Coasts: Coastal Terminology, Land Forms And Processes Flashcards

(57 cards)

1
Q

What are ocean currents?

A

The movement of water from one location to another. They are driven by three main factors:
1. The rise and fall of tides
2. Wind
3. Thermohaline circulation

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2
Q

What are tides?

A

The periodic rise and fall in the level of the sea, caused by the gravitational pull of the sun and moon, although the moon has a much greater influence as it is closer

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3
Q

What is a spring tide?

A

As the moon orbit the Earth, the high tides follow it. Twice in a lunar month, when the moon, sun and earth are in a straight line, the tide raising force is strongest. This produces the highest tide range or spring tide.

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4
Q

What is a neap tide?

A

Twice a month, the moon and sun are positioned at 90° to each other in relation to the Earth. This alignment gives the lowest monthly tidal range, or neap tide.

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5
Q

What is the significance of the tides?

A
  • The movement of tides can generate ocean currents, the influence the direction and scale of coastal sediment movement
  • When high tides are combined with a low pressure system and extremely high storm surge can be generated that leads to flooding along coastal area
  • The regular movement of the tides can be used to generate renewable energy. For example, Swansea Bay in Wales is an area that utilises this energy to generate power
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6
Q

What is a storm surge?

A

The pushing of water against a coastline to abnormally high levels, usually a combination of extreme low pressure and high tides

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7
Q

What is ocean current?

A

The large scale movement of water in oceans

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8
Q

What is tidal range?

A

The vertical difference in height of sea level between high and low tide

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9
Q

What is a rip current?

A

A specific type of water current that can occur near beaches where waves break. A strong, localised and narrow current of water that moves directly away from the shore by cutting through the lines of breaking waves

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10
Q

Where does coastal sediment come from?

A
  • Streams/rivers flowing into the sea
  • Estuaries
  • Cliff erosion
  • Offshore sand banks
  • Material from biological origin
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11
Q

What is a sediment cell?

A

A distinct area of coastline separated from others by well-defined boundaries, such as headlands and deep stretches of water. Sediment cells can be regarded as closed systems from which nothing is gained or lost – but in reality, sediment can find its way into neighbouring cells. Sediment cells can vary in size with larger ones often being divided into smaller sections (sub-cells)

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12
Q

What is a coastal sediment budget?

A

The balance between sediment being added and removed from the coastal system, that system being defined with each individual sediment cell

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13
Q

What is accretion?

A

The process of gradually adding material to an object, increasing its size or mass

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14
Q

How is a positive budget formed?

A

More materials added to the sediment cell than is removed: the shoreline is built towards the sea

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15
Q

How is a negative budget formed?

A

More material is removed from the sediment cell than is added: the shoreline retreat landwards

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16
Q

What is weathering?

A

The disintegration and decomposition of rocks in situ.

There are three types: mechanical, chemical and biological

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17
Q

What is mechanical weathering?

A

The break-up of rocks without any chemical changes taking place e.g freeze-thaw, salt-crystallisation and wetting and drying

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18
Q

What is freeze-thaw weathering?

A

When water enters a crack, freezes, and expands by 10%, widening the crack

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19
Q

What is salt crystallisation?

A

Salt water evaporates, leaving salt crystals behind, causes stress in the rock and breakage + corrosion

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20
Q

What is wetting and drying?

A

Rocks rich in clay expand when they get wet and contract when they dry. This can cause them to crack and break up

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21
Q

What is chemical weathering?

A

Rock is broken down through chemical changes, most often acidic rain.

This can include: Carbonation, Oxidation, Solution, Hydrolysis

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22
Q

What is carbonation?

A

Rainwater absorbs carbon dioxide from the air to form a weak carbonic acid. This reacts with calcium carbonate in rocks, such as limestone and chalk, deform calcium bicarbonate which is easily dissolved. The cooler the temperature of the rainwater, the more carbon dioxide is absorbed.

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23
Q

What is oxidation?

A

The reaction of rock minerals with oxygen, for example iron, to form a rusty red powder leaving rocks more vulnerable to weathering

24
Q

What is solution?

A

The dissolving of rock minerals such as halide (rock salts)

