Coasts: Coastal Terminology, Land Forms And Processes Flashcards
(57 cards)
What are ocean currents?
The movement of water from one location to another. They are driven by three main factors:
1. The rise and fall of tides
2. Wind
3. Thermohaline circulation
What are tides?
The periodic rise and fall in the level of the sea, caused by the gravitational pull of the sun and moon, although the moon has a much greater influence as it is closer
What is a spring tide?
As the moon orbit the Earth, the high tides follow it. Twice in a lunar month, when the moon, sun and earth are in a straight line, the tide raising force is strongest. This produces the highest tide range or spring tide.
What is a neap tide?
Twice a month, the moon and sun are positioned at 90° to each other in relation to the Earth. This alignment gives the lowest monthly tidal range, or neap tide.
What is the significance of the tides?
- The movement of tides can generate ocean currents, the influence the direction and scale of coastal sediment movement
- When high tides are combined with a low pressure system and extremely high storm surge can be generated that leads to flooding along coastal area
- The regular movement of the tides can be used to generate renewable energy. For example, Swansea Bay in Wales is an area that utilises this energy to generate power
What is a storm surge?
The pushing of water against a coastline to abnormally high levels, usually a combination of extreme low pressure and high tides
What is ocean current?
The large scale movement of water in oceans
What is tidal range?
The vertical difference in height of sea level between high and low tide
What is a rip current?
A specific type of water current that can occur near beaches where waves break. A strong, localised and narrow current of water that moves directly away from the shore by cutting through the lines of breaking waves
Where does coastal sediment come from?
- Streams/rivers flowing into the sea
- Estuaries
- Cliff erosion
- Offshore sand banks
- Material from biological origin
What is a sediment cell?
A distinct area of coastline separated from others by well-defined boundaries, such as headlands and deep stretches of water. Sediment cells can be regarded as closed systems from which nothing is gained or lost – but in reality, sediment can find its way into neighbouring cells. Sediment cells can vary in size with larger ones often being divided into smaller sections (sub-cells)
What is a coastal sediment budget?
The balance between sediment being added and removed from the coastal system, that system being defined with each individual sediment cell
What is accretion?
The process of gradually adding material to an object, increasing its size or mass
How is a positive budget formed?
More materials added to the sediment cell than is removed: the shoreline is built towards the sea
How is a negative budget formed?
More material is removed from the sediment cell than is added: the shoreline retreat landwards
What is weathering?
The disintegration and decomposition of rocks in situ.
There are three types: mechanical, chemical and biological
What is mechanical weathering?
The break-up of rocks without any chemical changes taking place e.g freeze-thaw, salt-crystallisation and wetting and drying
What is freeze-thaw weathering?
When water enters a crack, freezes, and expands by 10%, widening the crack
What is salt crystallisation?
Salt water evaporates, leaving salt crystals behind, causes stress in the rock and breakage + corrosion
What is wetting and drying?
Rocks rich in clay expand when they get wet and contract when they dry. This can cause them to crack and break up
What is chemical weathering?
Rock is broken down through chemical changes, most often acidic rain.
This can include: Carbonation, Oxidation, Solution, Hydrolysis
What is carbonation?
Rainwater absorbs carbon dioxide from the air to form a weak carbonic acid. This reacts with calcium carbonate in rocks, such as limestone and chalk, deform calcium bicarbonate which is easily dissolved. The cooler the temperature of the rainwater, the more carbon dioxide is absorbed.
What is oxidation?
The reaction of rock minerals with oxygen, for example iron, to form a rusty red powder leaving rocks more vulnerable to weathering
What is solution?
The dissolving of rock minerals such as halide (rock salts)