Coasts Flashcards

(35 cards)

1
Q

Wavelength

A

The distance between two successive crests or troughs

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2
Q

Wave height

A

The distance between the trough and the crest

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3
Q

Wave frequency

A

The number of waves per minute

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4
Q

Velocity

A

The speed of a travelling wave - influence by wind, fetch and water depth

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5
Q

Fetch

A

The amount of open water over which a wave has passed

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6
Q

Swash

A

The movement of water up the beach

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7
Q

Backwash

A

The movement of water down the beach

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8
Q

What are the two different types of waves?

A

Constructive and destructive waves

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9
Q

What characterises constructive waves?

A

Sediment is transported landwards

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10
Q

What characterises destructive waves?

A

Sediment is dragged seawards

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11
Q

Longshore drift

A

Waves move up the beach in one direction, but the waves draining back down the beach take a different route; this action tends to transport materials along the beach

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12
Q

TYPES OF EROSION: Hydraulic action

A

Occurs as waves hit or break against a cliff face

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13
Q

TYPES OF EROSION: Abrasion

A

The process of breaking wave hurling materials, such as pebbles or shingle, against a cliff face

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14
Q

TYPES OF EROSION: Attrition

A

The process in which eroded material, such as broken rock, is worn down to form smaller, rounder beach material.

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15
Q

TYPES OF EROSION: Solution

A

Occurs on limestone and chalk. Calcium carbonate, a salt found in these rocks, dissolves slowly in acidic water.

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16
Q

What are a few features of erosion?

A
  • cliffs
  • caves
  • arches
  • stacks
  • stumps
  • wave cut platform
17
Q

Beach (the technical term ;-)

A

The term beach refers to the accumulation of material deposited between low spring tides and the highest point reached by storm waves at high spring tides.

18
Q

HWM

A

High water mark - the level reached by the sea at high tide.

19
Q

LWM

A

Low water mark - the level reached by the sea at low tide

20
Q

What are the three zones of a ‘typical beach’?

A
  • backshore
  • foreshore
  • offshore
21
Q

Backshore

A

Marked by a line of dunes or a cliff

22
Q

Foreshore

A

Exposed at low tide

23
Q

Offshore

A

Waves touch the sea bed, material is usually disturbed and sometimes pushed up as offshore bars

24
Q

Spit

A

A beach of sand or shingle linked at one end to land.

25
Tombolos
Ridges that link the mainland to an island
26
Succession
The growth of new plants
27
What are coral reefs?
Coral reefs are calcium carbonate structures, made up of reef-building stony corals
28
Fringing reefs
These are the reefs that fringe the coast of a landmass
29
Barrier reefs Example: the Great Barrier Reef
Occur at a greater distance from shore than fringing reefs and are typically separated from it by a deep, wide lagoon
30
Atoll reefs
Rise from submerged volcanic foundations
31
Mangroves
Mangroves are salt-tolerant forests of trees and shrubs that grow in the tidal estuaries and coastal zones of tropical areas
32
What has been named one of the most dangerous natural hazards to people and the environment?
Hurricanes (in Asia, also known as tropical cyclones)
33
What do hurricanes do?
Move excess heat from low latitudes to higher latitudes
34
FUN FACT ABOUT HURRICANES
The path of a hurricane is erratic, so it is not always possible to give more than 12 hours notice.
35
What is the lowest windspeed of a hurricane?
A storm is not classed as a hurricane unless it has a wind speed of over 118 km/hr