3

The circular orbit in open water

Question 4

What is 2 representing

Answer 4

The wave becoming more elliptical -oval- in movement

Question 5

What is 3 representing

Answer 5

Friction slows down the base of the wave

Question 6

What is 4 representing

Answer 6

Water from the previous wave returns as backwash

Question 7

What is 5 representing

Answer 7

Shelving sea bed (beach)

Question 8

What is 6 representing

Answer 8

Water rises up the beach as swash

Question 9

What is 7 representing

Answer 9

An increasing elliptical orbit

Question 10

What is 8 representing

Answer 10

The top of the wave moves faster

Question 11

What is 9 representing

Answer 11

The wave beginning to break

Question 12

What does wave energy depend on

Answer 12

The fetch, the strength of the wind, the length of time over which the wind has blown

Question 13

What is the fetch

Answer 13

How far a wave has traveled

Question 14

What is England’s prevailing wind

Answer 14

SW

Question 15

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to have a strong wash

Answer 15

Constructive

Question 16

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to have a strong back-wash

Answer 16

Destructive

Question 17

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to be tall

Answer 17

Destructive

Question 18

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to have a long wave length

Answer 18

Constructive

Question 19

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to occur in winter

Answer 19

Destructive

Question 20

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to be a steep wave

Answer 20

Destructive

Question 21

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to be powerful

Answer 21

Destructive

Question 22

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to build up the beach

Answer 22

Constructive

Question 23

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to be slow moving waves

Answer 23

Constructive

Question 24

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to be a longer time between each wave

Answer 24

Constructive

Question 26

What is hydraulic action

Answer 26

Waves smashing into the cliff makes air pockets in the cracks. These are pressurised and explode

Question 27

What is abrasion

Answer 27

This is when the stones in the sea are chucked at the cliff face by the sea and the cliff is worn away like sand paper

Question 28

What is attrition

Answer 28

This is when the rocks in the sea bang again each each other and become smooth

Question 29

Solution

Answer 29

This is when the sea dissolved the coast. Chalk and limestone are soluble so they are affected by solution

Question 30

What is the definition of marine erosion

Answer 30

Erosion is the breakdown and transport of materials

Question 30

Draw a diagram of longshore drift

Answer 30

The prevailing wind coming from the SW and arrow. A dotted line in the same direction. This should be 1. Then a line at right angles to the shore label 2. Repeat 3 times. At the top have an arrow running horizontally across the page going away from the first line and the wind. Called this the net movement of sediment (number 3)

Question 31

What does 1 represent (longshore drift)

Answer 31

The swash, with material in, traveling up the beach in the direction of the prevailing wind

Question 32

What does 2 represent (longshore drift)

Answer 32

Backwash returning to the sea under the influence of gravity, perpendicular to the shore.

Question 33

What does 3 represent (longshore drift)

Answer 33

The repeated zigzag motion of the sediment results in a net movement of materials down the beach. This is called longshore drift

Question 34

Why do you think that longshore drift would occur on some beaches and not on others.

Answer 34

If the bay was sheltered then there wouldn’t be a longshore drift, or if there was an off shore drift, or solid geology

Question 35

What are the presses of transportation

Answer 35

Traction Saltation Suspension Solution

Question 36

What is traction

Answer 36

Larger materials are rolled along the sea floor

Question 37

What is saltation

Answer 37

Smaller rocks and pebbles are bounced along the sea floor

Question 38

What is suspension

Answer 38

Small particles are carried within the flow of the water

Question 39

What is solution

Answer 39

Soluble minerals are dissolved within the water

Question 40

What is deposition?

Answer 40

When the sea dumps it’s load

Question 41

Why does deposition occur

Answer 41

When there are gentil waves with less energy. Or when they lose energy. If there was too much energy it will erode

Question 42

Where does it occur

Answer 42

Where there is shallow water or a sheltered environment

Question 43

What are the landforms of coastal erosion

Answer 43

``` Fault /lines of weakness Wave cut notch Sea cave Arch Stack Stump ```

Question 44

Line of weakness

Answer 44

A line of weakness is made bigger by hydronic action. Line of weakness is already there

Question 45

Wave cut notch

Answer 45

Created by hydronic action

Question 46

Sea cave

Answer 46

Created by hydronic action and then abrasion

Question 47

Arch

Answer 47

Created when a sea cave breaks though the rock by hydrolic action and abrasion

Question 48

Stack

Answer 48

When the top of the arch collapses

Question 49

Stump

Answer 49

The stack is eroded forming a stump

Question 50

What is a deposition landform?

Answer 50

When the sea loses energy it drops the material it has been carrying.

Question 51

Describe a situation when deposition landforms might be made.

Answer 51

Deposition happens when the swash is stronger than the backwash and is associated with constructive waves.

Question 52

Give 5 examples of when deposition is likely to occur

Answer 52

1. Waves enter an area of shallow water 2. Waves enter a sheltered area, e.g. a cave or a bay 3. There is little wind 4. There is a good supply of material in the water 5. There is a short fetch

Question 53

What is a constructive wave on a beach?

Answer 53

Swash stronger than backwash

Question 54

What is a destructive wave on a beach?

Answer 54

Backwash stronger than swash