25
What is hydrolysis?
When the acidic water reacts or combines with minerals in the rock to create plates and dissolvable salts. This itself degrade the rock, thus making it more susceptible to further degradation
26
What is biological weathering?
Where animals and plants wear rocks away. Thin plant roots grow into small cracks, water running through decayed vegetation becomes acidic, animals burrow into cliffs, marine organisms burrow or secrete acids
27
How do destructive waves erode the coastline?
1. Hydraulic power 2. Wave Quarrying 3. Abrasion 4. Attrition 5. Corrosion
28
What is hydraulic action?
The action of waves breaking against unconsolidated material such as sand and gravels. This can exert enormous pressure upon a rock surface thus weakening it. Sometimes referred to as wave pounding
29
What is wave quarrying?
The sheer force of the water as it crashes against a coastline is called wave quarrying. When a wave advances air can be trapped and compressed, when the waiver retreats the compressed air expands. This continuous process can weaken joints and cause cracks in the cliff and cause pieces of rock to break off
30
What is abrasion?
The material the sea has picked up also wears away rock faces. Sand shingle and boulders hold against the cliff line will do enormous damage. This is also apparent on inter-tidal rock platforms where sediment is drawn back and forth
31
What is attrition?
The rocks in the sea which carry out abrasion are slowly worn down into smaller and more rounded pieces
32
What is solution (tidal)
Include the dissolving of calcium based rocks: when seawater dissolves certain types of rock
33
What is lithology?
Refers to the characteristics of rocks, especially resistance to erosion and permeability. Very resistant rocks such as grit and to a lesser extent chalk tend to be eroded less than weak materials such as clay. Some rocks like limestone are well jointed which means that the sea can penetrate a long line of weakness, making them more vulnerable to erosion. Variation in the rates of which rocks were away is also known as differential erosion. The structure and variation of rocks also affects the coastline: concordant - parallel to the coastline, and discordant - running at right angles to the coastline
34
What is mass movement?
The downward movement or sliding of material under the influence of gravity. There are five types: rock Falls, landslides, mud flows, landslips (slumps) and soil creep
35
What is rockfall?
A rockfall involves the sudden collapse or breaking away of individual rock fragments (or a block of rock) at a cliff face. They are most commonly associated with steep or vertical cliffs in heavily jointed and often quite resistant rock. A rockfall is often triggered by mechanical weathering (particularly freeze-thaw) or an earthquake. Once broken away from the source, rocks fall or bounce down the slope to form scree (also known as talus) at the foot of the slope. Scree often forms a temporary store within the coastal system, with material gradually being removed and transported elsewhere by the sea. When this occurs the scree forms an input into the sediment cell.
36
What is a landslip/slum?
A landslip or slump differs from a landslide in that its slide surface is curved rather than flat. Landslips commonly occur in weak and unconsolidated clays and sands, often when permeable rock overlies impermeable rock, which causes a build-up of pore water pressure. Landslips or slumps are characterised by a sharp break of slope and the formation of a scar. Multiple landslips can result in a terraced appearance on the cliff face.
37
What is soil creep?
As the name implies, soil creep is an extremely slow form of movement of individual soil particles downhill. The precise mechanism of movement often involves particles rising towards the ground surface due to wetting or freezing and then returning vertically to the surface in response to gravity as the soil dries out or thaws. This zigzag movement is similar to that of longshore drift. Soil creep cannot be seen operation but its action can be implied by the formation of shallow terracettes, the build-up of soil on the upslope side of walls and the bending of tree trunks
38
What are mudflows?
A mudflow involves earth and mudflow are found in unconsolidated or weak bedrock such as clay, often after heavy rainfall gets trapped within the rock, increasing pore water pressure, which forces rock particles apart and leads to slope failure. Fore water pressure is a form of energy within the slope system and it is an extremely important factor in determining sore. Mudflows are often sudden and fast-flowing so can represent a significant natural hazard.
39
What is a landslide?
A landslide involves a block of rock moving very rapidly downhill along a planar surface (a slide plane), often a bedding plane that is roughly parallel to the ground surface. Unlike a mudflow, where the moving material becomes mixed, the moving block of material in a landslide remains largely intact. Landslides are frequently triggered by earthquakes or very heavy rainfall, when the slip surface becomes lubricated and friction is reduced. Landslides tend to be very rapid and pose a considerable threat to people and property. In 1993, 60m of cliff slid onto the beach near Scarborough in North Yorkshire, taking with it part of the Holbeck Hall Hotel.
40
What is the process of long shore drift?
1. Eroded materials from the cliffs are on the beach 2. The waves from the sea come onto the beach at an angle and move the material up the beach 3. The waves then move back down the beach in a straight direction due to gravity
41
What is traction?
The rolling of large molecules along the sea floor by the waves
42
What is saltation?
The bouncing of slightly lighter material along the sea floor
43
What is suspension?
Small particles of material carried by the water
44
What is solution (transport)
Material is dissolved and carried by the water
45
Where would a swash aligned beach form?
Generally be in a low energy environment
46
Where would a drift aligned beach form?
Generally be in a high energy environment
47
What is a compound spit?
A spit that has a hooked end as a result of a change in prevailing wind direction
48
How is a bar formed?
Forms in the same way as a spit (longshore drift) but across a body of water, separating it from the ocean
49
How is a tombolo formed?
Bar that connects to the mainland of an island
50
What are barrier islands/beaches?
A type of dune system where an area of sand has been formed by wave and tidal action parallel to the mainland coast. If a barrier beach becomes separated from the mainland, it becomes a barrier island
51
How can barrier islands form?
Waves repeatedly deposit sediment parallel to the shoreline
52
What is vegetation succession?
The evolution of plant communities at a site over time - from pioneer species to climax vegetation
53
What is the process of vegetation succession?
- At each stage of the succession the plant community alters the soil and microclimate, allowing the establishment of another group or species → one community of plants is replaced by another as the succession develops - Eventually, a climax community is reached → vegetation is in a state of equilibrium with the environment and there is no further influx of new species.
54
What are the requirements of sand dune development?
→ plentiful supply of sand → strong winds to transport sand particles through saltation. → an obstacle to trap the sand eg a plant. Can also be man made.
55
What happens during the pioneer stage?
new dunes on foreshore • seeds blown in by the wind or washed in by the sea. • rooting conditions are poor due to drought, strong wind, salty sea water immersion and alkaline conditions created by seashells. • wind moves the sand allowing rainwater to soak through rapidly
56
What happens during the building stage?
• plants trap sand and grow with it, binding the sand together within their roots • humus created by decaying pioneer plants creates more fertile growing conditions - soil becomes less alkaline as pioneer plants grow and trap rainwater. • less hardly plants can grow and start to outcompete pioneer plants. • as plants colonise the dunes, the sand disappears and the dune changes colour - from yellow to grey
57
What happens during the climax stage?
• taller plants (e.g trees) and more complex species (eg moorland heathers) can now grow • plants from earlier stages die out because of competition. • when water table reaches or near the surface, dune slacks can occur where specially adapted water-tolerant plants can grow.